Folger Prusa i3 Kit from ebay

Hi cold front and jjbunn, after repeat test here is what I found, I follow previous post, I connected the power to the hot bed, on P1, 12V positive goes to pin 1, negative goes to p2 and pin3. this is when the shut down happens. If I connect the nagetive to either pin2 or pin3, it doesn't shut down but only half of the bed is heated. Also another strange thing is when the negative connected to pin2, a LED comes on, but when connects to pin3, no LED at all.

Is there something in the Configuration.h needs to be tweak? Also my power source is an ATX PSU, it's rated 12V 20A output, that should be sufficient to power the entire hot bed, am I correct?

Oh I forgot to mention, I did get the positive on pin1, nagetive on pin2 and pin 3 to work like once or twice.

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 12/12/2014 11:41PM by rich1812.

Quote
rich1812
Hi cold front and jjbunn, after repeat test here is what I found, I follow previous post, I connected the power to the hot bed, on P1, 12V positive goes to pin 1, negative goes to p2 and pin3. this is when the shut down happens. If I connect the nagetive to either pin2 or pin3, it doesn't shut down but only half of the bed is heated. Also another strange thing is when the negative connected to pin2, a LED comes on, but when connects to pin3, no LED at all.

Is there something in the Configuration.h needs to be tweak? Also my power source is an ATX PSU, it's rated 12V 20A output, that should be sufficient to power the entire hot bed, am I correct?

Oh I forgot to mention, I did get the positive on pin1, nagetive on pin2 and pin 3 to work like once or twice.

Perhaps you have a faulty heatbed? What is the resistance between pin3 and pin1? It should be the same as between pin2 and pin1. A multimeter would be handy :-) I'm wondering if you have a dead short between pin3 and pin1 ...

I don't think this is a problem with the configuration.h file parameters.

Endstop issue.

Background: Green wire is facing outward on ramps. Physical locations: X=left stop, Y=back stop, Z=bottom stop. Stock Folger tech firmware/configuration.h besides whats shown below.

I can manually go one direction via pronterface but cannot go the other direction. This is with:
const bool X_ENDSTOPS_INVERTING = true; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstops.
const bool Y_ENDSTOPS_INVERTING = true; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstops.
const bool Z_ENDSTOPS_INVERTING = true; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstops.

I can manually go one direction via pronterface when end stop is not depressed. When end stop is pressed, I can go both directions!
const bool X_ENDSTOPS_INVERTING = false; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstops.
const bool Y_ENDSTOPS_INVERTING = false; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstops.
const bool Z_ENDSTOPS_INVERTING = false; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstops.

how do I get these endstops to be actual end stops!?
I just want to print a cube

#define INVERT_X_DIR true    // for Mendel set to false, for Orca set to true
#define INVERT_Y_DIR false    // for Mendel set to true, for Orca set to false
#define INVERT_Z_DIR false     // for Mendel set to false, for Orca set to true
#define INVERT_E0_DIR false   // for direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to false
#define INVERT_E1_DIR false    // for direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to false
#define INVERT_E2_DIR false   // for direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to false

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/13/2014 03:19AM by BayAreaRepRap.

Quote
BayAreaRepRap
Anyone use any LM8uu linear bearing alternatives? The ones included lose balls like crazy and are the crunchiest bearings I've ever seen. I'm thinking of getting some 8mm bronze bushings.

My choice : Igus RJMP-01-08 . You can also find good quality regular linear bearings : [www.ebay.com]

---

Collective intelligence emerges when a group of people work together effectively. Prusa i3 Folger (A lot of the parts are wrong, boring !)

Hi jjbunn,

I checked the bed, the resistance between pin 1 and 2, as well as pin 1 and 3 are very low but consistence, so there is nothing wrong with the bed.

This morning I got up the first thing I did was to re-wire the negative to pin 2 and 3, reloaded the firmware. Magically, IT WAORKS!!!!

May but the printer needs a good night of sleep too.

Now perhaps the last question, I tried a test print of a small object, the filament came out, but it came of as a brup of modem art.(Pic morden art.jpg)

Why doesn't it stick to the glass?

Richard

Looks like you need to get closer to the build plate.
you should also use hairspray as an adhesive.

make sure you properly level your build plate, it will take a while to get the hang of it,
dont get discuraged... but you will have to make a bit of an effort... and once you sort it out,
it will take less and less time to do it before you print...

also, make sure you level the build plate while everything is hot... as it will make a difference.

