Folger Prusa i3 Kit from ebay

I purchased the full graphics lcd display from Folgertech, and it comes with the little adapter board, cables, and of course the graphics lcd
yes there is a build in sd slot that is readable from the LCD and you can initiate prints from the SD card as well it's very cool...
please remember to alter your configuration.h file to enable it and also install the additional libraries required for it... check out the thread, compare my recently posted configuration.h file with yours.

Thanks Walter for the quick reply. I'll be placing my order tonight now that I have the information I need. Also where do you buy your filament?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/17/2014 05:01PM by Nlh205.

And now, I continue my saga:

I'm posting these things in the hopes that anyone else that has these problems will see this and not make the same mistakes that I made.

When last I posted I had some motors turning in some directions some of the times and was banging my head as to what was going on. After a weekend of thinking about it (had a lot going on so I couldn't really play/test) I thought I'd take a look at some of the configurations on my laptop to make sure that I had all the right software/libraries/etc. I did, so that wasn't the issue so I went on to thought number 2 which was, maybe there was too much force against the motors for them to work. I couldn't wait to get off of work today and get home and try it and that's when I decided to just check to see if my x-axis was going to move first. Got it to move 10 steps to the left, then another, then about 4 or so and it stopped. Let's try going to the right. Nothing. Pronterface read "echo:endstops hit: X:-49.94" (with miniscule increments in that number as I clicked move right). Let's pop the belt off and see what happens. Reset the printer, reconnect, moves 20 x 10 steps to the right and won't go anymore, then 20 x 10 steps to the left and won't go anymore and repeat, over and over and over. WTH!!

Well some of you may remember my issue with the pulley and the filing I had to do to make it fit. Apparently there's a spot where it still sticks. I'm guessing that this causes enough force back on the belt to make the motor think it can't go anymore and sends that endstop signal back. I decided to check on my z axis and I get roughly the same results. I removed the coupling that holds the screws in place and motors work fine so about the only thing I can guess is that either those motors are not strong enough or my rods aren't perfectly parallel I'm going to take 1/2 the printer apart and start putting it together taking care to make more precise measurements and make sure that everything is as straight and square as possible. I haven't tested my Y axis, but I did have a small tightness issue with that pulley as well, though I think it's been resolved and I cut that belt too short so I wound up having to make that belt super tight (possibly causing added stresses on moving parts) to get it to lock in place (I ordered new belts just for this reason so that will be, at the very least, changed).

If anyone has any suggestions on ways I can make sure that I keep all of the pieces square as I put it back together, I'd really appreciate it.

Can anyone share with where to install the endstops?

I installed them on the bottom of the Z ramps side, when I home Z, it goes...UP instead of down..

The X is on the back of the bed, and it tries to home to the front, and the Y is installed on the right, stepper side, and homes to the left.

Da fuq?

Hello everybody.

So I am getting ready to take the plunge. So far I am getting the kit, the display/controller, and two spools of ABS (one black, one white). Then going to Walmart to find the Garnier hair spray.

Is there anything I am missing?

Also, are there any items that anyone would also purchase as backup items? Bearings/pulleysfans.

I am totally new to the 3d printer scene but am fluent with electronics and using a soldering iron.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/17/2014 07:55PM by jrcaster.

Remember the elcheapo glass from a $4.00 8x10 picture frame.
You may wish to trim it to 8.25" x 8" and small binder clips to hold it down to the heated bed board.
... I think the binder clips are included...

Quote
louspinuso
And now, I continue my saga:

I'm posting these things in the hopes that anyone else that has these problems will see this and not make the same mistakes that I made.

When last I posted I had some motors turning in some directions some of the times and was banging my head as to what was going on. After a weekend of thinking about it (had a lot going on so I couldn't really play/test) I thought I'd take a look at some of the configurations on my laptop to make sure that I had all the right software/libraries/etc. I did, so that wasn't the issue so I went on to thought number 2 which was, maybe there was too much force against the motors for them to work. I couldn't wait to get off of work today and get home and try it and that's when I decided to just check to see if my x-axis was going to move first. Got it to move 10 steps to the left, then another, then about 4 or so and it stopped. Let's try going to the right. Nothing. Pronterface read "echo:endstops hit: X:-49.94" (with miniscule increments in that number as I clicked move right). Let's pop the belt off and see what happens. Reset the printer, reconnect, moves 20 x 10 steps to the right and won't go anymore, then 20 x 10 steps to the left and won't go anymore and repeat, over and over and over. WTH!!

