Folger Prusa i3 Kit from ebay

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bmfcamaro
Hello,

I just got my kit and have it mostly built. My only hang up now is the power cable for the power supply. After cutting the end off I was left with two brown wires and a black which I think is weird. How do I determine which wire goes where?

PS By the way for anyone who has recently purchased a kit or thinking about it, mine was complete and no broken parts and shipped earlier than the 10 days they say it takes.

Just look at the attached picture and use your multimeter to check for continuity

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slo_dave

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bmfcamaro
Hello,

I just got my kit and have it mostly built. My only hang up now is the power cable for the power supply. After cutting the end off I was left with two brown wires and a black which I think is weird. How do I determine which wire goes where?

PS By the way for anyone who has recently purchased a kit or thinking about it, mine was complete and no broken parts and shipped earlier than the 10 days they say it takes.

Just look at the attached picture and use your multimeter to check for continuity

Thank you, I just ended up just pulling out another one I had and cutting it. The new one had much better wiring and a green, black, and white set of wires. So much easier.

I finally fixed the problem I have been having with the squareness of my X & Y axis. Wow what a fight! The acrylic frame must be a bit twisted or something. In order to make the X & Y square I had to slide the right side frame bolt back like a half inch.

To measure how square these two axis were I used a piece of bed glass flat across the back of the X axis smooth rods and slid it down until it hit the bed. I placed my squares flat side on the glass and let the other side run down the heated bed. I loosened all 8 bolts that attach the acrylic frame to the bed frame and adjusted the bed frame until the heated bed was square with the X smooth rods.

After this I printed a case for my RepRap Discount Full Graphic Smart Controller and the pieces fit together perfectly! Very cool! I'm a bit worried that the acrylic frame will continue to warp over time but at least I have a good way to measure if it is off in the future. Any good links for replacement frames out there?

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DriftyDave
I finally fixed the problem I have been having with the squareness of my X & Y axis. Wow what a fight! The acrylic frame must be a bit twisted or something. In order to make the X & Y square I had to slide the right side frame bolt back like a half inch.

To measure how square these two axis were I used a piece of bed glass flat across the back of the X axis smooth rods and slid it down until it hit the bed. I placed my squares flat side on the glass and let the other side run down the heated bed. I loosened all 8 bolts that attach the acrylic frame to the bed frame and adjusted the bed frame until the heated bed was square with the X smooth rods.

After this I printed a case for my RepRap Discount Full Graphic Smart Controller and the pieces fit together perfectly! Very cool! I'm a bit worried that the acrylic frame will continue to warp over time but at least I have a good way to measure if it is off in the future. Any good links for replacement frames out there?

Great, I've been having issues with that thing too...
Could you post some photos of the adjustment process.
Thanks!

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Dan_FolgerTech
Hey Guys,

I just wanted to comment to Vanbot. I try to pop in here when I can but we have been so overwhelmed that I haven't had as much of an opportunity lately and for that I apologize.

We are working on a FAQ page on the website, an updated build guide, and possibly forums of our own!

These first 2 kits were definitely a learning experience for us and we definitely learned from the mistakes.

Our next kits and our upcoming fully assembled printer will be streamlined much better! We appreciate your business though and I think what people don't realize is there are only officially 3 of us here with the addition of our 2 new employees putting our kits together in the warehouse. We are working on hiring someone on for just support. I am glad there is a community like that that we can lean on in times when we can't handle the influx of emails. Although I do respond to everyone personally, sometimes it is not as fast as myself or they would like.

But again we are working on it! It's a slow process but we are getting there!

Thanks for dropping in and explaining Dan. It is evident that you guys are swamped with orders and it's great that you've found a way to put together an inexpensive kit that allows a lot of people to get a 3D printer. I do think it's really important that you make an effort to provide better support to your existing customers though or I think you risk turning a lot of people off.

It's good to hear you have plans to improve your support with an FAQ and especially that you are updating the manual. Even the fact that the photos in the current manual are all of black parts on a black background sometimes makes it difficult to figure out how things go together.