Quote
rich1812
Hi jjbunn,

I checked the bed, the resistance between pin 1 and 2, as well as pin 1 and 3 are very low but consistence, so there is nothing wrong with the bed.

This morning I got up the first thing I did was to re-wire the negative to pin 2 and 3, reloaded the firmware. Magically, IT WAORKS!!!!

May but the printer needs a good night of sleep too.

Now perhaps the last question, I tried a test print of a small object, the filament came out, but it came of as a brup of modem art.(Pic morden art.jpg)

Why doesn't it stick to the glass?

Richard

Check your bed height, make sure your your bed is up to temperature and use some hair spray on your bed. Someone earlier, I think waltermixx, suggested Garnier fructis. I use the ultra strong green can. Works great. Check that bed height first.

Quote
BayAreaRepRap
Endstop issue.

Background: Green wire is facing outward on ramps. Physical locations: X=left stop, Y=back stop, Z=bottom stop. Stock Folger tech firmware/configuration.h besides whats shown below.

I can manually go one direction via pronterface but cannot go the other direction. This is with:
const bool X_ENDSTOPS_INVERTING = true; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstops.
const bool Y_ENDSTOPS_INVERTING = true; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstops.
const bool Z_ENDSTOPS_INVERTING = true; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstops.

I can manually go one direction via pronterface when end stop is not depressed. When end stop is pressed, I can go both directions!
const bool X_ENDSTOPS_INVERTING = false; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstops.
const bool Y_ENDSTOPS_INVERTING = false; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstops.
const bool Z_ENDSTOPS_INVERTING = false; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstops.

how do I get these endstops to be actual end stops!?
I just want to print a cube

#define INVERT_X_DIR true    // for Mendel set to false, for Orca set to true
#define INVERT_Y_DIR false    // for Mendel set to true, for Orca set to false
#define INVERT_Z_DIR false     // for Mendel set to false, for Orca set to true
#define INVERT_E0_DIR false   // for direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to false
#define INVERT_E1_DIR false    // for direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to false
#define INVERT_E2_DIR false   // for direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to false

I had some strange issues like reverse printing and such. Here are my settings in config.h and a photo of my end stop jumpers. Hope this helps. Also, remember to home all axis.

const bool X_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = true; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
const bool Y_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = true; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
const bool Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = true; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
const bool X_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = true; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
const bool Y_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = true; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
const bool Z_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = true; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.

#define INVERT_X_DIR false
#define INVERT_Y_DIR true
#define INVERT_Z_DIR true
#define INVERT_E0_DIR true
#define INVERT_E1_DIR false
#define INVERT_E2_DIR false

// ENDSTOP SETTINGS:
// Sets direction of endstops when homing; 1=MAX, -1=MIN
#define X_HOME_DIR 1
#define Y_HOME_DIR -1
#define Z_HOME_DIR -1



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/13/2014 10:00AM by mikez104.

Quote
Waltermixx
Looks like you need to get closer to the build plate.
you should also use hairspray as an adhesive.

make sure you properly level your build plate, it will take a while to get the hang of it,
dont get discuraged... but you will have to make a bit of an effort... and once you sort it out,
it will take less and less time to do it before you print...

also, make sure you level the build plate while everything is hot... as it will make a difference.

Looks like we were typing at the same time. Great point about leveling while it's hot. That bit me several times.

Waltermixx, just wanted to give you a big THANKS! for starting this thread. Without it, I don't think I'd be printing with this printer and would probably just bought a pre made printer like the XYZ or something as my first printer. I'm glad I went down this road. I've learned so much.

YAY!!!! my first sea trial!!!.

I am wondering why it stops printing because "cold extrusion prevented" so soon.(Please see print_log121314.txt)Is it supposed to be that way?

So very excited!!!

Received my kit now to start
Two dumb questions.
Is there a master parts list or just the list on ebay? (Want to make sure I have all the parts)
What is the best instruction on how to assemble it.

Quote
mikez104
Waltermixx, just wanted to give you a big THANKS! for starting this thread. Without it, I don't think I'd be printing with this printer and would probably just bought a pre made printer like the XYZ or something as my first printer. I'm glad I went down this road. I've learned so much.

