Folger Prusa i3 Kit from ebay

I purchased the kit from these guys, and so far I'm very happy with both the kit, and the service. It's more like a full kit of parts, then a 3d printer kit. All the parts are their, but no instructions per say. They have started to post construction video's and additional information on their google drive, (5 video's on basic construction, the link is in the description on their eBay auction) The kit of parts is $350.00 and includes everything you need except the tools, the glass plate, and filament.

I thought I would start a thread on this, because when I purchased it was the 22nd or 23rd purchaser, now they are up to 58 sold on their eBay auction. Not sure how many left, but if you want a great deal for a kit of parts, it's pretty cool I am not affiliated with them in any way, however i am a happy customer so far. I should state, that they did forget to include the 3d printed parts in the kit, but after contacting them, they rushed the parts out the door. Despite this, i gave them a 5 start rating as they were quick to answer questions, and quick to rectify the missing parts.
The threaded and smooth rods that come with the kit are not cut to length, you will need to do that yourself (it does state this on the auction). I asked them if they could cut them to size before sending it out, and they did for a very small fee.

at any rate, here is my thread, and once I receive the missing parts I will continue the construction and take pictures etc, as well as post any relevant notes. I encourage anyone who also bought this kit to post stuff here as well and if you have not picked one up yet, just do a search for Prusa i3 and you should find it. Not sure what the rules are about posting links to ebay auctions Attached, is a picture of the completed unit from their auction

Cheers.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/10/2014 10:00AM by Waltermixx.

I figured I'd chime in here, since I have this same kit and just complete it the other night. I've successfully printed a very respectable configuration cube and was about to try out a more complex model when my extruder clogged last night.

As far as the quality of the kit, I think it's awesome for the price. The only downfall might be the use of lower-spec motors than what most people use but so far that doesn't seem to be an issue. I'll post some pictures of the complete kit later tonight.

I've attached a few pictures of my completed build

Cool thank you for the pictures
Hoping others will post. .

I noticed in one of your pictures you have the Y-Axis base, slid all the way towards the front of the printer, based on where you have it bolted on the two rear side panels of the plexi glass frame. Are you able to get the full build volume from there?
I'm hoping to maximize my build volume Do you happen to know your Z height for your builds? Thanks for taking the time to post this information, the 58 or so of us purchases will definitely appreciate any info

Cheers.

I actually cut my y-axis rods shorter than recommended (by about 20mm or so) and I can go past the print area on both ends. Because the extruder sticks out so far, you should slide the platform as far forward as it'll go. It also helps you get everything nice and square since the slots are machine cut and of equal length.

The z-height of this kit is about 190mm.

I also tried using the firmware from Folger and it was pretty close to the settings I found. The z homing rate they're using works much better than the value I was using. They also are using a different thermostor table than default, so perhaps it'll be more accurate now.

One thing I haven't quite figure out is what VRef to use. Right now I'm using ~800mv for the z and y, and ~400mv for the x and extruder. Seems to work okay but I still get high pitched whines from the extruder and x axis.

Oh, I should mention that the only issue I found with Folger's Marlin firmware is that they set the extruder direction wrong. Since the kit comes with a direct drive setup, you need to open 'Configuration.h' and change the line '#define INVERT_E0_DIR false' to '#define INVERT_E0_DIR true'. If you don't make this change you'll notice pretty quickly...

Hi mine is very similar to yours and I had the same problems no instruction or service for mine and they made me wait like 6 weeks before they sent it out. I ended up building it just from the pic on ebay, mine has the melzi board much more plug and play than the ramps id say. ill have to take a pic and show you. there is a lot of stuff for ramps. wiki is good for stuff too. have you got the programs sorted out yet ?.

I ended up using the Marlin firmware from Folger with only a few adjustments to the steps_per_mm settings. I made two really good looking prints so far.

