My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
Posted by Trike
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Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build January 14, 2015 12:38PM |
Quote
Bratan
You lucky. It's such a pain to adjust bed level, and I have to do it almost every time I print. I made better z-endstop bracket that uses long screw that I can move up or down and it presses on the switch, but nuts on it keep unscrewing from vibration. I'm going to try proximity sensor next...Quote
Blue Ice
Yeah, I only adjusted mine twice over the past six months, so it hasn't really bothered me much. But when I do need to adjust it, it's quite a chore. One thing that I would like to see are captive nuts in the parts- that way you don't have to do all of the painful "hold the nut on one end and screw on the other" work. Instead, you would just screw in the screw. Maybe someday....
You have to adjust the z-endstop mount almost every time you print? Maybe you could try locking nuts on the ends of the endstop screws?
It's really only the jackscrews on the bed that I ever use, and it's pretty infrequently. Usually I just change them on the fly when the printer is doing rings around the part, and that's probably every four prints. After I figured out that all of my slop was coming from loose nuts where the frame is attached to the Y-axis assembly, I just tightened the crap out of them and left them alone. Now all of the issues have disappeared
Blue Ice
blog at [contemporarymaker.com]
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Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build January 27, 2015 11:08AM |
Hi guys,
So after having some great success with Repetier host firmware, I'm now trying to get my printer working with Marlin. And it's an Epic Fail
I've read some posts here and tried to follow recommendation about axis and endstop settings, but it's not working. In fact not a single endstop works. I did get movement directions working correctly. Can someone post their Configuration.h file so I can analyze it and adjust? I have Y motor with endstop in the back.
Here's what's happening basically.
1. Z axes:
I can move Z axis up, or down manually. When I try homing Z axes, steppers buzz like crazy and don't move at all. I think it's a feedrate setting or something else. I can never reach endstop manually, because it doesn't doesn't want to go done past some point.
2. X axes:
I can move it manually. When it hits endstop, it doesn't stop moving right, but won't move left anymore, which makes me believe it thinks endstop is at the left postion. Tried changing #define X_HOME_DIR to 1 or -1, makes no difference.
3. Y axes:
Just like X, I can move it manually, but when it hits endstop (at the end, which is at the back of the printer) it continues going, but won't move forward anymore.
Sane person would assume that changing ENDSTOP Settings in the config file would actually yeild some results but it doesn't make any difference... I'm assuming there are other settings somwhere...
Also initially I tried Replikeo's recommended settings, and it didn't work at all (directions were reversed).
Here're my settings (i'm also attaching configuration.h file)
EDIT: I got Y axes to work by changing logic that when it goes toward you it should be -Y and away from you is +Y. Now Y axes is homing correctly. But X and Z still not working...
Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 01/27/2015 12:11PM by Bratan.
So after having some great success with Repetier host firmware, I'm now trying to get my printer working with Marlin. And it's an Epic Fail
I've read some posts here and tried to follow recommendation about axis and endstop settings, but it's not working. In fact not a single endstop works. I did get movement directions working correctly. Can someone post their Configuration.h file so I can analyze it and adjust? I have Y motor with endstop in the back.
Here's what's happening basically.
1. Z axes:
I can move Z axis up, or down manually. When I try homing Z axes, steppers buzz like crazy and don't move at all. I think it's a feedrate setting or something else. I can never reach endstop manually, because it doesn't doesn't want to go done past some point.
2. X axes:
I can move it manually. When it hits endstop, it doesn't stop moving right, but won't move left anymore, which makes me believe it thinks endstop is at the left postion. Tried changing #define X_HOME_DIR to 1 or -1, makes no difference.
3. Y axes:
Just like X, I can move it manually, but when it hits endstop (at the end, which is at the back of the printer) it continues going, but won't move forward anymore.
Sane person would assume that changing ENDSTOP Settings in the config file would actually yeild some results but it doesn't make any difference... I'm assuming there are other settings somwhere...
Also initially I tried Replikeo's recommended settings, and it didn't work at all (directions were reversed).
