Folger Prusa i3 Kit from ebay

MakerGeeks sells a cleaning wire. I bought one and it works pretty well. The trick is to find one small enough that also won't bend to much. You're probably on the right track with the acetone though. Give it a good soak then see if you can see through it. Maybe cut a piece of filamnet off and see if you can get it through it without to much restriction.

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DriftyDave
Whats the best way to clean it out? Of course I don't have a .4mm drill bit. I have it sitting in acetone now in hopes of melting all the ABS out...

Seems to be working fairly well at the moment. I still get the occasional click when doing infill. But overall its running nicely.

After cleaning the nozzle I was still getting a bunch of clicking. I bumped the temp up to 245 and the clicks went right away. I am using Hatchbox ABS from Amazon, the reviews looked great. Anyone else have to go up this high?

It just so happens I've been using Hatchbox myself. I've found 205 to be in the wheelhouse for me. I start at 225 for the first layer then go down to 205. I like it so far.

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DriftyDave
Seems to be working fairly well at the moment. I still get the occasional click when doing infill. But overall its running nicely.

After cleaning the nozzle I was still getting a bunch of clicking. I bumped the temp up to 245 and the clicks went right away. I am using Hatchbox ABS from Amazon, the reviews looked great. Anyone else have to go up this high?

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DriftyDave
Whats the best way to clean it out? Of course I don't have a .4mm drill bit. I have it sitting in acetone now in hopes of melting all the ABS out...

I found that using a little butane lighter and letting most of the plastic flow out and then burning away the rest is the fastest method to me... takes me less than 5 minutes to do and 5 minutes of waiting for it to cool down enough to dunk in water. You don't want to get it wet while it's cherry hot because the rapid heat loss causes micro-stress fractures (which will eventually lead to a visible crack), but brass heats quite well very easily. Then I use the tip of a sewing needle to make sure the nozzle hole is completely open.

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donkahones
@Vanbot You will end up replacing almost everything on it once you get started I've printed all my upgrades in red pla so I can see whats stock and whats upgraded. Only black parts left are the four black corners and the Y motor mount. Thing is that you need a printer to print the upgrades. It's a learning experience so you wont know what to print until you have an issue you need to solve. If you are assembling the printer tonight then make note of the pic I posted a few posts up that shows how you should secure your belts. (Don't follow what folger tech says to do)

Yeah I'm definitely getting the idea that these kits aren't really supposed to function very well with the components they ship with. They sort of give you a bunch of crap that they know won't ever work right and it's up to you to fix it all.

I've found several problems with mine so far:

- t-slot holes that are too small for the nut to fit into
- a missing square hole for one of the motor mounts
- missing screws
- screws specced in the instructions to mount motors are too long and therefore bottom out before they're tight
- no wire for the heat bed

But the best one I found this evening...the socket on the RAMPS board that the second Z axis stepper is supposed to plug into is too close to the socket for the stepper drive which means it's IMPOSSIBLE to plug in both of my Z steppers!!!! Anyone else come across this issue and solved it?

Poor Dan at Folger must dread getting emails from me by now. I started emailing him after my printer was a week late shipping ( a week later than the ten days they SAID it would take to ship) . and now I'm sending him photos of the stuff that is wrong with my kit and pointing out how bad their manual is. Is it too much to ask that if you're going to make a manual you make it useful? Lol

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Vanbot
I've found several problems with mine so far:

- t-slot holes that are too small for the nut to fit into
- a missing square hole for one of the motor mounts
- missing screws
- screws specced in the instructions to mount motors are too long and therefore bottom out before they're tight
- no wire for the heat bed

But the best one I found this evening...the socket on the RAMPS board that the second Z axis stepper is supposed to plug into is too close to the socket for the stepper drive which means it's IMPOSSIBLE to plug in both of my Z steppers!!!! Anyone else come across this issue and solved it?

I found that the t-slots were occasionally half a millimeter too small in one dimension... fortunately I have several needle files already as a student jeweler and widened the hole that fraction of a mm. The wire for the heater bed and the wire for the fan were suppose to be from the same length shipped, just cut in two. I chose to use all of it for the heater bed and used some wire from some old scrap cat-5 I had laying around. The advantage of using the twisted pair from the cat-5 was that I could plug it into the fan without cutting off the assembled connector it came with... That's a personal preference though, I hate ruining perfectly good things if I don't have to. Additionally, I intend to build a box for the printer to sit in and have all the electronics outside the box, which means more lengthy wires... so I'm looking ahead on that front too.

Thanks hathalud.

I have a lot of tools but needle files aren't included in my collection. Still not sure what I'm going to use...maybe a razor or something.

