Folger Prusa i3 Kit from ebay

On closer examination of that photo (second one), it looks like you could have the same issue with the Y axis stepper driver & heat sink also.

Quote
55rebel
bcollins12,
What I can see right off in the second picture, is that the heat sink is - more than likely - shorting the soldered pins on your X axis stepper driver....would correct pronto. Remove that heat sink and reposition it more centered, being careful not to make contact with any other soldered pins on that little circuit board Hopefully there is no damage done to the driver and/or board.

Wow I didn't even notice that, Nice catch!

Quote
55rebel
bcollins12,
What I can see right off in the second picture, is that the heat sink is - more than likely - shorting the soldered pins on your X axis stepper driver....would correct pronto. Remove that heat sink and reposition it more centered, being careful not to make contact with any other soldered pins on that little circuit board Hopefully there is no damage done to the driver and/or board.

Ok I will definitely correct this, but after much trial & error last night, I discovered that I have a defective thermistor on the extruder. Apparently marlin has a safety feature which prevents any motor movements or bed heating when the extruder thermistor isn't functioning. I disabled the thermistor in the config.h file and then I could move the motors manually in any direction AND heat the bed and move the extruder stepper. So I ordered a 10 pk from amazon last night they said it will be here Tomorrow, and hopefully that will fix it! But the only thing I couldn't figure out was the thermistor always read 0 deg C but when I hit it with a torch it would increase as if it was working,,,,

Quote
thefugitive87

MindRealm created this:
[www.thingiverse.com]
Which helps with filament changes and fixing jams.

Awesome, thanks!

Quote
bcollins12

Quote
55rebel
bcollins12,
What I can see right off in the second picture, is that the heat sink is - more than likely - shorting the soldered pins on your X axis stepper driver....would correct pronto. Remove that heat sink and reposition it more centered, being careful not to make contact with any other soldered pins on that little circuit board Hopefully there is no damage done to the driver and/or board.

Ok I will definitely correct this, but after much trial & error last night, I discovered that I have a defective thermistor on the extruder. Apparently marlin has a safety feature which prevents any motor movements or bed heating when the extruder thermistor isn't functioning. I disabled the thermistor in the config.h file and then I could move the motors manually in any direction AND heat the bed and move the extruder stepper. So I ordered a 10 pk from amazon last night they said it will be here Tomorrow, and hopefully that will fix it! But the only thing I couldn't figure out was the thermistor always read 0 deg C but when I hit it with a torch it would increase as if it was working,,,,

In the marlin firmware you have to make sure the thermistor is set to 1 or else it won't work.

Quote
that1guy
Hey all! So I'm still having waving problems in my prints (see [forums.reprap.org]) and pic:
wavy print pic

I've followed all the advice I've recieved to try and fix this, but nothing has had any affect .

I've tried:

• Replaced acrylic Y axis sled with an alluminium seld
• Cleaned out the hot end
• New hot end
• New fillament
• New stepper motor
• A whole new extruder assembly from Folger (stepper motor, hot-end, fan,etc)

I thought for sure the last one would have fixed the problem but the EXACT same output is happening: waves in the print for both axis (elimates x or y motors as it happens on the Y axis when the X motor isn't running, and vice-versa).

It's gotta be software right? I've calibrated the DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT setting for the extruder (currently 101). I'm printing ABS @ 225 extruder and 95 hotbed. The bed is absolutely perfectly level and am printing 0.2mm height. I have tried an initial height of both .3 and .2mm (no difference). I've even upped my vref thinking it wasn't enough.. no change.

It may be my imagination, but I could swear I hear a high pitched noise that pulses at the same rate the waves occur as it's printed.

The only upside to all of this is that now I have two extruders and, as soon as I get it printing right, I can setup for dual extrusion.

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated!!

look at your jerk settings.. or it could be something loose on one of your axis..it looks more mechanical than software..

Quote
locutus_40

Quote
that1guy
Hey all! So I'm still having waving problems in my prints (see [forums.reprap.org]) and pic:
wavy print pic

I've followed all the advice I've recieved to try and fix this, but nothing has had any affect .

