My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build

So following someone else's suggestion on the interwebs I applied the metal-coated, self-adhesive, insulated tape to a piece of cardboard and then I attached it to the bottom of the heatbed with kapton tape (they suggested clips). Unfortunately it was late and I wasn't thinking about how the metal tape might short out the LEDs on the heatbed (I DID think about it shorting the heater wires), and so when I powered it up and walked away to let it heat help broke loose... the mosfet got really hot and melted a bit of the jumper block below and the LEDs on the HB are now toast.

Then later, after disconnecting the power and monkeying around with the wires and insulation I went to plug in the USB and managed to somehow burn out the USB port on the arduino mega Fortunately I have a USB-TTL module (USB to Serial) and I was able to connect to the mega that way.

Also, the mega now wants to be powered by the USB and wont come on from just the RAMPS power. :/

Finally, in the LCD interface I can't seem to increase the HB temp to beyond 105, I'm not sure why.

Yay?

Wow, sorry to hear that, but on the bright side the replacement Ramps Replikeo uses is ~13.00. I damaged an end stop last night myself. I have it running a program now at least, had to turn the minimum temps to 0 since i don't have the hot end yet. After 1 hour of running, my motors are still cool, no temp rise at all, so not sure if i have them tuned correctly yet, although all the axis seem to run very smooth. Tired of waiting for the hot end, so ordered one off Amazon next day delivery. Can't hurt to have a spare anyway.

It must be bad karma, because I broke 2 legs on my Z endstop microswitch

Probably the phase of the moon... LOL

I have a new Mega coming ($19) and a new RAMPS board coming from someone else ($<$11). Both should be here Monday. Meanwhile I can still print with PLA (if you can call it that); I still haven't gotten the settings for PLA down to where I get a good, consistent print. ABS, while rougher on the hardware, seems to provide a better, more forgiving print.

Somebody here was running their HB of a relay and I bought one "just in case". Any idea how to wire that?

If i remember correctly, Trike was running HB with relay.

Btw what is your problem with printing PLA?

There is a "bang Bang" setting in Marlin to run an external relay, but im pretty sure it still uses your now burnt transistor to drive the relay. Some simple soldering tools, you can replace that transistor pretty easily, id bet Radio Shack still carries them.

I bought one from here
[www.banggood.com] quite some time ago, its actually the one i'm using right now that way it was programmed before my printer ever showed up. Even says made in Italy on it.

Greg: try using saturated solution of water and sugar applied on glass when printing with PLA without HB.

Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 07/10/2014 09:16PM by Allnei.

Actually the HB is working stably at 50C but I'm not sure how high I can push it at this point. Still, it's good enough for PLA. I print PLA just fine both with and without hairspray. My problem with PLA is that I haven't been able to nail down the right formula for good, reliable print quality. I'm thinking at this point that maybe the previous layer is still too hot when the next layer comes along (I've been printing mostly smaller parts). I have a dual-fan mount printed out and I'm thinking of trying that, to blow on the printed part as it's printing. Is anyone else doing that? Also I'm going to lower the print speed.

@underthetire The mosfet is this functional, but now seems temperamental. Though it would surely be enough to drive the relay. I'll look for that setting, thanks!

Incidentally, I've bought a couple arduino unos and they are all made in China. This is my first Mega. If you want to be sure you got the 'real thing', look here... [arduino.cc] .

I've bought some clones before, and this may well a clone, but its the best clone I've seen. Seems to be working, got my extruder running with the M302. Went to Michaels tonight to get a piece of glass cut. $26.00 for a std piece of glass! I don't think so! Going to the dollar store tomorrow. I'll cut my own.

I went to the local glass place after talking to the guy a bit about what I was going to do with it he GAVE me the glass! He cut it from scraps and when I asked how much he said, "I just broke more than that just cutting it. Just take it. And print me something..." People are REALLY interested in this shit.

Greg at what temperature do you print PLA?

I've tried temps ranging from 180 to 200. Best results for nozzle flow and infill seem to be closer to 200 but I'm still getting wavy edges in many places.