Has anyone upgraded to an E3D v6 hot end with a direct drive extruder? I want to upgrade but I do not want the added weight of a wade extruder on the x carraige. I've seen some bowden setups but don't want the headache of a bowden, I change colors a lot.

So if someone has switched out, please point me in the direction of the extruder you printed out for the E3d

Thanks

I've bought 1, actually 2 but haven't hooked them up yet to use. May save them for the next build (have got to stop buying parts, have enough now to build at least 2 more full kits). Have also looked for the ideal setup to use. I have printed out most of the parts for a Wades and to be honest I don't think there would be any more weight than the setup I already have.

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Tardisrepair
Has anyone upgraded to an E3D v6 hot end with a direct drive extruder? I want to upgrade but I do not want the added weight of a wade extruder on the x carraige. I've seen some bowden setups but don't want the headache of a bowden, I change colors a lot.

So if someone has switched out, please point me in the direction of the extruder you printed out for the E3d

Thanks

I looked for a direct drive that I liked for my E3D for awhile and gave up. I could probably model one up fairly quickly, but I really like my current set up(wade extruder). I haven't had any problems with the wimpy stepper motor that comes with the kit I even attached a cooling fan. It does get a little warm, but it got warm before I switched as well.

You might want to try this one. [www.thingiverse.com]
It looks like it should bolt right up to the x-carriage.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/28/2015 04:03PM by dbrewski.

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pabloevaristo
Great, I've been having issues with that thing too...
Could you post some photos of the adjustment process.
Thanks!

First loosen the 8 nuts that attach the bed frame to the acrylic frame. Raise the extruder to 35mm and move the heated bed to about 100mm. Place the glass up against the X axis smooth rods as shown in the picture. Then use a decent square to check that the bed is square with the x axis. If you need adjustment you can move the bed frame a bit until you are square. Once you are square just tighten the nuts back up making sure not to move the acrylic frame or bed frame as you do. Check to make sure you are still square after the nuts are tight.

I tried to show the important pieces in the two pictures below. Let me know if you have any questions.

Speaking of questions, anyone else not able to run the smart controller unless the USB cable is plugged in??

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DriftyDave

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pabloevaristo
Great, I've been having issues with that thing too...
Could you post some photos of the adjustment process.
Thanks!

First loosen the 8 nuts that attach the bed frame to the acrylic frame. Raise the extruder to 35mm and move the heated bed to about 100mm. Place the glass up against the X axis smooth rods as shown in the picture. Then use a decent square to check that the bed is square with the x axis. If you need adjustment you can move the bed frame a bit until you are square. Once you are square just tighten the nuts back up making sure not to move the acrylic frame or bed frame as you do. Check to make sure you are still square after the nuts are tight.

I tried to show the important pieces in the two pictures below. Let me know if you have any questions.

Speaking of questions, anyone else not able to run the smart controller unless the USB cable is plugged in??

Good squaring procedure. Mine needs that for sure. And it's probably not a bad idea to put some blue Loctite on those nuts when you do them up again so that they don't loosen up.

I couldn't get my Full Graphics smart controller to work at all with Folger's firmware. If you got that to work would you mind posting your firmware so I can have a look? I did get it working with some other firmware but then other strange things started happening like Reptier would no longer connect to my printer.

Vanbot:

I used the Marlin software set from GitHub and modified that configuration.h to have the same settings as Folger file. I believe the Folger set of files is missing some support files for the full graphics controller. I have attached my configuration.h if you want to use it. My endstop switches are at the back of the machine.

DriftyDave:

You need diode D1 on the Ramps board to power the Arduino from the Ramps board. My board has this diode and I don't need the USB cable plugged in. Do a search for more info on the diode.

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Ecky
DriftyDave:

You need diode D1 on the Ramps board to power the Arduino from the Ramps board. My board has this diode and I don't need the USB cable plugged in. Do a search for more info on the diode.

Thanks Ecky. When I get a replacement Full Graphics controller from Dan at Folger I'll try your firmware out.

