Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread

By the way the speed I use is 50, incase u need. Happy printing

Just save yourself the trouble, anget plastic from a reputable source. The diameter of the plastic filament, the moisture content, and the print temperature all can cause problems like this.

Check a length ofthe filament for roundness and consistency using a caliper. Two measurements at each point to check roundness, everyfew inches over a couple of feet. If it varies by more than +/-0.1, then it might explain you issue.

The filament which I receive different up to 0.4 which me some area 2.1 instead of 1.75

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evetanlm
If you are using the filament which send by Leo, then I would like to tell you, i use at the temperature as follow:

Nozzle 235
Bed: 80
Layer Height i always use 0.05 to 0.1 I don't use higher then that.

as for the shell thickness 1.2
top/bottom fill: 1
I'm using Cura.

Woah what? 235 for PLA? I just used the stuff from the kit last night on a couple calibration cubes. 180 on painters tape, no heat on the bed worked just fine. I was using a larger layer height, but still.

Settings (Cura):
Extruder: 180
Heatbed: 0 setting but it was at 26 (room temp, painters tape)
Layer Height: .3
Shell Thickness: 1.2
Bottom/Top: 1

I never use any tape just glass plate and no curl. Brim only at 10. I don't know whether the current one have any improve as I receive is around 3 months back. It's totally a disappointment, I waited for Leo send part till now didn't receive contact Steven he only say find Leo, which look like table tennis. Anyway I posted is my own preferences and I been using filament from china which I always set at this temperature as my printer room side the temperature is around 41-44 degree so if I put lower temperature it just wouldn't stick.

By the way my is degree Celsius.

I think jcabrer is right, something wrong with the filament if its that far off. I just measured mine, it was surprisingly consistent at 1.70mm. Not 1.75, but it it was well below +/-.1. My calipers could be off why its showing 1.70 but that doesn't effect the consistency.

I have actually had this for about 3 months too, just now putting it together. Perhaps a bad batch or it wasn't stored properly. If you are in a humid environment and it wasn't sealed properly it will absorb moisture and fatten up.

My filament is 1.67-1.69. Did the PID autotune, and turned down the stepper pot Voltages and it is getting much better.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/24/2015 07:21PM by veaceonee.

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veaceonee
My filament is 1.67-1.69. Did the PID autotune, and turned down the stepper pot Voltages and it is getting much better.

What parameters did you use for PID autotune.
I used M303 E0 S200 C8, but every time it fails with temperature too high

M301 P22.20 I1.08 D114.00 This is what is echoed from the printer when I connect in Pronterface.

Also did you just adjust the stepper pots by eye, or did you measure the voltages. If you measured, where and what voltages did you set.
My filament which is what was supplied , is measuring pretty much 1.8 consistently with my vernier

My printer and prints are improving, but still a way to go I think.

Cheers

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veaceonee
My filament is 1.67-1.69. Did the PID autotune, and turned down the stepper pot Voltages and it is getting much better.

Moisture, non uniform filamanet size, and your extruder not calibrated can cause a little of this...but when it is this bad, and gets worse with speed and height, then you probably have some wobble in the machine.

First I would check the structural bolts and make sure they are tight.
Check the belts are not loose (You don't want them bouncing up and down...but also don't want them under a lot of tension because they will wearing out the motors)
Check the smooth rods are not sliding.
Check the z coupler(z motor to thread rod), which is a coil spring and can make things wobble.

Trying printing again and see if the movement is along x or y axis (if so check effected belts, mounts, and bearings)
Check you print head and see how much it swings side to side.
Check bearings (if they are too loose things shake, too tight/worn and they grab)

More detailed information here....
[www.deltarap.org]

Basically what I have found is the Migbot is not going to be perfect (especially at speeds), but you can make adjustments to get things printing decent.

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 06/26/2015 10:40AM by tkin.

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Ukemaxxer

Quote
veaceonee
My filament is 1.67-1.69. Did the PID autotune, and turned down the stepper pot Voltages and it is getting much better.

What parameters did you use for PID autotune.
I used M303 E0 S200 C8, but every time it fails with temperature too high

M301 P22.20 I1.08 D114.00 This is what is echoed from the printer when I connect in Pronterface.

Also did you just adjust the stepper pots by eye, or did you measure the voltages. If you measured, where and what voltages did you set.
My filament which is what was supplied , is measuring pretty much 1.8 consistently with my vernier

My printer and prints are improving, but still a way to go I think.

