Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread

Quote
rowdyjoe
Ax
Yeah, it's been 45 min. and it's just now reacing 105C. Previous high temp was about 85C with a piece of cardboard on top so, this is real progress. I replaced the 16 (?) gauge wire to the bed with 14 gauge copper stranded and insulated the back side of the bed with aprox. 1/8" cork. Wooohoooo ! Just checked and the bed temp is now at 107C. I forgot to cover it with tape so it may do better once I cool it down and apply the masking tape.

What's this about a seperate power supply and relay for the bed? I have a few very good switching PS that came out of servers (12v 1500 watt 46 amp}. What do I need to do to rig it up to the bed? Got a sketch of the hook up?

Garry

You'll need a DC-DC Solid state relay, something along the lines of a SSR-25 DD. Then wire it up like this

Quote
jedhodson

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gwc2795

Quote
jedhodson

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Ax

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jedhodson
Hi all,
I have had the Migbot Prusa i3 for a week now and all had seemed well. I only just found out when printing a size specific part that the z axis has been 1 mm shorter for all my prints. I had loaded the auto bed levelling firmware on the board from a GitHub repository I found (containing the build instructions and software) and all seemed to work well. Bed levelling was working, X and Y are perfectly calibrated but Z it cutting all builds by 1mm. It isn't just a 1mm off the top, but it seems that the entire object has been shrunk. I have tried using different slicers without success. I have used Astroprint (as a primary running Slic3r) and the migbot software (cura) but they don't work. I'm about to try Cura on astroprint and will report is any success. When I manually move the z axis (from within astroprint) it aligns perfectly but when in a print all seems squished. I have aligned the print bed and extruder mulipul times (I will make it higher to see if that fixes it).

Meanwhile if anyone knows what the problem may be please help.

Jed

Sounds like the steps per MM is off
calculate the steps per mm for the z axis.

expected mm/ observed mm * current steps/mm = new steps/mm

in your case this would be
20/19= 1.05236

multiply 1.05236 * current steps ( the default current steps is 400 so 400 * 10.5236 = 421.05263) put the new value in #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT

my settings are
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80.50299,80.38040,402.2293125,97.66329} // (X,Y,Z,E)
// changed to 402.2293125 09/28/2015
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80,80,398.269957,94.4962144}

I use the YACO calibration object it is 60mm in all directions and will make your measurements more accurate. I have attached the YACO instructions, Google YACO.stl to get the file, it is too big to attach.

Ok so I just finished the YACO print on draft quality (0.3mm layer height) and measured at X - 60, Y - 60, Z - 59. So according the model provided by gwc2795 (expected mm/ observed mm * current steps/mm = new steps/mm) 60/59 * 400 = 406.779661017. I shall try this number is the config tomorrow. However I really do need to get a digital caliper as currently I only have an old plastic one with the numbers marked as a ruler along the sides.

Thanks to all who have helped so far and I shall update sometime tomorrow.

Jed

Success. The objects printed now are calibrated and good to go. I didn't change the firmware (didn't want to upload, just kept failing) so I changed my start GCODE around. A
For anyone interested heres my start gcode

G21 ; mm
M300 S700 P200
M300 S700 P200
G90; Absolute Pos
M107; Fan off
M92 Y79.93338884 Z403.4390195
M117 Levleing...
G28; home all
G29; auto level
M117 Preparing...
G1 Z20
M117 Heating...
M190 S[first_layer_bed_temperature]; Set Bed Temp
M109 S[first_layer_temperature_0] T0; set nozzle heater to first layer temperature
M117 Preparing to Start
G92 E0 ; Zero Extruder
G1 Z0.3 ; move z to 0.3mm to avoid scraping bed
G1 Z1 ; lift nozzle to 1 mm ready to begin main sequence
G92 E0 ; zero extruder length
;Put printing message on LCD screen
M117 Printing...

End GCODE

M104 S0
M140 S0
G91
G1 E-1 F300
G1 Z+0.5 E-5 X-20 Y+200 F{travel_speed}
G28 X0
M84
G90
M117 Print Done!
M300 S700 P500
M300 S700 P500
M300 S700 P500

Thanks to all who helped.

