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My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build

Posted by Trike 
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
July 13, 2014 12:07AM
I just import the solid to sketch up. Im more comfortable with that. Im not good with cad programs.
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
July 13, 2014 05:18AM
There are 2x 3mm (with support and without) + extruder for 1.75mm filament. Check filenames

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/13/2014 06:00AM by Allnei.
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
July 13, 2014 03:43PM
Ah, I didn't notice the 1.75mm one.

I tried printing out a large Wade gear last night and the first one was ok and probably usable but I tried a second print with 4-perimeters rather than 3 and it wasn't really any better. My dimensions are pretty close but circles are never round and there are always gaps in my infill. I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong. I think Slic3r just doesn't like me... tongue sticking out smiley
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
July 13, 2014 04:14PM
Gaps in top infill are normal and are caused by Slic3r. Not circular shapes are caused by bad tension on axis belt (on axis in which direction shapes are not circular)
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
July 13, 2014 05:20PM
Lots of failed prints today. Extruder is digging holes! I'm up to 260 now and its finally feeding. I wonder how good this free abs roll is.
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
July 13, 2014 05:32PM
All my prints are from Replikeo filament, so it is "usable". Extruder chewing filament can be: too cold HE, bad idler pressure, tangled filament or bad filament position. Try set heat your HE and manually push filament through

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/13/2014 05:33PM by Allnei.
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
July 13, 2014 06:15PM
It finally made a decent part today. I'm up 10 deg since yesterday. My thermocouple probe for my meter is broken, can't weld it until tomorrow with the laser, I need to see what's going on.
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
July 13, 2014 06:45PM
I think I'm going to attempt an x-idler with a built-in tension adjustment. Adhesion on my last two prints was not good. I seem to get better prints with the ABS but it is definitely tougher to work with.

My j-head is also still a bit wobbly. I'm going to take it off and see if I can't get it tighter. I've read that an 8 or 10mm washer as a spacer might do the trick.
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
July 13, 2014 07:42PM
My J-head is wobbly too, but it doesn´t have effect on print, because when it is printing, it remain in one position.

If you have problem with adhesion, try adjust 1. layer thickness (0,2 for better adhesion, 0.4 for poorly levelled bed). Type of hair spray make difference too. I found that there are at least two types of hairspray. One is hard @100°C and must be sprayed on hot HB to achieve "sand paper" like surface. Other one is sticky @100°C and must be sprayed on cold HB to achieve flat glass like sticky surface.

Main ingredients
"hard one": Acrylates/Octylacrylamide Copolymer, Aminomethyl Propnalo, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Cyclopentasiloxane
"sticky one": Vinyl Caprolactym/Dimethylaminooethyl, Methacrylate Copolymer

Sticky one hold parts better, but it is pain to take them off (you must wait until your HB is at least @40°C) and prints must be cleaned with water from remains of it. Hard one is "cleaner" and parts can be take off very fast (@70-80°C) and can be used without cleaning.

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 07/13/2014 07:44PM by Allnei.
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
July 13, 2014 08:11PM
Quote
gadget_greg
I think I'm going to attempt an x-idler with a built-in tension adjustment. Adhesion on my last two prints was not good. I seem to get better prints with the ABS but it is definitely tougher to work with.

My j-head is also still a bit wobbly. I'm going to take it off and see if I can't get it tighter. I've read that an 8 or 10mm washer as a spacer might do the trick.

Curling and adhesion are issues when learning to work with ABS. It cools at a different rate than PLA and this leads to some of the curling issues or parts breaking loose mid print.

For adhesion promoters I use UHU stick for ABS. It's a German craft glue stick available at art supply houses like Blick. I can apply to either a cold or hot bed. I use Aqua Net hairspray (the purple can formula) when I have PLA that is problematic but prefer not to use any adhesion promoter on PLA. It makes it too difficult to get the part off the bed sometimes. I can spray on a cold or hot bed. I always heat the bed, 50 for PLA and 110 for ABS and polycarbonate.

The washer will work to tighten the JHead. I'll likely change the extruder body to ABS on my Rework kits. The PLA extruder is fine at first but after it's been heated for a couple hours it starts to loosen. This was an issue as well with PLA Gregs and Wades extruders used on i2s and i3s. PLA seems to be fine for everything else.
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
July 13, 2014 11:15PM
Man, gave up for today. It will feed fine for a while then just start chewing a slot. I did find certain spots of the filament snap off when bent, other areas just kind of bend.
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
July 14, 2014 12:33AM
Hi,

I'm new in this forum.
I read this forum and start build replikeo, its works like a cham. But i have one problem, all the print result is in reverse. I just made 2 printing without any single fail.
I tried to reverse the X axis (now is + to move to left and - move to right, i want to change in reverse ) but i have home position problem always hit the end stop or left motor.