Cheers

I adjusted the pots with a meter. IIRC Z Axis is 1.3V X&Y are 0.5V. I have found that X & Y pots have to be the same otherwise you will get stairs instead of a cube. Did the PID autotune using that command (but I think it was E1, don't quote me on that), found the numbers to be WAY off, the bed (E-1) was even worse. With every tweak things are getting a little better. I know I will never get "professional" results, but I would like to get as close as possible. Oh ya, one of the other things I did, was shim the Z axis rod grabber thingy (technical term) so it aligns almost straight on with the flexible coupling.

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veaceonee

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Ukemaxxer

Quote
veaceonee
My filament is 1.67-1.69. Did the PID autotune, and turned down the stepper pot Voltages and it is getting much better.

What parameters did you use for PID autotune.
I used M303 E0 S200 C8, but every time it fails with temperature too high

M301 P22.20 I1.08 D114.00 This is what is echoed from the printer when I connect in Pronterface.

Also did you just adjust the stepper pots by eye, or did you measure the voltages. If you measured, where and what voltages did you set.
My filament which is what was supplied , is measuring pretty much 1.8 consistently with my vernier

My printer and prints are improving, but still a way to go I think.

Cheers

I adjusted the pots with a meter. IIRC Z Axis is 1.3V X&Y are 0.5V. I have found that X & Y pots have to be the same otherwise you will get stairs instead of a cube. Did the PID autotune using that command (but I think it was E1, don't quote me on that), found the numbers to be WAY off, the bed (E-1) was even worse. With every tweak things are getting a little better. I know I will never get "professional" results, but I would like to get as close as possible. Oh ya, one of the other things I did, was shim the Z axis rod grabber thingy (technical term) so it aligns almost straight on with the flexible coupling.

20150626_134403.jpg

Is there a test point on the board, or did you measure the voltage on one of the motor wires.

I changed my values trial and error in config-h and got it to PID, then used those returned values. So that's that bit sorted.
Did a test cube, 25mm and the cube upper was ok, but had corners lifted. This was printed using 180C extruder and 70C bed




Printed same file again but this time with bed at 50C, picture speaks for itself. Layer height was set to .1 Cube dimentions spot on

If you look at the trim pots you will see 3 contacts (2 on the bottom, one on top). Positive lead to single contact - negative lead to usb connector housing.

I am printing at 210C, 40 on the bed with blue tape on a raft.

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veaceonee
If you look at the trim pots you will see 3 contacts (2 on the bottom, one on top). Positive lead to single contact - negative lead to usb connector housing.

I am printing at 210C, 40 on the bed with blue tape on a raft.

Cheers. I'll have a look at mine tomorow

Whenever I first turn power on I get this message on the LCD. What is happening and how can I fix it? Do a reset and it is fine.

just wondering if someone could help me out with the cura settings for my migbot? I am getting issues with it not centring the print on the bed and I am at a loss what to do. please pictures and or instructions are much appreciated. I am just having issues with larger prints not sitting on the bed correctly, Also is there a way to get the printer to auto feed a little quicker so there is filament in the head as it starts the print? I just reflashed Marlin and put my auto level prox-sensor and tend to get a little bit of dribble but no print for the first 3rd of the first layer.

Thanks again

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/28/2015 03:33AM by rumjar86.

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Ukemaxxer

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veaceonee

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Ukemaxxer

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veaceonee
My filament is 1.67-1.69. Did the PID autotune, and turned down the stepper pot Voltages and it is getting much better.

What parameters did you use for PID autotune.
I used M303 E0 S200 C8, but every time it fails with temperature too high

M301 P22.20 I1.08 D114.00 This is what is echoed from the printer when I connect in Pronterface.

Also did you just adjust the stepper pots by eye, or did you measure the voltages. If you measured, where and what voltages did you set.
My filament which is what was supplied , is measuring pretty much 1.8 consistently with my vernier

My printer and prints are improving, but still a way to go I think.

Cheers

I adjusted the pots with a meter. IIRC Z Axis is 1.3V X&Y are 0.5V. I have found that X & Y pots have to be the same otherwise you will get stairs instead of a cube. Did the PID autotune using that command (but I think it was E1, don't quote me on that), found the numbers to be WAY off, the bed (E-1) was even worse. With every tweak things are getting a little better. I know I will never get "professional" results, but I would like to get as close as possible. Oh ya, one of the other things I did, was shim the Z axis rod grabber thingy (technical term) so it aligns almost straight on with the flexible coupling.

20150626_134403.jpg

Is there a test point on the board, or did you measure the voltage on one of the motor wires.

