Folger Prusa i3 Kit from ebay

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DriftyDave
donkahones: Thanks for the info! Got the whole thing together today! All the motors move correctly, everything heats up and I was able to level the bed for the first, of many, times.

Only issue so far is the extruder just clicks when trying to fed filament... Gonna have to search around on that one. Any advice would be appreciated. ;D

maybe you are running the extruder reverse, that what happened to me the first time, the clicks were because it was retracting filament. Try to reverse the stepper's wire

I'm gonna take the hot end apart tonight. The sound is fairly loud. The filament has what looks like gear marks sunk almost halfway through it when I back it out.

Anybody ever experince the y going only one direction? I plug my y motor in the x and it was working fine. I don't know where to look next?

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choopi

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choopi
Ok, my Folger I3 printer is built. Everything work good, except a few things.... When I test my motors, x,y and z they move only one way, the other way it tell me that I'm at the stop but I'm not.

For example, I move x axix (-x) and it move left and if I move left(+x) it give me code:
''echo:endstops hit: Y:-1.40
echo:endstops hit: X:-1.56
echo:endstops hit: X:-1.55''

but I'm not at the endstop...

It's the same on the Y and Z
Any idea what is wrong?

Ok, now my x and z are working good! Now my new snag! My Y only move one way... If I move y+ it goes towards the front and if I hit the -y it goes towards the front also.

I plug my y motor in the x and it's working both direction. Now it's telling me that there is something wrong on the y that make the motor move in one direction only. My stop switch is working fine it's open in both direction until I pressed it. Any idea of what my issue?

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choopi
Anybody ever experince the y going only one direction? I plug my y motor in the x and it was working fine. I don't know where to look next?

This only happens to me when I fail to home any one of my axes--but not always....strange.

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55rebel

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choopi
Anybody ever experince the y going only one direction? I plug my y motor in the x and it was working fine. I don't know where to look next?

This only happens to me when I fail to home any one of my axes--but not always....strange.

Ok, I just tried that to home all my axis but no... the y move only one way.
I may have to end up and get a new ramp...

I pulled the hot end apart. The gear and the bearing are pretty much touching in there. There is no room for the filament to get through. I'm going to try using the side with no bearing and see what happens. Any advice?

Update: I was able to extrude using the left side hole on the hot end. Yeah! One step closer. I had to change the configuration.h to invert the extruder motor since I was using the other side.

At this point all motors home correctly and the hotend seems to extrude. I got a small pile of hairlike filament as a keepsake. lol.

Next I fired up repetier host and set it up using the Folgers guide. I opened a test cube from the reprap wiki and sliced it. I waited for the hot end and bed to come up to temp and clicked print... The motors homed then the head shot to the left front corner. The Z carriage moved up in little steps as if it were finishing the layers quickly without moving the head at all. It didn't extrude any filament.. It seems odd to me it didn't try to print in the center of the bed as that was what the preview showed.

Any ideas on whats going on? I am mostly using the files from the folger google drive. I did try importing walters slicer config bundle and got the exact same results.

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 04/05/2015 10:53PM by DriftyDave.

I made video that demo my problem, maybe this could help... As mentioned before my y axis move only one direction.
[www.youtube.com]

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 04/05/2015 11:32PM by choopi.

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choopi
I made video that demo my problem, maybe this could help... As mentioned before my y axis move only one direction.
[www.youtube.com]

first turn off the power to your printer then back on

reload the stock firmware that it comes with.. then press the reset button on the ramps board..

then load your program of choice.. see if that fixes it

if not use repatier host.. see if that fixes it..

i personally hate that program you use because it lets you over shoot the 200 mm limits so if you acidentlly press 250 it will slam into things.. repitier host goes based off your slicer settings..

if all that does not work.. swap out the controller on the ramps board... aka the stepper motor driver... use the spare one..

if that does not do it its either your arudino mega or the ramps or the motor...

check your power supply is putting out 12 volts turn the pot on it if its not.. use a dmm meter

check the connections on the motor push on them on the ramps and motor

make sure your rails are lubed with ptfe food safe grease..... sometimes bearings can hang stuff up..

just go one by one and elimimnate what it can be..


oh also check your voltage on your ramps board drivers go with the stock setups 0.350 and 0.550 i belive for the bigger motors.

@donkahones: I'd have to agree the X endstop is terrible. I keep having an issue where the x carriage tries to go beyond the endstop and pops the bolt from the threaded rod out of the X assembly. What a pain that is to fix... It's odd, seems to only happen when I connect the printer to Repeiter and the X endstop is triggered and I hit home. Tries to go past the endstop.


I think I may have at least part of my earlier issue figured out where the print head shot to the left front corner. In my Repeiter printer config bed left & bed front were both set to 200. I think this tells the software that the print area starts at 200,200 on the build platform. I will check tonight to see if that helps my situation any. I think I am going to try the latest marlin using one of the Configuration.h files from this thread. Wish me luck!!

Hey fellas, FYI, there was an error in the Folger directions as they said to set up like this when in actuality bed left and bed front should both be 0.

