My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build

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owaisshaf
How do i achieve cold extrusion, i tightened the screws on my extruder and still no luck

What is the problem here? Is the motor turning but no filament is pushed out? Tighten the screws, if that doesn't work, loosen it a bit again.

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owaisshaf
I also varied the potentiometer for the Y axis motor and it either whines or it skips steps with a lot of resisting noises.

Normally with not enough power, the motor just whines, then with more power it skips steps and with even more power it works fine. So try with even higher output. Be sure that the rod is aligned with the motor axis to reduce the needed force.

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owaisshaf
Also I have a new problem, which I don't know how I didn't notice till now. My Z axis motors started to act funny too, here is a video of the same : [www.youtube.com]

Your nut is loose on the left side. Try to fix this. Another problem could be the motor not having enough torque (needs more current). If the needed torque is less on one side than the other (because of not aligned rod with motor axis or bent rod), one side will turn fine, while the other one can't follow.

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owaisshaf
The left motor does not rotate uni directionally, it keeps coming back a few steps and then continuing

See point above.

@riccardo0996: What was your question in the last post? Did you try the thing tomleeds suggested? Did they work? Or what is the problem right now? More input please =)

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Prusa i3 Rework (from Replikeo.com) & original Prusa i3 MK2 (from shop.prusa3d.com) << the MK2 definitely is worth the higher cost!
Print Troubleshooting Guide // Visual troubleshooting guide

Well here comes the bad news. And this for anybody reading almost a year later.
Replikeo has gone through a minimization scheme.
They have gotten away from tensioned extruders. They print a single piece and it is either crap or warped.
The exttuder pieces need dremeling to house the motors correctly.
The beds are not spring loaded. You need to buy springs and do this.
The extruder feeds on the new units don't work consistently because of no tension. They grind the filament away leaving dead spots.

That said i have:
Dremeled the extruder brackets to hold the motors correctly.
I have replaced the motor brackets with Bowden tensioning pieces.
I have added springs to the bed and rehomed the z axises.
I have drank two quarts of vodka during this malaise.

But after all this I have gotten two test prints that I can peer into and finally surmise what needs adjustment next.
I am in the process now of releveling the spring loaded bed.

This purchase has gotten me a frame, mounts, motors, and firmware to start analysing the 3d printing world.
It took a life time(40years) of skill sets to get this thing to run. So instead of a $1000 purchase or a build from scratch I have a 2 month process and now am in the running to print objects. I mention this because you will go through a mental turmoil to get things right.

But now I kick ass. I turn it on, throw a file at it and press print.Viola! Good shat just comes out.

It will get better. I assure you as long as I surmise there is a listening audience. Got your ears on?

But everybody has their personal vendetta in conquering technology.

You will, at one point find yourself having to adjust the the Z axis min switch. It is not positioned correctly nor designed for this acute trimming.

Edited 9 time(s). Last edit at 01/10/2016 12:33AM by Giantkiller.

I just received one of these printers, but the Arduino does not appear under any serial port on the Arduino IDE on my mac. I am using the most recent version of Arduino IDE, and I have tried using different cables. It does appear on my Raspberry Pi though. Any ideas on how to fix?

I ran into this about a month ago. It has to do with Digitally assigned identification of usb devices. USB 3.1 is the culprit. 3.0 works just fine. I have a buddy that uses macs and this drove him bitshat till he found the reasoning. Good luck in your search.

Please Help Me
YouTube

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riccardo0996
Please Help Me
YouTube

Ok, that helps to see what the actual problem is, but you still didn't say: Did you try the thing tomleeds suggested?

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Prusa i3 Rework (from Replikeo.com) & original Prusa i3 MK2 (from shop.prusa3d.com) << the MK2 definitely is worth the higher cost!
Print Troubleshooting Guide // Visual troubleshooting guide

Could everyone please post their (working) marlin and/or repitier configuration file? Thanks!

I cannot get the Z-Axis to move at all. Whenever I try to home it or move it it simply makes a high pitched squeal. I have tried switching motors, stepper drivers, and adjusting the pots. Please Help!!

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baconator
I cannot get the Z-Axis to move at all. Whenever I try to home it or move it it simply makes a high pitched squeal. I have tried switching motors, stepper drivers, and adjusting the pots. Please Help!!

You should try adjusting the feedrates.
I will post my config here, but I STRONGLY advise you to not just copy and paste everything. Look at the values and try them out one by one, if you have another setup (like for example the endstops
on the other side than me) it could just not work correctely.

[and please use the "edit" button next time ]

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Prusa i3 Rework (from Replikeo.com) & original Prusa i3 MK2 (from shop.prusa3d.com) << the MK2 definitely is worth the higher cost!
Print Troubleshooting Guide // Visual troubleshooting guide

Quote
riccardo0996
Please Help Me
YouTube

Did you get your motor problem solved?

The cables may be bad. Try exchanging the cable and see if the problem continues.

Is there a consensus on the bed springs? Do I need to use them or just hard mount the hot plate?

Prusa wiki page doesn't even mention them, but they are included in the set.

I am having some trouble with movement on all axis'. They will all move in small increments but when I try to move them 10mm or more they don't move. I think that I have the current set high enough, but I might be wrong. Any suggestions? Backdraft, I mounted my heated bed on the springs, but I am not sure what the others have done.

Hey guys,

I mounted my bed on the springs, too. Problem is: Without them, you will get a hard time to level the bed. Additionally:
If the nozzle touches the bed, it won't do heavy damage, as the springs will retract before some other mechanics break.

For the motors: Do they move normally, if you only increment 1mm? Is there any unwanted noise? Normally it's either the
motor current or the feedrate in the configuration file (marlin).

