Folger Prusa i3 Kit from ebay

Wheeeeeee, well maybe After I removed the belt the carriage slid back and forth nice and clean, no grabbing at all, and after a bit of probing I discovered that the idler pully was binding because I had the bolt that holds it in too tight and it had pulled the walls of the end piece in a bit. I guessing the ratio of the grabbing to smooth is roughtly the circumference of the pully. I loosened up the bolt and now the carriage dosen't grab, just the normal constant drag from the motor and the pulley. I crossed my fingers and ran a 2 hour print that I've been trying to do for a couple of weeks and I woke up this morning to a finished print with no offsets.

I wont be completely happy though until I get a chance to run a couple of more long prints to make sure it wasn't a fluke but I'm hopeful. It'll be nice to start a print and not wake up to a complete mess.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/04/2014 09:13AM by Wpflum.

You should post a picture of your print

I thought I was there...

After replacing my mucked up stepper motor drivers, I finally got all of my motors working correctly. Everything seems to be moving good. I go my hot end to heat up no problemo. Getting sooo excited!!

... and then, I wasn't.

Problemo a. My bed seems extremely slow to heat. Originally, I only had the one(+12) and three (-) pins wired in, but everyone seemed to be saying to tie 1 (12V) & 2 (24V) together, which I have done; but it didn't seem to make any difference in performance - maybe even worse. I didn't do that wrong did I? Beyond about 66c it seems to be painfully slow to heat.

Numero b. The extruder refuses to extrude. On both Repetier and Pronterface I have tried to no avail. When my Z is up so I can see what is going on, I'll click on extrude, and nothing happens. You can see the ABS move up and down minutely at the entrance port, but it does not seem to want to proceed. I thought maybe it wasn't grabbing, and just needed some gentle persuasion. In doing so, there were times where it seemed to move forward, but then stopped again. Then I attempted a little less gentle persuasion (no hammer yet), and material was finally extruding, however, it seems to be completely under my own power. After a few attempts, changing from the included sample material to a reel of ABS I purchased, setting the extrude distance to 100 mm, and while it went chug chug chug, I added some force to the material on and off. No change. Also, just to be sure, I hit reverse to make sure I didn't have anything backwards, and while it still didn't move very far, it indeed felt like it was attempting to move it backwards - but like it wasn't grabbing the material.

As a final check, I swapped my extruder and Z motor drivers to make sure I didn't have ANOTHER bad one, and while Z worked fine, there was no change in extrusion.

I would LOVE some input into what I could be doing wrong, what settings might be buggered, or, worst case, what could be wrong with my extruder. It doesn't come across as plugged since I'm getting curlie cues under my own pressure, but it just doesn't seem to be gripping the material.

HELP! Please (and thank you).

I have my bed wired the same way and initially it heated up pretty quickly but over time it seems to take longer to get to the 110c I've been using for ABS. I saw somewhere on this forum that if you keep stressing the mosfet driving the port that it starts to heat up and cycle more so it takes longer to heat. I hung a 40mm fan onto the ramps board to help with the overheating and I'm back to a quicker heat up, still not as fast as originally but better.

As to the extruder unfortunately I'm not in a position to help since mine, KNOCK ON WOOD!!!!!, has worked pretty well right out of the box. If you read back in this thread you'll see where some people have had issues with it stopping extruding during a print to the point they took it apart and reworked it. I am finding out that on bigger prints unless I keep the fan going it will stop extruding, I'm guessing since both cura and repetier both keep the fan slowed down for the first couple layers the heat creeps up from the hot end and softens the filament at the drive end. I just had one print fail because it just stopped putting out plastic. When I cooled down the extruder and then brought it back up to 230c I had no problem getting plastic out. I haven't found out yet where to change this in the slicers so I just manually edited the gcode to keep the fan on all the time and the print is going on now so I wont know until tomorrow if it worked.

Do you have an LCD on the printer? I was having problems with Cura so it was real nice to be able to jog the extruder around manually and be able to test extruding and bed heat without a PC involved.

Quote
Wpflum
...

Do you have an LCD on the printer? I was having problems with Cura so it was real nice to be able to jog the extruder around manually and be able to test extruding and bed heat without a PC involved.

Would you share your changes to configuration.h that you made to support the LCD? I have the 4 line display on mine, but it only works when USB is powered on the Arduino. When the USB is detached, the LCD display turns off, and a green LED on the RAMPS flickers. I think this is a power supply issue, but I don't have any other problems than this.

Thanks!

Hello guys,
Finally got the package yesterday and immediately started assembling the printer. Then some issues started arising. One of the triangular acryllic parts came broken and the printed part under the bed that holds the belt was missing. I notified the seller and i am waiting for an answer. The problem is that I am in Greece and it will take ages for the parts to arrive. So I glued the acryllic bit and hope for it to hold until any replacement arrive, but for the printed part I am thinking of trying this:
WP_20141105_14_42_20_Pro by kgeorge1989, on Flickr

Do you think it will work? The nearest 3d printer that i know is 300km from me and it will take 15-20 dollars to print the part!

All I had to do is unremark one line in the marlin code to get mine working. I have the qraphical version and it's always on wether or not I have the usb plugged in when I have the power supply on. I recall seeing something on this board somewhere about your specific issue with only having the display when the usb is plugged in but I don't remember where.

I regret my earlier enthusiasm with an obvious anomally of a good big print, I tried to print a case for the electronics that had a fan in it and I had at least 80-90 percent of the bed covered with the top and bottom of the case and it blew up real good. I'll take a picture tonight and post it but it looked like, at 4 am in the morning so I could have missed something, that I had another X slip about halfway through so now I have what looked to be a good top, it was past finishing that piece, and half a bottom with a birds nest on top.

I think I might try and print out a new set of the X carriage parts, one at a time should work, and then completely replace it and the bearings and timing belt. At this point it's so random that I really do not have any clue what I can do to zero in on the problem. Figured I'd also replace the stepper driver with the spare while I'm at it as well.

It is getting kinda annoying, she flirts with me like she's going to put out then slaps me in the face and knees me in the groin for good measure

WPFLUM
I will have to get a fan for my RAMPs / Arduino boards it sounds like. As for my extruder fan, I have it wired into the power supply so it is always on. It sounded like some people had hooked it up where the power goes into the RAMPs board, but there were so many wires there, I just directed it to the other side of the printer.

I don't have an LCD setup yet. I was hoping to get it working first, but I'm around 3 weeks in with no joy yet. That's partly real life getting in the way, but I also keep hitting snags. I will try next to pull things apart and see if something is off. I keep trying to read through the forum, but after a few pages my eyes start to go blurry, so thanks for the tip.

KONTO89
Just a tip for contacting FolgerTech / SideWinderInc: do it through email / the form on their web page, not through eBay. I found their eBay response was slow and unpredictable, but from the website, it was helpful.
FolgerTech Contact Page

Quote
NukedWorker
WPFLUM
I will have to get a fan for my RAMPs / Arduino boards it sounds like. As for my extruder fan, I have it wired into the power supply so it is always on. It sounded like some people had hooked it up where the power goes into the RAMPs board, but there were so many wires there, I just directed it to the other side of the printer.

