Folger Prusa i3 Kit from ebay

Got my kit at the end of last week. FoldgerTech has started using a new bed carriage design that does not use the printed bearing holders. Instead you just ziptie the bearings to the carriage.

I am to the point now where it is assembled but the z axis motors just "shake" when I try to move them. I have removed the rods so they should be free. Andy ideas?

So I finally had some time over the weekend to work on my kit. Everything complete (bit of wiring mess to cleanup later). However i have run into problem and not sure where to go with it.

X and Z axis work no problem; Y axis I have nothing. I had set my vref to .550 on Y axis but all others were set to .350 as per new Folger manual. I believe this was same others have posted.

I have tried different motor on Y axis and nothing; tried the Y motor on X connection on ramps and nothing

Possible have bad motor/and Ramps board?

Anyway to verify if it would be motor or ramps - so close to xmas really don't want downtime right now LOL. \

Also noticed that my X axis motor gets very hot (vref = .350)



Any help be greatly appreciated

I have my issue figured out. I switched the driver and started to use Pronterface instead of Repetier Host as that seem to be working a bit flaky for me. It still acted up until I told it to home the z axis and now it works fine. Can't remember if I homed the z axis in Repetier or not but I am guessing that sending that command fixed it.

Try adjusting the contrast (with the adjustment on the front of the board)

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nique911
Try adjusting the contrast (with the adjustment on the front of the board)

That's something I should look into. I don't know how to adjust the contrast, as there is no adjustment that I can see. If there is a way, that might actually fix it. I will search, thanks.

Mine looks exactly the same when using the Folger tech firmware. I can get it to beep but that's it.

here are a couple you might want to use.
VREFS [www.nextdayreprap.co.uk]
Steve Roy's write up helped a lot. [www.instructables.com]
Steps per millimeter calculator [prusaprinters.org]
The Arduino link [arduino.cc]
Here is a neat one if anyone is looking for a 3D scanner, you make it out of an XBox Kinects. [www.youtube.com] (I got the Kinects off ebay for $40.00 but have not tried it yet.)
Here is a Calibration Guide [reprap.org]

Adjustable resistor on front left. use the screw driver that came with the kit. sorry just looked at your pic. check the back, mine has adjustment on front. got it from folger.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/23/2014 10:51AM by nique911.

there is a line in configuration h around line 607 #define DEFAULT_LCD_CONTRAST 17 ( I have never touched it) but may be worth a shot.

Well, I finally installed the aluminum bed and cleaned up the wiring. I ditched the printed linear bearing holder things and zip tied the bearings directly to the aluminum bed. It rides a little lower now and I had some clearance issues with the verticle acrylic frame but I just notched it out a little. This bed makes a WORLD of difference. If you are on the fence, just get one. You won't be sorry.

I also stuffed as much fiberglass insulation between the heated bed and the aluminum bed. The heat up process take les time and it seem to hold temp better. I just left an empty space about 3/4" around the outside perimeter so you would not see all that stuff.

Here is a picture of the completed install. And I just cleaned my glass bed and gave it a nice new coat of Garnier Fructis hair spray. That stuff is awesome.

One question maybe someone can help me with. When I print very small parts and the print head spends a long time in the same area, I get distortion from melting. I lowered the temp but not sure how much lower I can go. I'm using Hatchbox white ABS. I turned the temp all the way down to 205 and still have the issue. Any ideas?

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nique911
there is a line in configuration h around line 607 #define DEFAULT_LCD_CONTRAST 17 ( I have never touched it) but may be worth a shot.

hmm maybe thats an issue. my folger configuration.h only goes to line 377 #endif //_configuration_h

I used a fresh copy of Marlin and followed SteveRoy's Instructable page [www.instructables.com] His page was a BIG help.

Ahhh rock on! Fresh marlin is the key. Thanks!

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BayAreaRepRap
Ahhh rock on! Fresh marlin is the key. Thanks!

OOOOHH THAT'S A BINGO!!!!!

Howdy all and happy hollidays!

I've got a print problem and am stumped. All vertical surfaces have a wavy appearance, in both the x and y axis. It'd be cool if it were on purpose. I'm wondering if it has to do with my hacked-together extruder (still haven't heard from Folger, kinda disapointed on that front). You can see it in the skirt as well.

[www.flickr.com]
[www.flickr.com]
[www.flickr.com]

Any tips?

I've tried:
- Slowing and increasing print speed.
- Adjusting the filament width
- layer height (stretches the waves which kinda makes them better, but doesn't get rid of them)
- Tried different slicers
- Increased temperatures
- Decreased temperatures
- Put a box around it to keep the heat in - somewhat like the one Dooms did (I'm printing in a garage and it's pretty cold in here, but doesn't seem to get better/worse with the temperature).

p.s. The gaps inside the print are just slicer settings, I'm able to fix that.

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mikez104

One question maybe someone can help me with. When I print very small parts and the print head spends a long time in the same area, I get distortion from melting. I lowered the temp but not sure how much lower I can go. I'm using Hatchbox white ABS. I turned the temp all the way down to 205 and still have the issue. Any ideas?

