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My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build

Posted by Trike 
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Allnei
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
June 10, 2014 02:42PM
I have problem with Z endstop holder too, probably tomorrow I will print some extended version. Wires that I use for my HB are standard copper ~ 2.5mm diameter wires (don´t know what number it is in USA)

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/10/2014 02:43PM by Allnei.
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Bratan
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
June 10, 2014 02:42PM
Thanks Greg and Alnei!
I happen to have a huge piece of 6mm cork, it will work beautifully! I'm just not sure what to do about thermistor, as it's going to be in between heated bed and cork, and will lift HB a little in one spot...
I looked up wire diameter, 2.5mm is around 10 AWG.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/10/2014 02:45PM by Bratan.
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Allnei
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
June 10, 2014 02:50PM
Try my system of HB "stands" with them, you can lift bed higher so thermistor will not have effect on your bed.

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gadget_greg
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
June 10, 2014 11:00PM
No spring load on your HB, eh?

I'm not clear on how you're using the cork. Is it just as an insulator under the HB?

The wire I bought was 12awg. I would have bought 14awg but they didn't have any left.
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Allnei
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
June 11, 2014 04:04AM
There is no need to have springs under your HB. Actually Trike removed them from his build, because HB with springs is not stable enough.
Yes, cork is insulator that insulate HB from mount, because mount is basically big aluminium heatsink that can draw heat from your bed.
12awg wires are sufficient I think. I have my 10g only because I found them home
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2ndalpha
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
June 11, 2014 05:11AM
Quote
Allnei
I have problem with Z endstop holder too, probably tomorrow I will print some extended version. Wires that I use for my HB are standard copper ~ 2.5mm diameter wires (don´t know what number it is in USA)
I'm also planning to print longer Z endstop mount.
I installed E3Dv6 hotend which is longer than jhead. Currently I'm extending endstop mount with library card and zip ties grinning smiley

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/11/2014 06:47AM by 2ndalpha.
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gadget_greg
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
June 11, 2014 01:13PM
I'm going to buy a piece of glass to print on in a few minutes, just to alleviate the slight bow in the heat bed. Is regular glass ok? I can get tempered glass or wood-stove glass (rated to 1400 degrees F) if needed. What thickness glass?

Once I have the glass on the bed I'll rig up something for the Z-endstop. I'll also remove the springs.
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Bratan
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
June 11, 2014 01:32PM
Quote
gadget_greg
I'm going to buy a piece of glass to print on in a few minutes, just to alleviate the slight bow in the heat bed. Is regular glass ok? I can get tempered glass or wood-stove glass (rated to 1400 degrees F) if needed. What thickness glass?

Once I have the glass on the bed I'll rig up something for the Z-endstop. I'll also remove the springs.
From what I understand regular glass can handle HB temperatures, however if it's heated or cooled quickly it can crack. Borosilicate glass is recommended for this.
From wikipedia:
Quote
Borosilicate glass is a type of glass with the main glass-forming constituents silica and boron trioxide. Borosilicate glasses are known for having very low coefficients of thermal expansion (~3 × 10−6 /°C at 20 °C), making them resistant to thermal shock, more so than any other common glass.
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gadget_greg
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
June 11, 2014 01:35PM
Thanks Bratan! Hopefully they have it on stock... smiling smiley
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Allnei
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
June 11, 2014 02:32PM
Today I bought some cheap photo frame with 2mm thick glass, from what I read it should be ok.

Btw guys what kind of springs did you get for your HB? Because I probably found my missing 10grams that package lost during shipping grinning smiley (because I don´t have springs for Hcool smiley
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gadget_greg
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
June 11, 2014 02:44PM
I don't know anything about the springs except that they come in the kit and that they fit nicely over the 3M screws. tongue sticking out smiley

I guess I have to pick up some hair spray too... winking smiley
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Allnei
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
June 11, 2014 02:55PM
You want print directly on glass? I was thinking about carbon plate on glass
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gadget_greg
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
June 11, 2014 02:58PM
I'll try both but my carbon plate has a bow in it too though it'd probably go away once clamped to the glass. Clamped to the curved heatbed it, too, curves. :/
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Trike
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
June 11, 2014 03:33PM
I originally used springs but did not like how the bed didn't stay leveled. I bumped the bed once by accident and I to re-level it. I ended up using standoffs for a solid mount. My CF plate is pretty much useless now. It's really warped now. I'm going to experiment with an aluminum heatbed to see if I can get this damn thing leveled. I'm also hoping to get the E3d hotend installed soon. Life got in the way and I haven't been able to work on the printer for the past couple weeks.
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Allnei
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
June 11, 2014 03:38PM
Why did your carbon plate warped to unusable state? To much heat, aceton or what?
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Bratan
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
June 11, 2014 03:43PM
I've been doing more research on HB. As everyone probably knows PLA/ABS doesn't adhere well to glass so there's a kapton tape or hair spray applied to remedy this. Hair spray sounds just nasty to me, I imagine all the dirt getting trapped, etc. There's also a PET film method, I wonder if anyone tried it?
They sell 4 pieces on ebay for $14. I'm going to try it.
Here's description of this method.
So I'm thinking I'm going to proceede this way:
1. Use cork sheet beneath HB to isolate it from metal base so there's no heat loss.
2. Get Borosilicate Glass and use it on top of HB. This should help uneven PCB.
3. Apply PET film to glass
4. Figure out a way to raise Z-axes stopper (due to added thickness from cork and glass).