Here're my settings (i'm also attaching configuration.h file)
#define INVERT_X_DIR false // for Mendel set to false, for Orca set to true
#define INVERT_Y_DIR false // for Mendel set to true, for Orca set to false
#define INVERT_Z_DIR false // for Mendel set to false, for Orca set to true
#define INVERT_E0_DIR false // for direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to false
// ENDSTOP SETTINGS:
// Sets direction of endstops when homing; 1=MAX, -1=MIN
#define X_HOME_DIR 1
#define Y_HOME_DIR -1
#define Z_HOME_DIR -1
//// MOVEMENT SETTINGS
#define NUM_AXIS 4 // The axis order in all axis related arrays is X, Y, Z, E
#define HOMING_FEEDRATE {50*60, 50*60, 4*60, 0} // set the homing speeds (mm/min)
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80,80,4000,600} // default steps per unit for Ultimaker
#define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {500, 500, 5, 25} // (mm/sec)
#define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION {2000,2000,20,1000} // X, Y, Z, E maximum start speed for accelerated moves. E default values are good for Skeinforge 40+, for older versions raise them a lot.
#define DEFAULT_ACCELERATION 3000 // X, Y, Z and E max acceleration in mm/s^2 for printing moves
#define DEFAULT_RETRACT_ACCELERATION 3000 // X, Y, Z and E max acceleration in mm/s^2 for retracts
EDIT: I got Y axes to work by changing logic that when it goes toward you it should be -Y and away from you is +Y. Now Y axes is homing correctly. But X and Z still not working...
Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 01/27/2015 12:11PM by Bratan.
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Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build January 29, 2015 04:39PM |
Wow, that's genius! I forgot there are different physical connections, I bet it's connected to wrong header! Thank you so much, I'll check tonight!Quote
gforce1
Z-axis: set max feedrate on 2 (standard 5).
X-axis:Your endstop is on the right side, so this is the max.endstop. is it connected on the max position of your (ramps)board?
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Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build January 31, 2015 07:15PM |
Quote
Ano
Yeah, capacitive sensor for auto-leveling was one of my top-things-to-do, too. I just finished my first print and I'm really impressed. Went much better than I thought. Well, after some troubleshooting (filament not getting into the hotend, because the metal thingy at the top of the hotend-plastic was turned in too much and was blocking the filament).
See attached!
That looks really great for a first print! Here was mine
Blue Ice
blog at [contemporarymaker.com]
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Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build January 31, 2015 07:21PM |
Btw. I used some of your buildlog infos and fotos from your blog to build up my printer, as some infos on the wiki where inaccurate, so thanks for that 
Wanted to post a comment there, but I don't want to use google+
My second print, a 20x20x20mm cube (0,4 infill)
Three little questions: My printbed stays at high temperature, even after the print job is finished. It stayed hot for several minutes before I switched it off
manually. Is there some config where I could change this time to a minute or two?
While my dimensions are pretty good for a second try (about 19,8x19,8x19,6), the first 4 layers are being print in 21x21mm. Is this wanted? I mean,
is there a config that makes the first layers larger to better stick on the plate? If you look at my last post, the onewall-test had also the first layer being larger than the rest.
And the second thing: As you may see on the second image, the top layers are not filled 100%, which leads to some little holes. I would think this is due to a extruder rate
not being high enough, is this right? (Hotend temp is at 245°C and I think it is high enoug)
Btw: I seem to be unable to heat my bed to more than 110°C, and reaching the 110 is taking really long. This first pring was with 100°C for first layers, 95°C for the rest.
Could this become a problem? My next steps regarding this would be to change the mosfet for a better one (Texas Instruments is sending me some nice samples^^) and changing the cables,
because they were getting a bit warm (but not really hot, which leads me to think, that this will not change really much)
/edit: First bigger part (170mm length) went horribly wrong. After about 1 hour printing the abs retracted, bent and lost it's grip to the heatbed. 95°C seem to be too cold. Will try 105°C tomorrow.
Edited 6 time(s). Last edit at 02/01/2015 06:45PM by Ano.
Prusa i3 Rework (from Replikeo.com) & original Prusa i3 MK2 (from shop.prusa3d.com) << the MK2 definitely is worth the higher cost!
Print Troubleshooting Guide // Visual troubleshooting guide
Wanted to post a comment there, but I don't want to use google+
My second print, a 20x20x20mm cube (0,4 infill)
Three little questions: My printbed stays at high temperature, even after the print job is finished. It stayed hot for several minutes before I switched it off
manually. Is there some config where I could change this time to a minute or two?
While my dimensions are pretty good for a second try (about 19,8x19,8x19,6), the first 4 layers are being print in 21x21mm. Is this wanted? I mean,
is there a config that makes the first layers larger to better stick on the plate? If you look at my last post, the onewall-test had also the first layer being larger than the rest.
