Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread

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gatorNic

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jbehan
Anyone have their acrylic Y axis carriage warp from heat while printing ABS? I did tonight, son-of-a...just found the sweet spot too. Thoughts on a replacement?

I haven't started printing with ABS yet. Was just about to. Was it a long print?

Think I remember somebody on this thread buying this one:
Amazon

but if you don't need the bearings, etc I think this one might work and its US:
Ebay

4 hour long print, second one of the day. I did have three sides of my printer table blocked with foam to stop cold drafts, it's in my basement. Maybe that caused the heat build-up, although nothing else warped. Might have to try some aluminium milling on my OX CNC and replace the acrylic.

It also might matter how tight you have the the levelers tightened down. If it leveled while they are tighter, the bed would be much closer to the acrylic. I have mine about as loose as I can go and the acrylic is about 15mm from the heat bed. However I haven't done alot of abs printing. So too early to tell.

I was wondering if someone can print me an extruder frame (the plastic part that attaches to the extruder stepper). Mine is broke, so it drags on the feed gear rendering the machine useless. Shapeways won't be able to get one out to me until at least the 21st.
PM me if you can help me out..

Ukemaxxer,

Thank you for the reply however, when I clicked on the Google link, I got the following:
403. That’s an error.

Your client does not have permission to get URL /wcLW5SX_4um61qfkSaF9jDT5Re88UVzq_lvIU83WuIxPRJe5Bv0OheqHwIKOLWc1Zmdaog=s190 from this server. (Client IP address: NOT ATTACHED IN THIS MSG)

Forbidden That’s all we know.

printrguruh

UkeMaxxer,

went back to page 6 ref link and that link was valid. will examine shots ant let you know. I sincerely appreciate the detailed help.
printrguruh
THANKS!

have anyone try to use PTFE Baking Liner or Silicone Baking Mat on heatbed while printing? PLA/ABS

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evetanlm
have anyone try to use PTFE Baking Liner or Silicone Baking Mat on heatbed while printing? PLA/ABS

DOH!...good call evetanlm, I know just where to get one. My wife is going to be pissed!

After try can let me know whether it's work? Planning to get one but have to wait two week for shipment. Whether can print abs, thinking which one to choose. Either silicon baking mat or PTFE baking linear.

Every time I try to connect my computer to the printer it keeps saying "NON GENUINE DEVICE DETECTED". It will not connect to the printer. How do i fix this? Stupid Windows 10..

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veaceonee
Every time I try to connect my computer to the printer it keeps saying "NON GENUINE DEVICE DETECTED". It will not connect to the printer. How do i fix this? Stupid Windows 10..

And this is with doing a "have disk" manually loading drivers? Usually the Genuine stuff just has to do with the drivers not being signed, but you can force drivers with have disk.

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gatorNic

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veaceonee
Every time I try to connect my computer to the printer it keeps saying "NON GENUINE DEVICE DETECTED". It will not connect to the printer. How do i fix this? Stupid Windows 10..

And this is with doing a "have disk" manually loading drivers? Usually the Genuine stuff just has to do with the drivers not being signed, but you can force drivers with have disk.

With Windows 10 (and 8.1) you have to disable driver signature verification to install unsigned drivers - this shoud let you proceed hopefully:

[www.howtogeek.com]

I havent seen a device signage error. It lets me do the Have Disk option, but it still has the same thing

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/11/2015 04:14PM by veaceonee.

anyone can help, urgent, if the printer while printing keep lift up itself what can i do to prevent it lift up?

evetanlm,
What material are you printing with? Is it PLA or ABS? Which "slicer" are you using? Most of the time, the lifting of a print is because you;

1. Don't have the print bed properly "Leveled". In this case, you have to check using a piece of regular bond paper on all four corners and in the center. The paper must scrape the print head very lightly. Don't assume that because you did it once on each corner, you are done. Check multiple times on each corner and location. As you loosen or tighten one screw, other corners adjust too. So be VERY PATIENT.... and TAKE YOUR TIME. This is the single most important part of 3D Printing.

2. You don't have the proper surface to print on. If you use a metal or glass print plate,
a.. A light coat of simple Glue Stick spread evenly everywhere you expect the print to be. Elmer's Purple Glue is my favorite, because I can see where I spread it.
b. Many people swear by using some brands of masking tape or blue painters' tape.

3. You are using the wrong temperature for the material you are trying to print. Each manufacturer's product is different, so you have to play with these settings.The temperature for PLA can vary from 195c to 210c. And for ABS it can be between 220c and 240c. Again, test at a few different temps.

4. You are printing the first layer too fast.

5. You are not "squishing" the first layer. Most slicers allow you to adjust the first layer speed and percent thickness. A good guideline is to print the first layer at 50% speed and 80% thickness.

Good luck,
3DST

veaceonee, has anyone been able to print this extruder frame part for you? If not, I can get one done for you.

