My first printer Geeetech i3 Pro (review so far)

Hi

So far so good for me also, but I do not trust the acrylic , so after few days printing and everything ok, I use superglue for the main frame, 2 sides, and motor supports.

in fact it is not the acrylic the problem, it is those sharp corners they cut who make the structure easy break. If one day they start to round all of this, it will be perfect

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/11/2015 07:02AM by Laopa.

I also forgot to mention that geeetech provides 8mm thick acrylic compared to those conventional other acrylic frame seller around 5-6mm only

Did any of you run the autotune routine to get you PID settings right? if so was the outcome better?

[reprap.org]

I did, I guess it is just to 'stabilize' the temp efficiently, I guess it does help though, doesn't have a lot of temp swings a lot

Hello! Good Night gentlemens, im from Mexico, and y have puchased this printer, exactly i have the C version (Dual Extruder), but i have some problems... and i want to know if you can helpme.


THIS IS THE PROBLEM.

I have a model (this: [www.myminifactory.com] ) and my Filament and Printf Configs. I have mi G-Code, and everything looks fine.
I start to print, but some minutes after, the printer start to go more and more low, and finally the printer stops and i cant to make it continue.
This happens when i try to printf from the PC, i use the Repetier-Host V0.90D, and Slic3r 1.1.7

Some extra Info:
When the printer stops, generally appears in Manual Control something like "waiting X comandos"
Or sometimes when i click the "Emergency Stop" button appears one window that say something like "The port COM-XX dosnt look to be connected, please verify... "
And another times i hear that sound that windows make when you connect or disconnect some device

Please, some help here, tanks in advice!

PS: Sorry for my bad english

Quote
KahosTch
Hello! Good Night gentlemens, im from Mexico, and y have puchased this printer, exactly i have the C version (Dual Extruder), but i have some problems... and i want to know if you can helpme.


THIS IS THE PROBLEM.

I have a model (this: [www.myminifactory.com] ) and my Filament and Printf Configs. I have mi G-Code, and everything looks fine.
I start to print, but some minutes after, the printer start to go more and more low, and finally the printer stops and i cant to make it continue.
This happens when i try to printf from the PC, i use the Repetier-Host V0.90D, and Slic3r 1.1.7

Some extra Info:
When the printer stops, generally appears in Manual Control something like "waiting X comandos"
Or sometimes when i click the "Emergency Stop" button appears one window that say something like "The port COM-XX dosnt look to be connected, please verify... "
And another times i hear that sound that windows make when you connect or disconnect some device

Please, some help here, tanks in advice!

PS: Sorry for my bad english

Ever tried using pronterface and other cable?

I only change the cable, and that dosnt work.
I will try with Pronterface and report.

Thank you!

Quote
KahosTch
I only change the cable, and that dosnt work.
I will try with Pronterface and report.

Thank you!

I forgot to request the i3c extruder mount from you, think you can share it here? I wanna have it just in case I might wanna mod it or something and for collection

Hi

What do you mean by the printer got more and more low?

If your computer loose the com port it can be from the cable bad quality, the USB port not fast enough, or USB port share with other devices like mouse, keyboard...
It happen to me with old computer.
Check this first.
Also
Try in configuration.h to reduce the communication speed. Also reduce in repetier host.

Quote
sarf2k4

Quote
KahosTch
I only change the cable, and that dosnt work.
I will try with Pronterface and report.

Thank you!

I forgot to request the i3c extruder mount from you, think you can share it here? I wanna have it just in case I might wanna mod it or something and for collection

I hope the attached images help you

Thank You for all the help!

I change the Cable, Again, change the diposition of the board, and print with only the printer connected (actually i have all the USB ports of my lapto occupied) and finally start to print with no problems... well...

Now the problem is that the figure take off of the bed... any advice to improve the quality of the print?

So much thankyou!

Hi

Looking at your printer, are you sure the 2 extruders are mounted correctly?
I will have flip them 180 deg to have the fan cool the heat blocker and not the back of the motors.

Check that again first. I have checked and yes, but if you read comments, some guys say it is useless also.

When you heat the filament, the nozzle became hot, but if you not cool the guide over the heat block, then the heat will go up and up and your melted filament will be too high.
Your liquid plastic is too high and you can control nothing.

I am not sure how to help you, or buy 2x E3D and mount them as bowden.
Or flip the motor if possible, cut the front plastic, and make a fan support to blow air on the top of the heat block and not on them.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/19/2015 10:08PM by Laopa.