I've tried:

• Replaced acrylic Y axis sled with an alluminium seld
• Cleaned out the hot end
• New hot end
• New fillament
• New stepper motor
• A whole new extruder assembly from Folger (stepper motor, hot-end, fan,etc)

I thought for sure the last one would have fixed the problem but the EXACT same output is happening: waves in the print for both axis (elimates x or y motors as it happens on the Y axis when the X motor isn't running, and vice-versa).

It's gotta be software right? I've calibrated the DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT setting for the extruder (currently 101). I'm printing ABS @ 225 extruder and 95 hotbed. The bed is absolutely perfectly level and am printing 0.2mm height. I have tried an initial height of both .3 and .2mm (no difference). I've even upped my vref thinking it wasn't enough.. no change.

It may be my imagination, but I could swear I hear a high pitched noise that pulses at the same rate the waves occur as it's printed.

The only upside to all of this is that now I have two extruders and, as soon as I get it printing right, I can setup for dual extrusion.

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated!!

look at your jerk settings.. or it could be something loose on one of your axis..it looks more mechanical than software..

Actually it turned out to be, mostly, the stepper driver. I switched it out and the waves went away for both axis. Now the plastic is extruded smoothly. There are still some issues, but it's 99% better now just by replacing the stepstick. I'll check the jerk settings to be safe though, thanks!

Hey everyone. I am new to 3d printing with kits and im having an issue with my folger tech prusa i3.. I posted this up in my own thread but its not getting much attention. I cannot get my extruder to function with the controls in Repetier. Everything else works great though. The extruder gets up to temp, all my end stops work, all the motors work. I tried swapping the extruder motor to the x axis and it responds when I tell X to move. Dry run is off, and the extruder is at 230 degress C when I tried to load the filament. Everything appears to be plugged in correctly. I believe it is an issue with the files I got from Folger Techs Google file. Can anyone help me shed light on this? I am eager to start printing

Quote
quigs
Hey everyone. I am new to 3d printing with kits and im having an issue with my folger tech prusa i3.. I posted this up in my own thread but its not getting much attention. I cannot get my extruder to function with the controls in Repetier. Everything else works great though. The extruder gets up to temp, all my end stops work, all the motors work. I tried swapping the extruder motor to the x axis and it responds when I tell X to move. Dry run is off, and the extruder is at 230 degress C when I tried to load the filament. Everything appears to be plugged in correctly. I believe it is an issue with the files I got from Folger Techs Google file. Can anyone help me shed light on this? I am eager to start printing

mine did the same thing.. press the reset button on the ramps and restart repatier host. see if that helps did for me.. if not reupload the firmware from foldgertech

IMPORTANT NOTE

I wondered why there were a noticeable difference between X and Z dimentions to my prints. Then I found where it comes from, and fixed it.

You definitely want to change the printed pulleys provided by Folger because they are ways too big. Some explanations : The Folger's printed pulleys have a contact diameter of 15.8mm, let's say 16mm. The pitch diameter of a 20 tooth GT2 pulley is (Pitch x Number of teeth) / Pi = (2*20)/Pi = 12,73mm. So they're definitely wrong. BUT, the pulley's pitch diameter differs of an idler pulley contact diameter. Because the tooth lay inside the pulley, and must have enough space on the idler pulley for the same belt pitch diameter. You need to remove the tooth eight plus the PLD of the pitch diameter to get the right diameter. So the GT2 belt's PLD is 0.254mm and the tooth eight is 0.75mm. You need to substact those two times for the diameter, so the formula is Pitch diameter - ((PLD+Tooth height)*2) = 12.73 - ((0.254+0.75)*2) = 10.72mm So you'd rather use the bearing alone, you're more closer ! You need to print a 10.72mm idler pulley if you've got a nozzle thin enough (0.3 or less) and/or buy a 694ZZ bearing mounted with M4 bolt and nut, and accept a 0.27mm error, which is tangently no big deal.

