Folger Prusa i3 Kit from ebay

Received my new Ramps 1.4 board and now have all stepper motors working.

Kinda of stumped now, I home x/y axis and hits end stops - Only problem is my X motor pushes endstop over. Also when i try to home my Z axis it just wants to keep lowering and have to unplug.

Any idea how I can fix my endstops from being pushed by the motors; and How am I supposed to find home position if the Z motor wants keep lowering (pushing on the bed).?

I am able to move my motors in all axis. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Read forums quite few times but just really frustrated and stuck at this point!


X endstop = to left
Y endstop = front right
z endstop right
Endstops are plugged into ramps board on Min


Thanks

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/10/2015 02:16PM by Booda.

If you guys wouldn't mind I've been having some trouble getting the config right, would you be able to post your configuration.h files so I can compare?

Hair

Not sure if tried but I flashed mine with marlin from folgertech and everything works good, even tested my lcd display Being completely new to this and working for me, if you haven't tried maybe flash with folgers config

Hmm, my lcd wasn't working with Folger's but I might give it a try again.

Quote
HairLikeFrodo
If you guys wouldn't mind I've been having some trouble getting the config right, would you be able to post your configuration.h files so I can compare?

See the github link vonnieda linked back on page 29 of this thread. Has a link to Waltermixx's and Doom101's configuration.h files.

Finally got my printer running today.

Thursday I got the thermisters in the mail, surface mounted, and replaced the bad one. Yesterday I found the cork tiles at Officemax. They were four 12 inch squares in a pack. Each tile is 3/8 inch thick. I cut one down to 214mm square to match the size of the heat bed and notched out the corners. Then I noticed that they didn't fit between the tram and the bed so I had to cut out for the tram hardware. It fit nice after that.

In repitier I noticed that the extruder motor was running backwards so I changed extruder axis reverse to true and that fixed it.

Continued with the calibration and tried to do my first print. It air printed and it took me a while to figure out that my Z axis was set too high. Lowered it down and now it deflects the corner a little but it did print. Not pretty but I succesfully printed my first test cube. At the moment I think I need a little higher extrusion rate because the top is see through.

This is still a learning experience but at least I am still moving forward.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/10/2015 08:37PM by jrcaster.

I purchased my Folgertech kit for Christmas, up and running just fine but I do have one question. (Printing out an ABS Yoda bust as I type)

Do the linear bearings need some sort of lubrication? I seem to have a rattle coming from the X Axis bearings.

No lubrication needed.

Wow - this thing nightmare. Had to troubleshoot almost everything i've done hahaha!!

Anyhow; I've got extruder working / calibrated, all endstops/motors etc working perfect. Next problem - My heatbed will not heat up at all!!

[folger-technologies-llc.myshopify.com] (built in thermistor)

I soldered pins2-3 together for negative, pin 1 positive - Thinking bad solder joint; if someone could look over config.h setttings make sure correct



I have following in config.h:

#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 6
#define TEMP_SENSOR_1 0
#define TEMP_SENSOR_2 0
#define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 6

// Actual temperature must be close to target for this long before M109 returns success
#define TEMP_RESIDENCY_TIME 10 // (seconds)
#define TEMP_HYSTERESIS 3 // (degC) range of +/- temperatures considered "close" to the target one
#define TEMP_WINDOW 1 // (degC) Window around target to start the recidency timer x degC early.

// The minimal temperature defines the temperature below which the heater will not be enabled It is used
// to check that the wiring to the thermistor is not broken.
// Otherwise this would lead to the heater being powered on all the time.
#define HEATER_0_MINTEMP 5
#define HEATER_1_MINTEMP 5
#define HEATER_2_MINTEMP 5
#define BED_MINTEMP 5

// When temperature exceeds max temp, your heater will be switched off.
// This feature exists to protect your hotend from overheating accidentally, but *NOT* from thermistor short/failure!
// You should use MINTEMP for thermistor short/failure protection.
#define HEATER_0_MAXTEMP 270
#define HEATER_1_MAXTEMP 245
#define HEATER_2_MAXTEMP 245
#define BED_MAXTEMP 200

// If your bed has low resistance e.g. .6 ohm and throws the fuse you can duty cycle it to reduce the
// average current. The value should be an integer and the heat bed will be turned on for 1 interval of
// HEATER_BED_DUTY_CYCLE_DIVIDER intervals.
//#define HEATER_BED_DUTY_CYCLE_DIVIDER 4

I ran Ramps 1.4 test code and my heated bed heats up as it should,

Anyone know if on ramps 1.4 led #2 starts solid and then starts to blink. Is this normal? (non test mode i'm talking about)

I have attached my config.h file is someone could please review it for heat bed. Ramps test = heated bed working so wonder if it's code issue in config.h!!