Quote
Laopa
Hi

Looking at your printer, are you sure the 2 extruders are mounted correctly?
I will have flip them 180 deg to have the fan cool the heat blocker and not the back of the motors.

Check that again first. I have checked and yes, but if you read comments, some guys say it is useless also.

When you heat the filament, the nozzle became hot, but if you not cool the guide over the heat block, then the heat will go up and up and your melted filament will be too high.
Your liquid plastic is too high and you can control nothing.

I am not sure how to help you, or buy 2x E3D and mount them as bowden.
Or flip the motor if possible, cut the front plastic, and make a fan support to blow air on the top of the heat block and not on them.

Have you tested the extruder mount that I modded from yours? can give me a review? =)

Has anyone tried PET filament? It does not warp, and has no smell, so it it good for non-enclosed printers.

Yes I use it sometimes

But according to the function of your print, you will chose the plastic material.

PLA also have less wrap. But easy melt and break

ABS is good for mechanical parts...

Also you must consider time of print.

Thanks for the tips.

Bought this kit on the understanding it was cheap, and with the intention of using it as an "affordable" platform for build experience, and modding. OK the parts are a little sketchy, but the overall principle is good, and because it's relatively cheap, there is less inhibition in "trying another route" if needed :-).

Problems so far:

1. Guide rails: Surface corrosion, slightly bent (plate glass roll test). Both easily fixed (Brasso, and gentle use of rubber mallet).
2. Custom Mouldings: VERY light so not very much infill. Fortunately Geeetech have released the .STL files, so re-manufacture will be an early priority. Also considering having the parts recast in acrylic (home) or in zinc / aluminium (local industry).
3.MOSFET heating problems - these are cheap Chinese MOSFETS so performance is "just good enough". a dollar or two for an extra heatsink atop the three is a dollar well spent. Remember the sinks are at 12V when the MOSFETS are in the off state, so clearances will be important.
4. Stand-Offs: Nylon stand-off pillars will ensure a better airflow under and over the controller board.
5: Stepper Motor Controllers: Missing heat sinks. Easily fixed for a dollar!
6: Airflow (over main board) - Currently using a cardboard guide and a number of digital thermometers to see where I need to direct the flow the most. The "Standard" design is really bad in terms of effective use of fan output!
7. PSU provided is barely adequate, and probably very inadequate for long runs. For the near-identical machine Folger Tech provide a 350W SMPS, so that would be a useful extra purchase.
8. Zip ties are NOT an accepted long-term engineering fix. The holes are M3, so I've made up a set of alloy plates (with elastomer backing) to hold the linear bearings firmly in place for now. Might fabricate matching plates for the ABS mouldings if I proceed that way.
9: Drive belt tensioning: Trying out a spring-based tensioning system (the belts sag as they warm up). Others have noted that for good precision the belts have to be VERY tight, and this in turn raises concerns re. early wear on the stepper motor nose bearings.
10: Z axis M8 rod chafing: VERY tight fit in the top acrylic supports: Not enough native acrylic to bore out to take even a small 8mm I/d/ bearing, so a temporary fix was with a gentle ream and Brasso. Might have to rethink this configuration, but since it works (for the moment) there are more pressing concerns.

Probably more later. With time and a little extra cash investment this might turn ouot to be quite an OK entry-level machine. If nothing else it IS a good learning platform into what can go wrong, and how to fix it!!

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/16/2015 04:57PM by Parrotile.

Going to try a pair of 8mm i.d. pillow blocks to get around the top bearing problem. Might work, might not.

[www.ebay.com.au]

Hope your still following this thread.... I have geeetech i3B and the first real problem I had was the heat from the extruder was causing the printed extruder mount to sag messing up my prints. The first couple test prints worked but then it started to sag, once I figured this out I made a new mount out of a piece of 2.25 x 2.25 inch aluminum angle. That fixed my print coming loose and sagging extruder problem.

