Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread

Yes they have to be unzipped

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gwc2795
Yes they have to be unzipped

Installed, no problems! Woot. Only thing I am left scared about getting to work, is this auto level sensor. I didnt get get a Z axis switch, so I am stuck with it

Has anybody gotten their migbot/drivers working for windows 10?

I have the Electron 3D variant of this printer, got it working with windows 10 no problem. Just went into the device manager and manually selected the driver to install for the unknown USB controller from the files that came with the printer. I have had the printer up and running for the past few days and it has been printing very well once I adjusted the settings. I've been using Pronterface and Cura and the firmware that came loaded onto my machine. I did not opt for the auto leveling sensor from the manufacturer. Now, this is where I need everyone's help

I bought the sensor that would have come with the kit, SN04-N, and printed the mount from the design files included with the printer. Does anybody know what connector the end stops use on the MKS Base board and which wire from the sensor goes to which pin. It looks like a JST XH 3 pole style connector. I'd rather not cut the tail off my working Z end stop switch in case I have to revert back to it for any reason, and it's also nice to have an extra end stop around in case one of the others breaks.

So far, really liking this printer. Only thing I changed out of the box was the heatbed setup. I'm using a MK3 board I bought off eBay and a Solid State Relay to power it. Still takes about 20 minutes to get to 110 for ABS but I'm planning on adding some insulation to help. If all else fails I'll use a separate 24V PSU I suppose. This is my first printer and I'm finding it extremely addictive. Thanks for the help!

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GouldShaw
I have the Electron 3D variant of this printer, got it working with windows 10 no problem. Just went into the device manager and manually selected the driver to install for the unknown USB controller from the files that came with the printer. I have had the printer up and running for the past few days and it has been printing very well once I adjusted the settings. I've been using Pronterface and Cura and the firmware that came loaded onto my machine. I did not opt for the auto leveling sensor from the manufacturer. Now, this is where I need everyone's help

I bought the sensor that would have come with the kit, SN04-N, and printed the mount from the design files included with the printer. Does anybody know what connector the end stops use on the MKS Base board and which wire from the sensor goes to which pin. It looks like a JST XH 3 pole style connector. I'd rather not cut the tail off my working Z end stop switch in case I have to revert back to it for any reason, and it's also nice to have an extra end stop around in case one of the others breaks.

So far, really liking this printer. Only thing I changed out of the box was the heatbed setup. I'm using a MK3 board I bought off eBay and a Solid State Relay to power it. Still takes about 20 minutes to get to 110 for ABS but I'm planning on adding some insulation to help. If all else fails I'll use a separate 24V PSU I suppose. This is my first printer and I'm finding it extremely addictive. Thanks for the help!

Basically all I did was grab this from E3D and gently pull the plastic socket off the board and plug that cable in. I tried to hunt the connectors, but gave up a re-jigged it. If you don't have a Soldering Iron, pick up some ferrules from them too. Easy. If you need the colour order for the wires, let me know and I'll post it up.

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GouldShaw
I have the Electron 3D variant of this printer, got it working with windows 10 no problem. Just went into the device manager and manually selected the driver to install for the unknown USB controller from the files that came with the printer. I have had the printer up and running for the past few days and it has been printing very well once I adjusted the settings. I've been using Pronterface and Cura and the firmware that came loaded onto my machine. I did not opt for the auto leveling sensor from the manufacturer. Now, this is where I need everyone's help

I bought the sensor that would have come with the kit, SN04-N, and printed the mount from the design files included with the printer. Does anybody know what connector the end stops use on the MKS Base board and which wire from the sensor goes to which pin. It looks like a JST XH 3 pole style connector. I'd rather not cut the tail off my working Z end stop switch in case I have to revert back to it for any reason, and it's also nice to have an extra end stop around in case one of the others breaks.

So far, really liking this printer. Only thing I changed out of the box was the heatbed setup. I'm using a MK3 board I bought off eBay and a Solid State Relay to power it. Still takes about 20 minutes to get to 110 for ABS but I'm planning on adding some insulation to help. If all else fails I'll use a separate 24V PSU I suppose. This is my first printer and I'm finding it extremely addictive. Thanks for the help!