I learned a ton from this thread as well, and I have to give Dooms101 a lot of credit, I googled Folger Prusa i3 and found his initial inquiry thread on this forum, so then I decided to to start my thread chronicling my build as I knew I would have a hole bunch of questions... Chances are it too would end up in a search result for those folks who also took a chance and purchased one.... I too thanked Dooms and a few others earlier in this thread... and besides this thread would not be so cool without the participation of all those who contributed. so Thank you's guys...(as i like to say)...

ok carry on....

my kit had a check list of parts taped to the inside of the box lid flaps...
things were checked off the list as the boxes where filled with parts...
my kit was missing all printed plastic parts, (so I printed my own from the stl files Folger Tech provided)
while I waited for them to send me parts, which they did right away

I ended up using my parts because they were a very cool orange...

so dont throw that box away, look for that packing list...
plus the ebay listing includes a list of parts as well.

hope this helps?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/13/2014 11:13AM by Waltermixx.

Quote
Waltermixx
Thank you's guys...(as i like to say)...

I know you mentioned somewhere earlier in this past that you are in Canada(I think) but that is a distinctly NY phrase that I grew up saying. Lol.

Thanks to everyone who has continued this thread. I still check in from time to time and try to reply to some posts when in front of my PC.

Quote
BayAreaRepRap
Endstop issue.

Background: Green wire is facing outward on ramps. Physical locations: X=left stop, Y=back stop, Z=bottom stop. Stock Folger tech firmware/configuration.h besides whats shown below.

I can manually go one direction via pronterface but cannot go the other direction. This is with:
const bool X_ENDSTOPS_INVERTING = true; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstops.
const bool Y_ENDSTOPS_INVERTING = true; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstops.
const bool Z_ENDSTOPS_INVERTING = true; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstops.

I can manually go one direction via pronterface when end stop is not depressed. When end stop is pressed, I can go both directions!
const bool X_ENDSTOPS_INVERTING = false; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstops.
const bool Y_ENDSTOPS_INVERTING = false; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstops.
const bool Z_ENDSTOPS_INVERTING = false; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstops.

how do I get these endstops to be actual end stops!?
I just want to print a cube

#define INVERT_X_DIR true    // for Mendel set to false, for Orca set to true
#define INVERT_Y_DIR false    // for Mendel set to true, for Orca set to false
#define INVERT_Z_DIR false     // for Mendel set to false, for Orca set to true
#define INVERT_E0_DIR false   // for direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to false
#define INVERT_E1_DIR false    // for direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to false
#define INVERT_E2_DIR false   // for direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to false

Send an M119 to the printer to find the status of the end stops and/or use a multimeter across the pins.
The:
const bool X_ENDSTOPS_INVERTING = true; (or false) sets in the firmware whether the switch is NO ir NC (normally open or closed)

You also need to set:
#define X_HOME_DIR (and Y and Z) as MIN or MAX
X stop on left side is a MIN, Y at back is a MIN and Z is MIN
There are also MIN and MAX jumpers on the RAMPS where the wires from the switch plus into

Steve

---

My updated Instructable on our Prusa i3 Build
[www.instructables.com]

Quote
ron22
Received my kit now to start
Two dumb questions.
Is there a master parts list or just the list on ebay? (Want to make sure I have all the parts)
What is the best instruction on how to assemble it.

I couldn't find a list of parts, other than what's listed on ebay. As for the instructions:

Prusa i3 3D Printer

Quote
Johnny01

Quote
ron22
Received my kit now to start
Two dumb questions.
Is there a master parts list or just the list on ebay? (Want to make sure I have all the parts)
What is the best instruction on how to assemble it.

I couldn't find a list of parts, other than what's listed on ebay. As for the instructions:

Prusa i3 3D Printer

Glad to see my Instructable is proving useful for i3 builds.
I have been meaning to do a "Part II" - calibration and tuning.

Steve

---

My updated Instructable on our Prusa i3 Build
[www.instructables.com]

Quote
Waltermixx
my kit had a check list of parts taped to the inside of the box lid flaps...
things were checked off the list as the boxes where filled with parts...
my kit was missing all printed plastic parts, (so I printed my own from the stl files Folger Tech provided)
while I waited for them to send me parts, which they did right away

I ended up using my parts because they were a very cool orange...

so dont throw that box away, look for that packing list...
plus the ebay listing includes a list of parts as well.

hope this helps?

I have the list on the box but all the items are crossed out with a marker so I can not read them.
There is also a list on most of the bagged items. But that will not tell me if there is a bag missing.
I will compare based on ebay list and then hopefully start building

Quote
SteveRoy

Quote
BayAreaRepRap
Endstop issue.

Background: Green wire is facing outward on ramps. Physical locations: X=left stop, Y=back stop, Z=bottom stop. Stock Folger tech firmware/configuration.h besides whats shown below.

