DIY Tech Shop: "i3xl - prusa i3" reviews

I am new to 3D printing and I am planning to buy the “i3xl - prusa i3” as my first 3D printer from DIY Tech Shop but I do not see many reviews for this printer or the seller. Can someone tell me their experience with “i3xl - prusa i3” build quality of the printer, quality of the print and customer service of DIY tech Shop?

I am new as well, and I just bought the i3xl model that you are looking at.

I have a bit of a story behind my experience.. but in summary.

1. Got my kit, the 3d printed parts had some quality issues. I e-mail/called them and was sent a new parts kits with great quality.
2. A few minor hardware items were missing from the kit. No big deal, I went to home depot and got what I needed.
3. The assembly PDF file you download from them guides you reasonably well, but there are a few things you "discover along the way" that are a little different from the PDF.

First thing to realize, is that this is a KIT and you will need to do research (web and youtube) to get all the facts.

Other than parts and hardware errors, most of things I ran into were resolved by beer, e-mails, beer, web searching (this place!) + beer, and you tube.

My printer is working great now.. Learned a ton, and the biggest value beyond the price, is that I can modify things and make improvements to the base kit..

Considering what I know now, I would still buy it. (only if you are wanting a very DIY kit type of project)

I just ordered the I3X from DIY Tech but have not received it yet. I can hardly wait to begin!!!
b

I've been messaged some questions about the printer, I'll post some my comments, hopefully it helps anyone considering this kit.

1. "Was Marlin already configured with proper defaults for this printer, or did you end up modifying any files."

No, and yes, I modified/upgraded to the newest marlin release. You have to go in and review/setup the printer firmware setup in configuration.h. This is good, since to really have any reasonable success in a DIY kit, you must have an understanding of the firmware parameters and settings. Going through one parameter at the time, it will save you time in the long run.

2. "Did the Ramps/Steppers have heatsinks on them?"

The kit came with heat sinks and some heat sink tape, you need to stick em on the drivers.

3. Did you get the LCD as well, does that work well? Can you share a pic of your printer?

I did get the LCD, but I have not used it yet. You will want to use your laptop to setup/calibrate the printer. Calibration (software and mechanical) must be understood and completed, to get good results. Calibration is easier to do with the PC, then later once its stable, then I'll mess with the LCD.

4. How was your first print?

First print was hell, because of failing at doing item #1 and didn't calibrate carefully enough, I assumed the configuration.h was setup for my printer, but it's not.. The accelerations were way too high, etc etc.. Thus not fully understanding the parameters in the configuration.h. So I went back, read up on each parameter, the file is commented fairly well also. Then calibrated carefully each axis, checking for machine squareness etc. Calibrating a printer up is similar to being a CNC machine operator lol!

5. How many attempts did it take to get the printer aligned/calibrated and printing properly?

I'd guess about 2 to 5 prints, things were coming out very good. Again predicated on how well you understand configuration.h and the calibration process.


6. Can you provide any pics of items you have printed with it?

I'll post some later when I get home.


Some things I had to deal with:

1. Didn't like the print bed riding on the tiny springs that came with the kit. The springs seems to be weak, when doing rapid movements, the bed seemed to vibrate.
So I just ditched the springs, and used an extra nut to to lock the bed in place as I leveled it. Now it seems solid, even at speed.

2. I used the crimp connectors (came with the kit) to join the motor wires to the harnesses. Mainly because I was lazy and excited to get it up and running (new toy syndrome). Bad, thought, I had a bad stepper, then when double checking connections with my meter found a bad crimp.. Motor wires are pretty small relative to the size of the crimp connector. Went back soldered/heat shrink and all is well.

3. Added a bit of lube to the Z axis screw drives, and put some light oil on the linear rails.

4. Had an issue with the extruder leaking PLA after a few mins of printing. So I took apart the hotend, cleaned out the (warmed/hot) PLA and did the following.

Seemed that the PLA was escaping around the bottom of the PTFE liner. The hot end does not have a screw lock to hold the liner. As you screw the PEEK body to the brass end
then it compresses the liner into the brass end I guess in theory making a seal.. Mine didn't seal.. So I took out the liner, and wrapped the part that goes into the body of the brass fitting, with Teflon tape, creating a seal between the PTFE liner and the brass body. Then I used teflon tape on the threads of the brass fitting. This seems to help alot.

Here is my configuration.h file as requested. Contains some of my machine specific steps per unit adjustments as measured by my dial gauge etc. Used with the most recent marlin download from github

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/09/2014 10:53PM by rmz.

rmz...I just sent you a private message asking for text file of your config file.

Wasn't able to open the one you supplied.

"I'm having problem with my z axis. When screws attached no movement. Take off thescrews and the motors work fine."

Couple of things when troubleshooting the Z axis that I ran into.