The plastic shell for the end stops is XHP-3
The correct crimp fittings are MFG P/N SHX-001T-P0.6 for use with 22 - 28 ga wire. The Digikey part # is 455-1135-1-ND they cost like $3.00 per hundred.

So a update! Motors are working, only way to get them to work was homing them (I have the leveling sensor). Here is my concerns

1. Without the Z stopper, how does that Axis home? Did I skip over instructions?
2. Any calibration needed for the sensor?

Also if it helps, I am using Simplyfy3D and preferred to continue using it.

Any help would be awesome!

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/30/2015 11:53AM by Ironsights.

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Ironsights

1. Without the Z stopper, how does that Axis home? Did I skip over instructions?

1.The Z stopper and the leveling sensor do the same thing, it plugs into the same port on the board. So you use either the mechanical end stop OR the auto-leveling sensor.
2. The sensor that came with the kit is pretty basic. There was no calibration with it. If you have an adjustable one, aweome, if you have the 'stationary' one they usually send I highly recommend putting a adjustable bracket on it as soon as possible. It has saved me a ton of time being able to make very fine adjustments to the height of the sensor when I need to get the correct height of the first layer.

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gatorNic

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Ironsights

1. Without the Z stopper, how does that Axis home? Did I skip over instructions?

1.The Z stopper and the leveling sensor do the same thing, it plugs into the same port on the board. So you use either the mechanical end stop OR the auto-leveling sensor.
2. The sensor that came with the kit is pretty basic. There was no calibration with it. If you have an adjustable one, aweome, if you have the 'stationary' one they usually send I highly recommend putting a adjustable bracket on it as soon as possible. It has saved me a ton of time being able to make very fine adjustments to the height of the sensor when I need to get the correct height of the first layer.

Can you show me an example of this adjustable bracket? I have the one that more or less, attaches to the extruder assembly.

Do I need to add any code to simplfy3D? I noticed I am not able to use JOG controls in it.

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Ironsights

Can you show me an example of this adjustable bracket? I have the one that more or less, attaches to the extruder assembly.

Do I need to add any code to simplfy3D? I noticed I am not able to use JOG controls in it.

This one is for the little green block sensor that they ship with it. I cleaned up a version of this bracket so that it worked with a different length of screw, cleaned up some geometry, and some taller slots for more adjustment. I don't have my cleaned up version on me. I can post it later. I also did what he suggested and put a little spring in there. Works great.

The only other code I put in was to center my prints, as they were offcenter. There may have been a better way to do it in the firmware, but it was just easier to put the extra code in.

See attached, that is the screenshot of some code I seem to need to put in the gcode. However I am not sure how to make this work with Simplfy3D.

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Ironsights
See attached, that is the screenshot of some code I seem to need to put in the gcode. However I am not sure how to make this work with Simplfy3D.

yes that is available in simplify3d. just go under the scripts tab. there is a start code section.

Good to know Gator.

With that setting in there, like the screenshot I attached. If I set that, does it home to 0? Just curious how that functions or works. I am currently at work, so cant do a live test but just wanted to get a sense of the behavior I should expect.

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Ironsights
Good to know Gator.

With that setting in there, like the screenshot I attached. If I set that, does it home to 0? Just curious how that functions or works. I am currently at work, so cant do a live test but just wanted to get a sense of the behavior I should expect.

depends on your firmware. I would just try printing something when you are ready. If its offcenter the easiest thing to do is use a G92 code in your startup to shift. I can remember what mine is, might be something like G92 X-16 Y135. obviously firmware can be adjusted but its up to you.

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gatorNic

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Ironsights
Good to know Gator.

With that setting in there, like the screenshot I attached. If I set that, does it home to 0? Just curious how that functions or works. I am currently at work, so cant do a live test but just wanted to get a sense of the behavior I should expect.

depends on your firmware. I would just try printing something when you are ready. If its offcenter the easiest thing to do is use a G92 code in your startup to shift. I can remember what mine is, might be something like G92 X-16 Y135. obviously firmware can be adjusted but its up to you.

