Issues with Marlin on my Anet A8

Hi! I am very very new to printing, just got a printer a few days before posting this. I decided to install Marlin after watching a few videos and seeing some forums that recommend it over the stock firmware that comes with the printer. I had a few initial issues, like the stepper motors being inverted, but was easily able to fix those. Unfortunately, i cannot figure out a big issue. My z end stop switch is completely ignored. It worked before marlin, and even after digging around for hours i couldn't find a solution. Wondering if i could get some help?

I'll assume that your X and Y endstops work.

The Z endstop is possibly a different type. I'm not familiar with the A8 myself, but assuming that you did not change the hardware, I thought that the A8 used a normally closed sensor for the Z axis.

there's a wiki page here: [3dprint.wiki]

It has some specific changes for your configuration in Marlin.

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MBot3D Printer
MakerBot clone Kit from Amazon
Added heated bed.

Leadscrew self-built printer (in progress)
Duet Wifi, Precision Piezo parts

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choochooboy123
Hi! I am very very new to printing, just got a printer a few days before posting this. I decided to install Marlin after watching a few videos and seeing some forums that recommend it over the stock firmware that comes with the printer. I had a few initial issues, like the stepper motors being inverted, but was easily able to fix those. Unfortunately, i cannot figure out a big issue. My z end stop switch is completely ignored. It worked before marlin, and even after digging around for hours i couldn't find a solution. Wondering if i could get some help?

If the gantry is smashing down and not stopping then your Z end stop needs reversed. Edit the configuration.h file to either invert the Z-endstop if it isn't or not if it is.
Another thing that you need to configure is how far off of the bed the X and Y end stops put your nozzle when homed. You have to enter that offset in to get your prints to go where you want them on your bed.

DLC

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Kits: Folgertech Kossel 2020 upgraded E3Dv6, Anet A8 upgraded E3Dv6, Tevo Tarantula enhanced parts and dual-head, TronXY X5SA Pro(E3DHemera).
Scratch: Large bed Cartesian, exchangeable heads, Linear slide Delta, Maker-Beam XL Micro Delta, 220x220CoreXY.

Thanks, ill take a look and update as i go along

I'll try to give as much information as a can, but again i'm pretty new to this. I've been trying some things you guys suggested and also things i found on other sites. After a little more experimenting, I found my z end stop switch, which is the stock mechanical one that comes with kit, doesn't interact at all with the printer. When using the printer to move different axis' they all stop responding when i hold the corresponding stop switch, as they should. But that isn't the case with the z axis, it continues to move even when the switch is held. Maybe its a board failure or a switch failure, but i'm open to some more suggestions. Thanks in advance.

Where is the z switch located ,top or bottom of ?
Make sure it is plugged into the corresponding monthly or max conector.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/31/2019 09:26AM by obewan.

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obewan
Where is the z switch located ,top or bottom of ?
Make sure it is plugged into the corresponding monthly or max conector.

Adding to Obewan here:
If you don't have Pronterface, get it, it will make it easier to troubleshoot your system. Simplify3D is also easy to use when troubleshooting, but you have to buy that one..
In this case, your gcode tool is "M119". When you issue this code to your printer it will respond back with the state of your end stops. This way you can test them without moving the mechanics around.

DLC

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Kits: Folgertech Kossel 2020 upgraded E3Dv6, Anet A8 upgraded E3Dv6, Tevo Tarantula enhanced parts and dual-head, TronXY X5SA Pro(E3DHemera).
Scratch: Large bed Cartesian, exchangeable heads, Linear slide Delta, Maker-Beam XL Micro Delta, 220x220CoreXY.

Thanks for the info on pronterface! i never knew what software to use to interact and send gcode before this. I tried the M119 command and it said that the x and y endstops were open, but the z endstop was "TRIGGERED." None of the endstops are being pressed so I'm confused as to what to do in this case. The stops worked perfectly on it before i installed Marlin and unfortunately the software provided to flash the original firmware doesn't work.

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choochooboy123
Thanks for the info on pronterface! i never knew what software to use to interact and send gcode before this. I tried the M119 command and it said that the x and y endstops were open, but the z endstop was "TRIGGERED." None of the endstops are being pressed so I'm confused as to what to do in this case. The stops worked perfectly on it before i installed Marlin and unfortunately the software provided to flash the original firmware doesn't work.

The next test to do...
Press the Z end stop switch and run M119. if it doesn't say "triggered" then your firmware has the z-end stop sense reversed. In the configuration.h file, flip the sense of the Z min end stop. If it says "triggered" whether or not the button is pressed then you have a broken switch or an open wire from the switch to the connector, or you have the z min end stop plugged into the wrong connector on the controller board.

DLC

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Kits: Folgertech Kossel 2020 upgraded E3Dv6, Anet A8 upgraded E3Dv6, Tevo Tarantula enhanced parts and dual-head, TronXY X5SA Pro(E3DHemera).
Scratch: Large bed Cartesian, exchangeable heads, Linear slide Delta, Maker-Beam XL Micro Delta, 220x220CoreXY.

Thank you guys so much for the help! After inverting the z-axis end stop logic in the configuration.h file as suggested it finally started to work properly. As of posting this i am doing some test prints to see its capabilities. Once again, thanks for all your help.

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choochooboy123
Thank you guys so much for the help! After inverting the z-axis end stop logic in the configuration.h file as suggested it finally started to work properly. As of posting this i am doing some test prints to see its capabilities. Once again, thanks for all your help.

Good job, well done. 3D printer kits are at the same time, fun and frustrating. But, then you can make stuff no one else can.
Your next task is to learn a CAD package so you can do more than just print stuff others make.
Your first one to learn is "TinkerCAD", easy for the total noob (like me) to mechanical engineering.
Then move up to higher horsepower CAD packages like:
Fusion 360 (free to hobbyist and startup company)
Design Spark (free to hobbyist)

Fixer upper tools:
Meshmixer is the tool to use to fix up stl files that just won't print right.
Microsoft has a suite of tools too for 3D printing, but they are all in the "Cloud" and sometimes don't upload well.

Finally,
I have tried and tried to learn to use Blender, but, "You have to be an expert before you can be a beginner."
This does some cool stuff, but darn, it is hard to use. I can't even figure out how to change its awful color scheme.

have fun,
DLC

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Kits: Folgertech Kossel 2020 upgraded E3Dv6, Anet A8 upgraded E3Dv6, Tevo Tarantula enhanced parts and dual-head, TronXY X5SA Pro(E3DHemera).
Scratch: Large bed Cartesian, exchangeable heads, Linear slide Delta, Maker-Beam XL Micro Delta, 220x220CoreXY.