And the second thing: As you may see on the second image, the top layers are not filled 100%, which leads to some little holes. I would think this is due to a extruder rate
not being high enough, is this right? (Hotend temp is at 245°C and I think it is high enoug)
Btw: I seem to be unable to heat my bed to more than 110°C, and reaching the 110 is taking really long. This first pring was with 100°C for first layers, 95°C for the rest.
Could this become a problem? My next steps regarding this would be to change the mosfet for a better one (Texas Instruments is sending me some nice samples^^) and changing the cables,
because they were getting a bit warm (but not really hot, which leads me to think, that this will not change really much)
/edit: First bigger part (170mm length) went horribly wrong. After about 1 hour printing the abs retracted, bent and lost it's grip to the heatbed. 95°C seem to be too cold. Will try 105°C tomorrow.
Edited 6 time(s). Last edit at 02/01/2015 06:45PM by Ano.
Prusa i3 Rework (from Replikeo.com) & original Prusa i3 MK2 (from shop.prusa3d.com) << the MK2 definitely is worth the higher cost!
Print Troubleshooting Guide // Visual troubleshooting guide
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Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build February 02, 2015 03:11AM |
How to Set Up a PCB Heatbed by Alex Franke.
"In this video, Jacob shows an easy way to set up a PCB heatbed for your 3D printer -- a method that allows the entire surface of the heatbed to be used for printing. He also shows how to cut inexpensive certificate frame glass to size with some simple tools. We've had printers with a heatbed setup just like this running without incident for over a year."
Try this first, it's works fopr me. Also, try place cork sheet or insulation on the heat bed when it warm up like a racing car do
"In this video, Jacob shows an easy way to set up a PCB heatbed for your 3D printer -- a method that allows the entire surface of the heatbed to be used for printing. He also shows how to cut inexpensive certificate frame glass to size with some simple tools. We've had printers with a heatbed setup just like this running without incident for over a year."
Try this first, it's works fopr me. Also, try place cork sheet or insulation on the heat bed when it warm up like a racing car do
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Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build February 02, 2015 04:41PM |
Quote
Ano
Btw. I used some of your buildlog infos and fotos from your blog to build up my printer, as some infos on the wiki where inaccurate, so thanks for that
Wanted to post a comment there, but I don't want to use google+
That's great! Glad I could help you out. Hopefully I will be moving away from Google's Blogger sometime over the next couple months.
Quote
Ano
My second print, a 20x20x20mm cube (0,4 infill)
Three little questions: My printbed stays at high temperature, even after the print job is finished. It stayed hot for several minutes before I switched it off
manually. Is there some config where I could change this time to a minute or two?
While my dimensions are pretty good for a second try (about 19,8x19,8x19,6), the first 4 layers are being print in 21x21mm. Is this wanted? I mean,
is there a config that makes the first layers larger to better stick on the plate? If you look at my last post, the onewall-test had also the first layer being larger than the rest.
And the second thing: As you may see on the second image, the top layers are not filled 100%, which leads to some little holes. I would think this is due to a extruder rate
not being high enough, is this right? (Hotend temp is at 245°C and I think it is high enoug)
Btw: I seem to be unable to heat my bed to more than 110°C, and reaching the 110 is taking really long. This first pring was with 100°C for first layers, 95°C for the rest.
Could this become a problem? My next steps regarding this would be to change the mosfet for a better one (Texas Instruments is sending me some nice samples^^) and changing the cables,
because they were getting a bit warm (but not really hot, which leads me to think, that this will not change really much)
/edit: First bigger part (170mm length) went horribly wrong. After about 1 hour printing the abs retracted, bent and lost it's grip to the heatbed. 95°C seem to be too cold. Will try 105°C tomorrow.
I think I can help you out with these issues. Are you using Slic3r and Marlin?
Blue Ice
blog at [contemporarymaker.com]
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Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build February 02, 2015 04:43PM |
That would be great =)Quote
Blue Ice
[...] I think I can help you out with these issues. Are you using Slic3r and Marlin?
Yap newest marlin version and slic3er aswell.
Oh, and I didn't say: My layers were 0,2mm, my hotend 245°C and my heatbed 100°C first layers, then 95°C
And I just tried a print with heatbed temp 105°C for the whole print, still warping.
