My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
Posted by Trike
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Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build February 22, 2015 03:08AM |
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Ano
Tried to update my printer:
[attachment 49782 IMG_20150222_011708.jpg]
Direct drive extruder at the top frame with 45° mount angle.
Now I just need to fix the extruder:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b4G1odhli3I&feature=youtu.be
I'm not sure what's causing this motor behavior. I would understand the gear not being able to pull/push the filament, but this "jumps"
are a bit strange.
I think you mean bowden, not direct drive
Try playing with the potentiometer controlling amperage on the motor driver on the RAMPS board. I think the motor is missing steps when there is resistance to movement. Also, how hot is the motor getting?
Blue Ice
blog at [contemporarymaker.com]
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Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build February 22, 2015 03:11AM |
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mr.sneezy
Update on my Prusa i3.
The printed parts on my machine are made of PLA. Yesterday the shed where it's used was 40C ambient in a bit of Aussie hot weather. You'd think that would make for nice printing as the print would not cool so much between layers.
Well about 15 minutes into the print the Wade extruder assembly softened up and drooped by about 10mm, ruined the print of course, and the Wade extruder holder. The X-carriage is also warped.
Now getting those parts reprinted in ABS.
Martin
Wow, that stinks! I wouldn't mind some hot weather in Colorado, though... right now we have about 5 inches of snow
Did the new parts work out? Also, did you manage to remove all of the hardware from the old extruder?
Blue Ice
blog at [contemporarymaker.com]
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Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build February 22, 2015 07:57AM |
Hey Blue, yes the new parts are working fine, although not without a quick fix for an unforeseen extruder holder issue.
The new mount I used was the Buderschnozzle version of the Gregs Wade reworked version here.
[www.thingiverse.com]
The one I got a friend to print out is the one shown in the last image, in black ABS this time. Unfortunately it's not quite Budaschnozzle compatible without a 9mm spacer between the mount and the X carriage.
It uses a 30mm spacing for the X carriage screws instead of 24mm, so the new X carriage had to match. I also got back 10mm of Z height with the new X carriage BTW, the mounting holes are higher on it than the first one.
Here's a pic of the warped PLA extruder mount, it should be level across the ruler. The X carriage was also warped, but not as bad as this. The grey stuff is Devcon epoxy, which I hopefully won't need again.
Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 02/22/2015 08:05AM by mr.sneezy.
The new mount I used was the Buderschnozzle version of the Gregs Wade reworked version here.
[www.thingiverse.com]
The one I got a friend to print out is the one shown in the last image, in black ABS this time. Unfortunately it's not quite Budaschnozzle compatible without a 9mm spacer between the mount and the X carriage.
It uses a 30mm spacing for the X carriage screws instead of 24mm, so the new X carriage had to match. I also got back 10mm of Z height with the new X carriage BTW, the mounting holes are higher on it than the first one.
Here's a pic of the warped PLA extruder mount, it should be level across the ruler. The X carriage was also warped, but not as bad as this. The grey stuff is Devcon epoxy, which I hopefully won't need again.
Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 02/22/2015 08:05AM by mr.sneezy.
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Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build February 26, 2015 06:45PM |
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Michaelj
Does anyone know of a comparable kit in the United States?
Shipping alone is $100.00US unless I wait for 60-90 days
Which is $46.00US.
I just shouldered the cost of the shipping and didn't really worry about it. The kit is a good deal even with the extra $100 for shipping
Also, the box is shipped very nicely and I did not run into any issues at all.Blue Ice
blog at [contemporarymaker.com]
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Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build March 01, 2015 05:51AM |
MK3 3mm aluminium heatbed, are any of you guys using one on the Prusa, and have and opinion of the performance ?
I used a FLIR IR camera to confirm that the MK2B and glass plate bed has a 10 degree C roll off at the edges, mainly the last 30mm. This is no big deal for smaller prints, but when using the whole width in ABS it is an issue.
Using a 'brim' helps a LOT but I wonder if I might be better off with the combined aluminium heater/printbed.
Martin
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
Prusa i3 EiNSTeiN Varient - I mounted my Y motor backwards, and loved every minute of it
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
I used a FLIR IR camera to confirm that the MK2B and glass plate bed has a 10 degree C roll off at the edges, mainly the last 30mm. This is no big deal for smaller prints, but when using the whole width in ABS it is an issue.