I used the latest Marlin from GitHub and had to add the U8glib library to my Arduino software to get the controller to function. Took some editing of Configuration.h to match everything up and there is a ton of extra stuff in the new version. Over all it went well.

I think I'll probably add that Diode but I might be lazy and just plug the arduino into a USB brick. Thanks for the info! I ended up reading all sorts of stuff on the Ramps board on the Wiki.

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DriftyDave

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pabloevaristo
Great, I've been having issues with that thing too...
Could you post some photos of the adjustment process.
Thanks!

First loosen the 8 nuts that attach the bed frame to the acrylic frame. Raise the extruder to 35mm and move the heated bed to about 100mm. Place the glass up against the X axis smooth rods as shown in the picture. Then use a decent square to check that the bed is square with the x axis. If you need adjustment you can move the bed frame a bit until you are square. Once you are square just tighten the nuts back up making sure not to move the acrylic frame or bed frame as you do. Check to make sure you are still square after the nuts are tight.

I tried to show the important pieces in the two pictures below. Let me know if you have any questions.

Speaking of questions, anyone else not able to run the smart controller unless the USB cable is plugged in??

THanks for the pictures. I wil try that later.
About the full graphic , I've not been able to make it work...
I'll try with the configuration file from @Ecky, thx you too!

My hotend stopped extruding and I now have the dreaded clicking. I found a broken piece of filament under the drive gear and removed it and tried to extrude some ABS, however the filament makes it to the hotend but never out the nozzle. The nozzle is still bleeding a little bit but I can't get a line to extrude, only clicking. I'm guessing there is a clog, but I tried to stick a thin guitar string down the tube to remove some of the melted plastic but it's still not extruding. Any tips?

I haven't received my kit yet, but have been doing a lot of reading and am thoroughly confusing myself about the endstops.. hoping someone can help clarify for me..

The Makerbot style endstops that come with the kit - are they normally open or normally closed? I guess what has me confused is that endstops without the PCB use 2 wires, the common and either NC/NO - depending on how you want the endstop to function. In looking at pictures of the Makerbot style endstops, both the NC and NO pins are soldered to the board.

How does it work with the Makerbot style endstops with 3 wires? Is VCC only used to power the LED?

Is NC/NO configurable via Marlin via this piece of code?

// Mechanical endstop with COM to ground and NC to Signal uses "false" here (most common setup).
const bool X_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = false; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
const bool Y_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = false; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
const bool Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = false; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
const bool X_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = false; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
const bool Y_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = false; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
const bool Z_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = false; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
const bool Z_PROBE_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = false; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop

Thanks!

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widespreaddeadhead
My hotend stopped extruding and I now have the dreaded clicking. I found a broken piece of filament under the drive gear and removed it and tried to extrude some ABS, however the filament makes it to the hotend but never out the nozzle. The nozzle is still bleeding a little bit but I can't get a line to extrude, only clicking. I'm guessing there is a clog, but I tried to stick a thin guitar string down the tube to remove some of the melted plastic but it's still not extruding. Any tips?

Have you looked inside the tip of the hotend to see if any filament is still in there? Hold it up to a light and see if it's clear.

Is there plastic stuck in the teeth of your drive gear? It can cause filament to slip inside the extruder.

I have some clicking with mine too and haven't figured out what is causing it other than that the hotend Folger supplies isn't very good. :-)

Yeah I responded to your thread too, I'll just keep to that one.

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Vanbot
the hotend Folger supplies isn't very good. :-)

You continually say stuff like this which could give someone the wrong impression. I have had no problems with my hotend, clicking or anything else. My full graphics contoller worked 5 minutes after I followed the guidance (Toms) and has worked flawlessly ever sense.

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krwynn

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Vanbot
the hotend Folger supplies isn't very good. :-)

You continually say stuff like this which could give someone the wrong impression. I have had no problems with my hotend, clicking or anything else. My full graphics contoller worked 5 minutes after I followed the guidance (Toms) and has worked flawlessly ever sense.

I do but I'm certainly not the only person saying things like this about these extruders or these kits.

