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Waltermixx

My extruder came with two nuts, tightened up against the hot block. I removed one and now I only have one nut now tightened up against the cooling block...

OK. I added a zinc m6 nut but the problem persists. Looking around on the internet it seems I may need to clean my tip. I did that yesterday and it helped for a very sorry while. I'll try again today. In also going to order some different filament just in case. What filament ate you guys using and having success with? I ordered a spool of abs from Folger with my kit and I'm wondering if it's just crappy filament even though I did get some good prints out of it to start with.

can you post pictures of your extruder close up, hot end and cooling block
and how far up the threaded hole in the cooling block are you?

here is a pic of mine

closer pic:

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/23/2014 11:54AM by Waltermixx.

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Waltermixx
can you post pictures of your extruder close up, hot end and cooling block
and how far up the threaded hole in the cooling block are you?

here is a pic of mine

15860418735_86eca7070d_o.jpg

closer pic:

15238208744_a418b61a68_o.jpg

Here are pictures of my extruder from a few different angles. I have the tip off soaking in some actone to try to get it cleaned out right now. I have the threaded rod all the way up the cooling block so that it is about flush at the top of the cooling block. That nut you see in the pictures I put on as an attempt to see if adding mass for cooling would help. It did not. Like I said, extruding without a tip it flows smoothly for as long as keep extruding, reverse works fine, forward with the tip in starts to work then it clicks as if the motor is missing a step due to not having the power to push through. I'm sure the tip is hot enough because plastic melts out on it's own if it's down there. And I've tried 220, 225 and 230 with all the same results. I've also tried both slowing down and speeding up the extrusion rate. When it's running at the normal rate (100 mm/min) it clicks in a very regular pattern, when I slow it down to < 50 mm/min the clicking isn't quite as regular. I'll get three or four very regular clicks and then the next one is off by a fraction of a second and then it goes back to regular clicking.

Once I clean the tip I'll try again and if it continues to click I'll take a video and post that to show you what it's doing.

Your fan is facing the wrong way...
it should be label in, not label facing out...
so perhaps it is not cooling the cool end properly...
it makes a difference... other than that it does look good.

how hot does your cooling block get? it should get pretty warm, but never hot...
if it's hot, then the heat travels up the ABS and the gear in the feeder can not get traction on soft ABS...

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/23/2014 01:11PM by Waltermixx.

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Gannicus
Sorry to keep making so many replies guys, but I notice on every Prusa kit BESIDES this one, the idlers have tensioner screws in them. My Y axis belt is tight (though it could stand to be a bit tighter) but my X has a lot of slop in it. I don't like the idea of the metal tension clips, as they must interfere at some point, and would rather have a proper adjustment for it.

Does anyone have a STL of either, preferably the X, but I'd love them both.

Thanks!

Not sure if the Folger kit uses "rework" design X-motor/idler, but if it does this is what I use on my rework
[www.thingiverse.com]

Steve

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My updated Instructable on our Prusa i3 Build
[www.instructables.com]

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Waltermixx
Your fan is facing the wrong way...
it should be label in, not out...
so perhaps it is not cooling the cool end properly...
it makes a difference... other than that it does look good.

Are you sure? I'm pretty sure that the fan was in that orientation when I got the extruder. I'll take it off and take a look.

Ok, took it off and found that there are labels on both sides, but the screws are really meant to go in from one side, the side I have them going in through so I'm pretty sure that they are right.

Front:



Back:

Ok, so I cleaned my tip and replaced it and I was able to get about 80mm of filament to push through the extruder successfully. I've backed out 20 MM to try to keep the tip clear and I've turned it off for the moment. I'll probably try to print something later but I need to leave the house soon and didn't want to leave while I had something on the printer. I'm not quite that confident yet.

Also, if anyone knows of a shop in the Tampa Bay area that carries parts for 3D printers, I would appreciate it. I'd love to be able to just run out and grab a couple of new tips so if this happens again I can just swap tips while I wait for one to get cleaned. Maybe I'll buy a few since on Folgers website they are 2.99 each.

Here's a review of the Folgertech Prusa i3... on youtube

[www.youtube.com]

it's about 25 minutes long

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SteveRoy

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Gannicus
Sorry to keep making so many replies guys, but I notice on every Prusa kit BESIDES this one, the idlers have tensioner screws in them. My Y axis belt is tight (though it could stand to be a bit tighter) but my X has a lot of slop in it. I don't like the idea of the metal tension clips, as they must interfere at some point, and would rather have a proper adjustment for it.

Does anyone have a STL of either, preferably the X, but I'd love them both.

Thanks!