1. Double check wiring of both motors. Use a multimeter, and check for continuity for each of the 4 motors wires (x2 since you have 2 z motors with the i3xl)
2. Check stepper resistance (just google testing stepper motors, and you'll find lots of info on this)
3. Adjust current on the Z driver
4. Make sure settings in the configuration.h is setup properly. My Z-axis acceleration and max speeds where set way too high. See my configuration file.
5. Check for mechanical binding. Ensure the X-axis can slide up and down smoothly, also make sure the X-axis is level when you thread the z drive screws. I used a magnetic digital level on the left then the right and made sure it read 0 on both sides.
6. Lube the drive screws with a light oil. Put a drop in the z drive nuts also.
7. Zip tie both sides of the clear vinyl hose that connects the stepper shaft and the drive screw, otherwise if one side spins, then a mechanical bind will occur.
8. One last thing, make sure the drive screws are not binding up on the plastic part of the x-axis end pieces. After pushing in the m5 drive nut in, I still had to open up the plastic areas capturing the nut (above/below). Be careful not to make the nut loose, otherwise you're introducing some extra play/backlash in the axis..

DIY tech shop kit comes with these stepper motors (attached Datasheet). This will help you in figuring out which wires to use for connection and in calculating steps per revolution and per mm. I think Marlin config.h has to be adjusted for GT2 pully 20teeth and GT2 belt (other than the accelerations/feed rate for Z axis as mentioned above).

Quote
rmz
Here is my configuration.h file as requested. Contains some of my machine specific steps per unit adjustments as measured by my dial gauge etc. Used with the most recent marlin download from github

Hi rmz,

try to getting startet with my Prusa i3xl from DIY and was quite happy to find a propper cinfiguration.h file here. Looking into your settings there I fond, that the size of the printer bed can´t be right, since the y-axis should have nearly 300mm to travel? Maybe I do not fully understood the configuration file, but the bed size seems to be obviosly wrong...

Maybe you have adopted your configuration file in the meantime so would it be possible to post it again?

Do you use a heated bed now? I managed to get one for mine, but I´m not sure about the changes in the settings?

Thanks for your support!

Hi ciutateivissa,

You are correct, the size of the bed in the Y direction was too small due to me having the end stop on the wrong side of the machine, thus limiting my bed travel. I thought I had to print some custom end-stop holder, but I just need to swap it to the other end. (Doh!)..

I can post my new configuration.h tonight.

Heated bed:

On some advise from DIYTech, I purchased some 19ga nichrome wire, and a wide roll of kapton tape.

1. I taped the aluminum bed underside.
2. Ran about 6 ft of nichrome as a single loop, (looping up and down the bed)..
3. Taped that down with more kapton...
4. Taped the temp sensor in middle of the bed. (directly on the aluminum)
5. Connected it to ramps.

It warms up to 40-50C pretty quick, and holds there without issue. I print mainly PLA so 40's seems to work me .. (Aluminum headed bed -> Glass -> blue painters tape)..

Here some pictures from my Prusa i3XL printer from DIYTECHSHOP.

I´ve had some issues during the build and configuration but it finally works. I will replace the hotend soon since I´ve recurring issues with it, but the rest is quite OK now. I´ve added a heated bed as well although it was not easy to get one in the size of 9 x 12 inch.

Awesome y axis limit switch I've been trying to find a good spot to put mine, I might have to copy you.

Is that a nichrome heater bed on it as well? Any pictures of how you laid out the wire?

Looks good!

P.s. Can I have your extruder? J/K.

cfy7,

the heat bed is one from Makerfarm.com, I was happy to find that source. You´ll need to add a relay and a second powwer supply since the overall current is to high. The heatbed uses 17A at 12 V.

Regarding the extruder: I think is cheaper to get a new one or somebody can print you one. The quality of the print is not really good in mine as well, that´s the reason why I´ve ordered a new one. I think the shipping would cost more than the extruder itself...



I´ve added a picture from my x enstop here because I was asked how it looks like.

This is kinda funny actually. I had my X and Y crossed what is funnier is that have had sevral successful prints like that.. Although i did wonder a couple times why thing always seemed to be laid out the wrong directions ..

ciutateivissa - I have my X ( thought it was Y ) end stop mounted the same way. The one that is giving me the headach is the actual Y end stop the directions have it mounted in a such a place that it cuts about 2 inches off the build platform,

I was going to just print a custom adjustable end stop.But more likely an easy fix wouldbe to remove that end stop and put in a smaller one. Although before the days of the auto leveling bed i had printed a custom end stop from DIY that worked great for Z thought i might try to figure a way to use that for Y

ciutateivissa

I was wondering about how you mounted the threaded rods on your Z axis motors. I see you have nice couplings, did these come with your kit?

My problem is that I had orderred a Prusa i3 XL and got the ordinary prusa 8x8 instead. They are sending me longer rods and the larger bed. The couplings I have now are just plastic tubing so should I ask them to send me the couplings you have?

The black abs looks nice compared to the blue stuff I got.

thanks

thatsme,

the couplings in the Prusa i3 XL kit were plastic tubing as well. The aluminium ones I use now are usually used in CNC milling machines. I have such a machine and get these couplings from my supplier, but it should be an easy task to find them on Ebay.

Quote
ciutateivissa
cfy7,

the heat bed is one from Makerfarm.com, I was happy to find that source. You´ll need to add a relay and a second powwer supply since the overall current is to high. The heatbed uses 17A at 12 V.