Ok, I did find my problem! It was the connection between the Ramp and Arduino, one of the pin was bent and not inserted in the arduino, straightened the pin and back in the arduino and now, it's printing!

Just incase one of you guys can help with this problem I'm having, that don't frequent the Reprapers Topic forum list, where a slightly different version of this has been posted (this version posted at the Adruino forum ) .

"u8glib_arduino_v1.17.zip" was add to the Arduino IDE via "Add .ZIP Library..." (also tried manual install by unzipping it to the Arduino IDE Library folder) so I could make use of this Full Graphics Smart Controller.

Anyway...

Upon compile/upload:

Code snippet from Marlin's 3d printer firmware > Configuration.h:

#include "U8glib.h"

#ifndef CONFIGURATION_H
#define CONFIGURATION_H
....
....
....

I get the following error message...

Short version:

Arduino: 1.6.3 (Windows 7), Board: "Arduino Mega or Mega 2560, ATmega2560 (Mega 2560)"

In file included from Marlin.h:22:0,

                from cardreader.cpp:1:

Configuration.h:1:20: fatal error: U8glib.h: No such file or directory

#include "U8glib.h"

                   ^

compilation terminated.

Error compiling.

 This report would have more information with
 "Show verbose output during compilation"
 enabled in File > Preferences.

Long version:

Arduino: 1.6.3 (Windows 7), Board: "Arduino Mega or Mega 2560, ATmega2560 (Mega 2560)"

Build options changed, rebuilding all

Using library LiquidCrystal in folder: C:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\libraries\LiquidCrystal 

Using library SPI in folder: C:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\hardware\arduino\avr\libraries\SPI 



C:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\hardware\tools\avr/bin/avr-g++ -c -g -Os -w -fno-exceptions -ffunction-sections -fdata-sections -fno-threadsafe-statics -MMD -mmcu=atmega2560 -DF_CPU=16000000L -DARDUINO=10603 -DARDUINO_AVR_MEGA2560 -DARDUINO_ARCH_AVR -IC:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\hardware\arduino\avr\cores\arduino -IC:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\hardware\arduino\avr\variants\mega -IC:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\libraries\LiquidCrystal\src -IC:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\hardware\arduino\avr\libraries\SPI C:\Users\Mark\AppData\Local\Temp\build1070758060582676053.tmp\cardreader.cpp -o C:\Users\Mark\AppData\Local\Temp\build1070758060582676053.tmp\cardreader.cpp.o 

In file included from C:\Users\Mark\AppData\Local\Temp\build1070758060582676053.tmp\Marlin.h:22:0,

                from C:\Users\Mark\AppData\Local\Temp\build1070758060582676053.tmp\cardreader.cpp:1:

C:\Users\Mark\AppData\Local\Temp\build1070758060582676053.tmp\Configuration.h:1:20: fatal error: U8glib.h: No such file or directory

#include "U8glib.h"

                   ^

compilation terminated.

Error compiling.

Any Help here would be MUCH appreciated ....Thanks!

P.S. Funny how this sight does not allow use of the "less than" and "greater than" symbols...even within the formatted code blocks!?

Edited 5 time(s). Last edit at 04/06/2015 07:21PM by 55rebel.

Finally got it printing!! Turned out it was the bed left & bed front set too 200 causing that issue.

I printed a test cube but it had issues. Didn't want to stick at all at first so I added masking tape then hair spray and brought the nozzle right down to the bed. Now the print sticks.

My filament stopped extruding at layer 3-4. I had to apply pressure to the filament going into the extruder to get it to work properly. The print finished but I had to hold the filament the whole time. I'm thinking this is due to having to use the side of the hot end without the bearing? My gear and bearing are pretty much touching in there and were not allowing extrusion, so I had to swap sides. Any advice would be appreciated. I certainly don't want to have to sit here holding the filament each print... Thanks for all the help so far!! Almost there!

You need that bearing and to be on the right side at first. Its a real tight fit but it's supposed to be. Set your layer thickness for .35 for the first layer. Get it nice and mashed into the hairspray or whatever you're using. Make sure to measure your filament too as that will make a difference. if it averages 1.75 you can enter 1.73 and that will also help get things stuck together. Afer you get some prints you can start fine tuning. I also can't stress how level you need you're bed to be. It's a super pain in the ass, but once you get it decent you can at least print some things that will allow you to set up auto leveling.

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 04/06/2015 10:41PM by krwynn.

When I use the side with the bearing it just pops loudly and will not extrude. Anything I can do to make that work?

Sounds like it's going backwards. Make sure #define INVERT_Z_DIR true. If it's already true, try false. I had the same issue until I realized it was feeding backwards

I'm pretty positive it was going the correct direction. When I went forward it would pop repeatedly. When I went in reverse the filament backed right out. There were teeth marks deep into the filament. I'm going to play with it on teh bearing side tonight and see what I can do. I been thinking on how I can increase the gap between the gear and bearing by just a hair.

I am using .2mm for each layer.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/07/2015 10:03AM by DriftyDave.