Well some of you may remember my issue with the pulley and the filing I had to do to make it fit. Apparently there's a spot where it still sticks. I'm guessing that this causes enough force back on the belt to make the motor think it can't go anymore and sends that endstop signal back. I decided to check on my z axis and I get roughly the same results. I removed the coupling that holds the screws in place and motors work fine so about the only thing I can guess is that either those motors are not strong enough or my rods aren't perfectly parallel I'm going to take 1/2 the printer apart and start putting it together taking care to make more precise measurements and make sure that everything is as straight and square as possible. I haven't tested my Y axis, but I did have a small tightness issue with that pulley as well, though I think it's been resolved and I cut that belt too short so I wound up having to make that belt super tight (possibly causing added stresses on moving parts) to get it to lock in place (I ordered new belts just for this reason so that will be, at the very least, changed).

If anyone has any suggestions on ways I can make sure that I keep all of the pieces square as I put it back together, I'd really appreciate it.

The endstop signal will not come from the motor due to resistance. The motor will just keep trying to turn and if they can't, you will hear some clicking/grinding sounds from them. The endtop signal you are getting only comes from the endstop pin on your RAMPs. If nothing is connected they will read as endstop triggered in your software. You have to ensure your min-endstops are connected propperly and if you don't have max-endstops (this kit doesn't), they need to be disabled in yout firmware. I had to do this by setting the max pins in the pins.h file to -1. I'm not sure if this is the only/best method, but it worked for me.

Right, good catch. So everything else looks good?

It's on order. I added two 40mm fans, pfte tubing to run the filament through, and two fittings for the ends.

Now to sit back and wait.

Also time to find all the software that everyone is using, and revisions, so i guess it back to the beginning of this thread for me.

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zorg1179

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louspinuso
And now, I continue my saga:

I'm posting these things in the hopes that anyone else that has these problems will see this and not make the same mistakes that I made.

When last I posted I had some motors turning in some directions some of the times and was banging my head as to what was going on. After a weekend of thinking about it (had a lot going on so I couldn't really play/test) I thought I'd take a look at some of the configurations on my laptop to make sure that I had all the right software/libraries/etc. I did, so that wasn't the issue so I went on to thought number 2 which was, maybe there was too much force against the motors for them to work. I couldn't wait to get off of work today and get home and try it and that's when I decided to just check to see if my x-axis was going to move first. Got it to move 10 steps to the left, then another, then about 4 or so and it stopped. Let's try going to the right. Nothing. Pronterface read "echo:endstops hit: X:-49.94" (with miniscule increments in that number as I clicked move right). Let's pop the belt off and see what happens. Reset the printer, reconnect, moves 20 x 10 steps to the right and won't go anymore, then 20 x 10 steps to the left and won't go anymore and repeat, over and over and over. WTH!!

Well some of you may remember my issue with the pulley and the filing I had to do to make it fit. Apparently there's a spot where it still sticks. I'm guessing that this causes enough force back on the belt to make the motor think it can't go anymore and sends that endstop signal back. I decided to check on my z axis and I get roughly the same results. I removed the coupling that holds the screws in place and motors work fine so about the only thing I can guess is that either those motors are not strong enough or my rods aren't perfectly parallel I'm going to take 1/2 the printer apart and start putting it together taking care to make more precise measurements and make sure that everything is as straight and square as possible. I haven't tested my Y axis, but I did have a small tightness issue with that pulley as well, though I think it's been resolved and I cut that belt too short so I wound up having to make that belt super tight (possibly causing added stresses on moving parts) to get it to lock in place (I ordered new belts just for this reason so that will be, at the very least, changed).

If anyone has any suggestions on ways I can make sure that I keep all of the pieces square as I put it back together, I'd really appreciate it.

The endstop signal will not come from the motor due to resistance. The motor will just keep trying to turn and if they can't, you will hear some clicking/grinding sounds from them. The endtop signal you are getting only comes from the endstop pin on your RAMPs. If nothing is connected they will read as endstop triggered in your software. You have to ensure your min-endstops are connected propperly and if you don't have max-endstops (this kit doesn't), they need to be disabled in yout firmware. I had to do this by setting the max pins in the pins.h file to -1. I'm not sure if this is the only/best method, but it worked for me.

Ok, so looking at the pins.h file, I assume this is the section you're referring to:

#define X_STEP_PIN         28
#define X_DIR_PIN          63
#define X_ENABLE_PIN       29
#define X_MIN_PIN          47
#define X_MAX_PIN          -1   //2 //Max endstops default to disabled "-1", set to commented value to enable.