5mm of error on the diameter of the idler pulleys... Just a tiny gap !

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/14/2015 08:33AM by Zavashier.

---

Collective intelligence emerges when a group of people work together effectively. Prusa i3 Folger (A lot of the parts are wrong, boring !)

Quigs,

I'm in a similar boat as you, only my Xaxis doesn't move, and my extruder doesn't seem to feed either. Repetier Host sends g-codes for the Xaxis movements, and the x axis stepper "twitches" a bit once, and is "locked" in position. The X motor will get pretty warm if I don't shut off power to the motors. Z axis and Y are working fine...

machine: Folger prusa i3 just purchased.

I'm learning here as I go.. it turns out 240C is pretty warm....lol...learned that today...

Good times... let me know what you find out...

I have a logic analyzer, and gonna probe those enable,direction, and step pins on the X and Y to see what's different.

I also switched X and Y plugs on the RAMPS to verify the X stepper motor was good.

If it worked right outta the box, I wouldn't be learning anything here...

Also, on the 3 end stops I have, only the z axis LED lights up when actuated...something is goofy about that...

ok, I removed the stepper drivers for X and Y, and probed the enable, direction, and step signals for both RAMPS sockets.

Y socket looked fine , kinda cool actually : [www.dropbox.com]

X socket showed enable going low, direction signal, but sadly, no step signal... [www.dropbox.com]

so, do I have a bad MEGA? dunno...might have to try to write an arduino program to toggle Pin A0 on the Mega to test it...I've never played with Arduino before...

good times...

Hello Everybody! New guy on the block here. I've been lurking for about a month and a half now, and am up and pseudo-running thanks to you guys! I've read every page of this thread probably twice already, and am incredibly thankful to have all of you guys around. I've had my Folger i3 for about a week and a half now, and am incredibly happy with it! I have been able to make some really incredible prints, (pictures this evening of all things) and am now in the upgrade for reliability process. I'm struggling with the auto bed leveling function, and I'm hoping you guys may be able to help me. I've got everything installed finally and working. Printed and attached the servo mount, wired up endstops, and have physically tested this out. The problem arises when I try to upload my probe offsets into my config.h file. It is giving my compiling errors. I have attached both the error report and my config.h file for you to check out. I would be greatly, greatly appreciative if you guys could lend a hand. I've got no experience with Gcode, but am comfortable enough with it to do most of what I've needed so far. I am really looking forward to interacting with you guys more often, continuing to pick everyone's brains, and offering help if/when I can!



Arduino: 1.6.0 (Windows 8), Board: "Arduino Mega or Mega 2560, ATmega2560 (Mega 2560)"