Final pictures of a spiral vase I printed. I think I need to lower my z-axis endstop just slightly, the adhesion of the first or second layer to the rest of the print isn't that great. Other than that, I'd say this printer rocks!

This print took about 3 hours to complete, I wonder if I could speed it up a bit. I'm not sure how long a 'better' printer could do it in...

Next, I'll be desining a spool holder, I'll put the link up here so others with this kit (or any Prusa i3) can build one too.

Wow it looks sharp. My buddy printed some parts for me so I can get started...(while I wait for Canada Post to send me the parts I was shipped) I will post some pictures this evening
those are great prints... cool It would be great if you could post your marlin files. after you have tweeked them. It will have black and orange parts, just in time for Halloween

Cheers, and thanks again for all the info

Question about the Endstops provided in the kit...
i suspect they just plug in using the following info:

Green goes to the S on the ramps,
black is negative, in the middle - on ramps.
Red is Postive on the end + on ramps

the connection on the switch is keyed, and the pins are labled on the ramps S - + so I should be fine

nice end stops... did you see this end stop holder on thingiverse: [thingiverse.com]

it's made for sainsmart end stop which is a clone of the endstop included with the kit.

i almost hate to ask, but could you take a short video of it in operation? especially of the extruder...
the prints above are pretty shiny is that pla or abs?

cheers and thanks again

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/12/2014 01:02PM by Waltermixx.

Yes those directions for wiring the endstops are correct. Green goes towards the outside of the board on the S rail and red goes towards the inside.

I've seen a few different designs for endstop mounts but honestly the ones in the kit work decently enough. I'll probably try some other designs out eventually. I really need a spool holder first.

I'm printing with SainSmart black 1.75mm ABS filament that I got from amazon. There's a few bubbles every once in a while but overall I'd say its some really good stuff, its also priced very well.

I'll get a video of it some time tonight when I am making some prints.

A heads up to people who are also confused about what VRef to run with these motors. After much trial and error my settings are like this:
x axis: ~130mV
y axis: ~300mV
z axis: ~250mV
extruder: ~180mV

Your mileage may vary. I found these values by turning the VRef down to about 50mV and then using Pronterface to move the axis. I kept turning it up until I could get the speed I needed. Remember not to turn the trim pot on the controller unless the motors are off!

Okie doke, with the help of a local makerbot replicator 2 a buddy and I printed off some parts for the kit so I could get started. (waiting on parts in the mail is no fun, so we printed a few of our own)
here are some pictures from the build thus far.

[www.flickr.com]

lots of photo's of it in it's current state...
I added lock washers between the nut and provided washer on all the base parts.
I also printed a y-endstop from thingiverse that holds the endstops provided in the kit in a great spot securely
enjoy the photo's and let me know if you have any questions

I noticed your y endstop is at the front of your Prusa i3. Is your zero (home) front left corner instead of Rear right?
(does it matter?) I suspect one flips the wiring on the stepper and the position of the end stop to deturmine that...


I think i would prefer Front Left to be zero (home)

Hi guys,

Just ordered one of these as my second printer as well. My primary at the moment is an UP! Mini. Looking forward to the project.

FYI for anyone thinking about buying, I asked the seller if I could pay them to pre-cut the rods and they told me that for all new orders the rods will be pre-cut they just haven't updated the listing text yet.

Quote
Waltermixx
I noticed your y endstop is at the front of your Prusa i3. Is your zero (home) front left corner instead of Rear right?
(does it matter?) I suspect one flips the wiring on the stepper and the position of the end stop to deturmine that...


I think i would prefer Front Left to be zero (home)

Well, I hadn't really thought of which way to put. I just put it towards the front and it worked with the default Marlin settings and with the way I wired my motors. I've only printed symmetrical parts so far so I'm not sure if that's the correct orientation or not.

Your build is looking great so far, I like the orange pieces! I might give that endstop holder a try, the one I have is really fidgety and almost impossible to adjust since you have to move it against the threads on the rod.

