Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread
Posted by jcabrer
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Re: Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread June 15, 2015 12:57PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 33 |
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jcabrer
For those of you struggling with bed leveling, some advixe. Auto Bed Leveling is not a feature. It is a crutch. Better to address the root cause of the problem, and either replace the bed, or resurface it to be flat. You can do this by adding a sheet of glass of thickness between 3 and 5mm. Use silicone adhesive against the edges, but not under the glass.
Once you have a flat surface, do a three point manual leveling with the screws.
I would need to get my bed milled by a metal work shop, I don't have access to a milling machine. That's how bad mine is.
Not sure how reliable the sensor would be with a piece of glass that thick.
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Re: Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread June 15, 2015 02:01PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 24 |
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Re: Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread June 15, 2015 04:10PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 20 |
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Ukemaxxer
Not sure how reliable the sensor would be with a piece of glass that thick.
Glass does not have any electromagnetic properties. However if you put 5mm of glass on top with a sensor that takes readings at 4mm you may have problems. I would also assume printing on a flat surface (glass), but measure a warped one (aluminum bed), could be problematic as well. I have not tried the autobed leveling yet. I figured once I get my machined turned/level I should not have to adjust things. I am wanting to give it a try though. I plan to glue a sheet of aluminum foil to a sheet of glass and see how well that works.
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Re: Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread June 15, 2015 04:13PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 24 |
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tkin
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Ukemaxxer
Not sure how reliable the sensor would be with a piece of glass that thick.
Glass does not have any electromagnetic properties. However if you put 5mm of glass on top with a sensor that takes readings at 4mm you may have problems. I would also assume printing on a flat surface (glass), but measure a warped one (aluminum bed), could be problematic as well. I have not tried the autobed leveling yet. I figured once I get my machined turned/level I should not have to adjust things. I am wanting to give it a try though. I plan to glue a sheet of aluminum foil to a sheet of glass and see how well that works.
I doubt that will work. You're still going to be detecting the aluminum under the glass. Its still under the glass. Now if you have glass just print a mechanical endstop mount and then never look back. which ever way you want to do it is fine though. I have both a mechanical end stop mount i printed and the sensor. i use the mechanical for glass.
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Re: Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread June 15, 2015 04:24PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 20 |
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tkin
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Ukemaxxer
Not sure how reliable the sensor would be with a piece of glass that thick.
Glass does not have any electromagnetic properties. However if you put 5mm of glass on top with a sensor that takes readings at 4mm you may have problems. I would also assume printing on a flat surface (glass), but measure a warped one (aluminum bed), could be problematic as well. I have not tried the autobed leveling yet. I figured once I get my machined turned/level I should not have to adjust things. I am wanting to give it a try though. I plan to glue a sheet of aluminum foil to a sheet of glass and see how well that works.
I've seen mention of people with glass beds doing that with an auto leveler; putting squares of aluminum foil on each corner of the glass for the inductive sensor to pick up
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/15/2015 04:25PM by CAlleman.
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Re: Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread June 15, 2015 07:25PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 24 |
Hey i don't think many people have seen this [www.thingiverse.com] There are already a bunch of very useful custom parts.
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Re: Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread June 16, 2015 02:17AM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 18 |
i built it yakuza and it had a problem. the main body wouldn't let the probe lift high enough to do a calibration. so, i remixed it. i plan on uploading it to thingverse soon. it works quite well actually, much easier than doing a test...re-adjusting the probe..test..move the probe, etc. with this, you just turn the adjuster..test, turn the adjuster 1/4 or 1/2 turn and test again..i calibrated my printer much faster with this mod.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/16/2015 02:21AM by rejaak.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/16/2015 02:21AM by rejaak.
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Re: Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread June 16, 2015 03:16AM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 6 |
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Re: Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread June 16, 2015 08:15AM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 20 |
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keitarocos
Another bad solder joint on one of the end-stop switches. This is just ridiculous, and this time both contacts came off. It's not that hard to create a solder joint, I am very annoyed, I just was to get this done but everything keeps popping out of nowhere to stop me.