In file included from Marlin.h:30:0,
from Marlin_main.cpp:30:
Configuration.h:430:42: error: floating constant in preprocessor expression
#define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER - 17.90 // Probe on: -left +right
^
C:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\hardware\arduino\avr\cores\arduino/Arduino.h:85:24: note: in definition of macro 'max'
#define max(a,b) ((a)>(b)?(a)b))
^
Marlin_main.cpp:1788:51: note: in expansion of macro 'X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER'
#define MIN_PROBE_X (max(X_MIN_POS, X_MIN_POS + X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER))
^
Marlin_main.cpp:1797:35: note: in expansion of macro 'MIN_PROBE_X'
#if LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION < MIN_PROBE_X
^
Configuration.h:430:42: error: floating constant in preprocessor expression
#define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER - 17.90 // Probe on: -left +right
^
C:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\hardware\arduino\avr\cores\arduino/Arduino.h:85:32: note: in definition of macro 'max'
#define max(a,b) ((a)>(b)?(a)b))
^
Marlin_main.cpp:1788:51: note: in expansion of macro 'X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER'
#define MIN_PROBE_X (max(X_MIN_POS, X_MIN_POS + X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER))
^
Marlin_main.cpp:1797:35: note: in expansion of macro 'MIN_PROBE_X'
#if LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION < MIN_PROBE_X
^
Configuration.h:430:42: error: floating constant in preprocessor expression
#define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER - 17.90 // Probe on: -left +right
^
C:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\hardware\arduino\avr\cores\arduino/Arduino.h:84:24: note: in definition of macro 'min'
#define min(a,b) ((a)<(b)?(a)b))
^
Marlin_main.cpp:1789:51: note: in expansion of macro 'X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER'
#define MAX_PROBE_X (min(X_MAX_POS, X_MAX_POS + X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER))
^
Marlin_main.cpp:1799:38: note: in expansion of macro 'MAX_PROBE_X'
#elif RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION > MAX_PROBE_X
^
Configuration.h:430:42: error: floating constant in preprocessor expression
#define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER - 17.90 // Probe on: -left +right
^
C:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\hardware\arduino\avr\cores\arduino/Arduino.h:84:32: note: in definition of macro 'min'
#define min(a,b) ((a)<(b)?(a)b))
^
Marlin_main.cpp:1789:51: note: in expansion of macro 'X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER'
#define MAX_PROBE_X (min(X_MAX_POS, X_MAX_POS + X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER))
^
Marlin_main.cpp:1799:38: note: in expansion of macro 'MAX_PROBE_X'
#elif RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION > MAX_PROBE_X
^
Configuration.h:431:42: error: floating constant in preprocessor expression
#define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER + 7.4 // Probe on: -front +behind
^
C:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\hardware\arduino\avr\cores\arduino/Arduino.h:85:24: note: in definition of macro 'max'
#define max(a,b) ((a)>(b)?(a)b))
^
Marlin_main.cpp:1790:51: note: in expansion of macro 'Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER'
#define MIN_PROBE_Y (max(Y_MIN_POS, Y_MIN_POS + Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER))
^
Marlin_main.cpp:1801:38: note: in expansion of macro 'MIN_PROBE_Y'
#elif FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION < MIN_PROBE_Y
^
Configuration.h:431:42: error: floating constant in preprocessor expression
#define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER + 7.4 // Probe on: -front +behind
^
C:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\hardware\arduino\avr\cores\arduino/Arduino.h:85:32: note: in definition of macro 'max'
#define max(a,b) ((a)>(b)?(a)b))
^
Marlin_main.cpp:1790:51: note: in expansion of macro 'Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER'
#define MIN_PROBE_Y (max(Y_MIN_POS, Y_MIN_POS + Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER))
^
Marlin_main.cpp:1801:38: note: in expansion of macro 'MIN_PROBE_Y'
#elif FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION < MIN_PROBE_Y
^
Configuration.h:431:42: error: floating constant in preprocessor expression
#define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER + 7.4 // Probe on: -front +behind
^
C:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\hardware\arduino\avr\cores\arduino/Arduino.h:84:24: note: in definition of macro 'min'
#define min(a,b) ((a)<(b)?(a)b))
^
Marlin_main.cpp:1791:51: note: in expansion of macro 'Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER'
#define MAX_PROBE_Y (min(Y_MAX_POS, Y_MAX_POS + Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER))
^
Marlin_main.cpp:1803:37: note: in expansion of macro 'MAX_PROBE_Y'
#elif BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION > MAX_PROBE_Y
^
Configuration.h:431:42: error: floating constant in preprocessor expression
#define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER + 7.4 // Probe on: -front +behind
^
C:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\hardware\arduino\avr\cores\arduino/Arduino.h:84:32: note: in definition of macro 'min'
#define min(a,b) ((a)<(b)?(a)b))
^
Marlin_main.cpp:1791:51: note: in expansion of macro 'Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER'
#define MAX_PROBE_Y (min(Y_MAX_POS, Y_MAX_POS + Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER))
^
Marlin_main.cpp:1803:37: note: in expansion of macro 'MAX_PROBE_Y'
#elif BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION > MAX_PROBE_Y
^
Error compiling.