#define Y_STEP_PIN         14 // A6
#define Y_DIR_PIN          15 // A0
#define Y_ENABLE_PIN       39
#define Y_MIN_PIN          48
#define Y_MAX_PIN          -1   //15

#define Z_STEP_PIN         31 // A2
#define Z_DIR_PIN          32 // A6
#define Z_ENABLE_PIN       30 // A1
#define Z_MIN_PIN          49
#define Z_MAX_PIN          -1

Thos already seem to be set to -1 so that doesn't seem to be the issue. Actually it seems that the issue is even more bizarre than what I originally thought. I tested x again and I saw it again would only move in one direction, x negative direction in Pronterface (counter clockwise). I could spin it (with the power off) freely with my hand but I can't seem to get it to work in both directions using pronterface. Next test, power everything off, flip connector see if this only works in the x positive direction (what I would expect). Power everything back on and.... I can only move the motor in the x negative direction (motor is spinning in the clockwise direction now) again. Power everything off and try swapping a stepper driver. Test everything exactly the same way and again, I can only move the X in the X negative direction. I'm starting to think I've either got a bad ramps board or a bad Arduino board. Anyone else have any additional ideas?

I think I might be an idiot.

No, really.

Apparently, at least for me, if you don't hit "home" (and make sure your stops are accessible or in the right places) the software thinks that the head is home against all it's stops and doesn't seem to send an actual signal to continue going in that direction. Stupid me found this out the hard way and now all my axis work, except... is Y positive supposed to go towards the back? If it is then I just have to flip that cord over and I should be ready to start test printing really soon.

Ok, so I was giving some thought to my question above and I'm starting to think that Y negative should be moving the bed towards the back if X negative moves the bed to the left, based on a standard Cartesian plane. Which means that when the bed is all the way forward, the endstop at the front should be the max endstop (setting the back right corner of the bed as 0,0,0) and then the position of Y decreases as it goes further back (moving the head into a more negative plotted number). Does this make sense? Or am I getting 2am delirious again?

Quote
louspinuso
Ok, so I was giving some thought to my question above and I'm starting to think that Y negative should be moving the bed towards the back if X negative moves the bed to the left, based on a standard Cartesian plane. Which means that when the bed is all the way forward, the endstop at the front should be the max endstop (setting the back right corner of the bed as 0,0,0) and then the position of Y decreases as it goes further back (moving the head into a more negative plotted number). Does this make sense? Or am I getting 2am delirious again?

Nope, you're absolutely right. Y neg should go back, Y pos to the front.
X pos to the right, X neg to the left, and Z pos up, Z neg down.

If one is going the opposite way, just flip the connection on your ramps.

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 11/18/2014 07:20AM by Gannicus.

Quote
Gannicus
Nope, you're absolutely right. Y neg should go back, Y pos to the front.
X pos to the right, X neg to the left, and Z pos up, Z neg down.

If one is going the opposite way, just flip the connection on your ramps.

Right, so that all seems good so my next question is where do you have your y end stop, front or back? And is it set as a min or max end stop?

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louspinuso

Quote
Gannicus
Nope, you're absolutely right. Y neg should go back, Y pos to the front.
X pos to the right, X neg to the left, and Z pos up, Z neg down.

If one is going the opposite way, just flip the connection on your ramps.

Right, so that all seems good so my next question is where do you have your y end stop, front or back? And is it set as a min or max end stop?

This is where I've run into my roadblock. LOL

I have my Y endstop on the back. Set to Min in code, and on the ramps pins. Works correctly, however it wasn't yesterday. I changed it to MAX in the code, and on the pins. At that point, it stopped working entirely. Switched it all back, and now works correctly. Go figure right???

My X and Z don't work...AT ALL. Except with the M119 test code in Pronterface.

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Gannicus

Quote
louspinuso

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Gannicus
Nope, you're absolutely right. Y neg should go back, Y pos to the front.
X pos to the right, X neg to the left, and Z pos up, Z neg down.

If one is going the opposite way, just flip the connection on your ramps.

Right, so that all seems good so my next question is where do you have your y end stop, front or back? And is it set as a min or max end stop?

This is where I've run into my roadblock. LOL

I have my Y endstop on the back. Set to Min in code, and on the ramps pins. Works correctly, however it wasn't yesterday. I changed it to MAX in the code, and on the pins. At that point, it stopped working entirely. Switched it all back, and now works correctly. Go figure right???

My X and Z don't work...AT ALL. Except with the M119 test code in Pronterface.