Yeah the fan wiring is another issue. The Folger manual says to extend it so that it reaches the board but doesn't mention whether there is supposed to be a wire with connector included in the kit to do that or whether once again this is something I'll have to hack. I don't mind coming up with solutions but it gets frustrating when you are told you're getting a complete kit and then you discover you're actually going to be getting in your car to go track down parts that are missing. For people who live outside of cities this must be quite annoying as they don't have the option of doing that and must order from online suppliers. Just trying to figure out the parts of the manual that are wrong or ambiguous has added a lot of time to the build.

Anyway, for the heated bed that small gauge wire is enough? It's what...20 gauge? 22? That seems really small for a heater although I don't actually know how much power that draws.

Did you have the same problem with the sockets on the board for your z axis stepper motor connectors too? I e-mailed Dan at Folger last night about that one and am still waiting to hear back. There just doesn't seem to be physical space to plug in the stepper drive *and* the motor plug. It looks like it was a QC issue with the board layout.

I've got an enclosure design all ready to go. My local hackspace just got its laser cutter back online so I used Sketchup to design a 1/4" plywood enclosure that uses t-slots to hold it all together and will be cutting it all out soon.

I bought these on Amazon. I use these more than any other tool in my bag when it comes to 3D printing lol. Very handy and prefectly sized for 3D printed items.
10pc Diamond Mini Needle File Set Metal Glass Stone

I went to Lowes (am in the US) and bought a set for $1.98.
Here is the link: Six Needle Files for $1.98

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Vanbot
Thanks hathalud.

I have a lot of tools but needle files aren't included in my collection. Still not sure what I'm going to use...maybe a razor or something.

Yeah the fan wiring is another issue. The Folger manual says to extend it so that it reaches the board but doesn't mention whether there is supposed to be a wire with connector included in the kit to do that or whether once again this is something I'll have to hack. I don't mind coming up with solutions but it gets frustrating when you are told you're getting a complete kit and then you discover you're actually going to be getting in your car to go track down parts that are missing. For people who live outside of cities this must be quite annoying as they don't have the option of doing that and must order from online suppliers. Just trying to figure out the parts of the manual that are wrong or ambiguous has added a lot of time to the build.

Anyway, for the heated bed that small gauge wire is enough? It's what...20 gauge? 22? That seems really small for a heater although I don't actually know how much power that draws.

Did you have the same problem with the sockets on the board for your z axis stepper motor connectors too? I e-mailed Dan at Folger last night about that one and am still waiting to hear back. There just doesn't seem to be physical space to plug in the stepper drive *and* the motor plug. It looks like it was a QC issue with the board layout.

I've got an enclosure design all ready to go. My local hackspace just got its laser cutter back online so I used Sketchup to design a 1/4" plywood enclosure that uses t-slots to hold it all together and will be cutting it all out soon.

The thin twisted pair wire from the cat-5 cable is enough for the fan... I used the heavier-duty red and black wire that came with my kit for the heater bed.

As the others mentioned already, needle files are cheap and easily acquired. I bought mine at Harbor Freight Tools for a few bucks too.

I didn't have any trouble connecting the motor wiring to the RAMPS in any fashion. I did have to search around and find a pic showing which way the wire was oriented to get the proper polarities. Mine looks just like the reference pictures in that respect though.

Good for you on the enclosure.

I've been pretty much clog (1 clog, my fault), blister and popping free with my filament (I've used MakerGeek, Botfeeder (which is awesome) and Hatchbox ABS so far). And I think I know why, is because I keep the humidity of my filament at around 10%. They say below 30% is good. But this system works like a dream.

Items needed:

5 Gal bucket
5-gal. Screw Top Lid
Wireless Mini Dehumidifer
Wireless Indoor/Outdoor Thermometer and Humidity Sensor

Place filament (up to 4 or 5 rolls) mini dehumidifer, and sensor in the bucket.
Screw the lid on.
Watch in amazment as the humidity drops like a rock.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/09/2015 12:46PM by krwynn.

Anyone get the Full Graphic Controller and display LCD to work with the Prusa machine? If you did are you willing to share your config...h file and your pins.h file.???

TIA

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Ecky
Anyone get the Full Graphic Controller and display LCD to work with the Prusa machine? If you did are you willing to share your config...h file and your pins.h file.???

TIA

I followed this and it worked first try.

3D printing guides - Setting up a LCD and SD card controller panel

Oh yes I've been looking at lots of youtube vids and photos of other builds. :-)

The heavy black and red wire is for the power supply to RAMPS connection correct? So that's the right stuff to use for the heating bed too? That makes sense but my kit doesn't include enough of that wire to make the four connections between PS and RAMPS and then also to supply the heating bed. Especially since the heating bed wires need to be fairly long.