Jed

Quote
Marty77
@ Daniel
hi there - I am a total newbie to 3D printing as well - with the same machine - same board
I am on a Mac but I think PC should be the same - I installed a FTDI Driver - its a VPC Virual Com Port Driver from [www.ftdichip.com]
that should provide you whith USB Serial Driver via which you can connect to the Arduino aka MKS Board
Select in the Arduino IDE (also downloadable) your Board - Arduino Mega 2560 - selct the virtual USB port and you should have a connection to the MKS
via that you tweak your firmware
Repetier Host the same - just select the driver - connect to printer - should have manual controll to the printer and should be also able to send G-Code for your first print - yeahhhhhhh

Its a lot of reading getting into that - Chinese product ;-) stay in this forum - these people here know a lot about that machine
Have fun

Hi Marty! Thank you for the advice, finally got it working I still have some issues with the printed parts not always sticking to the bed, but thats just a minor detail, i can work out. I even got a part finished, its a chess pawn Thanks again, Daniel

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Ax

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rowdyjoe
Ax
Yeah, it's been 45 min. and it's just now reacing 105C. Previous high temp was about 85C with a piece of cardboard on top so, this is real progress. I replaced the 16 (?) gauge wire to the bed with 14 gauge copper stranded and insulated the back side of the bed with aprox. 1/8" cork. Wooohoooo ! Just checked and the bed temp is now at 107C. I forgot to cover it with tape so it may do better once I cool it down and apply the masking tape.

What's this about a seperate power supply and relay for the bed? I have a few very good switching PS that came out of servers (12v 1500 watt 46 amp}. What do I need to do to rig it up to the bed? Got a sketch of the hook up?

Garry

You'll need a DC-DC Solid state relay, something along the lines of a SSR-25 DD. Then wire it up like this

Thanks a lot. I'll give it a try. I have eveything except the relay.

Another issue ....I can't get the extruder nozzel at the correct height for printing. Last couple of attempts at printing the test cube failed because the nozzle dug into the tape on the bed. I had manually leveled the bed but, when it began printing the nozzle was too close to the bed.
How do I fix this problem?
I have a feeling I'm missing something in the calibration of the 3 steppers. Park seems to work OK but, "home" is not so good as the print nozzle ends up off the top left corner of the bed and the bed is fully retracted. Where should they be positioned for Home, Park, etc.?

Firmware is Malin and software is Repetier Host.

Garry

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/21/2015 05:18PM by rowdyjoe.

Quote
rowdyjoe
Another issue ....I can't get the extruder nozzel at the correct height for printing. Last couple of attempts at printing the test cube failed because the nozzle dug into the tape on the bed. I had manually leveled the bed but, when it began printing the nozzle was too close to the bed.
How do I fix this problem?
I have a feeling I'm missing something in the calibration of the 3 steppers. Park seems to work OK but, "home" is not so good as the print nozzle ends up off the top left corner of the bed and the bed is fully retracted. Where should they be positioned for Home, Park, etc.?

Firmware is Malin and software is Repetier Host.

Garry

Do you have the Autolevel Sensor?? If so, what I did, was put the throat of the hotend level with mounting block. Then take a piece of thin cardboard (I use a flap from a box of screws) and place it under the hot end Move the Z axis down until you get just a little bit of friction on the cardboard. Adjust the sensor so the light barely comes on. Once you get it printing decent pint this Adjustable sensor mount and you can fine tune it. This is what works for me, and my prints are beautiful.

I have never really LEVELED my bed properly (ADD kicks in to early to finish it) and I have never had an issue.

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veaceonee

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rowdyjoe
Another issue ....I can't get the extruder nozzel at the correct height for printing. Last couple of attempts at printing the test cube failed because the nozzle dug into the tape on the bed. I had manually leveled the bed but, when it began printing the nozzle was too close to the bed.
How do I fix this problem?
I have a feeling I'm missing something in the calibration of the 3 steppers. Park seems to work OK but, "home" is not so good as the print nozzle ends up off the top left corner of the bed and the bed is fully retracted. Where should they be positioned for Home, Park, etc.?

Firmware is Malin and software is Repetier Host.

Garry

Do you have the Autolevel Sensor?? If so, what I did, was put the throat of the hotend level with mounting block. Then take a piece of thin cardboard (I use a flap from a box of screws) and place it under the hot end Move the Z axis down until you get just a little bit of friction on the cardboard. Adjust the sensor so the light barely comes on. Once you get it printing decent pint this Adjustable sensor mount and you can fine tune it. This is what works for me, and my prints are beautiful.

I have never really LEVELED my bed properly (ADD kicks in to early to finish it) and I have never had an issue.