I don't have an LCD setup yet. I was hoping to get it working first, but I'm around 3 weeks in with no joy yet. That's partly real life getting in the way, but I also keep hitting snags. I will try next to pull things apart and see if something is off. I keep trying to read through the forum, but after a few pages my eyes start to go blurry, so thanks for the tip.

WPFLUM I have my fan set up the same way(directly to the power supply) So far the only 'problem' I had out of the box with my extruder was in the arduino code the extrude and retract was reversed(I took what they had on the google drive). Have you checked to see if is is making it through the extruder? There is a space between the black piece the motor connects to and the metal hotend. I know when I take my filament out and put it back in I have to make sure it goes through the hole for the hotend, sometimes it get hung up on it and hits the top of it.
Other than that I would check your vref for the motor, Almost sounds like it could be just moving back and forth rather than moving in a single direction, which is normally a vref or timing problem.

The more I think of it the more I like it since the best practice for me seems to be to have both the extruder fan and the ramps fan on at all times.

I think you got me mixed up with NukedWorker as I've only had a couple of air print issues, probably related to the extruder fan being off, but he was having a problem with getting it to extrude at all. It does sound like a vref problem and not filament misallignment since he is able to manually push the filament through and get it to extrude, that or a wiring issue but I pretty sure he said he double checked both and swapped out the driver at least once.

To crudely put in in terms like I used earlier I think his isn't even flirting with him and has a chasty belt on to boot.

Quote
Wpflum
All I had to do is unremark one line in the marlin code to get mine working. I have the qraphical version and it's always on wether or not I have the usb plugged in when I have the power supply on. I recall seeing something on this board somewhere about your specific issue with only having the display when the usb is plugged in but I don't remember where.

...

Interesting ... I had to make several changes to the Marlin config to get mine to do anything more than just show the main screen.

Here's my configuration.h in case someone can spot the problem:

#ifndef CONFIGURATION_H
#define CONFIGURATION_H

// This configuration file contains the basic settings.
// Advanced settings can be found in Configuration_adv.h
// BASIC SETTINGS: select your board type, temperature sensor type, axis scaling, and endstop configuration

//===========================================================================
//============================= DELTA Printer ===============================
//===========================================================================
// For a Delta printer replace the configuration files with the files in the
// example_configurations/delta directory.
//

//===========================================================================
//============================= SCARA Printer ===============================
//===========================================================================
// For a Delta printer replace the configuration files with the files in the
// example_configurations/SCARA directory.
//

// User-specified version info of this build to display in [Pronterface, etc] terminal window during
// startup. Implementation of an idea by Prof Braino to inform user that any changes made to this
// build by the user have been successfully uploaded into firmware.
#define STRING_VERSION_CONFIG_H __DATE__ " " __TIME__ // build date and time
#define STRING_CONFIG_H_AUTHOR "JJBunn" // Who made the changes.

// SERIAL_PORT selects which serial port should be used for communication with the host.
// This allows the connection of wireless adapters (for instance) to non-default port pins.
// Serial port 0 is still used by the Arduino bootloader regardless of this setting.
#define SERIAL_PORT 0

// This determines the communication speed of the printer
#define BAUDRATE 250000

// This enables the serial port associated to the Bluetooth interface
//#define BTENABLED              // Enable BT interface on AT90USB devices


//// The following define selects which electronics board you have. Please choose the one that matches your setup
// 10 = Gen7 custom (Alfons3 Version) "https://github.com/Alfons3/Generation_7_Electronics"
// 11 = Gen7 v1.1, v1.2 = 11
// 12 = Gen7 v1.3
// 13 = Gen7 v1.4
// 2  = Cheaptronic v1.0
// 20 = Sethi 3D_1
// 3  = MEGA/RAMPS up to 1.2 = 3
// 33 = RAMPS 1.3 / 1.4 (Power outputs: Extruder, Fan, Bed)
// 34 = RAMPS 1.3 / 1.4 (Power outputs: Extruder0, Extruder1, Bed)
// 35 = RAMPS 1.3 / 1.4 (Power outputs: Extruder, Fan, Fan)
// 36 = RAMPS 1.3 / 1.4 (Power outputs: Extruder0, Extruder1, Fan)
// 4  = Duemilanove w/ ATMega328P pin assignment
// 5  = Gen6
// 51 = Gen6 deluxe
// 6  = Sanguinololu < 1.2
// 62 = Sanguinololu 1.2 and above
// 63 = Melzi
// 64 = STB V1.1
// 65 = Azteeg X1
// 66 = Melzi with ATmega1284 (MaKr3d version)
// 67 = Azteeg X3
// 68 = Azteeg X3 Pro
// 7  = Ultimaker
// 71 = Ultimaker (Older electronics. Pre 1.5.4. This is rare)
// 72 = Ultimainboard 2.x (Uses TEMP_SENSOR 20)
// 77 = 3Drag Controller
// 8  = Teensylu
// 80 = Rumba
// 81 = Printrboard (AT90USB1286)
// 82 = Brainwave (AT90USB646)
// 83 = SAV Mk-I (AT90USB1286)
// 84 = Teensy++2.0 (AT90USB1286) // CLI compile: DEFINES=AT90USBxx_TEENSYPP_ASSIGNMENTS HARDWARE_MOTHERBOARD=84  make
// 9  = Gen3+
// 70 = Megatronics
// 701= Megatronics v2.0
// 702= Minitronics v1.0
// 90 = Alpha OMCA board
// 91 = Final OMCA board
// 301= Rambo
// 21 = Elefu Ra Board (v3)
// 88 = 5DPrint D8 Driver Board
// 999 = Leapfrog

#ifndef MOTHERBOARD
   #define MOTHERBOARD 34
#endif

// Define this to set a custom name for your generic Mendel,
// #define CUSTOM_MENDEL_NAME "This Mendel"

// Define this to set a unique identifier for this printer, (Used by some programs to differentiate between machines)
// You can use an online service to generate a random UUID. (eg [www.uuidgenerator.net])
// #define MACHINE_UUID "00000000-0000-0000-0000-000000000000"

// This defines the number of extruders
#define EXTRUDERS 1

//// The following define selects which power supply you have. Please choose the one that matches your setup
// 1 = ATX
// 2 = X-Box 360 203Watts (the blue wire connected to PS_ON and the red wire to VCC)

#define POWER_SUPPLY 1

// Define this to have the electronics keep the power supply off on startup. If you don't know what this is leave it.
// #define PS_DEFAULT_OFF