/edit: Hm. There are some that say a warmer heatbed is better and then there are others that say 90°C is enough: http://voltivo.com/blog/control-pla-and-abs-warping
Any other opinions? ^^
/edit2: Made another print, this time 250°C hotend, 105°C heatbed and 0,3mm layerheight. Warping started after about half the print, but was still able to finish it. It also seems like I have to push my extruder rate a bit higher, as
the strings (on the same layer) aren't connecting so well, which leads to a bad cracking behavior. See here on the left side:
Oh, and could you upload your configuration.h? Just to be able to compare some values =)
/edit3: Well, extruder rate higher was in fact a good point. Extruding 100mm only gave me 79mm of filament. I changed from
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80,80,4000,473}
to#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80,80,4000,598}
Which now outputs 100mm in real.I wonder how my prints could still be this good (like not breaking completely appart) with that high discrepancy?
Edited 6 time(s). Last edit at 02/02/2015 05:57PM by Ano.
Prusa i3 Rework (from Replikeo.com) & original Prusa i3 MK2 (from shop.prusa3d.com) << the MK2 definitely is worth the higher cost!
Print Troubleshooting Guide // Visual troubleshooting guide
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Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build February 02, 2015 06:11PM |
Could you upload your Configuration.h file instead? It might be easier for me to point out which parts are different and compare.
I also get the cracks between the outer layers and inner layers of parts sometimes with ABS. It's really only on small borders and turning up the extrusion rate usually helps.
I read about this on RichRap's blog and it seems it might help, but I've never tried it. Maybe try that?
About the heated bed- do you have anything on the glass? I use a mixture of 1 parts ABS to 4 parts acetone by weight, and then I let the ABS dissolve in the acetone. After that, I paint it on the bed with a paper towel when the bed is hot, and the parts stick much better.
Here are some images of the mixture:
Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 02/02/2015 06:16PM by Blue Ice.
Blue Ice
blog at [contemporarymaker.com]
I also get the cracks between the outer layers and inner layers of parts sometimes with ABS. It's really only on small borders and turning up the extrusion rate usually helps.
I read about this on RichRap's blog and it seems it might help, but I've never tried it. Maybe try that?
About the heated bed- do you have anything on the glass? I use a mixture of 1 parts ABS to 4 parts acetone by weight, and then I let the ABS dissolve in the acetone. After that, I paint it on the bed with a paper towel when the bed is hot, and the parts stick much better.
Here are some images of the mixture:
Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 02/02/2015 06:16PM by Blue Ice.
Blue Ice
blog at [contemporarymaker.com]
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Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build February 02, 2015 06:23PM |
Oh, yeah, I don't know why I didn't think about uploading it myself XD
See attached my configuration.h
As I said, in the meantime I changed my extrusion rate, so this should definitely help.
I am currently printing on the fiberglass plate from replikeo. It works quite well, at least for little prints. It is not flat, but for larger
prints, the first layers (multiple!) are printing pretty good and holding on the plate, till warping begins.
Here is a photo of my setup (everything original-replikeo-kit so far)
I would really like to avoid working with chemicals (I know it's a dumb thing to say, when clearly this seems to be one of the better solutions,
but still^^)
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/02/2015 06:25PM by Ano.
Prusa i3 Rework (from Replikeo.com) & original Prusa i3 MK2 (from shop.prusa3d.com) << the MK2 definitely is worth the higher cost!
Print Troubleshooting Guide // Visual troubleshooting guide
See attached my configuration.h
As I said, in the meantime I changed my extrusion rate, so this should definitely help.
I am currently printing on the fiberglass plate from replikeo. It works quite well, at least for little prints. It is not flat, but for larger
prints, the first layers (multiple!) are printing pretty good and holding on the plate, till warping begins.
Here is a photo of my setup (everything original-replikeo-kit so far)
I would really like to avoid working with chemicals (I know it's a dumb thing to say, when clearly this seems to be one of the better solutions,
but still^^)
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/02/2015 06:25PM by Ano.
Prusa i3 Rework (from Replikeo.com) & original Prusa i3 MK2 (from shop.prusa3d.com) << the MK2 definitely is worth the higher cost!
Print Troubleshooting Guide // Visual troubleshooting guide
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Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build February 02, 2015 10:39PM |
Why use those chemicals when you can just easily apply Elmer's blue glue stick? I swear by that stuff, ABS sticks to like crazy when hot and releases when cold... Plus it let's me print at just 90-95C . Never had lift off issues. That's probably the only issues I didn't have, everything else is not so good but that's another story
I just reapply more glue after each print. Eventually I just take glass off and wash it in the sink. Water and paper towels take glue right off.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/02/2015 10:41PM by Bratan.