This report would have more information with
"Show verbose output during compilation"
enabled in File > Preferences.

Hi:

I my name is Eckhard and I am a noob at this 3D printer game. I just wanted to check in and let you know how the build is going.

I noticed that the rods for the were visibly bent. Of the 4 rods I have checked the worst was one of the y axis rods that was +/- 0.25mm(0.010 inches) off. It would have made it impossible to get an even thickness of material deposited. I made a setup with a small arbor press I have and got the error to less than +/- 0.05mm(0.002 inches). I am lucky to have some precision measuring tools around from a previous incarnation but anyone could do something similar with a cheapie caliper and some wood pieces.

Another thing I did was put some 4-40 washers between the split washers and the acrylic frame to avoid making stress risers by having the lock washer gouge the frame plates.

The plastic bits for the pullies are bad and are too loose and aren't even round. I took the file to them got some of the bumps off but didn't do anything about the fit. One of the first things I will print up when I get it going.

Overall I like the Folger kit and think it is a good deal for the price.

I am already planning my second printer and have just received a stainless steel frame to which I will add the bits when I get them printed up. Steel and heat is more compatible than heat and acrylic.

Quote
Zavashier
I wondered why there were a noticeable difference between X and Z dimentions to my prints.

Do you have a number you could put to these noticable differences?

Thanks.

I printed 1.5% larger on the Y axis and 0,5% on the X axis. No matter for small parts, but not on large ones. Also small holes was allways a bit oval. Appreciate my settings allow me to print close to perfection 0.3mm thin walls, so it can't be extruder's calibration. When I changed for proper dimension idler pulleys, the values cames down to a 0.3% on each axis. I guess it's now as precise as it can be.

---

Collective intelligence emerges when a group of people work together effectively. Prusa i3 Folger (A lot of the parts are wrong, boring !)

Quote
Zavashier
I printed 1.5% larger on the Y axis and 0,5% on the X axis. No matter for small parts, but not on large ones. Also small holes was allways a bit oval. Appreciate my settings allow me to print close to perfection 0.3mm thin walls, so it can't be extruder's calibration. When I changed for proper dimension idler pulleys, the values cames down to a 0.3% on each axis. I guess it's now as precise as it can be.

While I see how the change in the pulley size would have affected this, I do believe that the directions I posted many pages back on how to change the number of steps for 1 mm of movement in the configuration.h file would have resolved this. And at the time Zav, your answer was something like "well you shouldn't have to change that". Can I assume that you changed the values for those pulleys in the same place I mentioned back then?

I did not changed anything to the configuration.h. The steps per millimeter are not adjustable values. They are calculated to match the GT2 pulley and the steps per revolution of the motor and driver settings. They're not meant to be adjusted for the idler pulley or to reach an expected part measurement. It's just a formula you want to apply. And if the mecanics are perfect, the results will be perfect too. I found the mecanical problem came from the idler pulleys.

---

Collective intelligence emerges when a group of people work together effectively. Prusa i3 Folger (A lot of the parts are wrong, boring !)

right, so instead of changing the number to fit the parts that you have, you changed the parts to fit the numbers from the formula, which seems harder to me, but whatever.

Well, whith a proper kit, you shouldn't. But as far the parts are wrong, the formula can't be good.

Read this. When you adjust the steps per mn values, you introduce more problematic errors. Why ? Because what you did to adjust your values, ils to print a part, a 20x20mm cube for example, and you adjust your steps per millimeter to get a perfect 20x20mm cube, right ? But if you print a 10x10mm our a 100x100mm cube, it won't be right this time, because your adjustment cannot work for any other measurment. It's mathematical and simple as that.

So adjusting the steps per millimeter values sounds simpler, but it's just wrong.

---

Collective intelligence emerges when a group of people work together effectively. Prusa i3 Folger (A lot of the parts are wrong, boring !)

