My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build

I've been meaning to ask, is the eeprom stuff a hardware addon?

Marlin also has some eeprom features and a number of settings can be changed on the fly. Though they don't appear to survive reboot. If you want permanent settings you have to recompile them into Marlin and reupload to RAMPS.

I'm not sure my problem was in the x-axis belt tension after all. My axis inexplicably got a tight spot and I had to lube the rails. This seemed to help but I'm still getting waves in along the x-axis of my prints. :/

Also, during assembly a ball bearing or two fell out of a couple of my linear bearings. Cheap parts?

Please help! Got Marlin fw uploaded (modified config.h as specified on Replikeo site).
Printrun installed, but nothing works right
Z-axis motors sometimes turn in same direction, sometimes in OPPOSITE!
Y-axis motor completely stuck, I can here it's trying to engage but not moving an inch (if I power off I can move Y-axis by hand freely).
X-axis is the only one that appears to be working, but it behaves extremely bizzare when it hits endstop. When it does hit it, it's as if motor gets reversed, it won't move in the opposite direction (says endstop encountered), but will try to move in the same direction when I send command to move other way. Setting "INVERT_X_DIR true" seems to work, with endstop but it moves left instead of right.
And it doesn't respond to every command, sometimes it ignores it (maybe baud rate is not right?).
It's possible I didn't connect motors right, there's no information about wire color code of Replikeo kit (it's different from standard i3)...

I've attached a pic of my printer and my configuration.h and configuration_adv.h files. I don't remember if I changed anything in configuration_adv.h, I don't think so, but I attached it anyway.

As far as the wiring is concerned... when mounted the power and USB are down. Y and both Z's are plugged into their respective steppers green-wire-DOWN. X and E(xtruder) are green-wire-UP.

I have read that if you get the buzzing sound your stepper drivers may need to be adjusted to deliver more voltage. However, my voltages were in-spec so I reduced the max velocity and acceleration of Z and E to eliminate the 'buzz'. You might try the same with your Y, BUT I would check your voltage first! Check here for how to do that (http://reprap.org/wiki/Pololu_stepper_driver_board).

So far I haven't printed anything that has a 'handedness' to it so I don't know if I'm going to get a mirror-image print or not but at least it all works! Everything I've printed so far is symmetrical.

Try out some of this stuff and I'll help if I can.

Good luck!

It looks like I might have my y-axis reversed too if this is any indicator (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:119616). :/
Can I avoid making mirror parts by changing software configs rather than reconfiguring the hardware?

BTW, printing with PLA I'm using just ordinary window glass sprayed with a coat or two of Aquanet hairspray (aerosol type, super extra hold). Initially I was using the typical heatbed temp of 60 but no heat or lower heat seems to work just fine! Extruder temp is 195° (the slic3r default I believe).

Yes, you can configure y-axis (or any other) direction in config file. I also have Yaxis assembly reversed and i just changed direction in config. (make sure, that all your motor connecters are plugged same way)
Bratan, motors can´t be plugged bad, they don´t have polarity, so it doesn´t matter which way they are connected. Just connect all motors same way and then change direction in FW if they will go in reverse.

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 06/13/2014 04:10AM by Allnei.

Hi guy,

I received my Prusa i3 from Replikeo too.

All was very good packed. I asked Replikeo to have PLA instead of ABS, they said OK but I received ABS... and there is no m3 nut in my package....

Currently, I have a problem with my Z axis and X axis. They don't want to move!
The pololu aren't dead, because I can drive the Y or the E with them.
All the jumper are on the RAMPS.
X axis have work before.

I don't understand why Z never work and X doesn't work anymore...

Thanks Greg! I'll give it a try tonight. This morning I quickly connected Y motor to X socket and it still didn't move. So I'm thinking it's either belt too tight (I'll try it without belt) or,motor is dead. Will check voltage too. Btw I had Y motor just like on your picture, but then I switched it to another side. There are no depressions for nuts on other side of Y mount but I don't think it matters, mine screwed in just fine. Also if do this you'll have to move Y motor mount to the left about 1/2" to align belt. Attaching pic.

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 06/13/2014 09:26AM by Bratan.

I'm having a hard time getting this mirror-image thing sorted. :/

Connect all motors same way (green wire of motor should be on power connector side) and then invert Y. Set X and Y home towards Max and Z towards min.

Ps. My repetier config

Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 06/13/2014 09:15PM by Allnei.

I think I figured out my issue. I have 2 bad motors One from Y axis is definitely dead, I took it out and connected separately, it won't move at any current, just buzz and tries to turn. Tried it in different ports (i.e. extruder, X axes, etc.)
Second motor (from Z axes) is a little more weird, it turns but in opposite direction every time (i.e. left, then right, then left, etc.). Adjusting voltage on stepstick didn't help. I also used same stick and leads to test both Z motors (unplug one, connect another) and one works fine, another one alternates. It's also twice as loud as good motor.
Contacting Repliko, hopefully they'll replace these or tell me how to fix it (I doubt it can be fixed tho).