I changed my values trial and error in config-h and got it to PID, then used those returned values. So that's that bit sorted.
Did a test cube, 25mm and the cube upper was ok, but had corners lifted. This was printed using 180C extruder and 70C bed

s1056.photobucket.com

s1056.photobucket.com

Printed same file again but this time with bed at 50C, picture speaks for itself. Layer height was set to .1 Cube dimentions spot on

s1056.photobucket.com

I'd change the temp if printing with PLA to about 185-186 and print bed around the 65-70 mark and see how that turns out. Also what kind of adhesion method are you using?

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rumjar86

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Ukemaxxer

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veaceonee

Quote
Ukemaxxer

Quote
veaceonee
My filament is 1.67-1.69. Did the PID autotune, and turned down the stepper pot Voltages and it is getting much better.

What parameters did you use for PID autotune.
I used M303 E0 S200 C8, but every time it fails with temperature too high

M301 P22.20 I1.08 D114.00 This is what is echoed from the printer when I connect in Pronterface.

Also did you just adjust the stepper pots by eye, or did you measure the voltages. If you measured, where and what voltages did you set.
My filament which is what was supplied , is measuring pretty much 1.8 consistently with my vernier

My printer and prints are improving, but still a way to go I think.

Cheers

I adjusted the pots with a meter. IIRC Z Axis is 1.3V X&Y are 0.5V. I have found that X & Y pots have to be the same otherwise you will get stairs instead of a cube. Did the PID autotune using that command (but I think it was E1, don't quote me on that), found the numbers to be WAY off, the bed (E-1) was even worse. With every tweak things are getting a little better. I know I will never get "professional" results, but I would like to get as close as possible. Oh ya, one of the other things I did, was shim the Z axis rod grabber thingy (technical term) so it aligns almost straight on with the flexible coupling.

20150626_134403.jpg

Is there a test point on the board, or did you measure the voltage on one of the motor wires.

I changed my values trial and error in config-h and got it to PID, then used those returned values. So that's that bit sorted.
Did a test cube, 25mm and the cube upper was ok, but had corners lifted. This was printed using 180C extruder and 70C bed

s1056.photobucket.com

s1056.photobucket.com

Printed same file again but this time with bed at 50C, picture speaks for itself. Layer height was set to .1 Cube dimentions spot on

s1056.photobucket.com

I'd change the temp if printing with PLA to about 185-186 and print bed around the 65-70 mark and see how that turns out. Also what kind of adhesion method are you using?

I'm using UHU glue stick on the bed, standard aluminium as supplied, part was printed with brim option in Cura, 10 lines
Pretty much got it sorted out now.
Yesterday, I printed a file, came out real good, but after that, I couldn't get a single print to even complete the brim correctly.
Traced the problem to the cheap as shit grub screw supplied for the extruder gear. Couldn't tighten it up at all.
Replaced it with a quality one from my old RC car spares box, printing perfect now.

I think a lot of the issues I've had have been down to poor quality stuff supplied with this kit. But then, that's half the reason I bought it.
I could have paid twice as much for a brand name kit, but you learn from solving problems.
I'm a printer engineer by trade anyway, so enjoy messing with stuff and fixing faults.

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rumjar86
just wondering if someone could help me out with the cura settings for my migbot? I am getting issues with it not centring the print on the bed and I am at a loss what to do. please pictures and or instructions are much appreciated. I am just having issues with larger prints not sitting on the bed correctly, Also is there a way to get the printer to auto feed a little quicker so there is filament in the head as it starts the print?

The centering can be fixed in g-code.

You want a larger skirt to fix your starting issue. Go into expert settings (Expert | Open Expert Settings...) under skirt, set line count to 1, and increase the minimal length setting. 200 works well for me, but you may need a little more. You may also want to increase the start distance. I prefer mine at 6mm so there's less chance of dragging excess material into the first layer.

Here is my Start code for simplify 3D
You can add G29 to the space below the G28 Z0

M117 Move X/Y to Min Endstops... ;Put printing message on LCD screen
G28 ;move X/Y to min endstops
;M117 Move Z to Min Endstops... ;Put printing message on LCD screen
G28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops


;M117 Priming Filament... ;Put printing message on LCD screen
G1 E15 F200 ;extrude 15mm of feed stock

M117 Working.. ;Put printing message on LCD screen

cheers guys for the advice. I have to wait about 30 hours till one print finishes then I will give that a go. is the start code still the same for cura etc?

Thanks Invictus I use your X Y and it got me close, I ended up going G92 X-16 Y135 and that got be dead nutz center.

yeah its just the start g-code it will work fine

For the Window 8.1 problem, I've heard that you have to look at the driver signatures.

