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My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build

Posted by Trike 
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gadget_greg
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
July 15, 2014 02:26PM
Yeah, this is the Replikeo ABS.

Did you remove the resistor and thermistor too? Are they glued in in any way or just held in by the kapton tape?

Sadly the smallest drill bit I have is 0.5mm but when the HE was hot I stuck a small, stiff wire up in there, so the nozzle was clear. :/
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underthetire
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
July 15, 2014 03:05PM
Im using a Sainsmart J head hot end, since i still don't have my Replikeo hot end. This one has a cartridge heater in it, not sure about the Replikeo J head. Its held in by a small set screw. The thermistor just sits in a hole held on by the kapton tape. Funny thing is, I printed all day Saturday without any extruder problems, in fact i was using the soft springs with zero fill gaps. Sunday decided to print a new extruder, it ran till about 1" tall, maybe more, then went down hill with nothing but extruder problems. Sunday night, i cut 10ft off the spool and tried again and made 2 more good parts then problems again. I started at 250 then dropped to 230, and problem free. I went back to 250 and even 255, expecting the ABS to ooze and nothing. I just got my thermocouple welded, so im double checking temps again, since i dont trust my infra red one that much.
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underthetire
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
July 15, 2014 04:07PM
Interesting turn of events....
I dissolved (or tried to) some ABS in acetone for 6 hours. Some dissolved, but left behind some pieces that did not dissolve at all. Just big enough pieces to clog the nozzle. Think i found the problem.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/15/2014 04:14PM by underthetire.
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gadget_greg
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
July 15, 2014 06:35PM
So there's a good chance that Replikeo's ABS is crap. I guess it's a good thing that their shipping rates are prohibitive. LOL!
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underthetire
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
July 15, 2014 07:24PM
Well, i don't know if its crap, others had good luck with it, but im wondering if there was a bad batch. I might try again tonight with everything cleaned and a nice new sharp hobbed bolt.
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Allnei
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
July 15, 2014 07:30PM
Cheap china filament (not just Replikeo) is lottery. You can have good results with it, or it can be disaster. Just try it with some standard quality filament.

All my ABS (black, yellow, red) + lime green PLA are good and I am able print with them. Today I printed Owl statue at 0.1 and came out pretty good (photo probably tomorrow)
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underthetire
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
July 16, 2014 12:23AM
Well, tried a print with the new hobbed bolt and clean head. Actually came out.
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gadget_greg
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
July 16, 2014 03:07AM
I took my jhead apart and cleaned it too and I finally got my first nearly-perfect print! smiling smiley
Perhaps a picture tomorrow... smiling smiley
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underthetire
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
July 16, 2014 11:01AM
Ran 2 more parts last night, best prints yet. Going to run a long job tonight. I did notice spots of popping and hissing, tells me there is surely something in the ABS. Im back down to 237 degrees.
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gadget_greg
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
July 16, 2014 11:49AM
Right after I reassembled the jhead I got some popping and hissing too. My Pronterhead preheats to 230 even though it's only set to 220, not sure why, but 230 appears to be too hot for my setup. I print ABS at 220 with my HB at 110.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/16/2014 11:50AM by gadget_greg.
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Allnei
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
July 16, 2014 12:08PM
I have popping too, it is from air bubbles in filament. Today I printed case for my Raspberry PI and it came out pretty good. Right now I am in state, that printer prints what I want and only problem is little corner warping.
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underthetire
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
July 16, 2014 12:29PM
I just found a pretty major mistake I made when i wired the Ramps. Couldn't find correct info on where to wire the extruder fan. The only print I was able to find was D9. D9 is for a parts cooling fan, and the extruder fan is supposed to run all the time. Looks like a little re-wire tonight.

Greg, did you run the PID tuning loop for the hot bed and nozzle? 230 is what Replikeo uses on the temp, and there will always be variances from head to head. Mine will overshoot, but only a couple degrees. There is also a setting in slicer to control the first layer temp vs the build temp. My parts are actually coming out very flat using the brim method and 110 on the bed.
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Bratan
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
July 16, 2014 12:59PM
Quote
syl20077
Thanks to Bratan for the spool adaped to iron i3 ! [attachment 36608 20140712_185907.jpg]
Hehe no problem! smiling smiley Did you print it out of PLA? BTW your printer looks really neat! I found cable organizer that came with Replikeo kit is too short, but Radioshack sells really long one for just $7!
Did you have enough wire on your X endstop? Mine is a bit too short and sometimes catches on the heatbed when it moves sad smiley I think I'll extend it.
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gadget_greg
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
July 16, 2014 01:25PM
I haven't done any PID tuning. If I'm even using it it's because it's a default. tongue sticking out smiley

My X and Y axes are nearly spot-on. Z was pretty damned close without any tweaking at all and the one calibration shape that I'm using for X-Y has a hard time printing Z because the plastic is too hot as the next layer gets laid down so it ends up just pushing plastic around. [www.thingiverse.com]

Here's a pic of my first near-perfect print. smiling smiley
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Attachments:
open | download - IMG_8789.JPG (192 KB)
underthetire
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
July 16, 2014 01:48PM
Bratan: I used a model servo extension wire for the X end stop. It was too short
Greg, PID is default on in config H on Marlin, however you need to run the PID tuning loop to get your temperatures more stable. Mine were way off till i did the tune. It will help a lot with the overshoot. Mine holds less than 1 deg variance on the hot end and bed.
for nozzle M303 E0 S200 C8
for bed M303 E1 S60 C8

S is your normal temp. I ran my bed at 110 and hot end at 210 ( middle of ABS and PLA)
Then take the values it gives you and store them in config H
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gadget_greg
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
July 16, 2014 02:50PM
I'll try it out, thanks! Just by watching it, though, I don't see much variability.