My Full Graphics card would simply not work with the Folger firmware (and I followed Tom's guide as well) and then would not read any SD card unless I pulled up on it to press the contacts together. So now I'm waiting however long it will take for a replacement to get here.

I had to shave down my stepper plug and bend the pins over to get the plug to fit next to the Z stick.

The configuration manual showed incorrect settings for Printer Shape settings until I told Folger about it at which point they changed it. :-)

It took more than twice as long for my kit to ship as I had been told it would. It was a month before I got it.

So if someone reads about my experience they're not really getting the wrong impression, because it all really happened, just not a completely positive one. I've learned a lot about how these things work but it's also been quite frustrating at times.

For example, when I connected my end stop plugs per Folger's manual my X axis didn't work right. It moved left when I instructed a move to the right and vice versa. So I thought about it and realized that the manual says to plug the X end stop into the Min position but the actual X end stop is in the Max position on the printer. So I moved that plug to the Max position and tried it again. It still moved backwards and when I hit the X Home button it would move to the left instead of the right, which is where it should go since that's where the end stop is.

So to get it working right I had to both change that end stop plug to the Max position on the RAMPS and reverse the the motor plug. Sorry but I just don't think a manual should be getting basic things like that so wrong. In fact I still haven't got it completely resolved since now my X axis prints mirrored.

Are you saying you built yours exactly according to the manual and had no issues with end stops or motors?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/29/2015 08:18PM by Vanbot.

I built mine as given in the manual and had to only file the frame a little and i had some shorts in the drivers - but other than that both the software and the manual were fine. Vanbot - you must have configured yours incorrectly and most likely from the details about the endstop placement from the forum. My origin is in the top right corner and that is not a problem.

Now, I do not have issues with the extruder clicking unless the following occurs:
*Bed not level - extruder cannot extrude plastic on to bed, jamming in the into hot end and causing clicks on feed
*Plastic extrusion feed too high for hot end - This is based on filament entering the hot zone and not being melted and extruded by proper feeding. This is a symptom of too low of temps and can exist on high infill prints where you feed high volumes at high speeds.
*Physical jams - Never happened on my Folger Tech, but this can occur with improper filament size and other mechanical issues.

I've not had an issue that wasn't rooted in my own ignorance or poor calibration settings - and fixing that is part of calibrating your machine. FolgerTech and all of the reprap community is not to the point of turnkey machines - where you config and let it fly forever on the settings provided. My PLA rolls are all different in temps and properties - learn everything you can and try to think critically about a problem before asking for help.

The worst part of the construction manual was references to improper screw sizes (18mm when 16mm lengths were sent) and that was a no brainer. Could have used a diagram for the endstop placements - oh well, simple in practice. The photo shown on the manual matched my setup exactly and it works without fiddling with the firmware or anything. Criticism where criticism is due - you purchased the machine knowing that it required a sound knowledge of the mechanics, software and electrical work needed. This is not a novice kit you purchased and that's why I didn't have half the issues you did - I knew exactly what needed to be done in advance of even looking at the manual. Though always read twice and construct once.

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Chris Rap
I built mine as given in the manual and had to only file the frame a little and i had some shorts in the drivers - but other than that both the software and the manual were fine. Vanbot - you must have configured yours incorrectly and most likely from the details about the endstop placement from the forum. My origin is in the top right corner and that is not a problem.

I've not had an issue that wasn't rooted in my own ignorance or poor calibration settings - and fixing that is part of calibrating your machine. FolgerTech and all of the reprap community is not to the point of turnkey machines - where you config and let it fly forever on the settings provided. My PLA rolls are all different in temps and properties - learn everything you can and try to think critically about a problem before asking for help.

The worst part of the construction manual was references to improper screw sizes (18mm when 16mm lengths were sent) and that was a no brainer. Could have used a diagram for the endstop placements - oh well, simple in practice. The photo shown on the manual matched my setup exactly and it works without fiddling with the firmware or anything. Criticism where criticism is due - you purchased the machine knowing that it required a sound knowledge of the mechanics, software and electrical work needed. This is not a novice kit you purchased and that's why I didn't have half the issues you did - I knew exactly what needed to be done in advance of even looking at the manual. Though always read twice and construct once.