Quote
dooms101
A heads up to people who are also confused about what VRef to run with these motors. After much trial and error my settings are like this:
x axis: ~130mV
y axis: ~300mV
z axis: ~250mV
extruder: ~180mV

Your mileage may vary. I found these values by turning the VRef down to about 50mV and then using Pronterface to move the axis. I kept turning it up until I could get the speed I needed. Remember not to turn the trim pot on the controller unless the motors are off!

After a few more prints I think these values are too low for the speeds I'm running at. These values work well for slow prints (~80mm/s) and keep the motors nice and cool, but for higher speeds I had to increase the values, especially for the extruder. I'll post what I end up with along with the Marlin settings I'm using. I assume others will this to be useful info.

Very Cool....

I'm just waiting for my x-axis pieces to print so I can get a bit further with the kit.
That's great that they are now cutting the pieces for everyone. ( I paid only $7.00, so I dont feel bad... )
It's a great kit.

Let us know when your kit arrives and post lots of pictures...

i will update my flickr feed once I have done more on the printer.... I still have to find a good cable wrap to keep it neat.

Will be sure to take lots of shots. In the mean time you can see some of my prints from the mini (and a bunch of other projects) here and some of my stuff posted on Thingiverse

Looking forward to getting into a more open system with a bit more flexibility.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/13/2014 07:49PM by czmorris.

i added more pictures to flickr same link above will get you to all of them

Folgertech updated their google drive site with all the .STL files for their kit in a zip file.
I've downloaded them and I am getting the x-end-idler and x-end-motor parts re-printed,
because i didn't like the ones i had printed locally... ( I bet the kit of folger printed parts comes in monday or tuesday, but I can't wait that long )

When the parts do arrive from Folgertech, I may switch some out, so I end up with a funky black and orange printer.
I still have to get some cable management wrap. I thought i had some already somewhere, i will have to look.

Dooms101 how did you secure your cable wrap to your extruder? looks good and it does not nook like there is any pressure on the connections to the hot end.

Waltermixx the pics look great.(Love the tray organization system you have there) I also like the orange look. Just used up the last of my orange filament on a few work projects and everyone loved the look.

Are any of you guys considering building an enclosure for this printer?

Not considering an enclosure yet... Evidently ABS printing is easier in an enclosure, but as long as the room is not drafty, i suspect it should be fine. My brother has an Afinia H480 and it does not use an enclosure and seems to print ABS fine. mind you the print bed is only 5.5" square, so that might be part of the reason why nothing warps... I think i will start without an enclosure, and then see how it goes... If I did build an enclosure i would want it in clear acrylic so it matches.

Cheers...

I doubt I will start off with one but based on my experience with my current printer I may decide to come up with something later.
I don't mind the PLA smell but when doing large ABS or Nylon prints I prefer to use an enclosure to help with the fumes. It makes a huge difference with fumes/smell on my current setup.

I usually only have minor warping on larger prints and with certain filament brands. In this case the enclosure does certainly make a difference though. (Leaving the door open makes it worse)
The mini uses the same extruder as the Afinia you mentioned but has a 4.7" X 4.7" print bed which isn't really controlled very well. (and no manual control of temp)
The biggest thing that helps with warping for me is using perf board, having the best Cal possible, and a good pre-heat with the enclosure closed.

I suspect that the reprap will be better from the start with warping as I will have more control over the temps. We will see though.

I was also considering a clear acrylic or maybe a combo of black MDF and clear acrylic for the door.

I've managed to get a few good prints using ABS without an enclosure and I wasn't getting warping at all. However, I've suddenly been plagued with my corners warping and I'm going crazy adjusting everything I can to get back to good prints. I suspect that it might be something to do with the weather lately. I print in my apartment and I usually have the windows open, it's been really cold out lately and I bet that doesn't help.