//===========================================================================
//=============================Thermal Settings  ============================
//===========================================================================
//
//--NORMAL IS 4.7kohm PULLUP!-- 1kohm pullup can be used on hotend sensor, using correct resistor and table
//
//// Temperature sensor settings:
// -2 is thermocouple with MAX6675 (only for sensor 0)
// -1 is thermocouple with AD595
// 0 is not used
// 1 is 100k thermistor - best choice for EPCOS 100k (4.7k pullup)
// 2 is 200k thermistor - ATC Semitec 204GT-2 (4.7k pullup)
// 3 is Mendel-parts thermistor (4.7k pullup)
// 4 is 10k thermistor !! do not use it for a hotend. It gives bad resolution at high temp. !!
// 5 is 100K thermistor - ATC Semitec 104GT-2 (Used in ParCan & J-Head) (4.7k pullup)
// 6 is 100k EPCOS - Not as accurate as table 1 (created using a fluke thermocouple) (4.7k pullup)
// 7 is 100k Honeywell thermistor 135-104LAG-J01 (4.7k pullup)
// 71 is 100k Honeywell thermistor 135-104LAF-J01 (4.7k pullup)
// 8 is 100k 0603 SMD Vishay NTCS0603E3104FXT (4.7k pullup)
// 9 is 100k GE Sensing AL03006-58.2K-97-G1 (4.7k pullup)
// 10 is 100k RS thermistor 198-961 (4.7k pullup)
// 11 is 100k beta 3950 1% thermistor (4.7k pullup)
// 12 is 100k 0603 SMD Vishay NTCS0603E3104FXT (4.7k pullup) (calibrated for Makibox hot bed)
// 13 is 100k Hisens 3950  1% up to 300°C for hotend "Simple ONE " & "Hotend "All In ONE" 
// 20 is the PT100 circuit found in the Ultimainboard V2.x
// 60 is 100k Maker's Tool Works Kapton Bed Thermistor beta=3950
//
//    1k ohm pullup tables - This is not normal, you would have to have changed out your 4.7k for 1k
//                          (but gives greater accuracy and more stable PID)
// 51 is 100k thermistor - EPCOS (1k pullup)
// 52 is 200k thermistor - ATC Semitec 204GT-2 (1k pullup)
// 55 is 100k thermistor - ATC Semitec 104GT-2 (Used in ParCan & J-Head) (1k pullup)
//
// 1047 is Pt1000 with 4k7 pullup
// 1010 is Pt1000 with 1k pullup (non standard)
// 147 is Pt100 with 4k7 pullup
// 110 is Pt100 with 1k pullup (non standard)

#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 6
#define TEMP_SENSOR_1 0
#define TEMP_SENSOR_2 0
#define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 6

// This makes temp sensor 1 a redundant sensor for sensor 0. If the temperatures difference between these sensors is to high the print will be aborted.
//#define TEMP_SENSOR_1_AS_REDUNDANT
#define MAX_REDUNDANT_TEMP_SENSOR_DIFF 10

// Actual temperature must be close to target for this long before M109 returns success
#define TEMP_RESIDENCY_TIME 10  // (seconds)
#define TEMP_HYSTERESIS 3       // (degC) range of +/- temperatures considered "close" to the target one
#define TEMP_WINDOW     1       // (degC) Window around target to start the residency timer x degC early.

// The minimal temperature defines the temperature below which the heater will not be enabled It is used
// to check that the wiring to the thermistor is not broken.
// Otherwise this would lead to the heater being powered on all the time.
#define HEATER_0_MINTEMP 5
#define HEATER_1_MINTEMP 5
#define HEATER_2_MINTEMP 5
#define BED_MINTEMP 5

// When temperature exceeds max temp, your heater will be switched off.
// This feature exists to protect your hotend from overheating accidentally, but *NOT* from thermistor short/failure!
// You should use MINTEMP for thermistor short/failure protection.
#define HEATER_0_MAXTEMP 275
#define HEATER_1_MAXTEMP 275
#define HEATER_2_MAXTEMP 275
#define BED_MAXTEMP 150

// If your bed has low resistance e.g. .6 ohm and throws the fuse you can duty cycle it to reduce the
// average current. The value should be an integer and the heat bed will be turned on for 1 interval of
// HEATER_BED_DUTY_CYCLE_DIVIDER intervals.
#define HEATER_BED_DUTY_CYCLE_DIVIDER 4

// If you want the M105 heater power reported in watts, define the BED_WATTS, and (shared for all extruders) EXTRUDER_WATTS
//#define EXTRUDER_WATTS (12.0*12.0/6.7) //  P=I^2/R
//#define BED_WATTS (12.0*12.0/1.1)      // P=I^2/R

// PID settings:
// Comment the following line to disable PID and enable bang-bang.
#define PIDTEMP
#define BANG_MAX 255 // limits current to nozzle while in bang-bang mode; 255=full current
#define PID_MAX 255 // limits current to nozzle while PID is active (see PID_FUNCTIONAL_RANGE below); 255=full current
#ifdef PIDTEMP
  //#define PID_DEBUG // Sends debug data to the serial port.
  //#define PID_OPENLOOP 1 // Puts PID in open loop. M104/M140 sets the output power from 0 to PID_MAX
  #define PID_FUNCTIONAL_RANGE 10 // If the temperature difference between the target temperature and the actual temperature
                                  // is more then PID_FUNCTIONAL_RANGE then the PID will be shut off and the heater will be set to min/max.
  #define PID_INTEGRAL_DRIVE_MAX 255  //limit for the integral term
  #define K1 0.95 //smoothing factor within the PID
  #define PID_dT ((OVERSAMPLENR * 10.0)/(F_CPU / 64.0 / 256.0)) //sampling period of the temperature routine

// If you are using a pre-configured hotend then you can use one of the value sets by uncommenting it
// Ultimaker
    #define  DEFAULT_Kp 22.2
    #define  DEFAULT_Ki 1.08
    #define  DEFAULT_Kd 114

// MakerGear
//    #define  DEFAULT_Kp 7.0
//    #define  DEFAULT_Ki 0.1
//    #define  DEFAULT_Kd 12

// Mendel Parts V9 on 12V
//    #define  DEFAULT_Kp 63.0
//    #define  DEFAULT_Ki 2.25
//    #define  DEFAULT_Kd 440
#endif // PIDTEMP

// Bed Temperature Control
// Select PID or bang-bang with PIDTEMPBED. If bang-bang, BED_LIMIT_SWITCHING will enable hysteresis
//
// Uncomment this to enable PID on the bed. It uses the same frequency PWM as the extruder.
// If your PID_dT above is the default, and correct for your hardware/configuration, that means 7.689Hz,
// which is fine for driving a square wave into a resistive load and does not significantly impact you FET heating.
// This also works fine on a Fotek SSR-10DA Solid State Relay into a 250W heater.
// If your configuration is significantly different than this and you don't understand the issues involved, you probably
// shouldn't use bed PID until someone else verifies your hardware works.
// If this is enabled, find your own PID constants below.
//#define PIDTEMPBED
//
//#define BED_LIMIT_SWITCHING

// This sets the max power delivered to the bed, and replaces the HEATER_BED_DUTY_CYCLE_DIVIDER option.
// all forms of bed control obey this (PID, bang-bang, bang-bang with hysteresis)
// setting this to anything other than 255 enables a form of PWM to the bed just like HEATER_BED_DUTY_CYCLE_DIVIDER did,
// so you shouldn't use it unless you are OK with PWM on your bed.  (see the comment on enabling PIDTEMPBED)
#define MAX_BED_POWER 255 // limits duty cycle to bed; 255=full current

#ifdef PIDTEMPBED
//120v 250W silicone heater into 4mm borosilicate (MendelMax 1.5+)
//from FOPDT model - kp=.39 Tp=405 Tdead=66, Tc set to 79.2, aggressive factor of .15 (vs .1, 1, 10)
    #define  DEFAULT_bedKp 10.00
    #define  DEFAULT_bedKi .023
    #define  DEFAULT_bedKd 305.4

//120v 250W silicone heater into 4mm borosilicate (MendelMax 1.5+)
//from pidautotune
//    #define  DEFAULT_bedKp 97.1
//    #define  DEFAULT_bedKi 1.41
//    #define  DEFAULT_bedKd 1675.16

// FIND YOUR OWN: "M303 E-1 C8 S90" to run autotune on the bed at 90 degreesC for 8 cycles.
#endif // PIDTEMPBED



//this prevents dangerous Extruder moves, i.e. if the temperature is under the limit
//can be software-disabled for whatever purposes by
#define PREVENT_DANGEROUS_EXTRUDE
//if PREVENT_DANGEROUS_EXTRUDE is on, you can still disable (uncomment) very long bits of extrusion separately.
#define PREVENT_LENGTHY_EXTRUDE

#define EXTRUDE_MINTEMP 170
#define EXTRUDE_MAXLENGTH (X_MAX_LENGTH+Y_MAX_LENGTH) //prevent extrusion of very large distances.