Almost the same as my experience to the letter. I've had one jam which was my fault. I had clicking once and that was because I was trying to retract instead of feed. My order took exactly 17 days from order to delivery. I've ordered many more items from Folger Tech and normal shipping time is usually 2-3 days. During those 17 days I read the manual at least 5 times, and watched this series on youtube probably 3 times beginning to end. I read this forum beginning to end 2-3 times. Needless to say I was well prepared for any curves that might have come. I also emailed back and forth a few times with the person who created that youtube series and Mindrealm from these forums. Both were extremely helpful and were able to immeditely resolve anything I couldn't quite figure out. Above, Vanbot refers to "Folger's Firmware". Thats a red flag to me as Folger doesn't have any firmware, there is a Folger Tech version of Marlin firmware, which is to get you in the ballpark. If you aren't running v1.0.2 of Marlin, there again you are most likely going to have issues as there are many suggestions in this thread based on the old version that Folger Tech refers too and the newer version of Marlin. I immediately used the new version and copied specific info from Folgers recommendations and worked from there.

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krwynn

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Vanbot
the hotend Folger supplies isn't very good. :-)

You continually say stuff like this which could give someone the wrong impression. I have had no problems with my hotend, clicking or anything else. My full graphics contoller worked 5 minutes after I followed the guidance (Toms) and has worked flawlessly ever sense.

Lucky you.
Unfortunately there seem to be more people with issues with them than there are people without issues.



I'm also still waiting to hear back from them for an issue. Almost 2 weeks now....

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Chris Rap
I built mine as given in the manual and had to only file the frame a little and i had some shorts in the drivers - but other than that both the software and the manual were fine. Vanbot - you must have configured yours incorrectly and most likely from the details about the endstop placement from the forum. My origin is in the top right corner and that is not a problem.

Now, I do not have issues with the extruder clicking unless the following occurs:
*Bed not level - extruder cannot extrude plastic on to bed, jamming in the into hot end and causing clicks on feed
*Plastic extrusion feed too high for hot end - This is based on filament entering the hot zone and not being melted and extruded by proper feeding. This is a symptom of too low of temps and can exist on high infill prints where you feed high volumes at high speeds.
*Physical jams - Never happened on my Folger Tech, but this can occur with improper filament size and other mechanical issues.

I've not had an issue that wasn't rooted in my own ignorance or poor calibration settings - and fixing that is part of calibrating your machine. FolgerTech and all of the reprap community is not to the point of turnkey machines - where you config and let it fly forever on the settings provided. My PLA rolls are all different in temps and properties - learn everything you can and try to think critically about a problem before asking for help.

The worst part of the construction manual was references to improper screw sizes (18mm when 16mm lengths were sent) and that was a no brainer. Could have used a diagram for the endstop placements - oh well, simple in practice. The photo shown on the manual matched my setup exactly and it works without fiddling with the firmware or anything. Criticism where criticism is due - you purchased the machine knowing that it required a sound knowledge of the mechanics, software and electrical work needed. This is not a novice kit you purchased and that's why I didn't have half the issues you did - I knew exactly what needed to be done in advance of even looking at the manual. Though always read twice and construct once.

So the fact that the Bed Left and Bed Front values need to be 0,0 and not 200,200 didn't cause you any problems?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/30/2015 09:28PM by Vanbot.

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krwynn

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Chris Rap
I built mine as given in the manual and had to only file the frame a little and i had some shorts in the drivers - but other than that both the software and the manual were fine. Vanbot - you must have configured yours incorrectly and most likely from the details about the endstop placement from the forum. My origin is in the top right corner and that is not a problem.

I've not had an issue that wasn't rooted in my own ignorance or poor calibration settings - and fixing that is part of calibrating your machine. FolgerTech and all of the reprap community is not to the point of turnkey machines - where you config and let it fly forever on the settings provided. My PLA rolls are all different in temps and properties - learn everything you can and try to think critically about a problem before asking for help.