Quote
underthetire
I've bought some clones before, and this may well a clone, but its the best clone I've seen. Seems to be working, got my extruder running with the M302. Went to Michaels tonight to get a piece of glass cut. $26.00 for a std piece of glass! I don't think so! Going to the dollar store tomorrow. I'll cut my own.

That AT Mega you posted is absolutely a clone. That's cheaper than the wholesale price of a genuine Arduino. The solder mask of whatever gerbers they used likely had the "made in Italy". It says it's "for Arduino", not an Arduino. Basically if it's coming from a fab house or discounter in Asia it's a clone. Many of the clones are good quality and function just as well as an Arduino. The genius of the Arduino isn't the circutiry. It's a prototyping board where modularity and the ability to stack shields for rapid development is key.

Unless you can safety seam the glass you cut I'd suggest going to Lowes or Home Depot for plain glass. If it's not seamed it will rip your hands open just handling it. It's really sharp and it might not look like it.

Michael's is selling it for art frames and projects so there will be a premium attached to it. I wouldn't have thought of going there but it does make sense they sell it.

Since it is my 3 day weekend, did some more today. Got the heat bed on. The only thing I had to solder, so far. I have some good quality carol 12 soft MTW that was much better than the SO cord they put on. PID tunning went smooth, held at 100 really well. Fan is hooked up now, have complete control of that. Just waiting for Amazon to deliver my J head now and calibrate the extruder.

It prints!

WooHoo! Good job! @underthetire Welcome!

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/12/2014 01:34AM by gadget_greg.

How is everyone running their wires? I'm thinking of reorganizing my printer (hopefully reducing drag on the x-axis) and I'm soliciting ideas. I printed a nice RAMPS mount that fits great onto Tech2C's z-supports and I may move the RAMPS to the right side of the printer. I'm also going to move the y-axis motor to the back again...

Can't believe how nice the parts are coming out. Took me quite a few hours, I think the thermistor in the head is different, had to go to 250 to get a nice extrude.

My y axis motor and end stop are in the back. I plan to print the 20mm cable chain for the table and x axis. The x end stop wiring goes down and back underneath with the Z motor cable. Had to use a servo extension from my RC stash.

Yeah, I think I'm going to have to buy some wire or extensions.

On the plus side the new Mega and RAMPS boards arrived today. I wasn't expecting them until Monday or Tuesday.

Sounds like you'll be back in business today. I'm hoping my new end stop shows up, I'm living on borrowed time with this one. Well, off to home depot for some PVC for a spool holder.

Some of my new prints (sorry for quality)

If you don't mind me asking, where did you find the extruder body? I was looking everywhere for it. Prints look good BTW.

[www.thingiverse.com]

Nice job Allnei!

The new RAMPS also won't power the Mega. I checked both sets of leads coming from the power supply and they were both 12.06V. Both the Mega and the RAMPS board are brand new. This is weird...

Thanks! Been printing spares all day.

That is strange, do you have an LCD panel possibly pulling down the arduino?

I have an LCD. What do you mean by 'pulling down'?

It USED to work fine then, when I shorted whatever I shorted the other day, I could no longer run the printer alone (to print from SD). But I replaced the Mega AND the RAMPS board. I'm baffled. But my first (small) print (PLA) with the new electronics was great! I tweaked my stepper drivers to all be closer together in voltage. I don't know if that's what did it but I'll try something bigger next.

Sometimes devices will fail, and pull down system voltage, in this case the 5vdc internal to the arduino. Probably not it, but an easy check.
I've had a couple parts fail today by lifting on one side. Turned the heat bed up 5 degrees, printing a platter around the part, and blocked wind from the ceiling fan. Trial and error.

I switched back to ABS and the extruder was stable at 220C and the heatbed stable at 110C. I just printed a tiny part to check. Now I'm looking for something bigger.

There are two extruder bodies in the i3 Rework but I'm not clear on the difference. But it's high time for me to print backup parts for the printer!

I just looked at the model and the one "with support" has extra plastic to support overhanging pieces.

BTW, FreeCAD is good for checking out models in various formats. I haven't delved into building or modifying anything with it yet though.