/*================== Thermal Runaway Protection ==============================
This is a feature to protect your printer from burn up in flames if it has
a thermistor coming off place (this happened to a friend of mine recently and
motivated me writing this feature).

The issue: If a thermistor come off, it will read a lower temperature than actual.
The system will turn the heater on forever, burning up the filament and anything
else around.

After the temperature reaches the target for the first time, this feature will 
start measuring for how long the current temperature stays below the target 
minus _HYSTERESIS (set_temperature - THERMAL_RUNAWAY_PROTECTION_HYSTERESIS).

If it stays longer than _PERIOD, it means the thermistor temperature
cannot catch up with the target, so something *may be* wrong. Then, to be on the
safe side, the system will he halt.

Bear in mind the count down will just start AFTER the first time the 
thermistor temperature is over the target, so you will have no problem if
your extruder heater takes 2 minutes to hit the target on heating.

*/
// If you want to enable this feature for all your extruder heaters,
// uncomment the 2 defines below:

// Parameters for all extruder heaters
//#define THERMAL_RUNAWAY_PROTECTION_PERIOD 40 //in seconds
//#define THERMAL_RUNAWAY_PROTECTION_HYSTERESIS 4 // in degree Celsius

// If you want to enable this feature for your bed heater,
// uncomment the 2 defines below:

// Parameters for the bed heater
//#define THERMAL_RUNAWAY_PROTECTION_BED_PERIOD 20 //in seconds
//#define THERMAL_RUNAWAY_PROTECTION_BED_HYSTERESIS 2 // in degree Celsius
//===========================================================================


//===========================================================================
//=============================Mechanical Settings===========================
//===========================================================================

// Uncomment the following line to enable CoreXY kinematics
// #define COREXY

// coarse Endstop Settings
#define ENDSTOPPULLUPS // Comment this out (using // at the start of the line) to disable the endstop pullup resistors

#ifndef ENDSTOPPULLUPS
  // fine endstop settings: Individual pullups. will be ignored if ENDSTOPPULLUPS is defined
  // #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_XMAX
  // #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_YMAX
  // #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMAX
  // #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_XMIN
  // #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_YMIN
  // #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMIN
#endif

#ifdef ENDSTOPPULLUPS
  #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_XMAX
  #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_YMAX
  #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMAX
  #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_XMIN
  #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_YMIN
  #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMIN
#endif

// The pullups are needed if you directly connect a mechanical endswitch between the signal and ground pins.
const bool X_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = true; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
const bool Y_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = true; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
const bool Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = true; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
const bool X_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = true; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
const bool Y_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = true; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
const bool Z_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = true; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
//#define DISABLE_MAX_ENDSTOPS
//#define DISABLE_MIN_ENDSTOPS

// Disable max endstops for compatibility with endstop checking routine
#if defined(COREXY) && !defined(DISABLE_MAX_ENDSTOPS)
  #define DISABLE_MAX_ENDSTOPS
#endif

// For Inverting Stepper Enable Pins (Active Low) use 0, Non Inverting (Active High) use 1
#define X_ENABLE_ON 0
#define Y_ENABLE_ON 0
#define Z_ENABLE_ON 0
#define E_ENABLE_ON 0 // For all extruders

// Disables axis when it's not being used.
#define DISABLE_X false
#define DISABLE_Y false
#define DISABLE_Z false
#define DISABLE_E false // For all extruders
#define DISABLE_INACTIVE_EXTRUDER true //disable only inactive extruders and keep active extruder enabled

#define INVERT_X_DIR false    // for Mendel set to false, for Orca set to true
#define INVERT_Y_DIR true    // for Mendel set to true, for Orca set to false
#define INVERT_Z_DIR true     // for Mendel set to false, for Orca set to true
#define INVERT_E0_DIR true   // for direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to false
#define INVERT_E1_DIR false    // for direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to false
#define INVERT_E2_DIR false   // for direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to false

// ENDSTOP SETTINGS:
// Sets direction of endstops when homing; 1=MAX, -1=MIN
#define X_HOME_DIR -1
#define Y_HOME_DIR -1
#define Z_HOME_DIR -1

#define min_software_endstops false // If true, axis won't move to coordinates less than HOME_POS.
#define max_software_endstops true  // If true, axis won't move to coordinates greater than the defined lengths below.

// Travel limits after homing
#define X_MAX_POS 200
#define X_MIN_POS 0
#define Y_MAX_POS 200
#define Y_MIN_POS 0
#define Z_MAX_POS 180
#define Z_MIN_POS 0

#define X_MAX_LENGTH (X_MAX_POS - X_MIN_POS)
#define Y_MAX_LENGTH (Y_MAX_POS - Y_MIN_POS)
#define Z_MAX_LENGTH (Z_MAX_POS - Z_MIN_POS)
//============================= Bed Auto Leveling ===========================

//#define ENABLE_AUTO_BED_LEVELING // Delete the comment to enable (remove // at the start of the line)
#define Z_PROBE_REPEATABILITY_TEST  // If not commented out, Z-Probe Repeatability test will be included if Auto Bed Leveling is Enabled.

#ifdef ENABLE_AUTO_BED_LEVELING

// There are 2 different ways to pick the X and Y locations to probe:

//  - "grid" mode
//    Probe every point in a rectangular grid
//    You must specify the rectangle, and the density of sample points
//    This mode is preferred because there are more measurements.
//    It used to be called ACCURATE_BED_LEVELING but "grid" is more descriptive

//  - "3-point" mode
//    Probe 3 arbitrary points on the bed (that aren't colinear)
//    You must specify the X & Y coordinates of all 3 points

  #define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_GRID
  // with AUTO_BED_LEVELING_GRID, the bed is sampled in a
  // AUTO_BED_LEVELING_GRID_POINTSxAUTO_BED_LEVELING_GRID_POINTS grid
  // and least squares solution is calculated
  // Note: this feature occupies 10'206 byte
  #ifdef AUTO_BED_LEVELING_GRID

    // set the rectangle in which to probe
    #define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 15
    #define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 170
    #define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION 180
    #define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 20

     // set the number of grid points per dimension
     // I wouldn't see a reason to go above 3 (=9 probing points on the bed)
    #define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_GRID_POINTS 2


  #else  // not AUTO_BED_LEVELING_GRID
    // with no grid, just probe 3 arbitrary points.  A simple cross-product
    // is used to esimate the plane of the print bed