I'm considering constructing an enclosure. I'd imagine it would also really help with getting the heated bed up to temp, right now I use a cardboard cover that I made to help enclose it until it heats up. The only issue with an enclosure is that it'd be difficult to enclose only the printing area and leave out the rest of the components.

dooms101,

If this is a continuing problem for you, consider something like this. It would likely have to be cut to size to fit the folger reprap but I imagine it would work as well or better than it does on my mini. I am planning on trying it when I get mine. There are many recommended methods but this one is fairly clean and doesn't involve tape or spray if it works out well.

Your assumption about the warm up time is correct. With my current printer when it is closed up it warms much faster. (I check it every now and then with an IR temp sensor) as there isn't feedback on the current printer.

I sometimes have luck preventing part warps by adjusting my rafting layers and such but I am guessing you have already tried this.

Just curious. What ABS supplier are you using? I have been using the brand labeled "Gizmo Dorks" from Amazon and I have had pretty good luck with that as it seems to be fairly consistent.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/14/2014 07:24PM by czmorris.

I printed these little Z-axis grommets for the top of the Pruza i3. The whole that the M5 treaded rod goes through is pretty big.
So I thought a bright orange grommet would look nice in there. When I created them, I did it with two different sized inside diameters.

One turned out to be way to tight, the other one was ok, but it did have to be drilled out a bit with a 7/32" drill bit... I used the really tight one
upside down on the top of the threaded rod as a cap/knob to make turning the rods easier by hand when neccessary

I may have to glue the grommets in place incase they begin to rise with the spinning Z rods, but so far they have not.



Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 09/14/2014 09:32PM by Waltermixx.

Quote
czmorris
dooms101,

If this is a continuing problem for you, consider something like this. It would likely have to be cut to size to fit the folger reprap but I imagine it would work as well or better than it does on my mini. I am planning on trying it when I get mine. There are many recommended methods but this one is fairly clean and doesn't involve tape or spray if it works out well.

Your assumption about the warm up time is correct. With my current printer when it is closed up it warms much faster. (I check it every now and then with an IR temp sensor) as there isn't feedback on the current printer.

I sometimes have luck preventing part warps by adjusting my rafting layers and such but I am guessing you have already tried this.

Just curious. What ABS supplier are you using? I have been using the brand labeled "Gizmo Dorks" from Amazon and I have had pretty good luck with that as it seems to be fairly consistent.

Right now I'm using a piece of polystyrene but maybe it isn't doing enough. What material is that board you linked to?

The ABS I'm using is the black SainSmart spool from Amazon. It seems to have pretty decent reviews.

Quote
dooms101

Quote
czmorris
dooms101,

If this is a continuing problem for you, consider something like this. It would likely have to be cut to size to fit the folger reprap but I imagine it would work as well or better than it does on my mini. I am planning on trying it when I get mine. There are many recommended methods but this one is fairly clean and doesn't involve tape or spray if it works out well.

Your assumption about the warm up time is correct. With my current printer when it is closed up it warms much faster. (I check it every now and then with an IR temp sensor) as there isn't feedback on the current printer.

I sometimes have luck preventing part warps by adjusting my rafting layers and such but I am guessing you have already tried this.

Just curious. What ABS supplier are you using? I have been using the brand labeled "Gizmo Dorks" from Amazon and I have had pretty good luck with that as it seems to be fairly consistent.

Right now I'm using a piece of polystyrene but maybe it isn't doing enough. What material is that board you linked to?

The ABS I'm using is the black SainSmart spool from Amazon. It seems to have pretty decent reviews.

Not 100% sure of the exact material but I am pretty sure that it is basically PCB substrate with no copper (possibly fiberglass). The original ones were even PCB proto color. This is more like the more glossy black material you see on some PCBs. The rafting or first layer of the ABS goes into the holes and gives it more surface area to stick. The cell board goes directly on the heat bed on the mini, slides in from the front and is removed for taking the part off. It is worth noting that the heat bed on the mini only goes up to about 65 C.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/15/2014 06:25PM by czmorris.