I just reapply more glue after each print. Eventually I just take glass off and wash it in the sink. Water and paper towels take glue right off.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/02/2015 10:41PM by Bratan.
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Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build February 02, 2015 11:37PM |
Quote
Ano
Three little questions: My printbed stays at high temperature, even after the print job is finished. It stayed hot for several minutes before I switched it off
manually. Is there some config where I could change this time to a minute or two?
Yes. I added this line in Slic3r, under the tab Printer Settings, the option Custom G-code, and the box End G-code:
M140 S0; turn off temperature for bed
This immediately turns off the bed heating when a print has completed. I like it a lot- it allows me to print stuff overnight without the bed being on all night.
Quote
Ano
While my dimensions are pretty good for a second try (about 19,8x19,8x19,6), the first 4 layers are being print in 21x21mm. Is this wanted? I mean,
is there a config that makes the first layers larger to better stick on the plate? If you look at my last post, the onewall-test had also the first layer being larger than the rest.
This is because your hotend is too close to the bed on the starting layers, which causes the filament to be pushed hard into the glass plate for the first couple layers. Try adjusting your bed leveling screws so it is just a bit farther away.
So now I'm looking through your Configuration.h- I'll describe some things that appear to be different and might need to be changed.
You have:
#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 60 //Ano #define TEMP_SENSOR_1 0 #define TEMP_SENSOR_2 0 #define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 60 //Ano
I have:
#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 1 #define TEMP_SENSOR_1 0 #define TEMP_SENSOR_2 0 #define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 1
These values are important and may help with your temperature problems. Basically, they give more exact values for what voltages apply to what temperatures from your thermistors. They are quite useful and I would recommend changing them from 60 to 1.
Your DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_MM looks good.
You have:
// Preheat Constants #define PLA_PREHEAT_HOTEND_TEMP 180 #define PLA_PREHEAT_HPB_TEMP 70 #define PLA_PREHEAT_FAN_SPEED 255 // Insert Value between 0 and 255 #define ABS_PREHEAT_HOTEND_TEMP 240 #define ABS_PREHEAT_HPB_TEMP 100 #define ABS_PREHEAT_FAN_SPEED 255 // Insert Value between 0 and 255
I have:
#define PLA_PREHEAT_HOTEND_TEMP 185 #define PLA_PREHEAT_HPB_TEMP 70 #define PLA_PREHEAT_FAN_SPEED 255 // Insert Value between 0 and 255 #define ABS_PREHEAT_HOTEND_TEMP 215 #define ABS_PREHEAT_HPB_TEMP 100 #define ABS_PREHEAT_FAN_SPEED 255 // Insert Value between 0 and 255
Pretty similar, but notice that none of either of our values are over 100 Celsius for the bed. You really should never have to heat it up more than that. Changing the thermistor value as mentioned above should help to solve the problem.
Quote
Ano
And the second thing: As you may see on the second image, the top layers are not filled 100%, which leads to some little holes. I would think this is due to a extruder rate
not being high enough, is this right? (Hotend temp is at 245°C and I think it is high enoug)
Most likely that is too high for ABS. Try 215 degrees Celsius after changing your thermistor values- that should be more accurate. Also try bumping up your infill value in Slic3r to something larger and adding more layers on the top surface.
Quote
Ano
Btw: I seem to be unable to heat my bed to more than 110°C, and reaching the 110 is taking really long. This first pring was with 100°C for first layers, 95°C for the rest.
Could this become a problem? My next steps regarding this would be to change the mosfet for a better one (Texas Instruments is sending me some nice samples^^) and changing the cables,
because they were getting a bit warm (but not really hot, which leads me to think, that this will not change really much)
I usually keep mine at 100 degrees for the whole print, but that is personal preference. Again, changing the thermistor values should help a lot with this issue. In a room-temperature area, my heated bed takes less that 20 minutes but more than 10 minutes to heat up to 100 degrees.
Quote
Ano
/edit: First bigger part (170mm length) went horribly wrong. After about 1 hour printing the abs retracted, bent and lost it's grip to the heatbed. 95°C seem to be too cold. Will try 105°C tomorrow.
Your temps are messed up, as mentioned above- the culprit is likely the thermistor values- again
Good luck and let me know what happens!
Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 02/02/2015 11:41PM by Blue Ice.
Blue Ice
blog at [contemporarymaker.com]
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