Do brims help with corner pull-up?
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underthetire
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
July 16, 2014 02:58PM
Did for me. Just more de-burring after the print is finished.
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flyrobot
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
July 17, 2014 10:16AM
Hi Guys,

I like my printer now, Anyone has used LCD display ? what is the best and working good in Prusa I3 Ramp 1.4 (replikeo) ?
I saw there is some model :
1. Intelligent-Controller-LCD-Control-Board
2. LCD Smart Controller Dispaly

I like Intelligent _controller LCD, any has experienced with this LCD ?

Cheers,

John
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underthetire
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
July 17, 2014 10:43AM
Yes, i have the generic smart control one now, with a generic intelligent one on the way.-
This is the one I got from Replikeo
[www.banggood.com]
works fine

This one i ordered a couple weeks ago, should be here this week.
[www.banggood.com]

You will need to add a file to your arduino library to use the graphics one, and un-comment the correct display.
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flyrobot
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
July 17, 2014 11:11AM
hi Underthetire,

That sounds good, do you think [www.banggood.com] this one will work with marlin ?

Cheers,

John
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gadget_greg
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
July 17, 2014 11:42AM
@flyrobot I have that one and it works great with Marlin! And Bang_Good's price is about $5 less than I paid, but I wanted it to be here as soon as the printer arrived so I paid the extra $.

The only things you have to do to get it working are to un-comment the proper line in Marlin and to be sure the font/graphics library is available to the arduino IDE whenever you compile.
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flyrobot
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
July 17, 2014 11:56AM
Hi Greg,

Thank you the information, now i decide to have a bigger screen one.
I think you right, its better pay extra but surely the shipment go faster, otherwise i am waiting without knowing where is my order now. I just ordered 3 items in one order, but they sent 3 items into 3 different shipping. 1 have track number and the other 2 items no track number.
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underthetire
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
July 17, 2014 12:19PM
Ya, unless Banggood has it in the US plant, usually takes 2-3 weeks. I order stuff from the US plant, I always get it in 2 days.

I ran a 3 hour job last night, no problems! Im pretty happy.

I will suggest replacing your hobbed bolt with a good quality one. I accidentally stalled my extruder with the new hobbed bolt I made. It actually stalled the stepper, no more digging notches in the filament. Corrected my mistake ( Z offset too large) and hit go right away. No messing with filament at all. The hobbed bolt Replikeo sent was not 8mm all the way across, the shoulder was closer to 7mm, my new one is 5/16 so it measures .308 all the way down, even closer to the bearing size than a true M8 would be.
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gadget_greg
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
July 17, 2014 12:28PM
How can you tell where the bang_good stuff is coming from? I've ordered a ton of stuff from chinese (et al) companies on eBay and once in a while it comes lickity split like yours, unless it's marked as "Fast and Free" shipping it's a crap shoot.

I have a metric tap set coming in a few days and I plan to make a new hobbed bolt. winking smiley

btw, the longest job I've run so far has been under 2 hours. I'm still having trouble with circles; I'm researching it now...
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flyrobot
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
July 17, 2014 01:30PM
I just print a camera gimbal for my Dji phantom, but why the result like in the picture attached.

There is one layer is not sticky, anyone have this problem? is it because the low quality of filament or there is unstable Z axis step?
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Attachments:
open | download - 20140717_235232.jpg (63.3 KB)
gadget_greg
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
July 17, 2014 01:49PM
I'm not 100% sure why that happens sometimes, too cool extruder temperature?

If it's ABS you can easily 'glue' it with acetone...
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underthetire
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
July 17, 2014 02:15PM
Quote
gadget_greg
How can you tell where the bang_good stuff is coming from? I've ordered a ton of stuff from chinese (et al) companies on eBay and once in a while it comes lickity split like yours, unless it's marked as "Fast and Free" shipping it's a crap shoot.

I have a metric tap set coming in a few days and I plan to make a new hobbed bolt. winking smiley

btw, the longest job I've run so far has been under 2 hours. I'm still having trouble with circles; I'm researching it now...

Banggood you can either search in the US stock, or if you select an item, if its in the US it will show warehouse options China with the red flag, or US with the RWB flag. I did my bolt different, i had access to a lathe with a real straight knurling tool. I was able to straight knurl right at the thread, so instead of grooves, it actually has spikes. Im running a tensioner with filament guide, so no reason for the bogus radius they put in. There are some guys on Ebay selling them like this, and one US company that actually uses a real gear hobbing machine. Both look like nice quality stuff.
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underthetire
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
July 17, 2014 02:18PM
Looks like it cooled to quickly and pulled up in my amateur at best opinion. Outside drafts can cause this, that much i know already.
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gadget_greg
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
July 17, 2014 03:49PM
I'm going to try something like this to hob my bolts. <--sounds dirty

[www.thingiverse.com]
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underthetire
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
July 17, 2014 05:18PM
Should work just fine. My approach is not for your average diy'er. I think just the knurling set I used was close to 1k, and the lathe is still worth 25k even though its 30 years old or more.
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