I don't see any reason to use springs on HB, unless there's something I don't know...
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Allnei
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
June 11, 2014 03:50PM
Springs are here for easier bed leveling. I advice you to print auto bed level probe+servo mount, buy some cheap servo (6-10USD) and microswitch (I salvaged my from old Logitech G5 mouse grinning smiley) and then you will not have problem with bed level.

You can also use ABS glue (aceton + ABS 1:1) instead of hairspray or PET film. Some ppl also reported better adhesion with sanded glass (sanded with 100grit size sandpaper)
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Trike
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
June 11, 2014 03:57PM
I think it's from too much heat.

If it weren't for the auto bed level. It would have taken me a lot longer to get usable prints. So i'm circling back around now and trying to get the machine mechanically leveled first.
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gadget_greg
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
June 11, 2014 10:10PM
I bought some glass today and I'm trying to level with it now but ever since I uploaded Replikeo's Configuration.h tweaks my z-axis won't home. The z-axis motors try to move then make a buzzing sound and don't move. I'm trying to decrease the z-axis acceleration but each change takes almost 10 minutes to compile and upload using the Raspberry Pi platform as the host.

I bought some hairspray but I was thinking about sanding, or sandblasting...
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Allnei
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
June 12, 2014 06:40AM
You can always use Repetier firmware Greg smiling smiley
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gadget_greg
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
June 12, 2014 10:57AM
There's always time for that. Right now I've got everything working though I'm getting some 'chatter' from the extruder stepper motor. I would've thought that Pronterface would come with a few test cubes but it doesn't. Off to find some... smiling smiley
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gadget_greg
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
June 12, 2014 01:22PM
I'm still getting chatter in my extruder. Everything else is perfect. The volts delivered by the stepper drive appears to be good at 0.80v.

I had pronterface set to 180° for PLA but the gcode is setting it higher, to 190°-ish. That's not too hot, is it?
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Bratan
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
June 12, 2014 02:01PM
Allnei, how is your cork attached to the HB?
I actually found springs provided with Replikeo kit to be very useful in mounting HB.
Can someone post picture of how they organized wires? I have no idea what's the best path for them smiling smiley
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Allnei
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
June 12, 2014 02:15PM
I use clips, that come with kit for secure cork in place.
You can´t find good way how to organize wires, because your Y axis assemble is inverted. You should have motor on other side (It is problem of manual on Reprap wiki, my Y assembly is inverted too grinning smiley). It can be problem, if firmware is not configured right, and your prints can be printed mirrored, best way how to check it is print Z-endstop holder.

Grag i printed PLA@200°C and it was OK.

Right now is biggest problem for me bad hobbed bolt. Don´t know why, but after some time of print bolt start chewing my filament

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 06/12/2014 02:18PM by Allnei.
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Bratan
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
June 12, 2014 03:16PM
Quote
Allnei
I use clips, that come with kit for secure cork in place.
You can´t find good way how to organize wires, because your Y axis assemble is inverted. You should have motor on other side (It is problem of manual on Reprap wiki, my Y assembly is inverted too grinning smiley). It can be problem, if firmware is not configured right, and your prints can be printed mirrored, best way how to check it is print Z-endstop holder.
Aaaahhh holy prusa, I didn't realize it was in reverse! sad smiley Oh man, thank so much for pointing it out. I'm flipping it over, looks like an easy fix (before I guided all wires), I did have to take HB off tho. I basically unbolted it from metal frame and turned 180. Y motor is now on the left side, but I don't think it matters?
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Allnei
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
June 12, 2014 03:48PM
Probably you will need reverse it in FW and set homing towards max endstop (or min, I don´t know where is home point on Prusa i3 grinning smiley)
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Bratan
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
June 12, 2014 05:50PM
Quote
Allnei
Probably you will need reverse it in FW and set homing towards max endstop (or min, I don´t know where is home point on Prusa i3 grinning smiley)
Good point, didn't realize motor will be in reverse. I just moved it to another side, now all should be good.

Guys, completely noob question. I assembled everything, what's next? I'm not new to Arduino, built my own boards, but what's the quickest way to start, I just want to check if all motors are working, and axis moving. Which firmware should I load (Merlin or Sprinter)? I don't have LCD or SD card, so how do I control printer, is there a way to manually move steppers from computer?
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gadget_greg
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
June 12, 2014 05:54PM
Huzzah! Success! I have finally printed two 15mm test cubes!

The first one got off to a shaky start, the extruder was still acting goofy, but I gave it a little assist and it's working fine now! Both my first and second prints are a bit wavy in the x-axis; I guess my belt loosened up a bit. I want to print an x-axis with a built-in tensioner but for now one of these should do the trick... [www.thingiverse.com]
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gadget_greg
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
June 12, 2014 05:58PM
I'm using Marlin and Pronterface (Printrun) and it's pretty easy and works well. I have an LCD-Controller that I used to test everything, but you can easily do it from within Pronterface. One tip I can offer: to test the extruder motor you have to heat the extruder head because it won't let you "cold extrude". Of course you don't need to have filament in it. winking smiley

[github.com]
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Allnei
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build
June 12, 2014 06:07PM
Or you can use Repetier firmware with Repetier Host (great complex program) [www.repetier.com]
Repetier also have great config web app [www.repetier.com] and allows you tweak some things (stepping etc.) "live" via eeprom, without flashing,

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 06/12/2014 06:09PM by Allnei.
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