Quote
Zavashier
Read this. When you adjust the steps per mn values, you introduce more problematic errors. Why ? Because what you did to adjust your values, ils to print a part, a 20x20mm cube for example, and you adjust your steps per millimeter to get a perfect 20x20mm cube, right ? But if you print a 10x10mm our a 100x100mm cube, it won't be right this time, because your adjustment cannot work for any other measurment. It's mathematical and simple as that.

So adjusting the steps per millimeter values sounds simpler, but it's just wrong.

It may have been 20+ years since my college days where I minored in math, but I'm pretty sure that's not how it works. Steps per mm means just that, for each millimeter. If it takes 50 steps to go 1 millimeter, then it takes 500 to go 10 millimeters. That doesn't even take any of my college math to figure out, that was probably covered in middle school or earlier. If you need 80 steps per millimeter when you print a 20 millimeter cube on the x axis, then based on the math you will need 1600 steps to print the x axis of that cube. Based on that same math you will need 800 steps to move 10 millimeters in the x direction and 8000 to move 100 millimeters.

Not only do I know that this is right because the math is right but also because I've gone through several kilo's of filament in the last 4 months with very accurate prints and extremely tight tolerances. I just printed a holder for a 4.3 inch diagonal screen for a raspberry pi project I'm working on and the screen fit perfectly and can be held in with friction because the tolerances of my prints are so tight. And the dimensions of that opening were not 20mmx20mm. The only times I have had trouble with this printer, to be honest, is when I've changed my bed height because I had to replace the y axis carriage holders, which took me some time to dial in the perfect z height again, and when I was printing with the folger tech black ABS that I started with, which seems to just have all sorts of problems. Other than that I've had lots of perfect prints and a few wonky prints, which were mostly due to my own learning curve.

So going back to your original comment, adjusting steps per millimeter values not only is simpler, but it's also not wrong. It's not any more wrong than making new idler pulleys to fit within your expected range of movements.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/17/2015 08:34AM by louspinuso.

Anyone had troubles with getting a replacement part from FolgerTech? One of my endstops doesn't work, and I haven't gotten a reply email in a few weeks... I'm sending another today, just wondering what anyone else's experience with this is.

Quote
widespreaddeadhead
Anyone had troubles with getting a replacement part from FolgerTech? One of my endstops doesn't work, and I haven't gotten a reply email in a few weeks... I'm sending another today, just wondering what anyone else's experience with this is.

Wow, maybe there was an issue with last email, but they responded same day and I have a new one coming! Thanks FolgerTech!

I whaited more than 3 weeks to have an awnser at folger's. The awnser comes within 1 hour when I onened a paypal dispute.

Quote
louspinuso

Quote
Zavashier
Read this. When you adjust the steps per mn values, you introduce more problematic errors. Why ? Because what you did to adjust your values, ils to print a part, a 20x20mm cube for example, and you adjust your steps per millimeter to get a perfect 20x20mm cube, right ? But if you print a 10x10mm our a 100x100mm cube, it won't be right this time, because your adjustment cannot work for any other measurment. It's mathematical and simple as that.

So adjusting the steps per millimeter values sounds simpler, but it's just wrong.

It may have been 20+ years since my college days where I minored in math, but I'm pretty sure that's not how it works. Steps per mm means just that, for each millimeter. If it takes 50 steps to go 1 millimeter, then it takes 500 to go 10 millimeters. That doesn't even take any of my college math to figure out, that was probably covered in middle school or earlier. If you need 80 steps per millimeter when you print a 20 millimeter cube on the x axis, then based on the math you will need 1600 steps to print the x axis of that cube. Based on that same math you will need 800 steps to move 10 millimeters in the x direction and 8000 to move 100 millimeters.

Not only do I know that this is right because the math is right but also because I've gone through several kilo's of filament in the last 4 months with very accurate prints and extremely tight tolerances. I just printed a holder for a 4.3 inch diagonal screen for a raspberry pi project I'm working on and the screen fit perfectly and can be held in with friction because the tolerances of my prints are so tight. And the dimensions of that opening were not 20mmx20mm. The only times I have had trouble with this printer, to be honest, is when I've changed my bed height because I had to replace the y axis carriage holders, which took me some time to dial in the perfect z height again, and when I was printing with the folger tech black ABS that I started with, which seems to just have all sorts of problems. Other than that I've had lots of perfect prints and a few wonky prints, which were mostly due to my own learning curve.