      #define ABL_PROBE_PT_1_X 15
      #define ABL_PROBE_PT_1_Y 180
      #define ABL_PROBE_PT_2_X 15
      #define ABL_PROBE_PT_2_Y 20
      #define ABL_PROBE_PT_3_X 170
      #define ABL_PROBE_PT_3_Y 20

  #endif // AUTO_BED_LEVELING_GRID


  // these are the offsets to the probe relative to the extruder tip (Hotend - Probe)
  #define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -25
  #define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -29
  #define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -12.35

  #define Z_RAISE_BEFORE_HOMING 4       // (in mm) Raise Z before homing (G28) for Probe Clearance.
                                        // Be sure you have this distance over your Z_MAX_POS in case

  #define XY_TRAVEL_SPEED 8000         // X and Y axis travel speed between probes, in mm/min

  #define Z_RAISE_BEFORE_PROBING 15    //How much the extruder will be raised before traveling to the first probing point.
  #define Z_RAISE_BETWEEN_PROBINGS 5  //How much the extruder will be raised when traveling from between next probing points

  //#define Z_PROBE_SLED // turn on if you have a z-probe mounted on a sled like those designed by Charles Bell
  //#define SLED_DOCKING_OFFSET 5 // the extra distance the X axis must travel to pickup the sled. 0 should be fine but you can push it further if you'd like.

  //If defined, the Probe servo will be turned on only during movement and then turned off to avoid jerk
  //The value is the delay to turn the servo off after powered on - depends on the servo speed; 300ms is good value, but you can try lower it.
  // You MUST HAVE the SERVO_ENDSTOPS defined to use here a value higher than zero otherwise your code will not compile.

//  #define PROBE_SERVO_DEACTIVATION_DELAY 300


//If you have enabled the Bed Auto Leveling and are using the same Z Probe for Z Homing,
//it is highly recommended you let this Z_SAFE_HOMING enabled!!!

  #define Z_SAFE_HOMING   // This feature is meant to avoid Z homing with probe outside the bed area.
                          // When defined, it will:
                          // - Allow Z homing only after X and Y homing AND stepper drivers still enabled
                          // - If stepper drivers timeout, it will need X and Y homing again before Z homing
                          // - Position the probe in a defined XY point before Z Homing when homing all axis (G28)
                          // - Block Z homing only when the probe is outside bed area.

  #ifdef Z_SAFE_HOMING

    #define Z_SAFE_HOMING_X_POINT (X_MAX_LENGTH/2)    // X point for Z homing when homing all axis (G28)
    #define Z_SAFE_HOMING_Y_POINT (Y_MAX_LENGTH/2)    // Y point for Z homing when homing all axis (G28)

  #endif

#endif // ENABLE_AUTO_BED_LEVELING


// The position of the homing switches
//#define MANUAL_HOME_POSITIONS  // If defined, MANUAL_*_HOME_POS below will be used
//#define BED_CENTER_AT_0_0  // If defined, the center of the bed is at (X=0, Y=0)

//Manual homing switch locations:
// For deltabots this means top and center of the Cartesian print volume.
#define MANUAL_X_HOME_POS 0
#define MANUAL_Y_HOME_POS 0
#define MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS 0
//#define MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS 402 // For delta: Distance between nozzle and print surface after homing.

//// MOVEMENT SETTINGS
#define NUM_AXIS 4 // The axis order in all axis related arrays is X, Y, Z, E
#define HOMING_FEEDRATE {50*60, 50*60, 4*60, 0}  // set the homing speeds (mm/min)

// default settings

#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT   {79.7,80.3,4030,100}  // 4030,100 (was 4990,90, which extruded 18.5mm for request of 20mm)
#define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE          {120, 120, 2, 22}    // (mm/sec)
#define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION      {3000,3000,10,3000}    // Changed Z from 100 to 10 X, Y, Z, E maximum start speed for accelerated moves. E default values are good for Skeinforge 40+, for older versions raise them a lot.

#define DEFAULT_ACCELERATION          1000    // X, Y, Z and E max acceleration in mm/s^2 for printing moves
#define DEFAULT_RETRACT_ACCELERATION  1000   // X, Y, Z and E max acceleration in mm/s^2 for retracts

// Offset of the extruders (uncomment if using more than one and relying on firmware to position when changing).
// The offset has to be X=0, Y=0 for the extruder 0 hotend (default extruder).
// For the other hotends it is their distance from the extruder 0 hotend.
// #define EXTRUDER_OFFSET_X {0.0, 20.00} // (in mm) for each extruder, offset of the hotend on the X axis
// #define EXTRUDER_OFFSET_Y {0.0, 5.00}  // (in mm) for each extruder, offset of the hotend on the Y axis

// The speed change that does not require acceleration (i.e. the software might assume it can be done instantaneously)
#define DEFAULT_XYJERK                20.0    // (mm/sec)
#define DEFAULT_ZJERK                 0.4     // (mm/sec)
#define DEFAULT_EJERK                 5.0    // (mm/sec)

//===========================================================================
//=============================Additional Features===========================
//===========================================================================

// Custom M code points
#define CUSTOM_M_CODES
#ifdef CUSTOM_M_CODES
  #define CUSTOM_M_CODE_SET_Z_PROBE_OFFSET 851
  #define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_RANGE_MIN -15
  #define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_RANGE_MAX -5
#endif


// EEPROM
// The microcontroller can store settings in the EEPROM, e.g. max velocity...
// M500 - stores parameters in EEPROM
// M501 - reads parameters from EEPROM (if you need reset them after you changed them temporarily).
// M502 - reverts to the default "factory settings".  You still need to store them in EEPROM afterwards if you want to.
//define this to enable EEPROM support
// jjb
#define EEPROM_SETTINGS
//to disable EEPROM Serial responses and decrease program space by ~1700 byte: comment this out:
// please keep turned on if you can.
#define EEPROM_CHITCHAT

// Preheat Constants
#define PLA_PREHEAT_HOTEND_TEMP 180
#define PLA_PREHEAT_HPB_TEMP 70
#define PLA_PREHEAT_FAN_SPEED 255   // Insert Value between 0 and 255

#define ABS_PREHEAT_HOTEND_TEMP 240
#define ABS_PREHEAT_HPB_TEMP 100
#define ABS_PREHEAT_FAN_SPEED 255   // Insert Value between 0 and 255

//LCD and SD support
#define ULTRA_LCD  //general LCD support, also 16x2
//#define DOGLCD  // Support for SPI LCD 128x64 (Controller ST7565R graphic Display Family)
#define SDSUPPORT // Enable SD Card Support in Hardware Console
//#define SDSLOW // Use slower SD transfer mode (not normally needed - uncomment if you're getting volume init error)
//#define SD_CHECK_AND_RETRY // Use CRC checks and retries on the SD communication
//#define ENCODER_PULSES_PER_STEP 1 // Increase if you have a high resolution encoder
//#define ENCODER_STEPS_PER_MENU_ITEM 5 // Set according to ENCODER_PULSES_PER_STEP or your liking
//#define ULTIMAKERCONTROLLER //as available from the Ultimaker online store.
//#define ULTIPANEL  //the UltiPanel as on Thingiverse
//#define LCD_FEEDBACK_FREQUENCY_HZ 1000	// this is the tone frequency the buzzer plays when on UI feedback. ie Screen Click
//#define LCD_FEEDBACK_FREQUENCY_DURATION_MS 100 // the duration the buzzer plays the UI feedback sound. ie Screen Click