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Prusa i3 Rework (from Replikeo.com) & original Prusa i3 MK2 (from shop.prusa3d.com) << the MK2 definitely is worth the higher cost!
Print Troubleshooting Guide // Visual troubleshooting guide

My Y endstop is too low to hit the bed. I have it on springs and it won't touch even if I tightem all the way down. I could build a small extension part there, but just wondering if I missed something, or did Replikeo mess up.

Should the rods sit all the way in the corner parts? If it did then it would hit the end stop just fine.





Any help would be appreciated.

My federates are currently {2000, 2000, .117, 25} // (mm/sec). Is that generally to high, to low, or about normal? All of my stepper drivers are set to the same amount of current, which is about where 11 o'clock would be on an analog clock (pot at the bottom). I would have attached another picture but it wouldn't let me. Also, does anyone know where this piece goes? I have found the axis step per unit to be under ten on the x and y axis. Is this the same for anyone else? This is my first 3D printer and I now understand why not everyone has one! Thanks!

My smooth rods slid into the plastic corner when I assembled my printer.

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 03/13/2016 11:47AM by baconator.

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Backdraft
Should the rods sit all the way in the corner parts?

Yes, and secured with a cable tie on each corner.

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baconator
Also, does anyone know where this piece goes?

This part can increase the height of the Z end stop mount..

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permans

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Backdraft
Should the rods sit all the way in the corner parts?

Yes, and secured with a cable tie on each corner.

So I have the wrong size parts? The rods are 8mm. The opening on the corner slot is about 7.5mm

Can anyone confirm the sizes?

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Backdraft

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permans

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Backdraft
Should the rods sit all the way in the corner parts?

Yes, and secured with a cable tie on each corner.

So I have the wrong size parts? The rods are 8mm. The opening on the corner slot is about 7.5mm

Can anyone confirm the sizes?

You have to slide it in from the side instead of pushing it in from the top



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/13/2016 11:50AM by permans.

I am having a lot of noise and vibration with all of my motors except the z axis and extruder. Any suggestions?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/13/2016 11:55AM by baconator.

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You have to slide it in from the side instead of pushing it in from the top

Thanks. Now I feel stupid.

To my defence I was following a YT guide where the just sit on top.

I figured out the problem. I had the stepper driver suppling way to much current. This Guide was extremely helpful.

EDIT: I was able to print my first 20mm cube. I am having lots of trouble with vibration and noise though. Does any one have any suggestions? My current feedrates are {1000, 1000, 2, 25}.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/14/2016 01:44PM by baconator.

Hey,

The wiki assembly instructions doesn't have this part. I can't seem to find it on Replikeos bill of materials list either.

Where do I put this thing?

That looks like an x axis homing finger. It would attach to the top of the x axis carriage and push the microswitch lever.

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Replikeo Prusa I3 Rework, Ramps 1.4, Marlin, Pronterface, Tinkercad.
Plan B is always to be somebody else.

My Y axis endstop is working in the wrong direction. It only stops the bed when it's going away from the endstop and I push the stop by hand.
A couple of pages back there was suggestions to this to change the #define Y_HOME_DIR 1 to -1 but this doesn't doesn't change anything. It does the same thing.

What do I need to change in the settings?

EDIT:

Found the problem. The endstop need to be connected into different pins depending on it's placement (MIN or MAX).
If the endstop is in the front, you hook it up to the 3rd row from the bottom on the RAMPS. If it's in the back, it's the 4th row.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/25/2016 11:17AM by Backdraft.

You are going to need this in the future...

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Replikeo Prusa I3 Rework, Ramps 1.4, Marlin, Pronterface, Tinkercad.
Plan B is always to be somebody else.

Is anybody else getting really inconsistent extrusion? When I extrude filament I see that the gears move and the bearing moves but then the bearing stops for 2 seconds and then starts up again

My crystal ball shows you have a non tensioned extruder. True?
I had the same problems. That is why I replaced mine with a bowden tensioned, Omerud feeder.
I am still working on the incorporating the Ev3d v6 hotends.

I got my Replikeo Prusa i3 rework dual i april by China mail to Norway. Took ca 90 days. No damage to packet, and evrything in good condision.

Had some problems with a faulty Arduino Mega board, but changed it with another cheap clone and the printer electronics now works great.

The bowden extruders that came with the kit was rubbish, and I changed it from the start with a M8 extruder from ebay.

Never started using the dual nozzel setup, and dont think the quality of the nozzel is good enough for it. But prints fine with just one.

I changed some of the bearings to tighter ones, and printed many new and improved parts. Specialy the holder for the z-endstop was crap, and was changed to this (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:542892)

Had some noise from the y-axis, so printed new holders for the bearings under the bed, and now perfect. (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1119584)

The z-axis frame is abit loose, and I printed this to make it stiffer. (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:723748)

After two months I wanted better quality and order a E3D v6 and a Titan extruder (genuine). Very happy with it. Prints very nice.

I have also changed the Z-axis rod to a T8 threaded rod, and that is much nicer. Recommended, but not a must.

Is there anyone, that could already try out the prusa i3 update kit (http://shop.prusa3d.com/en/3d-printer-parts/106-original-prusa-i3-plus-to-mk2-upgrade-kit.html)
with the printer from replikeo, yet?
They implement some really good changes and the pricing seems quite reasonable (as also the E3D is included in the upgrade kit!).

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Prusa i3 Rework (from Replikeo.com) & original Prusa i3 MK2 (from shop.prusa3d.com) << the MK2 definitely is worth the higher cost!
Print Troubleshooting Guide // Visual troubleshooting guide