I print z end stop mounting, but the result in reverse
[m.youtube.com]

I print bolt, the result is the screw is in reverse, to tight anti clockwise and to lose it is clockwise.
[m.youtube.com]

Any clue ?

Cheers,

John
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
July 14, 2014 03:16AM
I added a washer to the extruder above the jhead and now it's tight and printing GREAT! My print quality jumped up dramatically! No 'wavies' and circles are much more circular.

My settings for ABS right now are 220C for the extruder, 110C for the bed. Just a tiny bit more calibration and I should be in business. smiling smiley
I'm also cleaning the glass between every print and spraying Aquanet (purple can) onto the cold glass then heating while it dries.

@flyrobot First, welcome! Second, I had the same problem and after beating my head on it I just unbolted the y-axis and turned it around and the mirroring went away. LOL. If you can't figure out the right settings, try that, it worked for me. winking smiley

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/14/2014 03:19AM by gadget_greg.
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
July 14, 2014 07:46AM
@flyrobot: Welcome!

Some advice for you: Buy glass and print on glass, PCB HB is not flat and Carbon plate from Replikeo is flexible, so bed leveling is pain.
Almost everyone here had problem with mirrored prints. It is problem with Y axis (not X). Problem is, that Replikeo configuration is for printer with Y motor on back side, but original assembly instruction have motor on front side. From your video, i can see that your motor is on back side so you can use Replikeo config. Reason why your prints are mirrored is because you connected Y motor differently from others. Just turn your Y motor connector and your prints will be good.
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
July 14, 2014 10:41AM
Well, i did use the glass straight off. Its a good point, I heated the CF plate one time and can see it warp. I now have it between the heat bed and the Y axis plate to help insulate. I also chopped 10ft off the abs spool and threw it away. The very next print came out fine, with no extruder problems.
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
July 14, 2014 12:26PM
Hi Allnei,

Thank you for your advice. So far i dont have any problem with stock carbon fiber yet.
Yes, before that i have problem with Y axis, it cannot in home position with replikeo configuration. I reverse the Y motor cable and #define Y_HOME_DIR 1 , but still no luck, until i got #define Y_HOME_DIR -1 .
Beside #define Y_HOME_DIR 1/-1, is any other parameter we need to change?

Cheers,

John
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
July 14, 2014 01:23PM
Hi Allnei,

I change back the configuration as suggested on replikeo as follow :

#define INVERT_X_DIR false // for Mendel set to false, for Orca set to true
#define INVERT_Y_DIR true // for Mendel set to true, for Orca set to false
#define INVERT_Z_DIR true // for Mendel set to false, for Orca set to true
#define INVERT_E0_DIR false // for direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to false
#define INVERT_E1_DIR false // for direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to false
#define INVERT_E2_DIR false // for direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to false

// ENDSTOP SETTINGS:
// Sets direction of endstops when homing; 1=MAX, -1=MIN
#define X_HOME_DIR -1
#define Y_HOME_DIR 1
#define Z_HOME_DIR -1

and i change the Y motor cable, when i press home Y axis : one side cable Y motor, the motor does not want stop always hitting the endstop and the other side the motor does not want to stop hitting border.

Any clue ?

Cheers,

John
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
July 14, 2014 03:30PM
When you change home direction, you must also reconnect endstop connector to right slot. On Ramps1.4 you have X-(min),X+ (max), Y- (min),Y+ (max), Z- (min),Z+ (max).

When your motor is on back, you must set
#define X_HOME_DIR 1
#define Y_HOME_DIR -1
#define Z_HOME_DIR -1

And connect endstops to X+ (max), Y- (min), Z- (min)

#define INVERT_Y_DIR true

Also connect motors with green wire closer to power connector.