Now after about 8 months of light use, the printer seems to be having trouble getting up to printing temperature on both the extruder and the bed. I also found that the temperatures displayed were higher than the actual temperatures. I did the PID test and adjusted to the results. I raised the temperature settings til the extruder flowed properly 248*C for the extruder on ABS and 128*C for the bed. I adjusted the max temps to avoid tripping the safety feature.
Now it takes about 30 minutes to get to printing temps, but it can't keep the temp up. When the motors move to the start position the temps drop and it can't recover enough to print. Has anyone else seen this or know how to fix it? Thanks, Edward

It's almost certainly your power supply. Of the 4 Geeetech i3s me and my friend have, all of the power supplies had problems. 1 the voltage switch was broken, another only could put out 10 volts, the 3rd worked fine for about 8 months then suddenly could only put out 7 volts, and the last one, would cut out for a second or 2 every once in a while, which resulted in motor skips. Measure the voltage after everything is turned on and it will be low.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/19/2015 08:43AM by dhmclean.

hello everybody!

this is my first post here, and my very first experience in 3D printing

I bought as well a Geeetech printer to start my experience in 3D printers' world
my model is Geeetech i3 Pro as the thread, but with Sanguinololu 1.3a board, and MK8 1.75mm filament 0.3mm nozzle.

I read all the 3 pages to understand the generic problems of installation you found in this model and I tried following everything you initial tips
when I'll made the beast printing I'll upgrade with antiwobbles systems and other tips you shared!

right now my big problem is having a satisfactory print, in terms of filament filling, feeding and stuff like this...
the parts I produce looks like a sponge! or balls of furr!

honestly, I'm trying to print without calibrating anything, except temperatures for extruder and bed (I print PLA).
I'm using repetier host by Geeetech with stock printig profiles. I hoped the printer came working quite out of the box...

what are the essentials and non-avoidable calibrations I must do?
maybe installing an already calibrated firmware could help me having a "solid looking" print?

I am also having problems figuring out this printer. Geeetech Prusa i3 Pro C Duel Extruder. I've had mine for about a month. It showed up with a list of parts, but no instructions. Geeetech does has some instructions on their website, but they are not nearly complete. After re-designing the extruder carriage and printing it out with a separate XYZ Jr 3d printer, I was finally able to keep a print from dropping off of my base. But I have still not made a good print with this printer. The original extruder carriage allowed one of the extruders to hit one of the Z-Bars before coming into solid contact with the endstop switch. I've solved that problem. But the nozzles don't seem to be building up layers. Instead, the nozzles plow through previous layers without building on them.

I think that my problems are the setting, but there is nothing to tell me what the settings should be. Nor have I figured out what all of the setting actually mean. The base is level. Both Z-bars are equal. I did receive some sample settings from a technician, but they have not helped. The included photo shows a failed print which was made with the sample settings.


I am uploading images.
(Repetier-Host using Slic3r. Printed from memory card using on-board card reader. Repetier firmware.)

Lloyd

I am about to buy this printer but have fev questions if you guys can help me please?
[www.geeetech.com]
I like to buy this printer but is maded from acrylic frame and some users reports some troubles with it and also with dual extruders, is there really that many problems so it is better to buy single extruder?

also I am looking for single extruder with alu frame which is more stable and last longer than acrylic
[www.ebay.com]

Is it possible to upgrade this one to dual extruder and did anyone already do that and how?
Because I am thinking to buy this one with alu frame and upgrade it to dual extruder but don't know how and if I need to buy 1 extruder extra or I need to buy dual extruder
[www.ebay.com]
or
[www.ebay.com]

What you suggest is best?

As a 'newbie' thought I'd check in with some comments.
I've been using an Ekocyle printer for our robotics team for about a year - nice package but tempermental and limited in capabilities.
So I've recently put together a GeeeTech Prusa I3 X and appreciate the comments posted here.

The kit was received 12/25/15 (uhhh - guess that's pretty obvious).
Took about 3 days of a couple of hours a day to get it done.

As mentioned previously, the instructions are a bit sparse.
I printed out the 81 page assembly manual (not supplied - gotta go get it on their website).
That helped a lot but the videos (linked to the PDF file) were the most useful.
Even so, some details took a little puzzling - the extruder assembly and a couple of the switch mounts.

A nice thing - there are excess fasteners with the kit.
So many kits are supplied with just enough fasteners so the one that gets lost in the rug ruins the project.

With careful attention to the PDF instructions and the videos, the assembly went pretty well.
Decided to use the washers wherever a screw went in - even though they weren't called for in most places.
Tend to like stress relief with plastic parts ......

The confusing part was setting up the connectors as the instructions have the power and thermistor locations for the extruder and the hot plate reversed.
Eventually decided to go with the wiring diagram locations and that appears correct.
Getting all the wires tucked away was a pretty good trick - the extra cable ties and wraps were a big help.

