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My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build

Posted by Trike 
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Tech2C
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
May 22, 2014 10:01AM
Nice work Allnei. Looking forward to printing as good as yours does grinning smiley
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Allnei
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
May 22, 2014 10:40AM
My prints are not so good as they looks. I have many prints with shifted layers and other defects. I found one problem, if I turn on some hungry device (soldering iron, stove etc.) Y axis start shifting pretty hard.
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Bratan
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
May 22, 2014 12:00PM
Guys, quick question about Replikeo. After you ordered your kit did they send you confirmation e-mail or anything? I ordered mine yesterday and didn't hear anything back, also under my account order history looks empty.
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gadget_greg
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
May 22, 2014 12:05PM
If I recall correctly they emailed a confirmation pretty quickly (within a day) but you can email them directly and inquire, they are very responsive to email.
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Allnei
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
May 22, 2014 12:34PM
First email is your order (almost instantly after your payment), second email (send +- 1 day after first) is "processing" email and after 1-4 working days of lead time you will receive shipping notification and tracking number.

Not so good prints
Hollow cube - pretty good
MAKE robot - pretty good with +-4x 1layer shift in Y axis
3 other things - pretty horrible shifting in Y axis, I think that reason for this, was my lunch that I was cooking in same time.


Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/22/2014 12:35PM by Allnei.
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Trike
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
May 22, 2014 12:46PM
Quote
Allnei
My prints are not so good as they looks. I have many prints with shifted layers and other defects. I found one problem, if I turn on some hungry device (soldering iron, stove etc.) Y axis start shifting pretty hard.

I just read this and think I may have found the answer to my random x alignment issue i've been having. on some prints, the layers would shift a few mm then finish fine from there. Sometimes it would happen 6 layers into the print, sometimes half way through the print.

This started happening about the time I wired in the relay for the heatbed. I'm wondering if the heatbed is drawing too much current at certain times and causes the print to shift.

I really need to get some pics online. In the 2 1/2weeks or so since I built it, I already finished a 1kg spool of PLA already. Lots of calibration and failed prints on that spool.
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Allnei
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
May 22, 2014 12:58PM
Trike, try increase power on your X axis motor (or any other axis with problem) via trimpot on stepstick, 1/8 turn clockwise shout be enough. Watch temperature of motors and if they will be too hot, lower power with anticlockwise turn.

Good tutorial here [bootsindustries.com]
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Trike
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
May 22, 2014 01:39PM
Thanks for the tip. Yeah, I'll give that a try. I had already adjusted all the drivers via a multimeter when I finished building it. Everything was fine until I added the relay for the print bed. I bet having the bed hooked up directly to the power supply is drawing too much current and could be causing a voltage drop to the drivers, hence missed steps and layer shifts..

I will say that printing on the carbon plate has been great. I've only tried PLA so far. I think the reason is because the plate is much more even and flat vs glass. If I could find a piece of glass that's just as even, it would probably print just as good.
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JonT
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
May 22, 2014 06:44PM
Slightly off-topic, but I just watched Tech2C's video and remembered something important during my build.

For Australian customers at least, Replikeo include a two-pin power cord for the power supply. The power supply is in fact designed to have an earth pin which is very important for safety should something break within the power supply.

Rather than use the included cable, I used an old power cable from a PC which had the earth pin.
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Allnei
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
May 22, 2014 06:55PM
JonT: Same for me, Replikeo send me EU cord with 2 pins (we have 2 pins standard without ground pin for low power things, and 3 pin standard with earth pin for power hungry things). Power supply will work without 3rd pin and in "normal" condition it will be ok, but if something fail in power supply there can be electricity on metal case and without 3rd pin it will shock user on contact.

Why is bed level so important? As you can see, on left side of photo is bed levelled pretty well, but there is little problem with bed level on right side. Only right side had problem with sticking.


Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/22/2014 07:09PM by Allnei.
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Trike
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
May 22, 2014 06:58PM
Yeah, I didn't use the included power cable either. I didn't like the idea of not having a ground in case the power supply cooks for some reason. I used a power supply cable and cut off the end.
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Satyco1
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
May 23, 2014 08:04AM
Hey all, I've been following this post for a while and finally created an account. I've ordered an Aluminium prusa i3 from Replikeo on the 15th May shipping to U.K., waiting in customs at the moment. Will keep you updated when I start to build grinning smiley. Thanks all for the updates about your own builds! Going to buy some PLA to starting printing with as you all mention it being easier. Any thing else you would all recommend? I.e. any tools, additional little parts needed for build?
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Allnei
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
May 23, 2014 09:36AM
Just some ordinary tools from any good toolbox aka small screwdriver, tweezers, pliers etc.. Maybe some sanding paper and drills for holes, if they are printed not good.
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chris33
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
May 24, 2014 03:25PM
Quote
Trike
Another weekend update. I could not get the bed to stay leveled consistently with the springs, I could visibly see the bed move when doing really fast/abrupt Y axis direction changes. If I tightened the bed more, the center would start bowing. I needed another solution. I printed out a servo mount to try out the auto bed leveling. That way, I can hard mount the bed and not worry about it changing directions during a print.

When I got it all working correctly, My prints were still off, one side of the bed would leave a good bead, then once it got to the other side, the head wasn't close enough to the bed, leaving a really weak first layer. I think it's because the hotend is shifting inside the extruder. When a retract occurs, the hot end moves a good 5mm to the rear, then resets back to the front. I think this movement is screwing up the prints since the head might not be going back to the same position after the retract. I think i'm going to drill out the extruder body holes to M4 and hope that will keep the hot end secured.

One other note, the m3 screws that holds the extruder idler is too long. They need to be shortened to provide enough pressure on the hob bolt. Otherwise, you'll bottom out the left screw and the right screw will bottom out on the extruder stepper motor, forcing it into the gear. However, that could be a good way to eliminate any backlash in the gears. There isn't enough adjustment to move the stepper motor into the gear to reduce all the backlash. I left that bolt a little longer for this purpose.

Greg,

The roll of ABS I got from Replikeo is black.


you checked the x is perpendicular with the y is one side is slightly out it can give you the same issue as your bed not level

Check my rubbish blog for my prusa i3

up and running
[3dimetech.blogspot.co.uk]
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Allnei
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
May 24, 2014 07:06PM
After some tinkering I found "solution" for problem with temperature of HB. One half of problem is in big passive heatsink aka HB mount. I insulated HB from mount with 6mm cork plate (actually 2x3mm) and i am able reach +-105°C without any other modification. Probably tomorrow i will try change cable - source->RAMPS and RAMPS->HB and I hope for 110°C after this modification.

Also, don´t use method with covering HB, wait till its heat up, uncover and print. This method is not good, because RAMPS don´t have power to hold temperature and you will see pretty big drop (for me without cork 110->88 and stay, with cork 110->98 and slow rise to 105°C). You can use it for fast heat up, but after uncover, you must wait until RAMPS stabilize your temperature.
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gadget_greg
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
May 24, 2014 10:42PM
Good call on the cork and the standoffs acting as heat sinks! Nice job! smiling smiley

I'm hoping this week I'll get my box. On Thursday it'll be 3 weeks since I placed my order.
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Tech2C
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
May 25, 2014 02:32AM
Thanks for the info Allnei. I've installed a 2.7mm peice of plywood underneith the heatbed to insulate it from the bed mount (and air) which seems to speed up the heating process.

Hold out gadget_greg, just when you least expect it it'll turn up winking smiley

Trike, I had the same mosfet overheating issue for the heatbed. I measured 140+ celsius on the front of the mosfet after 1 minute of it being on. The datasheet mentions thermal cutoff at 175 so it's bound to trigger. To alleviate the problem I installed a heatsink with heatsink compound. Now I don't see the mosfet go past 80 cool smiley I had to chop up the heatsink to make it fit in the tiny space that mosfet occupies. I'll show it in the next youtube video.
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Giuss
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
May 25, 2014 03:50AM
Have you payed import duties ordering from EU? How much?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/25/2014 06:14AM by Giuss.
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Allnei
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
May 25, 2014 05:39AM
If by UE you mean EU, then yes. I am from EU and I paid only VAT (21% for my country)
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Tech2C
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
May 25, 2014 08:44AM
Ok, new videos are up - Initial assembly, Final assembly and First print!
Yes I have finally been able to print! More calibration required but I'm very happy so far smileys with beer