// The MaKr3d Makr-Panel with graphic controller and SD support
// [reprap.org]
//#define MAKRPANEL

// The RepRapDiscount Smart Controller (white PC
// [reprap.org]
#define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_SMART_CONTROLLER

// The GADGETS3D G3D LCD/SD Controller (blue PC
// [reprap.org]
//#define G3D_PANEL

// The RepRapDiscount FULL GRAPHIC Smart Controller (quadratic white PC
// [reprap.org]
//
// ==> REMEMBER TO INSTALL U8glib to your ARDUINO library folder: [code.google.com]
//#define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLER

// The RepRapWorld REPRAPWORLD_KEYPAD v1.1
// [reprapworld.com]
//#define REPRAPWORLD_KEYPAD
//#define REPRAPWORLD_KEYPAD_MOVE_STEP 10.0 // how much should be moved when a key is pressed, eg 10.0 means 10mm per click

// The Elefu RA Board Control Panel
// [www.elefu.com]
// REMEMBER TO INSTALL LiquidCrystal_I2C.h in your ARUDINO library folder: [github.com]
//#define RA_CONTROL_PANEL

//automatic expansion
#if defined (MAKRPANEL)
 #define DOGLCD
 #define SDSUPPORT
 #define ULTIPANEL
 #define NEWPANEL
 #define DEFAULT_LCD_CONTRAST 17
#endif

#if defined (REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLER)
 #define DOGLCD
 #define U8GLIB_ST7920
 #define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_SMART_CONTROLLER
#endif

#if defined(ULTIMAKERCONTROLLER) || defined(REPRAP_DISCOUNT_SMART_CONTROLLER) || defined(G3D_PANEL)
 #define ULTIPANEL
 #define NEWPANEL
#endif

#if defined(REPRAPWORLD_KEYPAD)
  #define NEWPANEL
  #define ULTIPANEL
#endif
#if defined(RA_CONTROL_PANEL)
 #define ULTIPANEL
 #define NEWPANEL
 #define LCD_I2C_TYPE_PCA8574
 #define LCD_I2C_ADDRESS 0x27   // I2C Address of the port expander
#endif

//I2C PANELS

//#define LCD_I2C_SAINSMART_YWROBOT
#ifdef LCD_I2C_SAINSMART_YWROBOT
  // This uses the LiquidCrystal_I2C library ( [bitbucket.org] )
  // Make sure it is placed in the Arduino libraries directory.
  #define LCD_I2C_TYPE_PCF8575
  #define LCD_I2C_ADDRESS 0x27   // I2C Address of the port expander
  #define NEWPANEL
  #define ULTIPANEL
#endif

// PANELOLU2 LCD with status LEDs, separate encoder and click inputs
//#define LCD_I2C_PANELOLU2
#ifdef LCD_I2C_PANELOLU2
  // This uses the LiquidTWI2 library v1.2.3 or later ( [github.com] )
  // Make sure the LiquidTWI2 directory is placed in the Arduino or Sketchbook libraries subdirectory.
  // (v1.2.3 no longer requires you to define PANELOLU in the LiquidTWI2.h library header file)
  // Note: The PANELOLU2 encoder click input can either be directly connected to a pin
  //       (if BTN_ENC defined to != -1) or read through I2C (when BTN_ENC == -1).
  #define LCD_I2C_TYPE_MCP23017
  #define LCD_I2C_ADDRESS 0x20 // I2C Address of the port expander
  #define LCD_USE_I2C_BUZZER //comment out to disable buzzer on LCD
  #define NEWPANEL
  #define ULTIPANEL

  #ifndef ENCODER_PULSES_PER_STEP
	#define ENCODER_PULSES_PER_STEP 4
  #endif

  #ifndef ENCODER_STEPS_PER_MENU_ITEM
	#define ENCODER_STEPS_PER_MENU_ITEM 1
  #endif


  #ifdef LCD_USE_I2C_BUZZER
	#define LCD_FEEDBACK_FREQUENCY_HZ 1000
	#define LCD_FEEDBACK_FREQUENCY_DURATION_MS 100
  #endif

#endif

// Panucatt VIKI LCD with status LEDs, integrated click & L/R/U/P buttons, separate encoder inputs
//#define LCD_I2C_VIKI
#ifdef LCD_I2C_VIKI
  // This uses the LiquidTWI2 library v1.2.3 or later ( [github.com] )
  // Make sure the LiquidTWI2 directory is placed in the Arduino or Sketchbook libraries subdirectory.
  // Note: The pause/stop/resume LCD button pin should be connected to the Arduino
  //       BTN_ENC pin (or set BTN_ENC to -1 if not used)
  #define LCD_I2C_TYPE_MCP23017
  #define LCD_I2C_ADDRESS 0x20 // I2C Address of the port expander
  #define LCD_USE_I2C_BUZZER //comment out to disable buzzer on LCD (requires LiquidTWI2 v1.2.3 or later)
  #define NEWPANEL
  #define ULTIPANEL
#endif

// Shift register panels
// ---------------------
// 2 wire Non-latching LCD SR from:
// [bitbucket.org]
//#define SR_LCD
#ifdef SR_LCD
   #define SR_LCD_2W_NL    // Non latching 2 wire shift register
   //#define NEWPANEL
#endif


#ifdef ULTIPANEL
  #define NEWPANEL  //enable this if you have a click-encoder panel
  #define SDSUPPORT
  #define ULTRA_LCD
  #ifdef DOGLCD // Change number of lines to match the DOG graphic display
    #define LCD_WIDTH 20
    #define LCD_HEIGHT 5
  #else
    #define LCD_WIDTH 20
    #define LCD_HEIGHT 4
  #endif
#else //no panel but just LCD
  #ifdef ULTRA_LCD
  #ifdef DOGLCD // Change number of lines to match the 128x64 graphics display
    #define LCD_WIDTH 20
    #define LCD_HEIGHT 5
  #else
    #define LCD_WIDTH 20
    #define LCD_HEIGHT 4
  #endif
  #endif
#endif

// default LCD contrast for dogm-like LCD displays
#ifdef DOGLCD
# ifndef DEFAULT_LCD_CONTRAST
#  define DEFAULT_LCD_CONTRAST 32
# endif
#endif

// Increase the FAN pwm frequency. Removes the PWM noise but increases heating in the FET/Arduino
//#define FAST_PWM_FAN

// Temperature status LEDs that display the hotend and bet temperature.
// If all hotends and bed temperature and temperature setpoint are < 54C then the BLUE led is on.
// Otherwise the RED led is on. There is 1C hysteresis.
//#define TEMP_STAT_LEDS

// Use software PWM to drive the fan, as for the heaters. This uses a very low frequency
// which is not ass annoying as with the hardware PWM. On the other hand, if this frequency
// is too low, you should also increment SOFT_PWM_SCALE.
//#define FAN_SOFT_PWM

// Incrementing this by 1 will double the software PWM frequency,
// affecting heaters, and the fan if FAN_SOFT_PWM is enabled.
// However, control resolution will be halved for each increment;
// at zero value, there are 128 effective control positions.
#define SOFT_PWM_SCALE 0

