Folger Prusa i3 Kit from ebay

This has been a great thread and I'm so glad I found it. I ordered this kit last Thursday night and am super excited to receivet it. This will be my first 3D printer project, but I've got patience and some skill and experience on my side building things and soldering and working with electronics so I'm not a complete idiot. Thanks so much to all of you for finding many of the gotchas in the printer and posting them here. I'll make sure to go through them all as I put the kit together in the hopes that I get everything just right right out of the gate.

I did order the LCD 2004 kit from Folger Tech as well (and a spool of ABS) and I'll make sure I re-read this all again before I start building the kit.

If there is anyone in the north of Tampa area, FL that has a 3D printer whose brain I could pick occasionally, that would be appreciated too (sometimes it's easier for me to see how things actually work rather than reading diagrams). Anyway, thanks a lot to all of you!

Not sure if I mentioned it before, but this guy (Tom ) has an awesome series of youtube videos on using setting up Marlin firmware so you can use an LCD display,
along with tips on how to set things up these video's are a great way to start.

[www.youtube.com]

here is the one on adding an LCD with SD card.

[www.youtube.com]


lots of good timps.

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 10/28/2014 12:18PM by Waltermixx.

Waltermixx, if you do manage a way to export your settings, I think it would be great to benchmark to fine tune my settings. Your prints seem to be problem free! I notice you are using ABS, where did you order your filament from? Any smell associated with the filament you are using?

And for those of you messing around with the hot end, do not over tighten it....See below for what can happen. (Had a bit too much hear and a little too much force when installing the threaded portion, the heat throat snapped like a piece of spaghetti.

Anyone have any experience with Folger's all metal hot end? Seems really cheap compared to the others? Also looking into the prometheus hot end as it is local and I could get up and running sooner.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/28/2014 11:39PM by AKFoddy7.

Quote
Waltermixx
Not sure if I mentioned it before, but this guy (Tom ) has an awesome series of youtube videos on using setting up Marlin firmware so you can use an LCD display,
along with tips on how to set things up these video's are a great way to start.

[www.youtube.com]

here is the one on adding an LCD with SD card.

[www.youtube.com]


lots of good timps.

Thanks, I'll be sure to check those out along with these videos which are specifically for this printer!

[www.youtube.com]

I've used the stock one from them from the beginning and only had one possible 'air print'. On an over night print I woke up to the printer still happly printing away albeit half to an inch above the parts on the bed. I pulled the plug and looked at it later that evening but after I heated up the extruder and was able to pump out ABS with no problem I'm still not sure why it happened. The only issues I've had have been the bearings sliding out of the bed mounts, fixed with zip ties and a few new holes and a problem with the x axis slipping a few times. I've been having problems getting the belt tight enough or something else slipping causing the belt to loosen a bit and then I get prints that start looking like a step pyramid, well on one side that is. I've been meaning to print another version of the x bearing mount that hase a way to tighten the belt but have not gotten around to it yet.

Quote
AKFoddy7
Waltermixx, if you do manage a way to export your settings, I think it would be great to benchmark to fine tune my settings. Your prints seem to be problem free! I notice you are using ABS, where did you order your filament from? Any smell associated with the filament you are using?

And for those of you messing around with the hot end, do not over tighten it....See below for what can happen. (Had a bit too much hear and a little too much force when installing the threaded portion, the heat throat snapped like a piece of spaghetti.

Anyone have any experience with Folger's all metal hot end? Seems really cheap?

link appears to be brocken... can you correct it?

Has anyone here bought the new E3d v6 hot end?

Waiting to get my kit, ordered it with the graphical LCD, and think the E3D hot end looks to be the cats ass, could cure up a lot of the issues I've read in here.

Updated the link. I wasn't really having issues with it, my guess is it was user error and the fan shutting off during the print. I thought I would try and fix it....but didn't work as planned.

Picked up a brass tube, but I need to make the thermal barrier. Might try to get some PTFE material and see what I can put together...If not, I need to get something soon!

Double Post

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/28/2014 11:46PM by AKFoddy7.

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czmorris
Before I saw your last post I modified the bearing mount during my lunch hour for the half cylinder idea I was talking about. Added the update as another file on Thingiverse. I will do a test print just to confirm the model when I get home.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:513656

I printed one of these off, and it looks good: capped Y bearing holder. There are no frame clearance issues.

I had to rotate the model so that it was sitting on its base - printing it vertically was problematic as the cap ends are slightly proud.

Quote
Gannicus
Has anyone here bought the new E3d v6 hot end?

Waiting to get my kit, ordered it with the graphical LCD, and think the E3D hot end looks to be the cats ass, could cure up a lot of the issues I've read in here.

I have an E3D V6 (tho not on a folger but a very similar I3 printer) and can safely say that they are the Dogs Danglies if you get what I mean they are superb so much so I have purchased one of E3D's 4 head setups called the Kraken.