Thanks for the reply.
No auto level ...yet. It's on order but, unless I can get the printer working well enough to print the mount, I'm out of luck. Yes, I can definitley see the advantage of auto-level and am looking forward to adding it to my machine.
I've also ordered the relay to add a separate power supply to heat the bed. That will be a great time saver.

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Ax

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rowdyjoe
Ax
Yeah, it's been 45 min. and it's just now reacing 105C. Previous high temp was about 85C with a piece of cardboard on top so, this is real progress. I replaced the 16 (?) gauge wire to the bed with 14 gauge copper stranded and insulated the back side of the bed with aprox. 1/8" cork. Wooohoooo ! Just checked and the bed temp is now at 107C. I forgot to cover it with tape so it may do better once I cool it down and apply the masking tape.

What's this about a seperate power supply and relay for the bed? I have a few very good switching PS that came out of servers (12v 1500 watt 46 amp}. What do I need to do to rig it up to the bed? Got a sketch of the hook up?

Garry

You'll need a DC-DC Solid state relay, something along the lines of a SSR-25 DD. Then wire it up like this

Once I get this rigged up, how do I control the temperature of the bed?

Quote
rowdyjoe

Quote
Ax

Quote
rowdyjoe
Ax
Yeah, it's been 45 min. and it's just now reacing 105C. Previous high temp was about 85C with a piece of cardboard on top so, this is real progress. I replaced the 16 (?) gauge wire to the bed with 14 gauge copper stranded and insulated the back side of the bed with aprox. 1/8" cork. Wooohoooo ! Just checked and the bed temp is now at 107C. I forgot to cover it with tape so it may do better once I cool it down and apply the masking tape.

What's this about a seperate power supply and relay for the bed? I have a few very good switching PS that came out of servers (12v 1500 watt 46 amp}. What do I need to do to rig it up to the bed? Got a sketch of the hook up?

Garry

You'll need a DC-DC Solid state relay, something along the lines of a SSR-25 DD. Then wire it up like this

Once I get this rigged up, how do I control the temperature of the bed?

Remove the 2 wires going to the bed heater from the controller board. Run 2 wires from the location you disconnected the bed heater wires to the SSR-DD (be sure to observe polarity on the input to the SSR). Connect one of the bed heater wires to the power supply +12V, connect the other wire to the + side of the number 2 screw on the SSR (it will be labeled +) Run a wire from number 1 screw on the SSR (it will be labeled -) to the negative side of the power supply. You will be ready to heat the bed.

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rowdyjoe

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Ax

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rowdyjoe
Ax
Yeah, it's been 45 min. and it's just now reacing 105C. Previous high temp was about 85C with a piece of cardboard on top so, this is real progress. I replaced the 16 (?) gauge wire to the bed with 14 gauge copper stranded and insulated the back side of the bed with aprox. 1/8" cork. Wooohoooo ! Just checked and the bed temp is now at 107C. I forgot to cover it with tape so it may do better once I cool it down and apply the masking tape.

What's this about a seperate power supply and relay for the bed? I have a few very good switching PS that came out of servers (12v 1500 watt 46 amp}. What do I need to do to rig it up to the bed? Got a sketch of the hook up?

Garry

You'll need a DC-DC Solid state relay, something along the lines of a SSR-25 DD. Then wire it up like this

Once I get this rigged up, how do I control the temperature of the bed?

As you would before. The relay is like a switch, instead of the power coming from the board, the power comes from a separate power supply or a spare rail on the printer's power supply. This allows more current to flow as it's limited by the Board. Connecting the wires from the board to the input of the relay makes the board a controller to control the relay opening and closing. When the board tells the relay to switch on, the circuit is completed and the bed heats up.

Quote
rowdyjoe
Another issue ....I can't get the extruder nozzel at the correct height for printing. Last couple of attempts at printing the test cube failed because the nozzle dug into the tape on the bed. I had manually leveled the bed but, when it began printing the nozzle was too close to the bed.
How do I fix this problem?
I have a feeling I'm missing something in the calibration of the 3 steppers. Park seems to work OK but, "home" is not so good as the print nozzle ends up off the top left corner of the bed and the bed is fully retracted. Where should they be positioned for Home, Park, etc.?

Firmware is Malin and software is Repetier Host.