Regarding the extruder: I think is cheaper to get a new one or somebody can print you one. The quality of the print is not really good in mine as well, that´s the reason why I´ve ordered a new one. I think the shipping would cost more than the extruder itself...



I´ve added a picture from my x enstop here because I was asked how it looks like.

Dear Ciutateivissa,
is it possible to know what kind of plate did you apply on the Makerfarm's heat bed? Is it tape with something?
However, the heated bed measures 8,4"x12,6": considering the printing area of i3xl from DIY tech shop is 9"x12", does it fit freely?
Congratulation on your printer by the way, it looks awesome!

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/17/2014 11:41AM by XiaZhou.

Quote
XiaZhou
Dear Ciutateivissa,
is it possible to know what kind of plate did you apply on the Makerfarm's heat bed? Is it tape with something?
However, the heated bed measures 8,4"x12,6": considering the printing area of i3xl from DIY tech shop is 9"x12", does it fit freely?
Congratulation on your printer by the way, it looks awesome!

XiaZhou,

for the first print I used an 3mm aluminium plate with Kapton tape on it. The problem with this solution was that the aluminium took quite a while to get temperarure. In addition it was not perfectly flat and with more temperature it got even worse.
Since saturday I use a simple mirror and that works perfectly. I´ve printed the holder for the mirror myself, before I changed the bed.

The size of the Makerfarm heat bed isn´t an issue at all, there is more than enough space left on both sides.

I´ve attached a photo of the printer again so you can see the changes.

Ciutateivissa,
great job again!
Do the plastic holders actually have problem with the heat?
I suppose mirror's thickness is still 3mm, isn't it?
Did you experienced any cohesion problems?


Thanks

This is kinda sad but really what im intresting in hearing more about is your cable management.

I took mine apart this weekend to cut down a few wires try to turn that spagetti mess into something more manageable and eliminate cross talk at the same time with some shielded wire wraps.

Problem I been running into is the heated bed wires vs the auto leveling servo arm and end stop. X end stop vs the servo wires. Part of that is caused by the DYI techshops huge heated block.

But love to see how you did yours and kept it looking clean!

I love your perfectly neat and organized machine. Also great spool holder. Currently I'm using a broom handle suspended between a shelf and a treadmill. Works pretty nice!

Forgive me if this is an ignorant question but assuming you could find a powerful enough PSU, would it be possible to power the printer and heated bed from the same unit? Or would you expect to fry the motherboard trying to pass through that much current? If it is possible what amperage do think you would need?

Per brucehvn, I am going with a power supply off of Amazon ( Corsair Builder Series CX 430 Watt ATX/EPS 80 PLUS certified Power Suppy), that should power the bed and the motherboard. I almost forgot that you have to use a relay with the heater bed to control it.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/04/2014 03:42PM by usarmyaircav.

In the meantime I did some more upgrades on my printer and a bit of tuning.

• I´ve replaced the support of the frame with some parts which are a lot more stable
• There is now a combined holder for y and z endstop
• Cleaned up the electronics again and build a cabinet for all that stuff
• Replaced the hotend again for a better one from stoffel15
• Added auto bed leveling

Here are some pictures from today...

Quote
ciutateivissa
In the meantime I did some more upgrades on my printer and a bit of tuning.

• I´ve replaced the support of the frame with some parts which are a lot more stable
• There is now a combined holder for y and z endstop
• Cleaned up the electronics again and build a cabinet for all that stuff
• Replaced the hotend again for a better one from stoffel15
• Added auto bed leveling

Here are some pictures from today...

Hi Ciutateivissa,
Did you get it from here: [reprap-fab.org], if so which one did you go with?

Todd

Todd,

you´re right, I´ve bouight it at reprap-fab, it is the "Wade Extruder 3mm 9/47 (komplett)". The only issue is that most of the articles on the website are sold out within á few minutes, so you have to watch the site carefully to see what´s on stock.

Ralf

My advice, buy somewhere else. DIY Techshop is far from professional when it comes to emails and calls. I know I orderred the Prusa i3 Xl and received the small Prusa i3. they sent parts to make it an XL but they are not as shown on the pictures. If I had to do it again. I'd go Makerfarm.

Well, I ordered an i3xl from them on May 6. It shipped out on the 9th, and I received it on the 15th (from Washington state to PA; cross-country). Initial look is that nothing is missing, damaged, broken, or incorrect. I've posted my "unboxing" photos to flickr:

[flic.kr]


I'll check them in more detail perhaps this weekend; but I've got 4 different events scheduled so I'm not sure what I'll have for free time.

Wow!! Those support brackets look outstanding. Are the printed parts available on thingiverse?? If not where did you get them and what size is the aluminum?? Thanks.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/14/2014 07:27PM by kayej.

Quote
kayej
Wow!! Those support brackets look outstanding. Are the printed parts available on thingiverse?? If not where did you get them and what size is the aluminum?? Thanks.

My printed parts *should* be available; the ones I received are fairly poor quality. The AL pieces were part of the kit I ordered; I don't have files/drawings for them.

Sorry for the late reply. I've only just now gotten back into setting up my printer after a LONG hiatus. Hopefully I'll have it running by the weekend!