Since the end stop on the Y-axis is moving back and forth, over the frame, it will keep breaking....unless you zip tie it to the Y-belt holder.
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Re: Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread June 16, 2015 02:39PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 18 |
Just thought i'd share some photos of my evolving build and the mods i've implemented. feel free to criticize my efforts.My migbot fotos
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/16/2015 02:40PM by rejaak.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/16/2015 02:40PM by rejaak.
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Re: Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread June 16, 2015 04:38PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 20 |
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Re: Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread June 17, 2015 01:39AM |
Registered: 10 years ago Posts: 444 |
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Re: Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread June 17, 2015 09:21AM |
Registered: 16 years ago Posts: 824 |
When adding a glass plate, you should avoid placing anything between the bed and the glass. The reason being that the material will swell and change the height of the bed, and cause uneven layers. Applying silicone adhesive to the outside edges keeps the glass in contact with the bed , and is easy to remove later in case of a break.
One word of caution: it is possible to delaminate the glass when removing parts, which can be a hazard when handlung parts. Always inspect the bed surface after part removal for missing glass. I can be difficult to spot, so look carefully.
One word of caution: it is possible to delaminate the glass when removing parts, which can be a hazard when handlung parts. Always inspect the bed surface after part removal for missing glass. I can be difficult to spot, so look carefully.
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Re: Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread June 18, 2015 05:08PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 111 |
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Re: Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread June 18, 2015 06:24PM |
Registered: 16 years ago Posts: 824 |
The shiny silver coating has a low emmissivity, so it will not radiate efficiently into the glass. The loss may actually be minute.
Any shiny material will radiate less than if it were matte.
[www.thermalvision.ie]
Any shiny material will radiate less than if it were matte.
[www.thermalvision.ie]
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Re: Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread June 18, 2015 09:50PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 111 |
My printer is due to come in tommorrow (after nearly a month and a bunch of lies). Anyway, I have read mixed reviews on the power supply that comes with this thing. Would it be better/safer to use the PSU that comes with it or an old ATX computer power supply (the one I am planning is rated at 19A on the 12v rail)?
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Re: Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread June 18, 2015 11:45PM |
Registered: 16 years ago Posts: 824 |
Get one like these[m.aliexpress.com]
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Re: Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread June 19, 2015 03:35AM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 21 |
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Re: Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread June 19, 2015 04:18PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 80 |
Update to my Migbot. Frogtape works great instead of blue tape. Smoother surface, easier to put on and sticks better. I couldn't figure out why sometimes the layer is ok at on end but starts separating on the other.
Since the acme screws were already installed on the Z stepper motors I assumed they were aligned . My mistake. I notice the Z stepper motors moving as the X axis moved across on the same layer. Adjusted the acme
screw on on side to bring the Z axis in alignment. Now everything runs smoothly. At least I know auto bed leveling works.
Since the acme screws were already installed on the Z stepper motors I assumed they were aligned . My mistake. I notice the Z stepper motors moving as the X axis moved across on the same layer. Adjusted the acme
screw on on side to bring the Z axis in alignment. Now everything runs smoothly. At least I know auto bed leveling works.
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Re: Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread June 19, 2015 08:48PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 111 |
Finally got my printer in today. Was looking over things and noticed the wiring is odd for the steppers. There are 4 pin connectors and 6 pin connectors. The 4 pins are wired black green blue red. However the 6 pins are wired red green blue black. Which is correct? How can I fix it? Thanx.
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Re: Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread June 19, 2015 09:21PM |
Registered: 16 years ago Posts: 824 |
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veaceonee
Finally got my printer in today. Was looking over things and noticed the wiring is odd for the steppers. There are 4 pin connectors and 6 pin connectors. The 4 pins are wired black green blue red. However the 6 pins are wired red green blue black. Which is correct? How can I fix it? Thanx.
I'd be interested in seeing pictures. THis kind of thing is good to document.