The attached photos will show what I mean about there being no space to plug in the second z motor. Anyone know of a fix for this or am I going to have to get a new RAMPS?

Thanks for the helpful links to needle files. Lol

I seem to be printing well now. I think the trick for me was to keep increasing the temp until the clicking stopped. Ended up at 250 but its printing really well. I'm thinking my thermistor is a bit off?

@vanbot: Try holding the nut with pliers and heating it up with a lighter and sticking into the frame. Worked for me. On one I had to heat it up twice to get it to melt all the way through.

Two of my steppers are heating up pretty badly. Can't hold my hand on them... The X stepper and the extruder. I checked the vrefs and they look good. Any thoughts? Doesn't seem good for the motors on a 4 hour print. I have temporarily zip tied a server heat sink to the x Stepper.

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 04/09/2015 04:54PM by DriftyDave.

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DriftyDave
I seem to be printing well now. I think the trick for me was to keep increasing the temp until the clicking stopped. Ended up at 250 but its printing really well. I'm thinking my thermistor is a bit off?

@vanbot: Try holding the nut with pliers and heating it up with a lighter and sticking into the frame. Worked for me. On one I had to heat it up twice to get it to melt all the way through.

Two of my steppers are heating up pretty badly. Can't hold my hand on them... The X stepper and the extruder. I checked the vrefs and they look good. Any thoughts? Doesn't seem good for the motors on a 4 hour print.

I put a fan on X and Y. 40mm x 40mm fans on both. Have the Y fan set in close to the motor. Watch the height or it will hit the bed or bearing. Make sure it blows away from the bed as it will cool things off a bit.
Used this for the X fan NEMA 17 40mm Fan Shroud it works well. Wrap a few rounds of kapton tape around the end of the motor so the shroud would get a firm grip. Runs cool as a cucumber ever since.

My exruder gets hot too. I can't hold my hand on it for more than 4-5 sec. I just changed my extruder to this one and it's a lot better.
Extruder for FolgerTech Prusa i3 (v-groove bearing and flat feeder)

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krwynn
I put a fan on X and Y. 40mm x 40mm fans on both. Have the Y fan set in close to the motor. Watch the height or it will hit the bed or bearing. Make sure it blows away from the bed as it will cool things off a bit.
Used this for the X fan NEMA 17 40mm Fan Shroud it works well. Wrap a few rounds of kapton tape around the end of the motor so the shroud would get a firm grip. Runs cool as a cucumber ever since.

My extruder gets hot too. I can't hold my hand on it for more than 4-5 sec. I just changed my extruder to this one and it's a lot better.
Extruder for FolgerTech Prusa i3 (v-groove bearing and flat feeder)

Nice! I am printing those next. The heat-sink has really helped for now. I am almost done printing the spool holder. Here is the link: Prusa i3 Spool Holder

I like the 5 gallon bucket idea too. I have a bunch of that water absorber stuff for damp basements. I might try some of that. It is definitely moist around here.

I'm still tinkering with the slicer settings and such but I am really happy with my last few prints. I certainly couldn't have made it here this fast without this thread. This is an amazing resource.

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DriftyDave

@vanbot: Try holding the nut with pliers and heating it up with a lighter and sticking into the frame. Worked for me. On one I had to heat it up twice to get it to melt all the way through.

Thanks Dave. I haven't worked with acrylic before so don't want to risk cracking it. But your suggestion sounds like a good fix for the nut hole issue. Maybe Folgertech can think about getting that fixed with their frame supplier.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/09/2015 07:21PM by Vanbot.

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Vanbot
Oh yes I've been looking at lots of youtube vids and photos of other builds. :-)

The heavy black and red wire is for the power supply to RAMPS connection correct? So that's the right stuff to use for the heating bed too? That makes sense but my kit doesn't include enough of that wire to make the four connections between PS and RAMPS and then also to supply the heating bed. Especially since the heating bed wires need to be fairly long.

The attached photos will show what I mean about there being no space to plug in the second z motor. Anyone know of a fix for this or am I going to have to get a new RAMPS?

Thanks for the helpful links to needle files. Lol

If you are at the hackspace for the Saturday 3D printer drop-in we have extra suitable gague wire for the heat bed. I can take a look at the RAMPS too.

Steve

---

My updated Instructable on our Prusa i3 Build
[www.instructables.com]

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SteveRoy

If you are at the hackspace for the Saturday 3D printer drop-in we have extra suitable gague wire for the heat bed. I can take a look at the RAMPS too.