The Kraken Hot End

Doug

Quote
jjbunn

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czmorris
Before I saw your last post I modified the bearing mount during my lunch hour for the half cylinder idea I was talking about. Added the update as another file on Thingiverse. I will do a test print just to confirm the model when I get home.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:513656

I printed one of these off, and it looks good: capped Y bearing holder. There are no frame clearance issues.

I had to rotate the model so that it was sitting on its base - printing it vertically was problematic as the cap ends are slightly proud.

Good news. Thanks for trying it out and for the idea about the ends. Printed mine on the base as well (Forgot to rotate it before creating the stl). I attempted to make it so that the LM8UU fits snug. I have been running mine without any zip ties in place at all just to see how well it would work. So far no issues. Though I would recommend adding the zip ties for anyone installing it.

When I get a chance I am planning on moving the holes for the zip ties closer in as Waltermixx suggested. That might make for a better hold and less force on the thin edge of the hole.

Quote
czmorris

Quote
jjbunn

Quote
czmorris
Before I saw your last post I modified the bearing mount during my lunch hour for the half cylinder idea I was talking about. Added the update as another file on Thingiverse. I will do a test print just to confirm the model when I get home.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:513656

I printed one of these off, and it looks good: capped Y bearing holder. There are no frame clearance issues.

I had to rotate the model so that it was sitting on its base - printing it vertically was problematic as the cap ends are slightly proud.

Good news. Thanks for trying it out and for the idea about the ends. Printed mine on the base as well (Forgot to rotate it before creating the stl). I attempted to make it so that the LM8UU fits snug. I have been running mine without any zip ties in place at all just to see how well it would work. So far no issues. Though I would recommend adding the zip ties for anyone installing it.

When I get a chance I am planning on moving the holes for the zip ties closer in as Waltermixx suggested. That might make for a better hold and less force on the thin edge of the hole.

I'm not sure the zip ties are necessary either, but I put them in anyway. The bearing fit is very nice and snug - but I wonder whether increasing the profile of the holder from 180 degrees to about 190 degrees (the bearing would snap in with minimal stress on the plastic), would be even better? For now I will run with this, and see how it holds up.

Quote
dougal1957

Quote
Gannicus
Has anyone here bought the new E3d v6 hot end?

Waiting to get my kit, ordered it with the graphical LCD, and think the E3D hot end looks to be the cats ass, could cure up a lot of the issues I've read in here.

I have an E3D V6 (tho not on a folger but a very similar I3 printer) and can safely say that they are the Dogs Danglies if you get what I mean they are superb so much so I have purchased one of E3D's 4 head setups called the Kraken.

The Kraken Hot End

Doug

This is exactly what I was wondering thanks. I have a feeling that I'll be picking that up once I get the hang of ABS.
How do you like the Kraken? You installed this on an i3? How was the install and configuration? Any videos?

How do you find it with PLA? I haven't heard of too many good reviews of the all metal hot ends with PLA>

By the way, for those of you printing with ABS, how bad is the smell?

Ok, this is becoming annoying, I'm using repetier host to see if the issues I'm having might be related to cura and I had the same X carriage skip I've been having whenever I try to do a large area print. I had thought originally it was because I didn't have the belt tight enough but after I took it apart again and worked on it a bit I was able to get is, what I think, a very tight belt but it still happened. I'm using the settings posted here for the motors and ramps board and small items print well, even larger items do but it seems that when I get either multiple items or items that take up most of the print bed then I run into the skipping. Any thoughts? It's very annoying as I'll print some small test cubes and everything works well, even when I up the feed rate 200% using the control panel but the moment I try something of useful size I either get it during the skirt print or it waits until a few layers print then it does it.

Where do I go next?

Quote
AKFoddy7
How do you find it with PLA? I haven't heard of too many good reviews of the all metal hot ends with PLA>

By the way, for those of you printing with ABS, how bad is the smell?

I haven't had any issues with PLA so far on this machine. Handles it far better than my UP mini.

I don't really notice the ABS smell much though I am still planning on putting together an enclosure in order to reduce the amount we might breath in.

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Wpflum
Ok, this is becoming annoying, I'm using repetier host to see if the issues I'm having might be related to cura and I had the same X carriage skip I've been having whenever I try to do a large area print. I had thought originally it was because I didn't have the belt tight enough but after I took it apart again and worked on it a bit I was able to get is, what I think, a very tight belt but it still happened. I'm using the settings posted here for the motors and ramps board and small items print well, even larger items do but it seems that when I get either multiple items or items that take up most of the print bed then I run into the skipping. Any thoughts? It's very annoying as I'll print some small test cubes and everything works well, even when I up the feed rate 200% using the control panel but the moment I try something of useful size I either get it during the skirt print or it waits until a few layers print then it does it.