So going back to your original comment, adjusting steps per millimeter values not only is simpler, but it's also not wrong. It's not any more wrong than making new idler pulleys to fit within your expected range of movements.

You don't get it. I will explain it into other words. If your're mathematician and you don't understand that, there's nothing more I can do.

The maths are : steps_per_mm = (motor_steps_per_rev * driver_microstep) / (belt_pitch * pulley_number_of_teeth)

When you want to adjust that result to get a "perfect" 20mm cube, you apply the rule of three. Right ? BUT, you don't know if the difference comes of the pulley not as precise as expected, or from the filament, from some wobble, or anything else than transmission. Most of the time, it comes from melted filament that expenses. Because most of people calibrates their extruder only by measuring the incoming filament, and not the output.

Anyways, you changed your steps per millimeter. Now what happens ? You introduced an error by percentage (rule of three, remember ?). And a percentage, for example 1%, applyed to a 20mm cube is a 0.2mm correction, fine. BUT on a 200mm part it's now a 2mm correction ! Get it ?

If you stayed with the step per millimeter value calculated with the formula instead. Your 20mm printed cube measures 20.2mm, a 200mm part will measure 200.2mm. The printing error remains the same, whatever the size of the part.

That's why you don't want to adjust your steps per millimeter.

I changed the idler pulleys. Because of their wrong dimension, the belt forms a triangle, with the belt attachement at a corner of that triangle. If you want the carriage to move with a constant and precise motion, between the drive pulley and the idler pulley you need a straight line. It's basic geometry. Even if you adjust your steps per millimeter, you'll be wrong somewhere in the path. There's no other way than to have two pulleys of the same pitch diameter, the belt attachment in line with the pulley's pitch. Then the motion is right, and you don't need to adjust anything.

Just before to say I'm wrong, take some time to think about it. I'm graduated in mechanical studies.

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Collective intelligence emerges when a group of people work together effectively. Prusa i3 Folger (A lot of the parts are wrong, boring !)

Hello, I'm new writing here and new with 3D printers. I've been checking this thread of the forum with a lot of info about the Folger's 3D, so THANKs YOU ALL.
I have my printer working for 1 week. It printed decently from the first attempt so I guess I was lucky. It need a lot of improvements but... step by step.
First thing, I used the lastest Marlin from github, but with the configuration.h posted in page11 by jjbunn.
(any other config file with a great setup for our Folgers???)
I want to share with you my experience with Sitall glass, I suppose you have heard about this but nothing was talk here.
I received yesterday and the results are good. (There's info about the settings here)
The thing is that they say that the bed temperature has to be 110C. Don't know yours, but if you not changed the bed or PSU, my Folger's bed gets max 90C. Anyway , with 89C and a very slow first lawer, (12mm/s) the glass is working good, BUT with small pieces. They get heavy-glued to the glass and instantaneously pops off when the bed cools to 70C.
So if you are fed up with tape, kepton or hairspray, it's worth the 39$(with shipping to US from Russia). BUT for long pieces.... this hot bed is not enough and they get curved (don't know if there's another thing that can be doing that).
So after that, a couple of questions:
1. How get a better hotbed performance?
2. How to get Smart FULL controller working? (with the modification of configuration.h I mentioned, it doesn't work...)

Thanks

From what I have read slow hot bed heating is usually improper connections to the heater. One wire should be on pad #1 and the other should bridge pads 2 & 3 . Check the Folger build manual, ver 1.1, Step 35, page 50, for a picture of the wiring.

Controller problem. Check this URL

I just looked up the config.h file on page 11 and it reads:

// ==> REMEMBER TO INSTALL U8glib to your ARDUINO library folder: [code.google.com]
//#define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLER

I hope you removed the // in the line above and put some in front of this line.

