My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
Posted by Trike
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Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build August 21, 2014 01:00AM |
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gadget_greg
The excess is not a problem, the whole idea is that the smooth rods are parallel, at the same width on both ends, and the same width as the linear bearings attached to the heated bed mount. You can keep them slightly loose until you get the bed moving smoothly then tighten them up.
I ended up replacing my upper threaded rod on the back end with a 5/16" (or was it 3/8"?) rod that was a couple inches longer so I could install the z-stabilizer that Tech2C posted earlier in this thread. It works great! [forums.reprap.org]
Oh cool. I didn't *think* it was a problem, but wanted to ask to be sure. I also realized I said 186mm, but that figure is wrong. 186mm is the width between legs on the short side (which mine is). The length is more like 320mm or something. In either case, I lined up everything parallel, shortened the length so that the smooth rods are nice and snug in the legs, and I'm just going to ignore the extra length on the threaded rods. As long as all my widths are the same, I should be fine, like you said
Thanks!Also, wow! That looks like a great idea with those z-stabilizer rods. I may wind up adding those at some point to mine.
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Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build August 21, 2014 01:39AM |
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gadget_greg
They definitely stiffen the whole thing up a lot!
Cool! I will definitely look into it. First I have to figure out why one of the y-corner legs is not sitting flush with the table while the other 3 are
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Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build August 21, 2014 05:23AM |
Okay, so I didn't go to bed I am now, though, as I give up for one night. These sainsmart endstops are the worst. I can't figure out how to mount the z endstop holder and endstop. Any ideas?
I am now, though, as I give up for one night. These sainsmart endstops are the worst. I can't figure out how to mount the z endstop holder and endstop. Any ideas?
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Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build August 21, 2014 11:06PM |
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underthetire
My z end stop fit perfectly on the stepper motor mount. Y axis never was correct. Would be nice if it was easier to adjust though.
How did you attach yours? Didn't your kit come with the same Sainsmart endstops? You can't screw them in to the holder because of the stupid connector. I ziptied mine for now. It's not a great solution, but until I can print out a different z endstop holder, it'll have to do
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Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build August 21, 2014 11:29PM |
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alvinhochun
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LittleMike
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alvinhochun
Bend more. Try harder.Quote
LittleMike
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alvinhochun
Easy, plug in the cable and bend the connector pins. Now you can screw the screws.
Yea, but you have to have the nuts on that side, not the head of the screw. The nut alone is too wide and the screws are too long. How did you get around that? I was able to do that for the X-axis, but not the Z
The endstops are cheap. I didn't want to risk snapping the connector off.
Well if you really snap the connector off, then solder a straight connector which makes your life much easier. Or you can just keep using the zipties before you print another z endstop holder.
That's true. Realistically, they should have straight header pins, not that angled connector, but well, flawed design. Especially given that the mount holes are covered by the connector
With the holder that Greg linked earlier, it solves that problem, though. So I'll probably just stick with the zip ties for now and just replace the holder with a better designed one.
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Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build August 22, 2014 01:11AM |
I just built this for the y-axis. Looks pretty slick. [www.thingiverse.com]
I'll install it in a few days when I roll out several other new upgrades.
I'll install it in a few days when I roll out several other new upgrades.
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Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build August 22, 2014 02:10AM |
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underthetire
Ya, a butter knife under it, they bend pretty well.
I may do that later. I'm too excited to get it up and running first. I can tweak after
That's a sweet looking tensioner.
*EDIT* - That tensioner is for the T2.5 belt, not GT2
**************
I'm debating on starting on the belts or hit the rack. This thing has been beating me up. I had to run to Home Depot to get a 1.5mm allen key for the pulley grub screws. Currently staring at this:
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/22/2014 02:13AM by LittleMike.
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Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build August 22, 2014 09:49AM |
I didn't see your comment about the tensioner. Shit. Well, I'm not sure it'll matter that much really, I can probably make it work.
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Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build August 22, 2014 01:34PM |
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gadget_greg
I see your z-axis smooth rods are too long as are your y-axis threaded rods. Perhaps your smooth rods should be switched? I probably wouldn't do it now, but sometime in the future you'll likely do a rebuild (I'm about to) and you might want to switch them around. Until then your y-axis will be a little smaller (not really a big deal unless you plan some big prints right out of the gate).
Okay, so that was easy enough to switch out because the smooth rods are basically "pressure fit" so to speak anyway. I undid the nuts on the threaded rods on all 4 corners and slid the assemblies out to free those smooth rods, and for the Z axis, I just gently worked them out of the corner and pulled them out. Swap, tighten, fixed
So my Z axis ones are basically flush with the frame holders. Is that correct? They are the 320's (the smaller of the two pair).
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Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build August 22, 2014 02:16PM |
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gadget_greg
Hey Bratan, sorry to hear that, that sucks. I wish I could help. I've replaced my Mega/RAMPS once already myself.
Mike, that z-endstop holder is a really poor design, which is only compounded by the poor design of the endstop itself. The only suggestion I have is to figure out a way to rig it up to work for a while (like I did) then as soon as you can print yourself one of these... [www.thingiverse.com]
Greg
No worries, I ordered few from Mouser, should be here tomorrow (I hope). I gotta print me that endstop, gonna be first thing I do after I resurrect my printer
Question to all know might know. Is it bad to short MOSFET's heatsinks between each one? I thought they just connected to the ground. I'm asking because my MOSFET burned out not when I was using hotend, but right after I added alum. heatsink to it. I bent transistor slightly, so I can attach heatsink to it, but it was touching other MOSFET's built in HS.
M8= 5/16", M10=3/8". Here's useful conversion chart. Made me realize that I can probably build whole thing with imperial rodsQuote
gadget_greg
I ended up replacing my upper threaded rod on the back end with a 5/16" (or was it 3/8"?) rod that was a couple inches longer so I could install the z-stabilizer that Tech2C posted earlier in this thread. It works great! [forums.reprap.org]
I also plan to build Z-stabilizer, it could be what's causing my bad print shifts... Is Tech2C's stabilizer same as this one?Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 08/22/2014 02:58PM by Bratan.
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Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build August 23, 2014 12:32AM |
Mike, I've been using the zip ties that came with the kit and some similarly-sized ones from WallyWorld, 100 for $1.29! YMMV.
Bratan, IDK about the MOSFET grounding out but that z-axis stabilizer is similar but Tech2C's is a perfect fit. I printed part of that other one and it didn't line up well for whatever reason. It was easier for me to just use Tech2C's...
Bratan, IDK about the MOSFET grounding out but that z-axis stabilizer is similar but Tech2C's is a perfect fit. I printed part of that other one and it didn't line up well for whatever reason. It was easier for me to just use Tech2C's...
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