Steve

Hi Steve. I'm going to try to make it tomorrow morning. I was hoping to surprise you guys with a fully functional, printing printer (I'm delusional, I know) but I didn't have time to run out and grab the extra parts I need so it looks like I'll be finishing the build and then getting stuck into the electronics tomorrow at the hackspace. I think this RAMPS is a writeoff as there is just no room for the connector but a buddy has given me another one to use temporarily. I'm still waiting to hear back from Folgertech about it but at least in the meantime I can start printing some improved parts! Hopefully see you tomorrow.

What do you guys do with the extra motor wiring length?? Cut them shorter, fold & wrap.

Can I bundle several wires together? Will there be cross talk between the motors????

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Ecky
What do you guys do with the extra motor wiring length?? Cut them shorter, fold & wrap.

Can I bundle several wires together? Will there be cross talk between the motors????

I've just wrapped mine in several zip ties for now until I know exactly how I want it to look and work. So for now all the wires coming from the print head...thermistor, extruder stepper motor, fan...are bundled together. Ditto for end stop wires, other stepper motors. It's better than the birds nest it was earlier today but it's still pretty ugly. I just don't want to cut anything yet. Once I have my prox sensor and LCD installed and know where everything is going to sit I'll cut the wires down to size and cover everything in a wire loom of some kind.

When I operate the extruder with manual control in Repetier, the control for the extruder drive seems to be reversed. It seems the firmware might be assuming I'm using a geared extruder when in fact I'm using a direct drive extruder? Is there a way to reverse it? Seems like something that would be set up in the printer settings in Repetier but there doesn't seem to be any option to do that.

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Vanbot
When I operate the extruder with manual control in Repetier, the control for the extruder drive seems to be reversed. It seems the firmware might be assuming I'm using a geared extruder when in fact I'm using a direct drive extruder? Is there a way to reverse it? Seems like something that would be set up in the printer settings in Repetier but there doesn't seem to be any option to do that.

Try this in your configuration.h file
#define INVERT_E0_DIR true // for direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to false

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krwynn

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Vanbot
When I operate the extruder with manual control in Repetier, the control for the extruder drive seems to be reversed. It seems the firmware might be assuming I'm using a geared extruder when in fact I'm using a direct drive extruder? Is there a way to reverse it? Seems like something that would be set up in the printer settings in Repetier but there doesn't seem to be any option to do that.

Try this in your configuration.h file
#define INVERT_E0_DIR true // for direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to false

Is that something I need to add to the config file or is it supposed to be already in there but set to "false"? I searched the configuration and advanced configuration files and that line doesn't exist in either. The closest I could find was this: INVERT_E_STEP_PIN false

Current version of Marlin 1.0.2

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Vanbot

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krwynn

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Vanbot
When I operate the extruder with manual control in Repetier, the control for the extruder drive seems to be reversed. It seems the firmware might be assuming I'm using a geared extruder when in fact I'm using a direct drive extruder? Is there a way to reverse it? Seems like something that would be set up in the printer settings in Repetier but there doesn't seem to be any option to do that.

Try this in your configuration.h file
#define INVERT_E0_DIR true // for direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to false

Is that something I need to add to the config file or is it supposed to be already in there but set to "false"? I searched the configuration and advanced configuration files and that line doesn't exist in either. The closest I could find was this: INVERT_E_STEP_PIN false

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krwynn
Current version of Marlin 1.0.2

Thanks krwynn. I'm a rookie when it comes to using Marlin though so I'm not sure what to do with the 1.0.2 version. It took me 15 minutes just to figure out I don't have the most up to date version!

So the version Folger has on their site is outdated and I need to update but what about all the settings in the original Folger firmware? How do I make sure that all gets transferred over to the new firmware? I understand that the new version must be flashed onto the Arduino but since it's not coming from Folger how do I do that without losing all the details of the motherboard etc on my setup?

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Vanbot


I understand that the new version must be flashed onto the Arduino but since it's not coming from Folger how do I do that without losing all the details of the motherboard etc on my setup?

Use Winmerge to do a line by line comparison of the 2 files.

I am using the version of Marlin from the Folger drive and its working great. The line you are looking for in there is: #define INVERT_E0_DIR true. You need to be looking in the Configuration.h tab of the Arduino IDE.

Does anyone have a good reason to upgrade Marlin if the version I am using is working well?

Hi All,

Thank you for the great information on here, it has helped a lot.

I've finished assembling but i have a problem, None of the motors work properly, the Z axis motors turn the threaded rod but it doesn't move anything up or down, it stays stationary. Then the X and Y motors only move it one way and can't move the other. After a few tries you can hear a high pitch sound.

Any idea?

Are my belts too tight?

Thank you in advance

Also sorry if this has been answered before.