This is the sort of stuff that makes me crazy, but I'll get through it. One final question and I'll probably be doing a test print either tomorrow or late tonight:

I've seen configuration.h files with

#define INVERT_E0_DIR false   // for direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to false

and

#define INVERT_E0_DIR true  // for direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to false

As a matter of fact the Waltermixx configuration.h on page 11 of this thread has it set to false, but this kit comes with a direct drive extruder so I'm not sure if that should be set to true. I don't think that Waltermixx has a geared extruder (at least not from the pictures in his flickr album) but I want to make sure I don't need to set that to true for this extruder before I start test printing.

Thanks for all the help.

Once I have this up and running (hopefully before Saturday) I plan on going through an writing up a lengthy duscussion of my thoughts, reviews and pitfalls I've faced (and read others have faced) so that anyone who gets the kit after (hopefully) Saturday can have a shortcut to getting things setup with less trouble than I had.

As Gannicus posted - for the Y end stop, if it's at the back it's a MIN, if at the front it's a MAX. You need to change the firmware and the position on the RAMPS to suit.
Same with X, if it's on the left it's a MIN, on the right a MAX

Steve

---

My updated Instructable on our Prusa i3 Build
[www.instructables.com]

Quote
SteveRoy
As Gannicus posted - for the Y end stop, if it's at the back it's a MIN, if at the front it's a MAX. You need to change the firmware and the position on the RAMPS to suit.
Same with X, if it's on the left it's a MIN, on the right a MAX

Steve

So Steve...How then if I have my X on the right, and change the code in config.h to 1( MAX rather than -1 MIN ) and move the ramps connector to the X MAX pinout does my home stop working?

Matter of fact, going further than that, which is the more pressing issue...How in the world do my endstops not work at stopping the movement when I press them, regardless of their configuration in the code and on the ramps board? Testing them with the M119 command yields open, and when I close it, another M119 command yields triggered.

Which means I know the hardware and software are working properly, the steppers just will NOT stop when their corresponding switch is triggered?

Has anyone had an issue with the linear bearings not moving freely?

As I am building the base and put the linear bearings on the long smooth rods, I find that the bearings wont freely slide on one rod. They grab and it feels like they are binding. I took those bearings off of that rod and put them on the rod on the other side and they move smoothly. I put a micrometer on the rod that inds and find that the rod is a thousandth larger in diameter. I would not think that would make a difference but it does. I've contacted folgertech yesterday via email and through ebay and asked for it to be replaced but have heard nothing back yet.

Has anyone else experienced this? Am I nuts or doing something wrong? I tried the bearings on all of the other smooth rods and they work fine. Just that one has issues.

I also had an issue with the provided m3 nuts being too tall verticly to fit into the slots. And yes, I tried to insert them from bothe sides. I ended up breaking one of the pieces of acrylic trying to force one in. I ended up holding them with pliers and "thinning" them on the belt sander. Maybe he changed sources for hardware and the specs are a bit off?

This is my first 3D printer ever and when I started to watch the build videos I figured I'd do my own that would have better quality as to help out others but I'm at a standstill until I can get the rod thing resolved.

Quote
mikez104
Has anyone had an issue with the linear bearings not moving freely?

As I am building the base and put the linear bearings on the long smooth rods, I find that the bearings wont freely slide on one rod. They grab and it feels like they are binding. I took those bearings off of that rod and put them on the rod on the other side and they move smoothly. I put a micrometer on the rod that inds and find that the rod is a thousandth larger in diameter. I would not think that would make a difference but it does. I've contacted folgertech yesterday via email and through ebay and asked for it to be replaced but have heard nothing back yet.

Has anyone else experienced this? Am I nuts or doing something wrong? I tried the bearings on all of the other smooth rods and they work fine. Just that one has issues.

I also had an issue with the provided m3 nuts being too tall verticly to fit into the slots. And yes, I tried to insert them from bothe sides. I ended up breaking one of the pieces of acrylic trying to force one in. I ended up holding them with pliers and "thinning" them on the belt sander. Maybe he changed sources for hardware and the specs are a bit off?

This is my first 3D printer ever and when I started to watch the build videos I figured I'd do my own that would have better quality as to help out others but I'm at a standstill until I can get the rod thing resolved.

I've not had the problem with the bearings feeling snug at all. Have you tried a different bearing on that rod (I know they send a couple of extras)?. As for the nuts, I found that some were snug and you have to put them in from the right side (the other side is way too tight) but most importantly, if you don't slide them in just right (the top and bottom completely flat and level with the grooves in the acrylic) you'll fight to get them in at all.