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DriftyDave
I'm pretty positive it was going the correct direction. When I went forward it would pop repeatedly. When I went in reverse the filament backed right out. There were teeth marks deep into the filament. I'm going to play with it on teh bearing side tonight and see what I can do. I been thinking on how I can increase the gap between the gear and bearing by just a hair.

I am using .2mm for each layer.

Sounds like the filament was stuck going into the hotend... maybe it hadn't gone into the hole in the block or made it into the center hole in the tube below.... the deep grooves from being mashed against the feeder pulley is normal.

Thanks for all the help! I have attached a picture of the printer completed and a picture of my test cube.

Tonight I'll pull that hotend apart and go back to using the bearing side and see what I can do.

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DriftyDave
Thanks for all the help! I have attached a picture of the printer completed and a picture of my test cube.

Tonight I'll pull that hotend apart and go back to using the bearing side and see what I can do.

That is some CLEAN wire organization!

Hi there, a couple of things:
1.- The guys from FOlger are sending a new hot bed to me. Maybe is was you get, but I complain about the low temp (max 90C) and the time needed to reach it, (30 minutes)...
2.- I've been printing the calibration nickel you posted from thingiverse, and I've got pretty good results with the measurements. But there's 2 things that are not great and you can see in the image if you zoom in a little:
* The circles are weired, not circular.
* There are some gaps near the rectangular and circles edges not filled.
Any suggestion???
thanks!!!
(my steps per mm in marlin firmware are X=82.36, Y=85)
LINK TO IMAGE

@pabloevaristo

A few things that I would check.

1) make sure your belts are tight and aligned correctly.
2) Make sure nothing is binding when printing. Check your cables to see if maybe they are restricting the movement of the bed plate or X carriage while printing.
3) Listen for missed stepper motor steps (clicks) when printing. If heard then double check your Vrefs on the motor drivers.

Also @55rebel

Did you add the #include "U8glib.h" portion to Marlin's config.h? Because that is not in the original github file. Its also not necessary to add.

When including libraries into arduino sketches the single quotes #include "example.h" tells the compiler to look in the local directory for that file (whatever folder your sketch is stored in). Using incasing carats, #include lessthan example.h greaterthan, instructs the compiler to look in the standard library folder.

If you need a working config.h file I have one here for the latest Marlin version v1.0.2:

Config.h

I've been working on a folger tech specific github branch but haven't done it yet.

Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 04/07/2015 04:45PM by donkahones.

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DriftyDave
When I use the side with the bearing it just pops loudly and will not extrude. Anything I can do to make that work?

What are the chances of getting a good picture?

Hello everyone.

Looks like a really great resource here for Folger owners!

I'm waiting for UPS to drop off my new Folger Tech i3 today and hope to take it to the Vancouver hackspace to start assembling it tonight.

Delivery took far longer than Folger Tech's website said it would (it's been a month since I ordered it) and I've got my fingers crossed there are no serious issues with what they sent me so there are no further delays. I've got an SD card full of gcode rarin' to go!

I've seen some people giving what seems like good advice that the best way to go is to build with the stock parts for initial set up and then to add mods once you have it working. Is that indeed the smart way to go? Seems a shame to build it and set it all up only to take it apart to add modded parts, reassemble it and then set it all up again.

@Vanbot You will end up replacing almost everything on it once you get started I've printed all my upgrades in red pla so I can see whats stock and whats upgraded. Only black parts left are the four black corners and the Y motor mount. Thing is that you need a printer to print the upgrades. It's a learning experience so you wont know what to print until you have an issue you need to solve. If you are assembling the printer tonight then make note of the pic I posted a few posts up that shows how you should secure your belts. (Don't follow what folger tech says to do)

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/07/2015 09:34PM by donkahones.

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krwynn
What are the chances of getting a good picture?

I did snap a couple when I had it apart last night. I'll attach one to this message.

I put the extruder back together the way it came, with the filament going through the bearing side. I was able to extrude on this side once I helped the filament down into the hot end. I am still having the some clicking/popping issues though, and when its popping it does not extrude. Seems the outside layers work pretty well but when it is printing the infill it pops much more and makes a stringy mess since there isn't enough of a layer to stick to.

Any advice? I remember reading some similar problems earlier in this thread. I am going to try and find those posts and see if I can get some ideas. Thanks!

I pulled the hot end apart. Cleaned out all the ABS bits that were in there. Tried swapping the bearing over to the left side and upping the vref to .45v. Still clicking... Everything seems fine until the filament gets into the nozzle. I'm wondering if its clogged up in there. I'm gonna take it apart again and see if I can clean it out.

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DriftyDave
I pulled the hot end apart. Cleaned out all the ABS bits that were in there. Tried swapping the bearing over to the left side and upping the vref to .45v. Still clicking... Everything seems fine until the filament gets into the nozzle. I'm wondering if its clogged up in there. I'm gonna take it apart again and see if I can clean it out.

Yeah I think it may be partically plugged. Maybe the lining inside of it got messed up. Can can you see through the tube?

Whats the best way to clean it out? Of course I don't have a .4mm drill bit. I have it sitting in acetone now in hopes of melting all the ABS out...