Not sure if the Folger kit uses "rework" design X-motor/idler, but if it does this is what I use on my rework
[www.thingiverse.com]

Steve

Thanks SteveRoy. I ended up just throwing on the belt tensioner clip that came in the kit as suggested by Walter, and it did the trick nicely. I've managed to get rid of the lash, just need to fix the first layer, and I'll be in fine tuning tweak mode!

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Waltermixx
Here's a review of the Folgertech Prusa i3... on youtube

[www.youtube.com]

it's about 25 minutes long

This you Walter?

No that is not me, wish I could grow my hair that long again, been a long time
if I did it would be all gray and not look quite as cool...


Ok sorry, I was basing this on my fan, and makerbot replicator 2 fan, where the label faces in...
direction of air should be into the fan, not blowing out of the fan, if that helps. , so it should be sucking air in,
and blowing it towards the heat sink... Too bad i was really hoping that was the issue...

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louspinuso

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Waltermixx
Your fan is facing the wrong way...
it should be label in, not out...
so perhaps it is not cooling the cool end properly...
it makes a difference... other than that it does look good.

Are you sure? I'm pretty sure that the fan was in that orientation when I got the extruder. I'll take it off and take a look.

Ok, took it off and found that there are labels on both sides, but the screws are really meant to go in from one side, the side I have them going in through so I'm pretty sure that they are right.

Front:

[attachment 44198 extruderfanfront.jpg]

Back:

[attachment 44199 extruderfanback.jpg]

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/23/2014 02:25PM by Waltermixx.

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Waltermixx

Ok sorry, I was basing this on my fan, and makerbot replicator 2 fan, where the label faces in...
direction of air should be into the fan, not blowing out of the fan, if that helps. , so it should be sucking air in,
and blowing it towards the heat sink... Too bad i was really hoping that was the issue...

Yeah, the fan is sucking air in. I would have loved for that to be the problem too, would've been an easy fix. I'll try printing again later with the clean tip and see how long that lasts.

Bad news today... Less than 100 hours printing. The hotend started to twist during printing, then fall out.

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Collective intelligence emerges when a group of people work together effectively. Prusa i3 Folger (A lot of the parts are wrong, boring !)

That sucks Zav.

I plan on ordering the E3DV6 bowden here as soon as I can.

That looks like it completely sheared off!!

How does that even happen?

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Gannicus
Sorry to keep making so many replies guys, but I notice on every Prusa kit BESIDES this one, the idlers have tensioner screws in them. My Y axis belt is tight (though it could stand to be a bit tighter) but my X has a lot of slop in it. I don't like the idea of the metal tension clips, as they must interfere at some point, and would rather have a proper adjustment for it.

Does anyone have a STL of either, preferably the X, but I'd love them both.

Thanks!

here is the link to the one I printed and used. it has a tensioner, and the m3 nut is dropped into a slot, a very good design.



the stack of cards under the y-endstop, are GreenP parking receipts, they are thinner than business card, but thicker than a post it note, perfect for leveling the build plate under the nozel...
once side of the receipt is heat sensitive, so as you slide it between the nozel and the build plate, it leaves a black streak on the paper, gives a good visual reference on how easy it was to slide the paper through...
too easy and there is no black trail, just right, a great think black trail... that was just as a side note... i have tons of these from the partking lot i park at and they seem perfect for checking the bed.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/23/2014 04:54PM by Waltermixx.

Just to add to the general info I recently picked up a tube of 'Super Lube' a multipurpose synthetic lube with PTFE in it from Harbor Freight, I luck out in having an actual brick and mortar one a couple of miles away, for about 7 bucks. I saw this lube recommended on the reprap wiki page for lubrication and I must say after putting it on both the smooth and threaded rods everything is quieter and smoother feeling when I move the carriages by hand. Much better than the squeaking I was getting during prints

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Zavashier
Bad news today... Less than 100 hours printing. The hotend started to twist during printing, then fall out.

Maybe this is a clue for people that are having problems with extruding filament.

This may be a silly question but can someone tell me where these bearings go?

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Wpflum
Just to add to the general info I recently picked up a tube of 'Super Lube' a multipurpose synthetic lube with PTFE in it from Harbor Freight, I luck out in having an actual brick and mortar one a couple of miles away, for about 7 bucks. I saw this lube recommended on the reprap wiki page for lubrication and I must say after putting it on both the smooth and threaded rods everything is quieter and smoother feeling when I move the carriages by hand. Much better than the squeaking I was getting during prints

I've got two within relatively close distance. I'll pick some up tomorrow

they will most likely go in the spool holder you print for your printer...

they are spares... i had those as well. so i used them in a spool holder

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Waltermixx
they will most likely go in the spool holder you print for your printer...

they are spares... i had those as well. so i used them in a spool holder

Awesome. I thought I forgot to put them in somewhere at the beginning of the build. I looked all over and could see nowhere where they fit. Thanks!