I can manually go one direction via pronterface but cannot go the other direction. This is with:
const bool X_ENDSTOPS_INVERTING = true; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstops.
const bool Y_ENDSTOPS_INVERTING = true; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstops.
const bool Z_ENDSTOPS_INVERTING = true; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstops.

I can manually go one direction via pronterface when end stop is not depressed. When end stop is pressed, I can go both directions!
const bool X_ENDSTOPS_INVERTING = false; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstops.
const bool Y_ENDSTOPS_INVERTING = false; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstops.
const bool Z_ENDSTOPS_INVERTING = false; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstops.

how do I get these endstops to be actual end stops!?
I just want to print a cube

#define INVERT_X_DIR true    // for Mendel set to false, for Orca set to true
#define INVERT_Y_DIR false    // for Mendel set to true, for Orca set to false
#define INVERT_Z_DIR false     // for Mendel set to false, for Orca set to true
#define INVERT_E0_DIR false   // for direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to false
#define INVERT_E1_DIR false    // for direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to false
#define INVERT_E2_DIR false   // for direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to false

Send an M119 to the printer to find the status of the end stops and/or use a multimeter across the pins.
The:
const bool X_ENDSTOPS_INVERTING = true; (or false) sets in the firmware whether the switch is NO ir NC (normally open or closed)

You also need to set:
#define X_HOME_DIR (and Y and Z) as MIN or MAX
X stop on left side is a MIN, Y at back is a MIN and Z is MIN
There are also MIN and MAX jumpers on the RAMPS where the wires from the switch plus into

Steve

Thanks Steve. I think I figured it out. I set all the endstops to MINS, verified all the jumpers are in, and had to take the "//" off of the #define DISABLE_MAX_ENDSTOPS line. Everything works now and the endstops stop!

Now have to do all the calibrations and I think I'll print a cube today!!

AAAAAAAAAAH! It's baaaaaaaack!

This is driving me crazy!

After working for like 15 minutes, the problem comes back.

I isolated the problem by connect the 12V negative to Pin2 alone, then pin3 alone, in both cases it works fine, so it confirmed that the bed is good. Correct?

The only two possible causes I can think of now is 1.) Is there something I need to tweak in the Configuration.h? 2.) I use an ATX PSU, the 12V output is rated 12V 20A, Is 20A not enough to power the bed?

Hey everyone, getting close with my folger kit and have a quick, possibly repeat, question. The thermistor for the heat bed, was there supposed to be one with the kit? Other than some 3m hardware it's the only thing I can find missing in my kit.

Quote
Jamus
Hey everyone, getting close with my folger kit and have a quick, possibly repeat, question. The thermistor for the heat bed, was there supposed to be one with the kit? Other than some 3m hardware it's the only thing I can find missing in my kit.

The thermostat is on the heatbed already you just have to solder two wires to the small pads on the board doesn't matter which way it goes.

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 12/13/2014 10:53PM by coldfront.

Yeah I think trying a bigger psu might work out better I think the one folger sends it 30amps I believe I will have to check.

Quote
rich1812
AAAAAAAAAAH! It's baaaaaaaack!

This is driving me crazy!

After working for like 15 minutes, the problem comes back.

I isolated the problem by connect the 12V negative to Pin2 alone, then pin3 alone, in both cases it works fine, so it confirmed that the bed is good. Correct?

The only two possible causes I can think of now is 1.) Is there something I need to tweak in the Configuration.h? 2.) I use an ATX PSU, the 12V output is rated 12V 20A, Is 20A not enough to power the bed?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/13/2014 10:44PM by coldfront.

Quote
konto89

Some suggestions:
Did you check the vrefs?
Maybe you should decrease the head temperatutre?
You can place a piece of cardboard over the bed as you heat it and when it reaches temperature you remove it! It will speed up the process by much! I can reach 100 degrees in 15 minutes from cold!

konto89!!!!!
Thank you so very much!

I took your tip and ran with it, adding some reflective/insulating bubble wrap (like you see around some water heaters), stuck it on some cardboard, and put it on the bed.
Figuring that heat was escaping from the bottom always, I thought I would go a step further and created a little support and stuck some more under the heater - that way the temp might hold better while printing too. I will have to watch this to make sure it doesn't melt (in which case I will switch to aluminum foil) or go up in flames (and I'll have to use something a little more robust than cardboard).