I cannot seem to get it to work properly. Do you guys all have the Y-axis motor and endstop in FRONT (same side as extruder)?

I have motor in FRONT. and motor is on right side.

That sucks Bratan. I'm beginning to think I need to have spare parts around like a motor, an endstop, extra bearings, etc.

My motor is in the back. I think I need to reverse it. :/

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gadget_greg
That sucks Bratan. I'm beginning to think I need to have spare parts around like a motor, an endstop, extra bearings, etc.

My motor is in the back. I think I need to reverse it. :/

I FIXED MY MOTORS! Wow it was just bad crimp job believe it or not. I cut off both connectors and crimped them myself (fortunately I had some pins and 4-pin headers left). Now both motors spinning good!

Greg, I suggest you just move your motor to the right side (flip it). When you do it, you'll need to shift motor mount left to the width of the mount so belt aligns. It's pretty easy to do.

That's great news! One of my Z-motors has a slight hum that I never noticed before...

Is switching the motor going to cure my mirror image problem though?

Actually I was just looking at a pic of your printer and you have the y-motor in front too. I'm printing an adjustable z-endstop holder (that's near symmetrical) first, then I guess I'm swinging my y-axis around and re-leveling...

In my latest pic I have y motor in the back. Sorry I have no idea if switching motor well resolve mirroring, I didn't print anything yet on mine :-)

Once I get this z-endstop holder printed and fitted I'm switching it around. It shouldn't be too bad, I'm starting to get the hang of this thing.

I've got the y-axis turned around the other way but now it seems to want to ignore the endstop. Tired. Going to bed...

Greg if you printed Z-Enstop holder and it is same as original, then your axis are good. Mirrored Z-holder don´t fit on left side of printer, but fit on right side.

The z-endstop that I printed is mirrored, that's why I reversed my y-axis. But now, for some reason, I'm having trouble with the y-endstop not stopping the bed. :/

I am not sure if Marlin can handle endstop on different pin. If you home toward max, FW probably want endstop on right pin (Y-endstop max). In Repetier you can set that your Max Endstop is on Min Endstop pin.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/14/2014 12:40PM by Allnei.

From the Stupid User Tricks Department...

I had the z-endstop wire and the y-endstop wire switched around! I discovered this with the use of the M119 command.

The bed is now re-leveled and I will try another print to see if my mirroring problem is gone.

Quote
Allnei
I am not sure if Marlin can handle endstop on different pin. If you home toward max, FW probably want endstop on right pin (Y-endstop max). In Repetier you can set that your Max Endstop is on Min Endstop pin.

In Marlin pins are defined in the pins.h file.

Hey Trike, do you have a link to that coldend fan shroud you picture in the beginning of this thread? Is that a J-Head?

[turborocco.com]

On the picture is E3D all metal hotend V5 (fan mount is part of this HE)

Ah, thanks Allnei. I was looking at that model on thingiverse (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:114036) but it's not for the J-Head. I'm looking for something similar. There appear to be a lot of nice addons for Greg's Wade Extruder, I might make one of those. It has a nice name too...

I need another advise. My hotend is not heating up at all. Firs of all if I enable temp sensor (#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 1) I get error

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Printer stopped due to errors. Fix the error and use M999 to restart. (Temperature is reset. Set it after restarting)

I have extruder's hotend connected to D10 terminals, but I don't which which polarity since both wires are the same. Does polarity of hotend matter? What am I missing?
I've tried Greg's config file and Replikeo's (which doesn't even compile)..
EDIT: I think my thermistor is not working. I tried heating up hotend with hot air gun, and nothing. Tested thermistor wires with multimeter and no resistance at all, compared with hotbed thermistor which gives 130 kOhm. Gee thanks Replikeo. First crappy job on 3 motor headers now this...

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 06/15/2014 11:21AM by Bratan.

I had problem with thermistor too. But it was only config problem, try use another thermistor settings. If I remember correctly, there are two thermistors with same resistance in config, try another one.
Also, thermistor is installed in hotend without insulation, so it is maybe just short-circuit between thermistor legs. Try untape kapton tape from HE and check it.

Anyway, thermistor is very cheap part (about 0.5USD) so if it is broken, just buy another.

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 06/15/2014 11:27AM by Allnei.

I just realized that the configuration.h file that I uploaded is configured for a Full Graphics LCD Controller. You'll need to comment out this line:

#define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLER

Sorry about that! My config has changed a little since then too...