Where do I go next?

Do you have a picture of a print with the problem or maybe a short video clip?

Without knowing more a few shots in the dark...

-Check the wire terminations of the stepper on the pre-made side. This usually causes more jerky type behaviour but worth a shot.

-If you have steppers disabled and attempt to move the axis by hand do you feel any resistance?

-You might try replacing the stepper driver with the spare for a test and re-tuning vref.

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czmorris

Quote
Wpflum
Ok, this is becoming annoying, I'm using repetier host to see if the issues I'm having might be related to cura and I had the same X carriage skip I've been having whenever I try to do a large area print. I had thought originally it was because I didn't have the belt tight enough but after I took it apart again and worked on it a bit I was able to get is, what I think, a very tight belt but it still happened. I'm using the settings posted here for the motors and ramps board and small items print well, even larger items do but it seems that when I get either multiple items or items that take up most of the print bed then I run into the skipping. Any thoughts? It's very annoying as I'll print some small test cubes and everything works well, even when I up the feed rate 200% using the control panel but the moment I try something of useful size I either get it during the skirt print or it waits until a few layers print then it does it.

Where do I go next?

Do you have a picture of a print with the problem or maybe a short video clip?

Without knowing more a few shots in the dark...

-Check the wire terminations of the stepper on the pre-made side. This usually causes more jerky type behaviour but worth a shot.

-If you have steppers disabled and attempt to move the axis by hand do you feel any resistance?

-You might try replacing the stepper driver with the spare for a test and re-tuning vref.

I occasionally get a step in my Y Axis usually halfway or more into a long print and it is very annoying but mine is I believe due to some shaking of the bench it is on and slightly loose connector on the Y Stepper motor wires where they connect to the Ramps board May be worth checking that they are nice and secure.

HTH

Doug

I get this message when trying to move my stepper motors

echo:endstops hit:  Y:-99.09
echo:endstops hit:  Y:-99.07
echo:endstops hit:  Y:-99.06
echo:endstops hit:  Y:-99.05
echo:endstops hit:  Y:-99.04
echo:endstops hit:  Y:-99.02
echo:endstops hit:  Y:-99.02
echo:endstops hit:  Y:-99.04
echo:endstops hit:  Y:-99.05
echo:endstops hit:  Y:-99.06
echo:endstops hit:  Y:-99.07
echo:endstops hit:  Y:-99.09
echo:endstops hit:  Y:-99.07
echo:endstops hit:  Y:-99.06
echo:endstops hit:  Z:0.00

I also get this message if i remove the endstop from ramp board.

I checked the wiring, and the end stop lights red
I also measured the voltage to check the switch

When sending M119 i get this

17:17:08.439 : Reporting endstop status
17:17:08.439 : x_min: open
17:17:08.439 : x_max: TRIGGERED
17:17:08.439 : y_min: open
17:17:08.439 : y_max: TRIGGERED
17:17:08.439 : z_min: open
17:17:08.439 : z_max: TRIGGERED

Any suggestions?

Quote
eoiser
I get this message when trying to move my stepper motors

echo:endstops hit:  Y:-99.09
echo:endstops hit:  Y:-99.07
echo:endstops hit:  Y:-99.06
echo:endstops hit:  Y:-99.05
echo:endstops hit:  Y:-99.04
echo:endstops hit:  Y:-99.02
echo:endstops hit:  Y:-99.02
echo:endstops hit:  Y:-99.04
echo:endstops hit:  Y:-99.05
echo:endstops hit:  Y:-99.06
echo:endstops hit:  Y:-99.07
echo:endstops hit:  Y:-99.09
echo:endstops hit:  Y:-99.07
echo:endstops hit:  Y:-99.06
echo:endstops hit:  Z:0.00

I also get this message if i remove the endstop from ramp board.

I checked the wiring, and the end stop lights red
I also measured the voltage to check the switch

When sending M119 i get this

17:17:08.439 : Reporting endstop status
17:17:08.439 : x_min: open
17:17:08.439 : x_max: TRIGGERED
17:17:08.439 : y_min: open
17:17:08.439 : y_max: TRIGGERED
17:17:08.439 : z_min: open
17:17:08.439 : z_max: TRIGGERED

Any suggestions?

Basically what is happening is it thinks you are triggering an endstop on the Max move end.
I can't remember the exact verbiage but there is a part of the Marlin code where you have to tell it that you are using endstops only for x_min y_min z_min. I think it is as easy as setting something to false instead of true. I think if you ctrl-f(find) ans search for x_min it should take you to that part of the code. Also for me, I had to make the extruder motor be inverted(which is also set in that code). I believe those are the only two changes I had to make to the Marlin code on the arduino.