I couldn't believe it. Where before, in 30 minutes, I couldn't reach 90c, and it seemed hard to maintain. Now, in 16 minutes, I hit the 110c, and it stuck - a variance of less than 1c at times. While the variance was understandably higher when the upper insulator was removed, it still only dropped by about 2c.
THANKS AGAIN!
I added more public pictures of the creation, and the temp graph to my Google+ profile. Everything is shown from most recent to oldest:
https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/104180436453111501116/albums/6091068459981460689

Next I will have to try your other suggestion to play with my vRefs. I'm not totally sure I understand their function. I thought you just needed to make sure they were getting enough voltage to the steppers, but if I need to play more, does that mean it needs to be a more exact value? I figured altering the step values in the Marlin firmware would be the solution to the imprecise prints. I guess that leaves a new question with me then: if I alter the vrefs, do I have to readjust the step values as a result? I don't think I'll get to it until tomorrow night (long day ahead of me), but I will keep all posted.
At present, I used some settings posted by another user quite some time ago (sorry, can't remember ID):
X: 0.33V
Y: 0.55V
Z: 0.35V
Extruder: 0.35V
This also begs the question, as there is no visible movement with the cold end, how can you perfect the extruder vref value having nothing to go on?

G'night.
And thanks again. Everyone here is of great help.

Quote
NukedWorker

Quote
konto89
At present, I used some settings posted by another user quite some time ago (sorry, can't remember ID):
X: 0.33V
Y: 0.55V
Z: 0.35V
Extruder: 0.35V
This also begs the question, as there is no visible movement with the cold end, how can you perfect the extruder vref value having nothing to go on?

I have also wondered about what the correct vref should be placed at... If I look at the datasheet for the motors that folger supplies (http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0586/8617/products/1_99a367d7-465e-4190-a765-192b500987e2_grande.jpeg?v=1414115409). It says the small motors for this example are 12v and 0.4a, and if we take the vref formula (VREF=I×8×0.05=0.4×I) shouldn't it be VREF = 0.04A x 0.7 x 0.4 = 0.16V?? Also anything under .40v is safe correct?

Quote
coldfront
The thermostat is on the heatbed already you just have to solder two wires to the small pads on the board doesn't matter which way it goes.

Ah, so that's what P2 is. Thanks for the quick info.

Quote
Waltermixx

Quote
that1guy

Quote
Waltermixx
Extruded pics

15443343735_3d52dfb4e4_o.jpg

.

Walter, first of all thank you and everyone else who's contributed to this thread, it has been tremendously helpful! I have a question on the dissassembled extruder pics above. Is that a couple of washers in it, or a bearing (maybe 623zz)? I ask because I don't have anything in mine and am not getting reliable fillament feeds - not surprising since it looks like that piece is necesary. I do have two washers that fit, but they have a lot of play on the peg, though in a quick test fit, seem like they might do the job. I don't have any extra bearings, I've used the two included bearings for the x and y idlers.

Thanks again to everyone!

Mine was a one piece grooved bearing. I dont recall if it was marked...

After an exhaustive search of the local hobby stores I came up empty. I tried contacting Folger Tech, but no reply. I refused to give up and came up with a solution that works pretty well. I ended up getting a 10mm bearing with a 6mm bore. I then cut some shrink tubing and used that to add thickness to the extruder's pegs, shrinking them with a soldering iron. I then slipped the bearing on, reassembled everything and ran it. It works pretty well I think, I've gotten a few good prints! Now I need to calibrate things a little, I'm getting waves in the walls and skirt.. but I can print!!

Thanks again for everyone's help!

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/14/2014 12:56AM by that1guy.

Success!!! woohoo printed my first cube! I haven't measured it yet, but so far so good. I just need to do some more wire management and clean up and I think I'll call it done...nah its never done . Dual extruder is next. Thanks for the help guys. This thread is really beastly and wish I could have just printed out the whole thing!

[instagram.com]

Printed some glow in the dark pla from mg chemicals. Its kind of cool

Hi coldfront,

Are you saying that the thermostat is already built in the bed? Because of the lack of instruction for this kit, I read it somewhere on the net, I think it was Instructable.com, it says that I need to connected a 103 NTC in the center of the bed, so I did. Like Jamus, I also thought the thermostat was missing from the kit. Perhaps that's why I have the shut down issue.

Oh one more question for curiosity. On the top of the extruder, looking from the front, there are two holes, I know the one one the right is for the 3mm filament, but what is the one on the left? Is it for 1.75 mm filament?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/14/2014 05:37AM by rich1812.