Major issue was getting the z-axis to run smoothly.
Initiually the motors stalled completely.
After loosening most of the mounting bolts and liberally oiling the threaded rods, they moved modestly well.
What was then noticed was a 'wobble' in the right side rod and continued tightness in the threaded couplers.
Off to Lowe's for some M8-1.25 rod. Cut the 100cm rod into three pieces and took the best 2.
Ran them on a drill through an M8 nut liberally coated with a low viscosity grease.
Installed the new rods and leveled both sides with a micrometer and now all runs smoothly and quietly.
That original 'wobble' affected the extruder platform with the supplied rods.
That's now completely gone.

All of the functions of the on-board control system appear to work properly.
It auto-homes to the limit switches just fine.
The X, Y and Z motions with the default settings all run to their max values with very good precision.
Extruder and plate both seem to heat properly.

So I think my comment at this point is there apear to be some improvements to this kit - probably in reaction to comments posted on forums like this.
Thus far I'm pretty happy with it - although I have not had time to load the software and calibrate the gap and level the plate.
Hopefully soon.

But the biggest thing I found was the slight bend in the z-axis threaded rods AND some dings in the threads (probably from shipping) that caused rough spots.
The Y-axis threaded rods are fine as they're just for support.
But the Z's have to be right.
Fortunately all the smooth rods were good and all the linear bearings clean and functional.

These comments don't add much to the body of knowledge - but I benefited from reading your comments here before starting.
Thank you for posting that very useful information.

- D

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 12/30/2015 09:11AM by regdave.

Hello guys, I'm Italian and I have a problem with my printer. It stamp so bad I attach an image can you help me? Thanks

To one who wants to buy !!!!

I also took a chance and ordered the Geeetech Prusa i3 Pro B, from Geeetech Germany, on 5th of May, Building it is a very similar to you all, as I spent few weeks-ends. Some poeple seems to say that it finaly works. Yes - please have a look at Geeetech forum, where the extruder issues represents more than 50% of the problems,

I did not have the chance to see it working since I bought it! as the extruder NEVER work,despite all Geeetech forum wiki ...kiki ..advices ideas etc. I done everything from Motors Axes switch, wires test, voltage check, Arduino, Marlin, slic3r ,,,EVERyTHING!!! Maybe itäs the board broken! maybe not!

After two weeks of hard work I still wonder how is possible to sell something which doesnt work, never tested! 200 $ is cheap, but is a huge amount for paying nothing, except you are the lucky one and you ve got the one which works!

The CONCLUSION:

I DO NOT recommend this kit if you are NOT A LuCKy guy, And if you are the lucky one, put your money on a chance to win millions, so you can buy a 3d printer with a guarantee and tested bz the manufacturer, Hope this helps someone. Let me know if I can answer any questions.

I had problems too with the extruder.
After two weeks of troubleshooting I found that mine was affected by a problem in the molding tube.
The Teflon inner tube was too short creating a little empty room that clogged completely the extruder.
Try to disassemble the nozzle and the heater, to extract the Teflon tube and check that it's long enough. Use the metal stick to extract the inner tube.
Good luck!

Quote
alessandro01
Hello guys, I'm Italian and I have a problem with my printer. It stamp so bad I attach an image can you help me? Thanks

Ciao!
What version of Geeetech you?
The causes of the problem may be different, they may be steel bars that do not flow only in the linear bearings but also affect the structure so you have to enlarge the holes.
It could also be a misalignment in the z axis.
Must give me more clues I need to know the precise model the Geeetech is not precise in its models makes it and then you see a sends another with the guides of the plastic LM8UU instead of the aluminum ...
To make my i3x a good printer I had to hunt almost half the price more ... and now it has become another printer ... it was better if I was building ...

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/27/2016 07:57PM by Monzilla.

Made some short videos about my Geeetech printer


[youtu.be]

Hello I have been planning to switch to Cartesian type of printers after using Delta for some time . I am thinking for some models and out of which is Geeetech Prusa M210 which is $ 468 in which I can mix two colors or use as dual extruder . Is it really worth ? And Color blending use able ? If not then I will go for Tevo Black Widow which I found in one of the online store 3dprinterkart.com . Its $30 more than geeetech and bigger print area ? So since you guys can suggest me better which one is good Or All chinese kits are same?

This helped a lot to a friend of mine, no wobbling any more, and it is not expensive.
T8 - 2 - D8 300mm Stainless Steel + Chrome Steel Lead Screw
[www.gearbest.com]