Sunhokey i3 issues

Hi guys,

I have just built this printer (acrylic version) and am happy overall with how it came together.

I'm struggling a bit with the bed calibration as I was unable to get enough movement at each corner to get the nozzle spacing right.
Just realised though that I have an adjuster on the vertical axis meaning I can play with the bed spring tension in conjunction with the end stop positioning, so as to get the required adjustment.........I'm learning slowly.

Everything works motor and bed wise but I am unable to get a test print happening.
I am using the Repetier and Cura settings as per the info that came with the printer.
Filament starts to flow but it will not stick to the bed and just ends up blobbing around the nozzle.

Any help appreciated in terms of what I can try next. I am using ABS filament and the stock aluminium bed and yellow tape that came with the printer.

Thanks in advance.

Cheers,

Steve

if it is your first printer you should start with PLA first. the shipped lousy yellow tape is a plaque. buy blue tape, mix yourself an ABS juice for printing ABS. also keep in mind bed temperature must 110

Thanks Madias,

I only have ABS filament at the moment.
Noticed that the stock bed is not entirely flat so have a Mk2B heated bed, glass plate and Kapton tape on their way to me. I belive this is a good setup for ABS printing.

Cheers,

Steve

Hi again guys,

I am really struggling knowing how to do the extruder calibration process, despite extensive Googling on this subject. I just can't seem to follow what needs to be done.

Can anyone tell me how to actually cause 100mm of filament to be extruded? What commands or software process do I follow?

Also, when I do end up working out the settings, do I enter these via the LCD panel or the software? Is it correct that I have to re-enter them everytime I turn the printer on or is there a save function somewhere.

Cheers,

Steve

The easiest way I found was to remove my nozzle then used a vernier to raise the bottom of the block 100 mm exactly above the bed and cutting filament flush with block bottom then use the manual extruder control in the software to extrude filament until it reaches the bed and write that number down it may be 90 or 110. So our measured distance is 100 mm lets say our display shows we only fed 90 mm of filament to get that 100 mm of filament out down to bed. Now we need our firmware setting for our extruder steps/mm which in my case I found in Repetier Config tab under firmware EPROM settings lets say it was 85 steps/mm write that down. Now we calculate a new steps/mm. NEW STEPS/ mm = OLD STEPS/ mm * DISPLAY mm / MEASURED mm. in our example we have New = 85 * 90 /100 resulting in 76.5 steps/mm to input to the firmware screen and save to eprom then we check it again..In my case old steps was 90 s/mm my measured was 129 mm and the display showed 139 mm so my new was 90*139/129 = 96.97 which I entered into Eprom. Before you do this make sure the Extruder Multiplier is set at 1 under filament settings. You can mess with multiplier to change amount of filament but thats a different math.Once you save this setting by saving to EPROM it remains there till you either change it again or your board is replaced. You can do this procedure to calibrate any axis that is off. Do this from Repetier or eq on the computer. Extruder multiplier is found in my case in Slic3r filament settings.This worked for me try tweaking the steps/mm till you get 100 or whatever distance you raised the block..Put the nozzle back in make sure the heater cartridge is tight in the block (set/grub screw and the thermistor still in place under the gold tape I no longer wrap mine its siliconed (red RTV) to give me a better heat reading. Re level the bed load a file and start printing