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Re: Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread June 20, 2015 05:40PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 14 |
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rejaak
Just thought i'd share some photos of my evolving build and the mods i've implemented. feel free to criticize my efforts.My migbot fotos
Dude! Those mods are fantastic! I was looking at my belts thinking i'm gonna have to keep adjusting those when they wear. An the cabling from the heat bed, that deffo needed altering.
Are all those mods on thingiverse or some are custom?
In the Month i've done some pretty sweet prints with my Migbot 2nd succesfull Benchy boat, sweet one sleeve raspberry pi case, spool stands. Overall i'm very happy with the the migbot for the price i paid!
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Re: Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread June 20, 2015 07:44PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 33 |
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Re: Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread June 21, 2015 01:50AM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 111 |
Im pulling my hair out. Got the printer built, and tested everything and it all works (amazingly). I plug it into the computer, and it will not recognize it no matter what I do. Does it not work on Win 8.1? How can I get it to work through the computer?
Also, the auto level green sensory thing is lower than the print nozzle. Is there something wrong or did I not assemble the extruder assembly correctly. - fixed that, adjusted nozzle length.
Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 06/21/2015 03:01AM by veaceonee.
Also, the auto level green sensory thing is lower than the print nozzle. Is there something wrong or did I not assemble the extruder assembly correctly. - fixed that, adjusted nozzle length.
Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 06/21/2015 03:01AM by veaceonee.
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Re: Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread June 21, 2015 03:03AM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 18 |
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Re: Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread June 21, 2015 03:21AM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 24 |
I have printed some of he upgrades for the Migbot you posted pictures of. Just seems some of the models need to be fixed, the Y belt tensioner isn't a single part easy fix though. but the Sn-04 sensor adjuster doesn't seem to work for me at all. If you could post the Masters that would be awesome.
I made a conversion to Bowden while still retaining the stock extruder hardware.
I made a conversion to Bowden while still retaining the stock extruder hardware.
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Re: Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread June 21, 2015 03:24AM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 19 |
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veaceonee
Finally got my printer in today. Was looking over things and noticed the wiring is odd for the steppers. There are 4 pin connectors and 6 pin connectors. The 4 pins are wired black green blue red. However the 6 pins are wired red green blue black. Which is correct? How can I fix it? Thanx.
Hi,
There is some useful information on stepper wiring on the wiki: [reprap.org]
According to the information on the wiki, the wire order is not critical as long as they are correctly "paired". I checked my motors with a multimeter and found that the paired pins were 1/4 and 3/6 (counting from either side of the connector). My wire colours at the motor are black/green/white/red (with black=pin 1; pins 2 and 5 not connected), and at the board end: black/white/green/red.
I haven't printed anything yet, but in my tests the motors seem to be functioning correctly.
HTH,
Michael
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Re: Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread June 21, 2015 03:26AM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 24 |
Here are those fixed parts as well [drive.google.com]
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Re: Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread June 21, 2015 03:30AM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 19 |
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MigMic
Hope this helps a bit and good luck! (I'll let you know whether my own advice helps me at all)
After a bit of nagging I eventually got the replacement parts I needed. Still a few hiccups but thankfully no show-stoppers. Hoping to have the time this week to complete the build and start printing.
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Re: Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread June 21, 2015 03:44AM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 19 |
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veaceonee
My printer is due to come in tommorrow (after nearly a month and a bunch of lies). Anyway, I have read mixed reviews on the power supply that comes with this thing. Would it be better/safer to use the PSU that comes with it or an old ATX computer power supply (the one I am planning is rated at 19A on the 12v rail)?
Hi,
Suggest you try the PSU you get with the Migbot as you may get lucky. I wasn't (when I turned it on it tripped the circuit breaker in the house) so I decided to go for a new ATX PSU which I reckon is safer (no 240V exposed terminals, reliable protection) and better (higher power rating, more versatile). I'm making up a junction box which allows me to use it as a generic bench power supply, with banana plug sockets, a voltmeter/ammeter display, access to the different voltages (12/5/3.3) and additional switches/fuses.
From what I've read here, the 19A supply you're planning to use will be under-rated.
Cheers,
M.
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