Has anyone received a warped PCB Heatbed? Mine has a bow in it causing the entire bed not to sit level. Not sure how I'm going to fix it confused smiley
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Allnei
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
May 25, 2014 08:47AM
Mine is little deformed too. Don´t use bulldogs clips, because they will deform your plate to the shape of Hb. Use kapton tape to fix it instead. Also buy servo, microswitch and print auto bed leveling probe smiling smiley
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Tech2C
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
May 25, 2014 09:11AM
Great idea Allnei!
I'll try that shortly. It also answers my next question of how to print on the full 200mm x 200mm carbon fibre surface when there's bullclips in the way - supurb!
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Allnei
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
May 25, 2014 12:41PM
Ok, after I changed all power wires (supply - ramps, ramps - bed) HB is able reach 100°C in 10minutes without cover, only with 6mm of cork between bed and mount. I used 2.5mm wires (replikeo wires are +-1mm).

Edit: HB is able to stay 105-110°C without cover

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 05/25/2014 01:11PM by Allnei.
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Trike
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
May 25, 2014 03:03PM
I never thought about the bull dog clips causing the pair to warp. I noticed my carbon plate is bowed now compared to when I initially installed it. I noticed this with the auto bed level feature. I can see a topography of the bed.

I also never thought about the carriage acting as a heat sink. Duh... I'm getting some cork to isolate it from the stand offs
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Allnei
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
May 25, 2014 03:46PM
Trike what firmware do you use? Still Marlin?
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Giuss
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
May 26, 2014 07:07AM
Quote
Tech2C
Ok, new videos are up - Initial assembly, Final assembly and First print!
Yes I have finally been able to print! More calibration required but I'm very happy so far smileys with beer

Has anyone received a warped PCB Heatbed? Mine has a bow in it causing the entire bed not to sit level. Not sure how I'm going to fix it confused smiley

The iron frame seems not very stable, or I'm wrong?
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Tech2C
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
May 26, 2014 08:39AM
Quote
Giuss
The iron frame seems not very stable, or I'm wrong?

I've found it to be stable. I haven't seen it oscillate whilst printing so far. What is of concern is because it's anchored to the y carriage at the base only, it tends to want to lean forward as that is where all of the weight is distributed on the iron frame. I'm not sure if the thicker Aluminium or Plexiglass frames suffer the same problem?
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Allnei
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
May 26, 2014 10:39AM
Aluminium (6mm) is stable in Z axis. If you have problem with forward leaning, make sure that your Y corners are not in air (maybe you have twisted Y assembly) and tighten nuts that hold frame and Y assembly. I had problem with my frame, because holes for Y assembly threaded rods were not wide enough.

Today I found one interesting thing. When I print from PC via USB, my prints are not good (shifted layers etc.) but when I print from SD (via LCD that i ordered from Replikeo) prints are much better.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/26/2014 10:47AM by Allnei.
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Trike
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
May 26, 2014 12:29PM
Hrmmm.... I'm going to test that theory out too. I'm using a clone reprap discount full graphics controller. but i've been mainly printing from the usb port.

Also, I'm using Marlin for the firmware with some autobed level code changes to show more info during probing.
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Tech2C
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
May 27, 2014 12:51PM
Replacing the wires from supply->ramps has halved the heatbed heating time for 110 degrees. I had already replaced the ramps->heatbed wires.

Removed the bull dog clips and taped down the carbon fibre with kapton has improved the bed leveling, but it's still not dead flat.

With the calibration of the Filament rate (E axis), I had to change the "DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT" from the Replikeo suggested 600 to 901.3 in Marlin. Has anyone else encountered this? It now extrudes the filament at the correct rate, but the width has increased from 0.4mm to 0.6mm sad smiley
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