Annnnny help be greatly appreciated

Quote
xhamburglarx
Do the linear bearings need some sort of lubrication? I seem to have a rattle coming from the X Axis bearings.

This crossed my mind last night too, I get some not-too-pleasant sounds coming from the X and Y axis bearings from time to time, but it still seems to be running smoothly

My biggest concern right now is my extruder and x-axis steppers are getting VERY warm. Turned the Vref on the extruder down from 0.35 to 0.27, seemed to be running fine, then about 20 minutes into a print it started skipping steps. Turned the Vref back up to 0.30 and it's running much better. The stepper is still getting pretty warm, but not near as bad as it was at 0.35. The x- axis stepper on the other hand, I also turned down from 0.35 to ~0.27. That helped a little with the heat, but not much, and from time to time it was sounding like the stepper was struggling to keep up. Turned the x-axis back up to ~0.30 and it seems like it's running way better, but the stepper still gets really warm. Should I just buy some more heatsinks and fans to combat this? Eventually upgrading the extruder and x-axis steppers probably wouldn't be a bad idea either.

Ran Marlins test code and bed heated up;

loaded up default marlin file and was able to get heated bed to come on....no motor controls.

Something definitely with the config.h I just cannot figure it out. Hopefully someone be able help out here.

repetier host - When i connect the heated bed status bar disappears completely.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/12/2015 03:17PM by Booda.

I just finished building my kit today. I couldn't figure out a better way to mount the Y endstop. So, I put it at the back right corner which seemed like the best place for it so as not to lose build volume. The problem I am having with the printer is when I try to manually home the Y axis it moves a tiny bit towards the back but never goes farther than that. I am using the files on Folger Tech's google drive and I've edited the configuration.h file so that...
#define X_HOME_DIR -1
#define Y_HOME_DIR 1
#define Z_HOME_DIR -1
This fixed the problem of the bed moving in the wrong direction when I try to manually home as per the instructions on their google drive.
Is there another setting I need to change?

Quote
JSR82
I just finished building my kit today. I couldn't figure out a better way to mount the Y endstop. So, I put it at the back right corner which seemed like the best place for it so as not to lose build volume. The problem I am having with the printer is when I try to manually home the Y axis it moves a tiny bit towards the back but never goes farther than that. I am using the files on Folger Tech's google drive and I've edited the configuration.h file so that...
#define X_HOME_DIR -1
#define Y_HOME_DIR 1
#define Z_HOME_DIR -1
This fixed the problem of the bed moving in the wrong direction when I try to manually home as per the instructions on their google drive.
Is there another setting I need to change?

When you hit the Y+ in Pronterface the bed should move toward you.
If the Y endstop is at the back of the frame it's a MIN endstop and therefore #define Y_HOME_DIR should be -1

Check which way the bed moves first and swap the cable around on the RAMPS if needed, then make the #define Y_HOME_DIR -1 in Marlin, compile/upload and change it to the MIN position on the RAMPS board.

That should work

Steve

---

My updated Instructable on our Prusa i3 Build
[www.instructables.com]

Ok very strange.

I Loaded marlin firmware from [github.com]

Says motherboard board_ultimaker (default). I load up repetier host just to connect and low and behold heat bed option available. I then switch to motherboard 33 (ramps 1.4) recompile and upload sketch. Heated bed option disappears everytime I set motherboard to 33.

Tested voltage and getting 12.28v from heat bed to power supply!! Not sure what other info to offer but really stuck at this point on how to get my heated bed working

Disconnect the heated bed from the RAMPS and test the wires going to the bed for resistance. This will ensure that you are not wasting your time trying to get a bad bed working. Post your findings and we'll go from there.

---

-David

Find me online at:
Thingiverse
Instructables.com
LinkedIn
Facebook

Check out my FolgerTech Prusa i3 (plexi) at MindRealm.net

Thanks for the help. I have another problem now. When I try to print a test cube, the printer goes through the homing process and everything just fine. It heats up the bed then the extruder. Then, it goes to the extreme back left of the bed and just makes a blob. It's half on the glass and half on the bed PCB. It seems like the only direction it moves is the Z axis. I am using the configuration manual provided by folger tech to set everything up. So, I'm using Repetier and slic3r. I have the cube centered in repetier, but it prints at extreme ends of X and Y. I double checked all my settings against the configuration manual. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

I Changed some settings and now its working!