I have adjust the bed properly but the issue is while printing the extruder will lift up itself, never happen before, i was printing with ABS, on the glass with kapton tape, as the slicer, i try cura and repetier both also the same, my printing temperature is e: 230, b: 100, the extruder when home is ok but while print it lift up

there is one things i notice the bearing in the extruder not moving. is there anythings that can help

Just find out the problem, hehe, the filament was outside the bearing, as attach picture, for knowledge purpose

The alignment of the brass nut for the Z threaded rods does seem very important. I have a similar one in my steel i3, and if slightly tilted, the brass nut will really bind that Z threaded rod, so much so that you can't turn it by hand.

As for warping acrylic frames, at least I can avoid that problem, with the steel frame.

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3DST
veaceonee, has anyone been able to print this extruder frame part for you? If not, I can get one done for you.

Ya, I managed to "modify" the old extruder frame so I can get 1 print out of it. Luckily, I was able to get the new frame printed in that 1 print. Thanx for the offer though.

Weird thing is occuring however. Whenever I print there are these lumps in the prints which the print head rams into and skips around. Sometimes the lump squishes out the side, sometimes it is in the center. Why would it do this? Could it be something with printing off the SD?

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RRuser
The alignment of the brass nut for the Z threaded rods does seem very important. I have a similar one in my steel i3, and if slightly tilted, the brass nut will really bind that Z threaded rod, so much so that you can't turn it by hand.

As for warping acrylic frames, at least I can avoid that problem, with the steel frame.

When I was building my machine, I spent a lot of time shimming out the brass nut so I can just let the rod fall through the nut and it will wind itself into the coupler. Out of the box it was way off.

veaceonee , We've seen this with two scenarios, assuming that you have Leveled properly; 1. The print bed is warped and/or 2. The Z-Gap is too high. It helps a lot if you submit pictures. Just FYI, printing form the SD is way more accurate than via USB. Sometimes, the USB connection can have even minor delays that can throw the printer way off track.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/14/2015 11:42AM by 3DST.

I only print off the SD due to shorting out the board the first time I was nervous to have the 12v and the usb plugged in at the same time again haha.

I would not be surprised if the aluminum print bed was warped. Mine was for sure. Its been a big difference with a glass plate installed instead. Although I can't attribute that blobbing problem to a warped bed.

gatorNic, I mentioned the warped bed because anytime the head gets too far off the bed, the filament can pour our and sometimes "curls" up and attaches to the print head. Little by little the blob gets bigger.

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3DST
gatorNic, I mentioned the warped bed because anytime the head gets too far off the bed, the filament can pour our and sometimes "curls" up and attaches to the print head. Little by little the blob gets bigger.

Yeah sorry I didn't mean it wasn't the problem, just that I don't know. Certainly some big blobs.

What glass do you recommend I get to replace the aluminum plate? Does the glass replace, or add on to the aluminum plate? Iv heard the Z sensor doesn't like glass plates, is this true? The aluminum plate does not appear warped.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/14/2015 07:28PM by veaceonee.

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veaceonee
What glass do you recommend I get to replace the aluminum plate? Does the glass replace, or add on to the aluminum plate? Iv heard the Z sensor doesn't like glass plates, is this true? The aluminum plate does not appear warped.

I mean if you are getting even applications of your first layer with what you have then you probably could just stick with it. I got it because even with using 16point autolevel, I was still getting uneven first layers depending on where it was printing. Plus I figured it might be better for doing ABS, with a glue stick or hairspray.

Borosilicate glass. Much better with high temps and cracking vs someone using regular glass from the hardware store. Its basically pyrex cookware. It will take longer to heat up though.

I removed the aluminum plate and put the glass on the heat pad directly. I printed some corners for the glass before I switched it out though, which hold it mostly in place but I still ended up put two of the smaller clips on two of the corners anyway. Some people say don't use clamps due to expansion but I haven't had a problem. There are corners all over thingverse.

They have some cheaper ones on Amazon like these:
RioRand Amazon
Greetech Amazon

But I actually went with Matterhackers for a little more, because I saw some reviews say the edges weren't ground on the cheapers ones and I trust MatterHackers more. Plus they are in CA so I knew I would get it fast in San Francisco.
MatterHackers

So I messed with the retract and speed settings a little. Helped with the giant lump it was making in the print...but, now everything else is going hell......frustrating.

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veaceonee
So I messed with the retract and speed settings a little. Helped with the giant lump it was making in the print...but, now everything else is going hell......frustrating.

I think probably do a methodical calibration of your x,y,z and extruder. Make sure they are doing exactly what they are suppose to do. Then starting with the default migbot settings again. Mine was pretty decent right out of the box with their settings, but it was after I methodically went through calibrating right from the start.

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gatorNic

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veaceonee
So I messed with the retract and speed settings a little. Helped with the giant lump it was making in the print...but, now everything else is going hell......frustrating.

I think probably do a methodical calibration of your x,y,z and extruder. Make sure they are doing exactly what they are suppose to do. Then starting with the default migbot settings again. Mine was pretty decent right out of the box with their settings, but it was after I methodically went through calibrating right from the start.

I was afraid of that. Calibration is a total PITA without hooking it into a computer.