Make sure, that you have right travel limits
#define X_MAX_POS 200
#define X_MIN_POS 0
#define Y_MAX_POS 200 (I have 185 due to small glass)
#define Y_MIN_POS 0 (I have 14 due to small glass)
#define Z_MAX_POS 150 (this depends on your cables, just test how high can Z go)
#define Z_MIN_POS 0

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 07/14/2014 03:32PM by Allnei.
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
July 14, 2014 04:43PM
As Allnei said, if you configure your Y axis motor and end stop like Replikeo shows, with the configuration in Marlin, then you need to move the end stop connector, should be on the 4th pin set looking at the board with the power connector on the left. I had the same issue till i moved it one spot.
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
July 15, 2014 02:54AM
So I'm finally getting some good quality prints on small objects and calibration models so I decided to print something a little bigger, a modified x-idler. I got it printing, I watch the first 4 layers or so and I thought maybe the infill looked a more like 40% rather than the 60% I intended so I went upstairs to check the gcode and it was 60%. Ok. I go back about 20 minutes later to check on its progress and... nothing. The axes are all functioning but no ABS is flowing from the nozzle. I tried forcing it by hand to no avail, very little came out. So it looks like tomorrow morning I get a crash course in nozzle cleaning! Yay! tongue sticking out smiley Maybe I need to print one of those filament cleaner/dusters after all...
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
July 15, 2014 08:47AM
Thanks to Bratan for the spool adaped to iron i3 !

This printer is very impressive ! I spent 3 days with calibration cubes, the result is so good, at 0.2mm.
But 3d printing is not good for every day life ; my wife complains each day for the time spending to calibrate ... so I print her a beautifull wheel for her roomba robot ! Hope she lets me 3 another days to calibrate ... ;-)
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
July 15, 2014 08:52AM
Auto bed leveling can reduce calibrating to minimum smiling smiley

Greg: If you need clean your HE, just clean filament that leaked from nozzle (from last print), heat HE to about 130°C and gently but fast pull out filament (by hand, so you must unscrew iddler). It will make *pop* and you will have nice and clean nozzle.
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
July 15, 2014 11:19AM
Hi Allnei,

Thank you for your suggestion. From my configuration I just change the endpoint Cable position and set the home Y to max. Now it works.

I just know the end point Cable position has + and - , I guess its a port for other applications.

Cheers,

John
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
July 15, 2014 11:26AM
I don´t know what you mean by "port for other applications", but Ramps can handle endstop for min/max on all axis so its 6 endstops. Marlin in default configuration is using default connectors on Ramps to check endstops, so if you set home to MIN, endstop must be connected to MIN port on that axis.

Other Firmware called Repetier can be easily configurated to check Y min endstop for example on Z max endstop connector

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 07/15/2014 11:27AM by Allnei.
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
July 15, 2014 11:32AM
Each build for me stops an hour in to run with the filament not extruding, and the "hobbed bolt" just digging a slot in the filament. Temps are still good, checked with a meter. Also checked alignment of the hot end to the body and the filament goes through smooth. I just made some new hobbed bolts, im beginning to think its the super soft bolts they used, i can see wear on it already. Also got parts to switch to 1.75mm, and new filament should be here tomorrow.
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
July 15, 2014 11:37AM
Underthetire how thick is your first layer? My hobbed bolt start slipping due to bad bed leveling when first layer was like 0.05mm (in gcode it was 0.3mm)

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/15/2014 11:38AM by Allnei.
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
July 15, 2014 11:55AM
Hi Allnei,

I mean port is : there is 6 port in end stop (on RAMP1.4), we use only 3 port for 3 axis endstop, I meant from 3 port use for endstop and the other 3 might for other application (i don't know). So I just know this is for : 1) X-(min),2) X+ (max), 3)Y- (min),4) Y+ (max), 5) Z- (min), 6) Z+ (max). Application means such as LCD, or anything to add into the printer>

I am using Repetier host for controlling the printer

Anyway thanks for your help.

Cheers,

John

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/15/2014 11:59AM by flyrobot.
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
July 15, 2014 01:05PM
I can't manually push the ABS through the HE. sad smiley
I've cleaned out the nozzle tip with a very small, stiff wire. It will extrude a little then stop and the hobbed bolt grinds the filament.
I'm also seeing some liquid ABS in the joint between the hot end and the barrel of the cold end.
It just seems like one thing after another... :/
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
July 15, 2014 02:21PM
First layer is almost always good, in fact it will build quite a bit then the hobbed bolt just grinds away. It will finish a short run job sometimes. I got the ABS oozing out between the hot end and the peek insulator as well. Its all apart now soaking in Acetone, and ran a .4mm drill through the tip. My newly straight knurled hobbed bolt is ready to go in tonight. I really think the ABS has a problem, its almost like small pieces are not melting clogging up the nozzle, and some areas of the ABS are brittle like PLA, others very flexible. I may end up drilling the nozzle to .5mm to see if it makes any difference, but since I have some 1.75 coming tomorrow ill probably hold off.

It sounds like gadget greg is having the same issue. Are you using the Replikeo ABS? Wonder if they got a bad batch?
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
July 15, 2014 02:22PM
Search this forum for HE leaking it is "common" problem.
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