Ugh, I am alittle lost in what you said above. Can I trouble you to break it down.

Do I need to install any new firmware? If so, how is it done? (Using what came with it)

So since my Z axis doesnt zero where the stopper would be, how can I exactly center it or set a zero point to be centered?

Sorry for the questions, I just want this thing setup and ready to follow for atleast a test print.

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Ironsights


Ugh, I am alittle lost in what you said above. Can I trouble you to break it down.

Do I need to install any new firmware? If so, how is it done? (Using what came with it)

So since my Z axis doesnt zero where the stopper would be, how can I exactly center it or set a zero point to be centered?

Sorry for the questions, I just want this thing setup and ready to follow for atleast a test print.

All I was saying is just go ahead and try to print something and see what happens with your current firmware. It not going to hurt anything. If it prints offcenter, they the easiest way was to place in the same place as the homing script the G92 code. So my Gcode startup script atleast the first part of it looks like this:

M82 ;set extruder to absolute mode
M107 ;start with the fan off
G28
M117 Auto Calibration... ;Put printing message on LCD screen
G29 ;auto bed level
G92 X-16 Y135 ;adjust centering position

So basically I am adjusting the centering position in mm, -16 in x and 135 in Y. Yours could be different so why I said just go ahead and test print as long as you got your sensor hooked up.

Hey guys, I have got my migbot all set up and printing pretty good at this point, bed centered in firmware, auto-leveling running properly. Just one issue everything is printing mirror image from what it should be, if I print something with text on it it comes out completely backwards. Any ideas what the issue might be? I can say that all my stepper plug wires are in the same order, all plugs on the board are black, green, blue. red. all plugs on the steppers are black, blue, green, red. so I'm kinda lost

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CrackinX
Hey guys, I have got my migbot all set up and printing pretty good at this point, bed centered in firmware, auto-leveling running properly. Just one issue everything is printing mirror image from what it should be, if I print something with text on it it comes out completely backwards. Any ideas what the issue might be? I can say that all my stepper plug wires are in the same order, all plugs on the board are black, green, blue. red. all plugs on the steppers are black, blue, green, red. so I'm kinda lost

here are a few references
[forums.reprap.org]
[forums.reprap.org]
[www.reddit.com]


hope they help

So in Simplyfy3D, I can get the printer to home X Y but not Z (I have the Sensor).

I tried to print, but nothing really happens.

So far that is where I am stuck and frustrated

My printer is connected to COM3 and 25000 Baud rate

ALSO it says my temperature is 357 degrees, however, its not, its not even ON!

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 10/31/2015 12:26PM by Ironsights.

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Ironsights
So in Simplyfy3D, I can get the printer to home X Y but not Z (I have the Sensor).

I tried to print, but nothing really happens.

So far that is where I am stuck and frustrated

My printer is connected to COM3 and 25000 Baud rate

ALSO it says my temperature is 357 degrees, however, its not, its not even ON!

I only print from an SD card. Less issues. Try that. You can also try the lower baud rate of 125000, its usually less issues. But again I go sd card.

As for the temp reading it has been talked about before. Its usually a loose wire, or pinched wire on the thermistor. Check mainly at the extruder head. Adjusting it a bit then turning off the printer does the trick. A lot of times you'll get the MAX TEMP error for the same reason

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/31/2015 02:30PM by gatorNic.

Ok, resolved the thermostat issue.

Is there a way to know if the auto level sensor is working?

Things I have not done.

1) Leveled the bed, provided Migibot software seems to never connect to printer
2)printed anything


I am willing to use the SD card function once its ready to start. I am printing more then just ABS and PLA, hope that wont be a issue.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/31/2015 04:40PM by Ironsights.

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Ironsights
Ok, resolved the thermostat issue.

Is there a way to know if the auto level sensor is working?

Things I have not done.

1) Leveled the bed, provided Migibot software seems to never connect to printer
2)printed anything


I am willing to use the SD card function once its ready to start. I am printing more then just ABS and PLA, hope that wont be a issue.

BE READY TO PULL POWER TO THE MIGBOT IF THE HEAD CRASHES INTO THE BED!!!!!!!