As other's have stated, 3dprinterczar has some more complete instructions on their site for a Prusa i3. It was a little late for me to find them. Good luck on your build

Quote
SteveRoy
As Gannicus posted - for the Y end stop, if it's at the back it's a MIN, if at the front it's a MAX. You need to change the firmware and the position on the RAMPS to suit.
Same with X, if it's on the left it's a MIN, on the right a MAX

Steve

See, this is what's blowing my mind. The X endstop is on the right but it's in the MIN position. I think that the more I look at this, what's really going on is that the printer is just moving to whatever direction it thinks home is stopping when it hits the endstop and then this is taking over:

#define min_software_endstops true // If true, axis won't move to coordinates less than HOME_POS.
#define max_software_endstops true  // If true, axis won't move to coordinates greater than the defined lengths below.

Which is what I think was messing with my ability to move the motors in both directions until it forced an endstop touch on the home position and then it was like "Oh, you have plenty of space to go in this direction" and allowed me to go. I really believe this was the source of the endstop errors I was getting ("echo:endstops hit: X:-49.94").

And still the HOME_DIR for all of my axis are set to -1

// ENDSTOP SETTINGS:
// Sets direction of endstops when homing; 1=MAX, -1=MIN
#define X_HOME_DIR -1
#define Y_HOME_DIR -1
#define Z_HOME_DIR -1

which should indicate that the motors should move to the opposite of where I would expect them to go (except for Z) but they don't. I almost feel like I need to drag myself through the code for Marlin to figure out what the thing is doing but I think just flipping my y axis plug will actually make this work how I want, as opposed to switching the line:

#define INVERT_Y_DIR false   // for Mendel set to true, for Orca set to false

to true, though that may cause even more trouble for me.

Does anyone know why I'm getting this REALLY high pitched whistle when my Z axis stops moving?

It's REALLY loud.

If I turn "Motors Off" the sound goes away immediately.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/18/2014 05:10PM by Gannicus.

You will need to adjust the Vref for the Z-axis, i got that as well until i adjusted the little pot, and measured the Vref. Make sure you use a volt meter.

Hope this helps...

Thanks Walter. One last question. I got everything working. But only one hole on the top of the extruder allows me to feed in the filament. The one on the left just comes out the bottom of the hotend.

The one on the right, which is over the actual hotend nozzle will not go through into the hot end.

??

Make sure the extruded is up to the correct temperature first using
Either the lad screen or repetier host, also make sure you extruded fan is turned on.
Once you get it up to temp you can load the filament and then use repetier host to extrude about 10mm

Hope this helps? The plastic will not go through unless the extruded is hot.

Quote
louspinuso


I've not had the problem with the bearings feeling snug at all. Have you tried a different bearing on that rod (I know they send a couple of extras)?. As for the nuts, I found that some were snug and you have to put them in from the right side (the other side is way too tight) but most importantly, if you don't slide them in just right (the top and bottom completely flat and level with the grooves in the acrylic) you'll fight to get them in at all.

As other's have stated, 3dprinterczar has some more complete instructions on their site for a Prusa i3. It was a little late for me to find them. Good luck on your build

You know, I didn't think of trying all the linear bearings. Sure enough, I went home and emptied out the other bags and tried them one by one and found a set that work pretty well. Thanks for that. I just assumed they were all exactly the same. Well my build is back on. As for the nuts, I tried them every way I could and they just would not fit. I know what you mean by having them just right because that is how I had to have them to get them started. Back to the basement to build.

Quote
Waltermixx
Make sure the extruded is up to the correct temperature first using
Either the lad screen or repetier host, also make sure you extruded fan is turned on.
Once you get it up to temp you can load the filament and then use repetier host to extrude about 10mm

Hope this helps? The plastic will not go through unless the extruded is hot.

Extruder is hot. I put in the test piece of abs, using pronterface...temps are up. Extrude 10mm, and I can feel it pull in, than just does nothing. Nothing comes out. Reverse it out, and the filament has
notches in it from the extruder, but it's not melting and coming out. Smells like stuff is melting/burning.

Even made the change to #define INVERT_E0_DIR from false to true like the post on the first page noted.

Not sure what I'm doing wrong

I use extrude and it feeds it into the hot end...but when I try to print a test cube, the printer goes through the entire process, just does not extrude.

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 11/18/2014 08:28PM by Gannicus.

Keep going. Do 100mm. It has to come out eventually.

Quote
Waltermixx
Keep going. Do 100mm. It has to come out eventually.

It doesn't. It gets to a point where it just like...skips on itself, and stops feeding it into the hot end.

Quote
Gannicus

Quote
Waltermixx
Keep going. Do 100mm. It has to come out eventually.

It doesn't. It gets to a point where it just like...skips on itself, and stops feeding it into the hot end.

Have you checked the vref on the extruder motor? How about pushing the filament gently while feeding?

Mind you I haven't even started trying to feed filament yet so there is that.