The worst part of the construction manual was references to improper screw sizes (18mm when 16mm lengths were sent) and that was a no brainer. Could have used a diagram for the endstop placements - oh well, simple in practice. The photo shown on the manual matched my setup exactly and it works without fiddling with the firmware or anything. Criticism where criticism is due - you purchased the machine knowing that it required a sound knowledge of the mechanics, software and electrical work needed. This is not a novice kit you purchased and that's why I didn't have half the issues you did - I knew exactly what needed to be done in advance of even looking at the manual. Though always read twice and construct once.

Almost the same as my experience to the letter. I've had one jam which was my fault. I had clicking once and that was because I was trying to retract instead of feed. My order took exactly 17 days from order to delivery. I've ordered many more items from Folger Tech and normal shipping time is usually 2-3 days. During those 17 days I read the manual at least 5 times, and watched this series on youtube probably 3 times beginning to end. I read this forum beginning to end 2-3 times. Needless to say I was well prepared for any curves that might have come. I also emailed back and forth a few times with the person who created that youtube series and Mindrealm from these forums. Both were extremely helpful and were able to immeditely resolve anything I couldn't quite figure out. Above, Vanbot refers to "Folger's Firmware". Thats a red flag to me as Folger doesn't have any firmware, there is a Folger Tech version of Marlin firmware, which is to get you in the ballpark. If you aren't running v1.0.2 of Marlin, there again you are most likely going to have issues as there are many suggestions in this thread based on the old version that Folger Tech refers too and the newer version of Marlin. I immediately used the new version and copied specific info from Folgers recommendations and worked from there.

I know I've been a little hard on Folger but I've also only been honest about my experience and my comments haven't been rude or anything. And most importantly I'm just trying to nail down some facts so that I can get mine working right!

I was, of course, referring to the Marlin firmware that Folger has on their Google Docs page. Call me crazy but I was a little surprised to find out that the their firmware and hardware don't work together as supplied. E.g. I've got my end stops physically located exactly where Folger says to put them, I have my X motor facing backwards on the right side the way they say to do and I had my end stops plugged in exactly the way they instruct. But then, when I had problems with my X stepper not homing and moving backwards, I had to change the plug position on the board to get it to work right. I don't know how you and I could follow the exact same directions and use the exact same firmware and have completely different experiences but it seems we have.

The one issue that has been my fault was when I broke my SD card because the only way I could get my Full Graphic card reader to read it was to bend the card. So I did that one too many times and broke my SD card. Lol

My extruder actually has never jammed but it clicks a lot. It seems to click less when I turn up the heat to 197 but then I see scorching on lighter coloured filaments.

Looking at the example of the X end stop, I'd be really interested to hear from others about how this works. The location of the X end stop is a Max position correct? Which means the end stop should be plugged into the Max position on the board? Or should it work right plugged into the Min position because of the fact that the X motor faces backwards?

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dbrewski

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enzo1027
I need some assistance from anyone who feels like offering. I am experiencing some issues mid-print where it will just stop completely. Twice in the past week I've left Johnny5 printing, and come back to the extruder in some random spot in the print just sitting there. My LCD is back at its main screen, and the bed and extruder stay on. Has anyone else had any experience with this? I print from my SD card with my USB plugged into a 120 to 5V cell charger. Maybe power issues?

Today I also noticed that in the middle of the print, the machine slowed to a super crawl. I'd seen it once before, but just dismissed it the same. I happened to be sitting right next to it when it slowed down exponentially. The printer was still at 100% speed, but I was able to crank it up to 400% and it seemed to take me back to normal.

Well, any help would be great. Thanks everyone!


-Dave

P.S. Anybody located in Ohio?

Off the top of my head, below are a few things I would look at first.