Using a 'brim' helps a LOT but I wonder if I might be better off with the combined aluminium heater/printbed.
Martin
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
Prusa i3 EiNSTeiN Varient - I mounted my Y motor backwards, and loved every minute of it
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
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Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build March 03, 2015 06:02PM |
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Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build March 05, 2015 09:20AM |
Blue Ice,
Yes please! I never say no to information!
The hobbed bolt I'm waiting on supposedly has the center of the hobbed portion at around 28.5 mm from the bottom of the bolt head.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/05/2015 09:23AM by psneddon.
Yes please! I never say no to information!
The hobbed bolt I'm waiting on supposedly has the center of the hobbed portion at around 28.5 mm from the bottom of the bolt head.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/05/2015 09:23AM by psneddon.
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Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build March 06, 2015 04:36PM |
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psneddon
Blue Ice,
Yes please! I never say no to information!
The hobbed bolt I'm waiting on supposedly has the center of the hobbed portion at around 28.5 mm from the bottom of the bolt head.
Mine was about that much as well, so you should be OK.
Blue Ice
blog at [contemporarymaker.com]
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Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build March 06, 2015 05:01PM |
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Blue Ice
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psneddon
Blue Ice,
Yes please! I never say no to information!
The hobbed bolt I'm waiting on supposedly has the center of the hobbed portion at around 28.5 mm from the bottom of the bolt head.
Mine was about that much as well, so you should be OK.
Sounds good! Thanks again.
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Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build March 07, 2015 09:16PM |
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Ano
Hi guys,
long time no read. My 40x40mm fan broke =(. It was already damaged when I build my printer, but now it just broke appart. I ordered another one, after the new one from replikeo took too long to arrive,
the Scythe Mini Kaze. It only turns at 3500 rpm, but I think it's still enough air ventilation. And it's so much less noisy. Costed around 7 €, which was a good investment I think.
So, I'm back in business now =)
Nice! i don't mind the noise, and my fan is in good shape, so I haven't replaced mine for something else.
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Ano
I try to find a good config for my bowden setup and would be great to get some tips from you =)
I currently have the problem, that after each retract, when the extruder turns back (re-retracts?), there is a blob of abs forming under the nozzle. Someone told me to decrease the retractspeed, I had it at
100mm/s, now it's at 40mm/s but I don't think it helped much. Should I try even lower values, or are there any other things I could do?
I have 5 mm retraction right now, which seems to be not enough, as some strings still appear. Should I try the option "extra lenght on restart"? Like setting it to -1mm, so that it retracts 5mm but only re-retracts 4?
Using slic3r btw. And the "wipe while retract"-option just seems to not change anything.
Also my printer seems to retract really often. Set the minimum travel after retraction to 1mm, should I raise it a bit?
I really don't know a lot about bowden setups. Maybe you could start a new thread here and ask about it?
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Ano
Btw, my extruder works just fine now. Raised the motor current a bit and adjusted the tension of the screw to hold the filament.
When I ordered my printer at replikeo, I just added the LCD screen. It's the full pixel-matrix screen now, even if they didn't upgrade their page. And having all the parts (appart from wade extruder) as injection molded
pieces is kind of nice =)
That's good. I've had a screen for my printer for quite a while now, and it is very handy.
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Ano
Does anyone use cablechaines for the Prusa i3 rework? I would like to add some, I like the style =) Will try to add one from the electronics to the left z-axis-guide and another one from the guide to the hotend.
I haven't, but it looks like someone has!
I guess someone on Thingiverse thought it was a good idea like you did
Blue Ice
blog at [contemporarymaker.com]
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Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build March 07, 2015 09:48PM |
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Bratan
What do you guys think about using MK8 hobbed pulley instead of hobbed bolt? This completely eliminates all the gears from extruder! All you need is bearing pushing filment onto pulley. Of course this requires different design for extruder but I'm sure there are many on Thingiverse...
I don't know. My extruder is working great with the hobbed bolt and the gears, ever since I put in spacers instead of springs
Are you having issues with yours?Blue Ice
blog at [contemporarymaker.com]
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