// M240  Triggers a camera by emulating a Canon RC-1 Remote
// Data from: [www.doc-diy.net]
// #define PHOTOGRAPH_PIN     23

// SF send wrong arc g-codes when using Arc Point as fillet procedure
//#define SF_ARC_FIX

// Support for the BariCUDA Paste Extruder.
//#define BARICUDA

//define BlinkM/CyzRgb Support
//#define BLINKM

/*********************************************************************\
* R/C SERVO support
* Sponsored by TrinityLabs, Reworked by codexmas
**********************************************************************/

// Number of servos
//
// If you select a configuration below, this will receive a default value and does not need to be set manually
// set it manually if you have more servos than extruders and wish to manually control some
// leaving it undefined or defining as 0 will disable the servo subsystem
// If unsure, leave commented / disabled
//
//#define NUM_SERVOS 3 // Servo index starts with 0 for M280 command

// Servo Endstops
//
// This allows for servo actuated endstops, primary usage is for the Z Axis to eliminate calibration or bed height changes.
// Use M206 command to correct for switch height offset to actual nozzle height. Store that setting with M500.
//
//#define SERVO_ENDSTOPS {-1, -1, 0} // Servo index for X, Y, Z. Disable with -1
//#define SERVO_ENDSTOP_ANGLES {0,0, 0,0, 70,0} // X,Y,Z Axis Extend and Retract angles

/**********************************************************************\
 * Support for a filament diameter sensor
 * Also allows adjustment of diameter at print time (vs  at slicing)
 * Single extruder only at this point (extruder 0)
 * 
 * Motherboards
 * 34 - RAMPS1.4 - uses Analog input 5 on the AUX2 connector 
 * 81 - Printrboard - Uses Analog input 2 on the Aux 2 connector
 * 301 - Rambo  - uses Analog input 3
 * Note may require analog pins to be defined for different motherboards
 **********************************************************************/
#define FILAMENT_SENSOR
#define FILAMENT_SENSOR_EXTRUDER_NUM	0  //The number of the extruder that has the filament sensor (0,1,2)
#define MEASUREMENT_DELAY_CM			14  //measurement delay in cm.  This is the distance from filament sensor to middle of barrel

#define DEFAULT_NOMINAL_FILAMENT_DIA  3.0  //Enter the diameter (in mm) of the filament generally used (3.0 mm or 1.75 mm) - this is then used in the slicer software.  Used for sensor reading validation
#define MEASURED_UPPER_LIMIT          3.30  //upper limit factor used for sensor reading validation in mm
#define MEASURED_LOWER_LIMIT          1.90  //lower limit factor for sensor reading validation in mm
#define MAX_MEASUREMENT_DELAY			20  //delay buffer size in bytes (1 byte = 1cm)- limits maximum measurement delay allowable (must be larger than MEASUREMENT_DELAY_CM  and lower number saves RAM)

//defines used in the code
#define DEFAULT_MEASURED_FILAMENT_DIA  DEFAULT_NOMINAL_FILAMENT_DIA  //set measured to nominal initially 







#include "Configuration_adv.h"
#include "thermistortables.h"

#endif //__CONFIGURATION_H

Granted it was a month ago but the only thing I remember doing to get mine working was to uncomment the line below and add the U8glib library. I had forgotten about the extra library until I saw it in the marlin code you posted.

//#define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLER


Now if we are talking about getting the printer itself working then yes I had to modify alot more lines. I didn't dig into the config file you posted so maybe it's obvious there but what screen are you using? Maybe because mine was the gui one there was less to change??

Quote
jjbunn

Quote
Wpflum
...

Do you have an LCD on the printer? I was having problems with Cura so it was real nice to be able to jog the extruder around manually and be able to test extruding and bed heat without a PC involved.

Would you share your changes to configuration.h that you made to support the LCD? I have the 4 line display on mine, but it only works when USB is powered on the Arduino. When the USB is detached, the LCD display turns off, and a green LED on the RAMPS flickers. I think this is a power supply issue, but I don't have any other problems than this.

Thanks!

I found the post I was thinking about reguarding the usb only problem.

[forums.reprap.org]

It looks like either a diode problem or a board problem, at least according to that post.

Quote
Wpflum

Quote
jjbunn

Quote
Wpflum
...

Do you have an LCD on the printer? I was having problems with Cura so it was real nice to be able to jog the extruder around manually and be able to test extruding and bed heat without a PC involved.

Would you share your changes to configuration.h that you made to support the LCD? I have the 4 line display on mine, but it only works when USB is powered on the Arduino. When the USB is detached, the LCD display turns off, and a green LED on the RAMPS flickers. I think this is a power supply issue, but I don't have any other problems than this.

Thanks!

I found the post I was thinking about reguarding the usb only problem.

[forums.reprap.org]

It looks like either a diode problem or a board problem, at least according to that post.

Many thanks - that's useful ... the symptoms are the same on mine. However, I have two RAMPS boards, both with D1 present, and the problem manifests on both. I'll have to dig around a bit more. First thing I'm going to check when I get home is whether with the USB disconnected I have 5 Volts on the LCD.

Has anyone tried adding an auto bed leveler to this printer? I picked up an activator from ebay for a buck or so and it finally showed up Monday, all I need is a microswitch and some printed parts to hold the bunch together. So as soon as I can get my X axis issue fixed, I'm thinking by Thanksgiving (notice I didn't include the year), I'd like to try and impliment the probe but in the mean time I figured I see if anyone else here has tried it.

Here are some pictures of my latest failure. You can see how the X axis skipped and then started printing in mid air.

Also if you look at the upper right corner of pic3 you can see where the end stop must have gotten hooked by the rats nest of filament and either when the extruder got to the other end of the board or when I pulled it loose it bent the stop arm 90 degrees. I didn't see it initially and when I tried to push it back into place it broke off. Now I'm waiting for a couple of micro switches and some end stop spares to show up so I can try printing again.

Oh well that's life.......it kicks you in the nads, laughs while you writhe on the ground and all the time make jokes about your mother.....

Some days I really wish I drank

WPFLUM,

Let me know when you get the auto-level setup. I just got the J-Head, so once I get a few things printed I will be working on the servo arm. Something tells me I will have more issues than what I can imagine right now. But once its setup it should help eliminate the adjustment fine tuning.

Quote
jjbunn

Quote
Wpflum

Quote
jjbunn

Quote
Wpflum
...

Do you have an LCD on the printer? I was having problems with Cura so it was real nice to be able to jog the extruder around manually and be able to test extruding and bed heat without a PC involved.

Would you share your changes to configuration.h that you made to support the LCD? I have the 4 line display on mine, but it only works when USB is powered on the Arduino. When the USB is detached, the LCD display turns off, and a green LED on the RAMPS flickers. I think this is a power supply issue, but I don't have any other problems than this.

Thanks!

I found the post I was thinking about reguarding the usb only problem.

[forums.reprap.org]

It looks like either a diode problem or a board problem, at least according to that post.

Many thanks - that's useful ... the symptoms are the same on mine. However, I have two RAMPS boards, both with D1 present, and the problem manifests on both. I'll have to dig around a bit more. First thing I'm going to check when I get home is whether with the USB disconnected I have 5 Volts on the LCD.