Have you tried running it from a PC?
What does your wiring look like?
Could something be getting snagged at a certain z height?
How hot are your stepper motors getting?
Do you have any cooling on your ramps board?
Have you tried just wiggling wires around during a print to see if cuts out? (looking for a lose connection)

ARGHHHHH!!!! It has happened again! I just got my baby back up and running after a whole bunch of new bearings and fan mounts, etc. Again, a failed print. This time the display says 2 hours 40 minutes. It just stopped mid-print. My hot-end and bed are still on.

I've added a battery back up UPS, put a 60mm fan on my ramps board. All the wires have good continuity through all build ranges of motion. I'm on a new arduino and ramps(fried the 5v on the old one). This time, I was only running off of my 120 power supply, no USB. I've got a fan on my x-axis motor, which was the only one that got "hot" for me.

I'm losing my mind with this damn thing. It prints beautifully, while it is printing; which is apparently only for short periods of time...


HELP!

I would suggest that you uninstall Repetier Host and reinstall, or whichever program you are using to slice with.

And...

When you slice your project, make sure that ALL layers are being shown/represented in the preview tap.
...Good Luck

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/01/2015 12:05AM by 55rebel.

Vanbot - I didn't modify any the firmware settings and I didn't have any issue - the manual from Folger Tech gives what sounds like contradictory information, but a picture shows how to configure it to the Ramps and the text (no picture) says to set it up as such.

Printing at .4 layers at 60 mm/s + extrusion speed results in clicking do to improper filament melting. This is the Achilles heel of the Folger Tech machines - at high speeds you need higher temps because the extruder cannot melt the filament at the required speeds. I use 1.75 mm - which is better than 3 mm for this, but it is something you need to tweak with. In a week - I've almost run out of my 1 kg roll and I printed a bunch of the 1:200 scale tanks, jeeps and stuff from thingiverse at .1 mm. I've gotten a bunch of calibration stuff out, a 3D benchy, a big SD card reader, two DS game holders, a pile of toys and tanks, a chunky bracelet, Gnomedozer - Oh so much more to print. Right now my machine has run for probably 12+ hours today, still tweaking - still improving.

Also, I am still using a piece of paper on top of my heated glass bed - no warping no issues with the PLA. Just a little double sided tape and I can swap it out if need be. It also works directly on the heated bed, but its a pain to clean double sided tape off the heatbed. Seriously resolved the print adhesion issues.

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enzo1027

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dbrewski

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enzo1027
I need some assistance from anyone who feels like offering. I am experiencing some issues mid-print where it will just stop completely. Twice in the past week I've left Johnny5 printing, and come back to the extruder in some random spot in the print just sitting there. My LCD is back at its main screen, and the bed and extruder stay on. Has anyone else had any experience with this? I print from my SD card with my USB plugged into a 120 to 5V cell charger. Maybe power issues?

Today I also noticed that in the middle of the print, the machine slowed to a super crawl. I'd seen it once before, but just dismissed it the same. I happened to be sitting right next to it when it slowed down exponentially. The printer was still at 100% speed, but I was able to crank it up to 400% and it seemed to take me back to normal.

Well, any help would be great. Thanks everyone!


-Dave

P.S. Anybody located in Ohio?

Off the top of my head, below are a few things I would look at first.

Have you tried running it from a PC?
What does your wiring look like?
Could something be getting snagged at a certain z height?
How hot are your stepper motors getting?
Do you have any cooling on your ramps board?
Have you tried just wiggling wires around during a print to see if cuts out? (looking for a lose connection)

ARGHHHHH!!!! It has happened again! I just got my baby back up and running after a whole bunch of new bearings and fan mounts, etc. Again, a failed print. This time the display says 2 hours 40 minutes. It just stopped mid-print. My hot-end and bed are still on.

I've added a battery back up UPS, put a 60mm fan on my ramps board. All the wires have good continuity through all build ranges of motion. I'm on a new arduino and ramps(fried the 5v on the old one). This time, I was only running off of my 120 power supply, no USB. I've got a fan on my x-axis motor, which was the only one that got "hot" for me.

I'm losing my mind with this damn thing. It prints beautifully, while it is printing; which is apparently only for short periods of time...


HELP!

I wonder if it would help to cool your RAMPS with a fan.