#define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_SMART_CONTROLLER

Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 03/17/2015 11:06PM by Ecky.

word of advice .. here is what i learned so far .. aka improvements

about the foldgertech kit

1.use a relay or ssr relay for your heater bed.. why you ask.. well i hooked up a normal automotive relay with a fuse to my ramps with a diode.. and im amazed it heated up in the same time.. but far smoother meaning the numbers didnt jump around up.. it maintained the heated bed within 1 degree where before 2 or 3 degrees.. so use a relay.. make sure to use a min 400 watt psu.. i used a 500 watt which has 22 amps on the 12 volt rail....

2.install z rod bearings from any local hobby store.. on the top where the holes are and use some clear super fast drying gorilla glue just a dab on each side ... so your z rods in those large holes dont slop around

3..if you have a lcd its prone to static electricity i barely touched mine and was zapped...... and it went all nuts.. to solve this press reset on the ramps board.. print a box for it.. or use tape around the lcd panel around the back terminals and front.....

4.add some lcd lights they are 12 volts on a switch in my pics and they run off the power supply that came with it

5. add fans on the y sled motor x and z.. they get hot after 30 minutes.. add this to a power strip so you can turn them on or off.. or even add it to the ramps theres another header i think for them..

6. grab some foam and tape it to the top of the extruder where filament goes in this will eliminate the dust and dirt from getting in your hot end and screwing up a print

7.get a alumin y sled and heat bed.. trust me the plexi one flexes and your hot end has diffrent hights during the day so you have to adjust the bed constatnly ive only done so a hand ful of times.. every other print... with a alum bed make sure to adjust and check when its warm

8.use kapton tape.. along with a glue stick and hair spray.. so far my prints are perfect.. really holds it down when using both

9.on short prints like 2 hours.. hook it up to your pc.. long prints use the sd card.. i find short prints sometimes it hangs up or errors... plus you can see progress better.. long prints or when you want to walk away or sleep sd card works best

10. dont print super large stuff right away.. work your way up.. small things med large.. do small things till you dial it in.. it can take a long time to dial in just right...

more to come when i learn more..
ecky.. slow bed heating is because if you use 12 volts its slow.. 24 volts is far faster..and more expensive for a power supply stick with 12 it will take 15 min maybe less to go from 0-90c dont bother going up to 100c.. some of the beds wont reach it... even with my dedicated power supply mine wont reach it..

if oyu have problems make a enclosure from cardboard.. also you should turn off the fan on the hot end and click automatic in slicer settings.. keep it off say for 5 layers then have it come on automatticaly for the rest.. ive learned that a fan on 100% will cause layer adheason problems i have yet to try the automatic setting i will in 2 days see if it helps..

[www.mediafire.com]
[www.mediafire.com]
[www.mediafire.com]

[www.mediafire.com]
[www.mediafire.com]

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/18/2015 06:15AM by locutus_40.

thanks, the connections are ok. Measured 1.7 Ohms for the bed.
So you're telling me that for getting 110V I'll need to change the power supply?
(have you checked this kind of beds?)
For the lcd, the #define are the way it's supposed, but nothing...

Quote
pabloevaristo
thanks, the connections are ok. Measured 1.7 Ohms for the bed.
So you're telling me that for getting 110V I'll need to change the power supply?
(have you checked this kind of beds?)
For the lcd, the #define are the way it's supposed, but nothing...

did you install u8glib watch toms guide on how to install full graphic smart controller.

Quote
Newtoprinting

Quote
pabloevaristo
thanks, the connections are ok. Measured 1.7 Ohms for the bed.
So you're telling me that for getting 110V I'll need to change the power supply?
(have you checked this kind of beds?)
For the lcd, the #define are the way it's supposed, but nothing...

did you install u8glib watch toms guide on how to install full graphic smart controller.

Yes, I installed the library, and I watched that guide on the very beginning of my pursuit....
Blank screen (well, blue)