Garry

Home is meant to do that. If you're manually levelling the bed, then you're not getting it right, assuming you have the correct firmware version. I'd personally re-flash the correct firmware to make sure, links are over on the Migbot wiki page, then try again. If it still does it, try less and less drag on the paper until it's right, there's a knack to it which no-one can really teach you how to do and you have to learn what is right and wrong, and this varies from printer to printer, eg, what's right on my CTC/Flashforge Replicator X Pro, isn't the same for the Migbots. Keep at it and you'll get it right.

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gwc2795

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rowdyjoe

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Ax

Quote
rowdyjoe
Ax
Yeah, it's been 45 min. and it's just now reacing 105C. Previous high temp was about 85C with a piece of cardboard on top so, this is real progress. I replaced the 16 (?) gauge wire to the bed with 14 gauge copper stranded and insulated the back side of the bed with aprox. 1/8" cork. Wooohoooo ! Just checked and the bed temp is now at 107C. I forgot to cover it with tape so it may do better once I cool it down and apply the masking tape.

What's this about a seperate power supply and relay for the bed? I have a few very good switching PS that came out of servers (12v 1500 watt 46 amp}. What do I need to do to rig it up to the bed? Got a sketch of the hook up?

Garry

You'll need a DC-DC Solid state relay, something along the lines of a SSR-25 DD. Then wire it up like this

Once I get this rigged up, how do I control the temperature of the bed?

Remove the 2 wires going to the bed heater from the controller board. Run 2 wires from the location you disconnected the bed heater wires to the SSR-DD (be sure to observe polarity on the input to the SSR). Connect one of the bed heater wires to the power supply +12V, connect the other wire to the + side of the number 2 screw on the SSR (it will be labeled +) Run a wire from number 1 screw on the SSR (it will be labeled -) to the negative side of the power supply. You will be ready to heat the bed.

Excellent instructions. Thanks.

I knew this was going to be a "project" when I bought the kit but, I thought I would be happily printing parts, etc. by now. Little did I know.

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Ax

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rowdyjoe
Another issue ....I can't get the extruder nozzel at the correct height for printing. Last couple of attempts at printing the test cube failed because the nozzle dug into the tape on the bed. I had manually leveled the bed but, when it began printing the nozzle was too close to the bed.
How do I fix this problem?
I have a feeling I'm missing something in the calibration of the 3 steppers. Park seems to work OK but, "home" is not so good as the print nozzle ends up off the top left corner of the bed and the bed is fully retracted. Where should they be positioned for Home, Park, etc.?

Firmware is Malin and software is Repetier Host.

Garry

Home is meant to do that. If you're manually levelling the bed, then you're not getting it right, assuming you have the correct firmware version. I'd personally re-flash the correct firmware to make sure, links are over on the Migbot wiki page, then try again. If it still does it, try less and less drag on the paper until it's right, there's a knack to it which no-one can really teach you how to do and you have to learn what is right and wrong, and this varies from printer to printer, eg, what's right on my CTC/Flashforge Replicator X Pro, isn't the same for the Migbots. Keep at it and you'll get it right.

Thanks again. Sometimes I think I'm going crazy. I keep trying the same things over and over and expecting different results. I'll re-flash Marlin and try again.
I tried changing the nozzle height in the G code and that seemed to help ...a little. The nozzle still touched the tape but, it didn't rip it off the bed. However, I doubt the fix will be found there. I need to get it right.

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rowdyjoe

Quote
Ax

Quote
rowdyjoe
Another issue ....I can't get the extruder nozzel at the correct height for printing. Last couple of attempts at printing the test cube failed because the nozzle dug into the tape on the bed. I had manually leveled the bed but, when it began printing the nozzle was too close to the bed.
How do I fix this problem?
I have a feeling I'm missing something in the calibration of the 3 steppers. Park seems to work OK but, "home" is not so good as the print nozzle ends up off the top left corner of the bed and the bed is fully retracted. Where should they be positioned for Home, Park, etc.?

Firmware is Malin and software is Repetier Host.

Garry

Home is meant to do that. If you're manually levelling the bed, then you're not getting it right, assuming you have the correct firmware version. I'd personally re-flash the correct firmware to make sure, links are over on the Migbot wiki page, then try again. If it still does it, try less and less drag on the paper until it's right, there's a knack to it which no-one can really teach you how to do and you have to learn what is right and wrong, and this varies from printer to printer, eg, what's right on my CTC/Flashforge Replicator X Pro, isn't the same for the Migbots. Keep at it and you'll get it right.