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veaceonee
Whenever I first turn power on I get this message on the LCD. What is happening and how can I fix it? Do a reset and it is fine.

20150626_181458.jpg

Check that your Thermistors are fully plugged into the motherboard and that they are securely fastened to the extruder head and hotbed.

I had an issue with my extruder Thermistor throwing a MAXTEMP because it was a little loose and moving around; once I tightened the screw that holds it in place I haven't had the issue since

Hello everyone,

I'm brand new to 3D printing and only a few hours ago finished my Migbot ultra kit with extended print area and auto levelling and I'm looking for someone who knows what they're doing to help me.
I finished building the printer last night and when I turned it on for the first time the lights on the MKS base 1.3 board lit up and the fan turned on as well as the LCD screen, but I fear that I am missing some knowledge or there is a problem with the printer.
I opened up cura 15.04 (with Marlin firmware), loaded up a test cube and couldn't for the life of me figure out how to actually print the damn thing. While I was searching through the toolbars I found the run levelling bed wizard and in the pop up there's an option to connect to printer, I tried to and it threw up a "failed to establish connection with the printer" error. Also when the USB cable is plugged in there isn't any recognition on my pc of the printer.

Does anyone know how to get my pc to recognise the printer? I've googled and googled but nothing seems to be explaining it in a way I can understand.

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crixias
Hello everyone,

I'm brand new to 3D printing and only a few hours ago finished my Migbot ultra kit with extended print area and auto levelling and I'm looking for someone who knows what they're doing to help me.
I finished building the printer last night and when I turned it on for the first time the lights on the MKS base 1.3 board lit up and the fan turned on as well as the LCD screen, but I fear that I am missing some knowledge or there is a problem with the printer.
I opened up cura 15.04 (with Marlin firmware), loaded up a test cube and couldn't for the life of me figure out how to actually print the damn thing. While I was searching through the toolbars I found the run levelling bed wizard and in the pop up there's an option to connect to printer, I tried to and it threw up a "failed to establish connection with the printer" error. Also when the USB cable is plugged in there isn't any recognition on my pc of the printer.

Does anyone know how to get my pc to recognize the printer? I've googled and googled but nothing seems to be explaining it in a way I can understand.

1. You can export your gcode and run it directly from the sd card is one way
2. As for the USB, no recognition? When you plug it in on the board does a blue light start blinking? If you go into the windows device manager is there atleast a warning on a non-recognized device?
-If there is you would want to install the driver, by installing it yourself by pointing to the ftdi driver they sent along with the build instructions.

Hey Invictus, I just tried the
gcode for cura
but now the Y axis just sits there trying to go back past the end stop (clunck, clunck ) noise of the belt slipping on the pully. I posted the code I have on my end, please any help man would be greatly appreciated. I just can't get anything to work atm.



;Sliced at: {day} {date} {time}
;Basic settings: Layer height: {layer_height} Walls: {wall_thickness} Fill: {fill_density}
;Print time: {print_time}
;Filament used: {filament_amount}m {filament_weight}g
;Filament cost: {filament_cost}
;M190 S{print_bed_temperature} ;Uncomment to add your own bed temperature line
;M109 S{print_temperature} ;Uncomment to add your own temperature line
G21 ;metric values
G90 ;absolute positioning
M82 ;set extruder to absolute mode
M107 ;start with the fan off

G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops
G28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops
G92 X-16 Y130 ;adjust position so 100,100 is center of bed

G1 Z15.0 F{travel_speed} ;move the platform down 15mm

G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length
G1 F200 E3 ;extrude 3mm of feed stock
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again
G1 F{travel_speed}
;Put printing message on LCD screen
M117 Printing...







oh and while I'm at it, the LCD says
X -5 Y -55 Z 0.8

I have just flashed marlin with the auto levelling feature cause I put an after market Prox-sensor

hope this extra info helps

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/01/2015 02:33AM by rumjar86.

I'm assuming you want to use the auto-leveling feature. If so, replace "G28 Z0" with "G29". This will probe the bed on all four corners and leave the extruder in the upper left corner of the bed, which is approx. -15,130 with stock firmware settings. If you're still having problems, remove the G92 that you added. It will print fine, just off center. I printed that way for a couple weeks until I got the bigger issues resolved.

Search this thread post a few pages back, and download the updated firmware. That will help ALOT. Set up the settings in Cura as stated in the instructions.

This thread is pretty much the only source of good info on these printers. My recommendation is to start at page 1 and go through the entire thing.

There are a lot of good dudes here that are really helpful.

what version Windows you running?