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/13/2015 11:34AM by JSR82.

Quote
MindRealm
Disconnect the heated bed from the RAMPS and test the wires going to the bed for resistance. This will ensure that you are not wasting your time trying to get a bad bed working. Post your findings and we'll go from there.

Measured resistance and get 0.9 ohms. Should be minimum 1-2ohms is that correct?
Not that matter but it is the r1 dual power heated bed

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/13/2015 11:20AM by Booda.

Greetings everyone,

I've been lurking here for quite awhile until my printer arrived, which it did yesterday. It's now built (quite a bit of cleanup on wires to do yet) however, I just used pronterface to manually head both the bed and hotend to validate they're working. Set the hotend to 185 (pronterface's recommendation for PLA) and after about 15-20 seconts @ what appeared to be 141 degrees the end started smoking. I immediately shut it off in fears of ruining something. Is there grease or something from factory that burns off initially or is there an issue?

Last couple responses from pronterface:
SENDING:M105
ok T:137.7 /185.0 B:54.5 /60.0 @:128 B@:128
SENDING:M105
ok T:139.0 /185.0 B:54.8 /60.0 @:128 B@:128
SENDING:M105
ok T:140.2 /185.0 B:55.1 /60.0 @:128 B@:128
SENDING:M105
ok T:141.8 /185.0 B:55.4 /60.0 @:128 B@:128

Still some end stop issues as well but think I can work through those. Appreciate the help in advance.

While printing test cubes today, I have run into the same issue everytime. One side of the cube, the one facing the back of the printer, is terrible quality. I have switched from slic3r to cura and that helped on some other issues, but one side is terrible every time. I would think two opposite sides would both be bad quality, but its only one. Is it possible theres something wrong with my Y carriage? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Also, my X axis motor is getting preety darn hot. Is that normal? Is it because of my vref on the stepper driver?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/13/2015 08:05PM by JSR82.

Quote
ErraticDecay
Greetings everyone,

I've been lurking here for quite awhile until my printer arrived, which it did yesterday. It's now built (quite a bit of cleanup on wires to do yet) however, I just used pronterface to manually head both the bed and hotend to validate they're working. Set the hotend to 185 (pronterface's recommendation for PLA) and after about 15-20 seconts @ what appeared to be 141 degrees the end started smoking. I immediately shut it off in fears of ruining something. Is there grease or something from factory that burns off initially or is there an issue?.

Mine did the same thing. I probably should have been more concerned about it, but I just let it continue heating up, and after 10-15 seconds in quit smoking. I'm guessing it's some something on the nozzle that burns off.

Still not getting good prints. The extruder is ticking and each time the filament jumps up a little. With PLA it causes thin extrusion that doesn't adhere properly. With ABS it still does it but not as bad. Using ABS I can hold a little pressure on the filament and get it to complete the print. It seems like it doesn't have enough clamping presure from the V grooved bearing. Is there any way to fix this?

Quote
boy09
Mine did the same thing. I probably should have been more concerned about it, but I just let it continue heating up, and after 10-15 seconds in quit smoking. I'm guessing it's some something on the nozzle that burns off.

You are absolutely correct, I set it to 230 and it went up fine, zero smoke. Phew.

Thanks for the reply.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/14/2015 02:45AM by ErraticDecay.

I'm having the same issue. I heated up te nozzle to 240 and ran it good. That didn't last tho and its clocking again. I've tried all types of temp variations and other settings to no avail. I emailed folger and haven't had a response yet. I've already ordered an E3D V6 but now I need to make the mounting adapter for it...

Quote
jrcaster
Still not getting good prints. The extruder is ticking and each time the filament jumps up a little. With PLA it causes thin extrusion that doesn't adhere properly. With ABS it still does it but not as bad. Using ABS I can hold a little pressure on the filament and get it to complete the print. It seems like it doesn't have enough clamping presure from the V grooved bearing. Is there any way to fix this?

Quote
jrcaster
Still not getting good prints. The extruder is ticking and each time the filament jumps up a little. With PLA it causes thin extrusion that doesn't adhere properly. With ABS it still does it but not as bad. Using ABS I can hold a little pressure on the filament and get it to complete the print. It seems like it doesn't have enough clamping presure from the V grooved bearing. Is there any way to fix this?