OK, this is indeed a 5V power supply issue. When the USB is plugged in, it supplies 5V to the LCD. When it is unplugged, the Arduino's regulator is supposed to supply 5V from the 12V main supply. But on my board it doesn't. This may be because the Arduino's regulator is kaput.

So, I will use a 7805 to provide a separate 5V from the 12V in ... this is simple enough to do.

A 7805 is not very efficient and will generate a lot of heat, there may be better options that wont generate as much heat,
or that may be more efficient... it's a good stop gap measure, but as a permanent install you may wish to get something more efficient,
and cooler running

See National LM2575 datasheet for details AND Calculations

Quote
Waltermixx
A 7805 is not very efficient and will generate a lot of heat, there may be better options that wont generate as much heat,
or that may be more efficient... it's a good stop gap measure, but as a permanent install you may wish to get something more efficient,
and cooler running

See National LM2575 datasheet for details AND Calculations

Thanks - I'll check out the LM2575. I have lots of 7805s handy, so will go with one of those for the time being.

I remembered reading somewhere that putting the endstop headers on backwards could blow the regulator I'm not sure is relevant anymore as the post was from last year. Could that have happened to your board?

Quote
Wpflum
I remembered reading somewhere that putting the endstop headers on backwards could blow the regulator I'm not sure is relevant anymore as the post was from last year. Could that have happened to your board?

It's possible, although I was quite careful about polarity when wiring up. I have another Arduino Mega that I can swap in, to confirm that it is indeed the Mega's regulator that is the problem.

I'd just wire up the power to it and see if it's power up the LCD so that nothing else gets in the way since all you need to do is see if it works on the power supply.

Ok, so my printer is shipping today or tomorrow (I have a UPS tracking number but it doesn't seem to be picked up yet) and it's expected to be here Monday. I can't wait to get it and do an unboxing video and get ready to build it. Looks like I won't be sleeping at all next week. I'll keep you all posted.

Ok, so I had some time over a few days to get the extruder apart. Interesting to watch it fail in action...

Video to my patience test

So when I noticed it seemed to catch on the set screw, I set out to turn it around, and for the second time, had to go shopping for a hex driver (1/16) that wasn't in my collection (the last time it was 1.5 mm). Don't get me wrong, I like tools, but sheesh (this time I got a monster set, regular $28, on for $13 at Canadian Tire). Unfortunately it didn't seem to be enough. As soon as I introduce the filament, it still does a jig back and forth.

With it open to reduce any added friction, I played with the v-ref a little, ranging from 0.35v all the way up to 0.5v. With no change (so I went back to 0.35v as it seemed to be the most valid based on other people's posts). I will try again when I've chilled a bit (I might just be bleary eyed). Is this a fair assessment for my v-ref?

Could it be something in my code?

Also, I'm wondering if I might have to drill out the channel a little as it seems a bit tight. I know some people have had to make some alterations to different parts of their kits. Has anyone had to go this far yet?

Thanks again for the input.

Wpflum. Are you printing from SD or USB when your failures occur?

I typically print from SD but I do recall seeing a similar jump back when I was using repetier host over USB if the PC got bogged down. Almost like it skipped a few lines of gcode. That only happened a few times though. Was not curious enough to try to track down the issue with a sniffer or anything at the time.

Have you used any lubricant on you X axis? Having played Trombone for several years I happened to have some slide oil that worked well on my setup.

Another thing to consider is your wires or even the belt tensioner getting caught somewhere. Any zip ties On wires potentially rubbing edges somewhere even if only sometimes?

You might try forcing some rapid movements while not running a print in order to try to find what brings the problem out. If you can make it repeatable in front of you it should help find the problem.
Try jogging back and forth 100mm at various speeds to see if any of them cause a problem.

I normally print from the SD. I'm trying to remember if one of the previous prints that failed was from the usb, I'm not sure if I had any but the last one was SD based.

I don't have anything on the smooth rod to lubricate, I kinda assumed that since I was using a ball bearinged slide that I didn't need any, would dry graphite work? I have some from a number of years doing pinewood derby.

The wiring doesn't seem to be the issue but I'll double check that again. I'm not using belt tensioners so there is nothing to hit there, I am still partial to something with the idler pulley but it was working smoothly after I did the last adjustment.

Forcing high speed changes isn't a bad idea and I'll try it over the weekend, unfortunately since I broke the end stop and wont see a spare until monday I'm kinda on hold for much testing.

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Wpflum
I normally print from the SD. I'm trying to remember if one of the previous prints that failed was from the usb, I'm not sure if I had any but the last one was SD based.

I don't have anything on the smooth rod to lubricate, I kinda assumed that since I was using a ball bearinged slide that I didn't need any, would dry graphite work? I have some from a number of years doing pinewood derby.

The wiring doesn't seem to be the issue but I'll double check that again. I'm not using belt tensioners so there is nothing to hit there, I am still partial to something with the idler pulley but it was working smoothly after I did the last adjustment.

Forcing high speed changes isn't a bad idea and I'll try it over the weekend, unfortunately since I broke the end stop and wont see a spare until monday I'm kinda on hold for much testing.

I agree the pulley seems like a likely culprit still based on what you have said. If it isn't too tight there may be something going on with the bearing there or the plastic parts that press together. If I remember correctly that is the same parts as for the Y axis. If there isn't anything obvious when you take it apart you might try switching the two of them to see if the problem follows.

As far as lubrication goes. Take a look here

Good luck with your testing.

Not sure if I answered your questions:

Yup it's ABS, and my printer is in a 11' x 14' bedroom and if the printer has been printing for an hour or so, yes the room does smell like burned plastic (ABS smell). It's not terrible, my wife has not compained about it, and thats a pretty good barometer ... I purchased the filament from www.filaments.ca it's good quality stuff... ( I order PLA from there as well for the Makerbot Replicator 2, the PLA is great as well, nice colours and always great prints.. )

at any rate I have attached my slicer bundle setting file and my configuration.h file,
please note, my Y end stop is at the front of my printer, and my x stop is on the right...
that may make a difference...

when I print, my objects face backwards, but as far as I know they are not mirrored...
so my x=0 and y=0 is at the back right corner of my printer

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AKFoddy7
Waltermixx, if you do manage a way to export your settings, I think it would be great to benchmark to fine tune my settings. Your prints seem to be problem free! I notice you are using ABS, where did you order your filament from? Any smell associated with the filament you are using?

And for those of you messing around with the hot end, do not over tighten it....See below for what can happen. (Had a bit too much hear and a little too much force when installing the threaded portion, the heat throat snapped like a piece of spaghetti.

Anyone have any experience with Folger's all metal hot end? Seems really cheap compared to the others? Also looking into the prometheus hot end as it is local and I could get up and running sooner.

s1106.photobucket.com

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AKFoddy7
WPFLUM,

Let me know when you get the auto-level setup. I just got the J-Head, so once I get a few things printed I will be working on the servo arm. Something tells me I will have more issues than what I can imagine right now. But once its setup it should help eliminate the adjustment fine tuning.

where did you get your J-Head from? you mentioned locally? got a link? will it mount to the x-carriage spec'd for this printer? (30mm hole spacing) or will you have to use another x-carriage with it... do post pictures...

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/07/2014 10:36AM by Waltermixx.