20141222_192502.jpg

I'v seen fans mounted on the extruder with ducting that blows air onto the part that is being printed. Maybe that is the reason for the blower, to cool down the print so it won't stay hot and deform.
I was wondering if the heatsink on the extruder could be turned 90 degrees and then a duct could be made to blow the exhaust air from the lower half of the heat sink to the print.
If it is a thermal problem with too much heat remaining in the printed part, maybe insulating the hot end could also help. Insulating the hot end would help with hot end temperature, and help keep that heat off the printed part.

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 12/24/2014 11:33AM by Easy.

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that1guy
I've got a print problem and am stumped. All vertical surfaces have a wavy appearance, in both the x and y axis.

mikez104 was having a similar problem on page 21 and found his bed support screws were all loose and his acrylic bed was warped.
May need to use locktite on the screws if you didn't use nylock nuts. Another problem people were having is a clogged extruder.

Quote
that1guy
Howdy all and happy hollidays!

I've got a print problem and am stumped. All vertical surfaces have a wavy appearance, in both the x and y axis. It'd be cool if it were on purpose. I'm wondering if it has to do with my hacked-together extruder (still haven't heard from Folger, kinda disapointed on that front). You can see it in the skirt as well.

[www.flickr.com]
[www.flickr.com]
[www.flickr.com]

Any tips?

I've tried:
- Slowing and increasing print speed.
- Adjusting the filament width
- layer height (stretches the waves which kinda makes them better, but doesn't get rid of them)
- Tried different slicers
- Increased temperatures
- Decreased temperatures
- Put a box around it to keep the heat in - somewhat like the one Dooms did (I'm printing in a garage and it's pretty cold in here, but doesn't seem to get better/worse with the temperature).

p.s. The gaps inside the print are just slicer settings, I'm able to fix that.

I actually just had this same problem this morning. I swapped out my filament and it really did fix the problem. I was using black shaxon pla and switched it to pla from MG chemicals and it layed down just right!

If you guys don't know what to do with those 4 roller skate bearings here is a suppppppper cheap spool holder you can make! Ghetto or DIY, your call

BOM:
qty 1 5/16" course x 4lg hexbolt
qty 8 5/16" fender washers
qty 8 5/16" intooth lockwashers
qty 6 or 8 5/16" course nuts
qty 2 bread ties
qty 4 skate bearings

tada! haha.Merry Christmas!

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SpudGasket

Quote
that1guy
I've got a print problem and am stumped. All vertical surfaces have a wavy appearance, in both the x and y axis.

mikez104 was having a similar problem on page 21 and found his bed support screws were all loose and his acrylic bed was warped.
May need to use locktite on the screws if you didn't use nylock nuts. Another problem people were having is a clogged extruder.

I checked the screws and they were all nice and tight. The acrylic is slightly warped however under heat it evens out. I've make sure each time I print it's perfectly level on all four corners, but I'm not ruling out the acrylic as a problem. In fact I've already ordered a metal replacement that should be here today or Friday at the latest.

I also checked the timing belts, they're nice and springy, though the X belt may be a little tight, if that's possible (need to print off a tensioner). I do like you're idea of cleaning the extruder, but I'm worried of breaking something as the nozzle is EXTREMELY tight against the heat block and I can't do it by hand. I may clamp it down while its hot and try it, but I'm worried.

BayAreaRepRap: I hadn't thought of that, I'm using Hatchbox ABS, I'll try a different roll and see if that helps.

Here's a high-res pic of the problem from the underside: [www.flickr.com] . If you look, the problem is slightly different from mikez104. The bed and the nozzle aren't moving around during the print, it's extruding in spurts, rather than continously: It spits out a bunch, then a little, over and over. I think that's why a line of plastic goes from fat to thin. I may not be making sense, but check the picture and you'll see it.

Hopefully one, or all, of your suggestions will help. Thanks for taking the time!

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/24/2014 04:09PM by that1guy.

This is my second printer now, but I still seem to be stumped. I just finished assembling it and ive run into an issue. No matter what I do I cant get the motors to move, or get the extruder to heat, but I can get the bed to. I tried it with my Prusa I2's power supply, still nothing. Anyone have an idea?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/26/2014 08:59PM by HairLikeFrodo.

What is the voltage coming out of the Power supply unit?

12.1v coming from the Folger supply and 12v coming from my ATX. They work with my other prusa.

Have you checked the voltage to the stepper drivers? If that is fine, I would say it could be a firmware or RAMPS issue. Have you tired pronterface and Repetier Host?

I get readings off the pots on the stepper drivers. I've tried both and the only thing that works is the heated bed.

Which firmware are you using? Have you tried flashing a new version?

I'm using the one in the Folger tech Google Drive. Is flashing just uploading a new firmware?

Yes, thats right. You should try the latest Marlin Firmware from here. Marlin Firmware

At least then you can rule out a firmware issue.

I will give that a try in the morning. It's about 1:40am where I am. I'll let you know when I wake up. Thank you.

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HairLikeFrodo
I will give that a try in the morning. It's about 1:40am where I am. I'll let you know when I wake up. Thank you.

No worries. Let me know how you go.