The ticking have nothing to do with the bearing pressure. Too much pressure from the bearing can make it ticking too. Ticking means the force needed to feed the filament exceeds motor's power. There's many possible causes for that, both can be present, alone or at the same time. Maybe the stepstick is not set properly (less or too much current). Maybe the stepper motor is damaged (I had my folger's extruder motor dead within 250 hours. Small and cheap motors are fragile.) Check it's operational temperature, remember the heatsink block is directly screwed on it ! Maybe it's a hotend problem. Clogging makes the filament hard to be pushed, try machine off and extruder hot. You should push the filament without any noticeable resistance. Keep in mind that your cold end temperature may change during print time, as far Folger's system have some trouble to keep the coldend cold ! A good fand can helps a lot : 40mm fans @$1.50 on ebay have two times more power than Folger's. Last, check that nothings obturate the nozzle. Some filaments carries sand or metal chips that stands in the nozzle. Some lucky people do, but I never managed to print properly with Folger's extruder, and replaced it all : new motor, new extruder (using Folger's gear and bearing), new hotend (E3D V5). And now I can use my printer and print with confidence.

Edited 4 time(s). Last edit at 01/14/2015 05:25AM by Zavashier.

---

Collective intelligence emerges when a group of people work together effectively. Prusa i3 Folger (A lot of the parts are wrong, boring !)

Really stumped with my bed not heating issue. Have spare ramps/arduino board so hooked it up and getting same issue as before . My bed won't turn on, repetier host heated bed status bar disappears. Was thinking if i had blown mosfet or something that the other board would work. I don't see any physical problems with fuses/mosfets on either board. Tested the new one i got and 12.28 volts (tested D8 +/-) resistance = 0.9 ohms.

soldered / resoldered my heatbed to assure good solder. Ramps test code - heated bed worked. I plugged heated bed directly to power supply and it worked however without being able control temps or anything did this just for test purposes (as mentioned in other forums).

Not sure what I can test next - fact that other arduino/ramps doing same thing really has me stumped. config.h set to motherboard 33; bed temp 6 (tried 1 as well - same 100k epcos)

Still look for some help troubleshoot this. Had since xmas and yet make print. Got hotend / motors working and calibrated extruder at least

Greetings,

Looking for help with gap between layers (Gizmo Dorks 1.75mm PLA) that are large enough to press a finger nail through. I'm using Walter's config from github, changed the DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT from ~4100 through 3700 (~100 increments) without improvement. Bed temps between 50-60, hotend between 180-200.

Slic3r
layer height: .2
first layer: .3
Speed
Perimeter: 30mm
small perimeter: 30mm
Infill: 50mm
Extrusion multiplier: 1.1

I have performed the extrusion calibration, was off about ~.5mm @ 100mm. The print is sticking to the bed just fine. I have leveled the bed both cold and hot with a piece of paper. The gap appears on all 3 axis' and I can't really do a x/y calibration due to the soft layers / single strands. Basically X/Y definitely off due to gap and Z doesn't appear to be adhering to the previous layer.

Appreciate the assistance in advance.

[i]"Really stumped with my bed not heating issue. Have spare ramps/arduino board so hooked it up and getting same issue as before . My bed won't turn on, repetier host heated bed status bar disappears. Was thinking if i had blown mosfet or something that the other board would work. I don't see any physical problems with fuses/mosfets on either board. Tested the new one i got and 12.28 volts (tested D8 +/-) resistance = 0.9 ohms.

soldered / resoldered my heatbed to assure good solder. Ramps test code - heated bed worked. I plugged heated bed directly to power supply and it worked however without being able control temps or anything did this just for test purposes (as mentioned in other forums).

Not sure what I can test next - fact that other arduino/ramps doing same thing really has me stumped. config.h set to motherboard 33; bed temp 6 (tried 1 as well - same 100k epcos)

Still look for some help troubleshoot this. Had since xmas and yet make print. Got hotend / motors working and calibrated extruder at least angry smiley"[/i]


I don't know if you have already checked this, or if it may be the problem, but have you checked the ohms resistance on the heat bed thermistor?

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 01/14/2015 08:35PM by Easy.

I just checked resistance off thermistor wires (built in thermistor) and get 0 ohms

@ Booda
If you are getting 0 ohms across your heatbed thermister leads your thermister is somehow shorted. remove the thermister connector from your ramps board and measure again. You can measure this at the soldered connections on the edge of the heat bed. Make sure you don't have anything shorting it out such as foil or anything metal you might be using to shield the carraige.

The resistance you should be getting across the thermister is 90k to 100k ohms. At 0 ohms look for solder bridges where the wires are soldered to the heatbed, then use a magnifyer and check for solder bridges at the thermister.