@WPflum
I had one print look like the x axis had a shift in it, but it shifted at the start of the print(maybe like layer 10). Ever since that print have have had no issues with shifting(i have only done a handful of prints since).

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/31/2014 04:12PM by deaddudehangin.

Do you remember in what file to edit?
I searched, but i found many variables with x_min and x_max, but none had a true or false statement

the configuration.h file.
that is the only file you want to ever edit. Unless you reallllllyyyyyy know what you are doing

The code with x_min and max in configuration.h is

#define X_MAX_POS 200
#define X_MIN_POS 0
#define Y_MAX_POS 200
#define Y_MIN_POS 0
#define Z_MAX_POS 185
#define Z_MIN_POS 0

#define X_MAX_LENGTH (X_MAX_POS - X_MIN_POS)
#define Y_MAX_LENGTH (Y_MAX_POS - Y_MIN_POS)
#define Z_MAX_LENGTH (Z_MAX_POS - Z_MIN_POS)

in configuration_adv.h i have

//X axis
  #if X_HOME_DIR == -1
    #ifdef BED_CENTER_AT_0_0
      #define X_HOME_POS X_MAX_LENGTH * -0.5
    #else
      #define X_HOME_POS X_MIN_POS
    #endif //BED_CENTER_AT_0_0
  #else    
    #ifdef BED_CENTER_AT_0_0
      #define X_HOME_POS X_MAX_LENGTH * 0.5
    #else
      #define X_HOME_POS X_MAX_POS
    #endif //BED_CENTER_AT_0_0
  #endif //X_HOME_DIR == -1

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/31/2014 05:05PM by eoiser.

Haven't been around in a couple of days, and now I'm going into nights, so I might try and get this thing up and running when I get home in the morning - wind down time before I crash). It's nice to see there are some not too far from me - Waltermixx; AKFoddy7. I'm just outside of Peterborough (can't stand the city), and caved: I drove out to A2A, and while their site only shows the one model of A4988, they actually do have in stock the same one for this kit (for $13 +tx) - it just took them a while to find it.
At least I have 2 in hand now to try again.
Thanks again for the help and input. I will take a look at those links.
I'd say goodnight, but I have 12 hours ahead of me still.
Happy Halloween!

Just ordered another set of the stepper drivers, one of mine is toast (The pot only seats when I apply pressure). $10 for 4 from Hong Kong, figure if they work it will be good to have them as spares. I managed to order a J-Head hot end from Ontario. should be here Tuesday.

And for Eoiser, You want to remove the // from the disablemaxendstops (That is is you are using all min endstops).

It is in the Configuration.h file.

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AKFoddy7
Just ordered another set of the stepper drivers, one of mine is toast (The pot only seats when I apply pressure). $10 for 4 from Hong Kong, figure if they work it will be good to have them as spares. I managed to order a J-Head hot end from Ontario. should be here Tuesday.

And for Eoiser, You want to remove the // from the disablemaxendstops (That is is you are using all min endstops).

It is in the Configuration.h file.

yes that is what it is, that is commented out. just remove the "//"

Thank you, that worked.
My next problem is i set my Z endstop to activate when the nozzle is just above the bed (home z). But when i start a a print i goes 10mm or so above the bed and prints

Finally got a chance to work on it again and found that my vref for the x driver was way off and the others were not where I left them either but were closer. Is it possible for them to 'move' with use? My vref for the X was very low compared to what it was supposed to be so I fixed them all and tried again. This time I got to the point several layers up that I was thinking about leaving the room when I heard the 'clunk' and by the time I got to the printer the x axis was off 5mm so I pulled the plug. Moving the carriage by hand with it unplugged I can feel regular binding about 8 to 9 cm apart across the entire length of the X axis so I'm guessing this is what is causing the jump. When I'm doing small parts most of the x movement is at print speed but with larger parts or groups of parts the gcode tries to use the travel speed and the binding affects it more, I guessing. I don't remember this binding when I first built and mounted the carriage so maybe after getting the printer all together I have something slightly twisted or some other problem cropped up that I'm unaware of. Time to disassemble again. I'm actually hopping it's the bearings since I now have another 10 extra to play with, I've been slowly building up spares with cheap parts off of ebay since after build the printer I can now see where the failure points are and what would be best to have on hand to repair it quickly instead of waiting for weeks for a cheap part or paying through the nose to get a part quickly so I can keep printing.

Quote
eoiser
Thank you, that worked.
My next problem is i set my Z endstop to activate when the nozzle is just above the bed (home z). But when i start a a print i goes 10mm or so above the bed and prints

check what your slicer adds to the to the start of your gcode. I believe by default it adds a move up command while it heats up, but i could of sworn it moves down after that. Also what i did was have it extrude about 5mm then retract 3, to prime the print head. This helped me alot because some times i would be starting a print and no PLA would be extruding until a while after.