I have attached 3 gcode files that you can use to get started. You load them on an SD card and insert the card in the printer. Press the control button for the LCD display until you see Info Screen on the LCD. Rotate the control knob to get to "Print from SD". Press the control button to select this option. Rotate the control button to access the file you want to print then press the control button to print that file.

Manual_Leveling.gco will zero X, Y and Z axis. After they are Zeroed the stepper motors for X and Y will be released so you can move the bed and the X axis. The Z axis will be locked and you can not move it until you run Turn_Off.gco
Manual_Levelling will heat the bed and then perform a G28 to zero all axis and then release the X & Y axis. Move the nozzle to a corner of the bed and adjust the bed height using the thumb screw until the nozzle tip drags on a sheet of paper. Do this for all 4 corners, Then repeat until all 4 corners barely drag on a sheet of paper. BE PATIENT!!! you might have to do this many times because as you adjust the thumb scew it causes the other corners to change. When the tip of the nozzle barely drags on a sheet of paper at all 4 corners you have manually levelled the bed. Now run the Turn_Off.gco the release the Z axis and turn off the bed heater.

Run Auto_Levelling.gco to zero all axis and perform an automatic bed levelling so you can make sure your offsets are correct. Run Turn_Off.gco the release the X,Y,Z axis and turn off the bed heater.

Hope these help get you started

BE READY TO PULL POWER TO THE MIGBOT IF THE HEAD CRASHES INTO THE BED!!!!!!!

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/01/2015 08:18AM by gwc2795.

having a little issue, when a print is finished it turns heat off to the nozzle but keeps heating the bed. A little worried about this any ideas how to fix it?

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CrackinX
having a little issue, when a print is finished it turns heat off to the nozzle but keeps heating the bed. A little worried about this any ideas how to fix it?

There should be M140 S0 ; Disable heated bed command in the end G-code section of your slicer.

I just upgraded mine to a 24V power supply. I did the PID autotune and that looks all setup right.

Here's my issue. The Z-Probe is permanently reporting triggered. The light is on no matter how far away it is from the bed.
The label on it says it's good for 24V. Any ideas on what might be wrong?

Is there something to adjust on the board or the in the firmware?

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kareem613
I just upgraded mine to a 24V power supply. I did the PID autotune and that looks all setup right.

Here's my issue. The Z-Probe is permanently reporting triggered. The light is on no matter how far away it is from the bed.
The label on it says it's good for 24V. Any ideas on what might be wrong?

Is there something to adjust on the board or the in the firmware?

hold apiece of metal (pliers etc) under the sensor and see if the light goes off. Move the metal object closer/further so the LED goes on/off

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/01/2015 06:42PM by gwc2795.

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gwc2795

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CrackinX
having a little issue, when a print is finished it turns heat off to the nozzle but keeps heating the bed. A little worried about this any ideas how to fix it?

There should be M140 S0 ; Disable heated bed command in the end G-code section of your slicer.

That was exactly the issue, It seems Slic3r doesn't have that by default. It has the M104 for the nozzle but not the M140 for the bed... Odd.

It never changes. Always on. Or do you mean varying in brightness?

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kareem613
It never changes. Always on. Or do you mean varying in brightness?

on some sensors the light is dim when powered and bright when triggered, some are on and off. if the light changes at all then it is probably triggering properly.
If you are using a sensor that is not the one that came with the auto leveling version then you probably need to do some voltage modifying or some such. I personally just used a MOSFET as a switch to trigger the 5V pin to ground, no voltage modifying needed just a 2$ MOSFET from radio shack.

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kareem613
It never changes. Always on. Or do you mean varying in brightness?

Sorry about the bad verbiage, I have edited the post to clarify.
I was trying to get you to determine if the sensor would detect the metal object and the LED light would go on/off. The LED is either on or off.

On mine the Blue wire is connected to the (-) terminal on the MKS board and the brown wire is connected to the (+) terminal on the MKS board. The black wire is the sensor wire. Disconnect the black wire and see if the sensor works.

If the LED does not turn off then the sensor is defective.