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Easy

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Zavashier
Bad news today... Less than 100 hours printing. The hotend started to twist during printing, then fall out.

Maybe this is a clue for people that are having problems with extruding filament.

Well I just finished printing and it went pretty well except that my corners started curling up during the printing. Turns out that while I was working in my office, my wife turned the AC back on (since the temps and humidity are back up here in FL) so I think that's what caused that. I'm going to have to reset my Z axis also after all this taking apart putting together. I was pretty sure I had done that before starting my print but it looks like one side of my bed is A LOT lower than the other side so I'll work on that in the morning and see if I can set a print to go.

If I can get a couple of good prints out of the printer in the next few days, I'll tell you all how I cleaned my tip.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/23/2014 08:51PM by louspinuso.

Zavashier ,

Exact same place I broke mine. That throat is awfully thin!. You can pick them up from Ebay for next to nothing, just make sure they have the PTFE (Teflon) tube inside. There isn't enough of a heat break without it.

I used those bearings for a spool holder as well. Though you can also use them for the wades extruder if you ever feel like ditching the direct drive.

So I have been waiting for my kit to ship and have been reading 3D Printing for Dummies. If anyone gets this skip the first 9 chapters.

After that it starts giving the instructions to build a Prusa i3 kit and set it up. The book also covers the popular software that goes to this printer and how to set that up also.

So I downloaded most of the free software for this and realize that it is going to take me a while to learn what the heck I am doing.

I have downloaded the Marlin files from some Github site, Ponterface from the Ponterface site, Slic3r from Slic3r, and Arduino IDE from the Arduino site.

Now to sort out what each one does and how it fits into the mix.

Anyway, So far 3D Printing for Dummies seems like the manual that was not included with the kit. I mean when I ordered the kit I knew that I needed software to run it but didn't know where to get started, except going back thru the thread and seeing what everyone was using. With the book, I have references to where to get the software and it also gives limited instructions on using most of it. I guess I will know if it was worth in in about a month or so.

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Easy

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Zavashier
Bad news today... Less than 100 hours printing. The hotend started to twist during printing, then fall out.

Maybe this is a clue for people that are having problems with extruding filament.

A clue ? Hmm. I realy don't know why that happens. I did not noticed any crack. I had no problems with extruding since the start, The steps per mm of the extruder needs no adjusting. My parts were pretty clean and without any gap between paths. Looking at the unfinished part, at the moment of the crash the flow was as good as expected. I guess that was something wrong into the steel or maybe a previous hit during the shipping. The package was in good shape, but I had some of the frame parts broken. I don't forget the kit is 100% chinese parts too.

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AKFoddy7
Zavashier, Exact same place I broke mine. That throat is awfully thin!. You can pick them up from Ebay for next to nothing, just make sure they have the PTFE (Teflon) tube inside. There isn't enough of a heat break without it.

I measured the wall thickness of the part at the break point, and it is 0.4 to 0.2mm because the hole is a bit off centre. Chinese parts... This is pretty thin, you're absolutely right. Same hardware should lead to same problems. I decided to upgrade the extruder to a shopmade E3D extruder. I wish things will be even better and will allow me to raise a bit the temperature. With the provided hot end, the filament gets a bit too hot in the tubing at 230°C during long prints. I measured with a IR thermometer and it gets up to 200°C, so you need to low the extruder temperature to 225 or lower. I thought the kit was a base, not a durable printer anyways.

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Collective intelligence emerges when a group of people work together effectively. Prusa i3 Folger (A lot of the parts are wrong, boring !)

Hey, there.
Amazing work.
But is your i3 kets using photoelectric limited switch?
And how about your printing speed?
The printing samples you printed looks great.

Is there a list of software that I need anywhere? This is my first 3D printer and I'm not sure which program I actually use to run the thing. I'm almost to the testing point and want to make sure I'm good to go when I get there. I have seen you guys talk about Pronterface, Slic3r, arduino software (i already have) and Marlin. What do I use first? Is there any tutorial anywhere?

Thanks!

Go to the Czar website, download the manuals and watch the videos.

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Collective intelligence emerges when a group of people work together effectively. Prusa i3 Folger (A lot of the parts are wrong, boring !)

Thoes would have probably been the y carrage pulley and the x carrage pulleys. In other systems they go side by side in place... hence four of them. We have two circular pieces that wedge a bearing inside them.