Thanks again. Sometimes I think I'm going crazy. I keep trying the same things over and over and expecting different results. I'll re-flash Marlin and try again.
I tried changing the nozzle height in the G code and that seemed to help ...a little. The nozzle still touched the tape but, it didn't rip it off the bed. However, I doubt the fix will be found there. I need to get it right.

I had a similar frustration with the auto bed leveling (I carved all kinds of images in the bed). This is the correct (for me) line from configuration.h file
#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 0 // -below (always!)
I finally understood that the sheet of paper is really setting the bed height at ~1mm when the Z axis is set to zero. If your 1st layer height is to be 2mm then the firmware only raises the Z axis by 1mm to start the first layer, you end up with a first layer tightly packed against the bed. Once you have run the G28 Z command using the inductive sensor and manually leveled your bed using a sheet of paper then run the G29 command. BE SURE THAT THE X AXIS IS PARALLEL TO THE Y AXIS SMOOTH RODS THAT SUPPORT THE BED or auto bed leveling will not work, it can not correct for the X axis being out of level with the Y axis.
Don't give up it took me a considerable time to get it correct.
I check for parallel each day before printing. I have attached the file to print gauge sticks to make sure the axis are parallel. You will need to print two sticks one for each Y axis smooth rod. Place a gauge on each Y axis smooth rod and manually lower or raise the z axis until the X axis i barely touching the guages. The gauges are designed to be removed without disturbing the setting. Hope all this verbiage makes sense.

Well I have been working on my rework for well over a month now and think I have it pretty good. Everything is solid, I have it bridging really well at 30mm, haven't tested much more than that but I think it will do double that fine.

I will post a link to my STLs here but it is also in the migbot wiki if you need it in the future without digging through here.

DISCLAIMER: I can not take credit for a good portion of items here as most I got from thingverse and reworked to fit the Migbot. However a good chunk I did design from scratch
[drive.google.com]

I am still working on the under carriage cable management and will add things as I finish them.

All parts are printed from PLA but I have my hotend insulated with a silicon self fusing tape I got from home depot for $6, It's good up to 500F (260C) which should be good for anything up to nylon. It keeps the heat in real well I can touch the hotend for a few seconds before it gets too hot to touch but does not radiate heat.


Hope this helps somebody!! As always if you guys have any questions feel free to ask.

Hi Folks,

I've had help from members before in setting up my printer (large bed version, MKS 1.3 Board) and I had it working for a while and made a few decent prints.

However I had a go at configuring the step counts of the motors using the YACO print file and updated the configuration.h file and uploaded it through Arduino.

Since then whenever I turned the printer on I could turn on the bed and extruder, but whenever I press the 'Home' function in repetier-host the motors would create
travel of 10-20mm and stop without coming into contact with anything even though the M119 code shows that the limit switches are okay and working.
I have noticed though that when jogging the motors that they will move one way but not the other?!

I have noticed in the log that it comes up with a line saying 'Printer Error: In dry-run mode until restart!'

I have restarted and the message still comes up; I've even been so far as to wipe the printer and repetier from my laptop and re-install them but to no avail.

Any ideas as to how I've fubared this and how to fix it would be greatly appreciated. (I had a look through the thread but couldn't find anything like this).

Cheers,
David

Was messing around, and the printer kept over temping. I think the temps were a little low for it, what do you think?

Hotend overtemps at 250
Bed overtemps at 70

That doesnt seem right, how can I fix this?

Quote
worthidlj
Hi Folks,

I've had help from members before in setting up my printer (large bed version, MKS 1.3 Board) and I had it working for a while and made a few decent prints.

However I had a go at configuring the step counts of the motors using the YACO print file and updated the configuration.h file and uploaded it through Arduino.

Since then whenever I turned the printer on I could turn on the bed and extruder, but whenever I press the 'Home' function in repetier-host the motors would create
travel of 10-20mm and stop without coming into contact with anything even though the M119 code shows that the limit switches are okay and working.
I have noticed though that when jogging the motors that they will move one way but not the other?!

I have noticed in the log that it comes up with a line saying 'Printer Error: In dry-run mode until restart!'

I have restarted and the message still comes up; I've even been so far as to wipe the printer and repetier from my laptop and re-install them but to no avail.

Any ideas as to how I've fubared this and how to fix it would be greatly appreciated. (I had a look through the thread but couldn't find anything like this).

Cheers,
David

Start from scratch on the firmware. Grab the correct one from the Github repository linked in the Migbot Wiki page/[ and go from there.]

Quote
veaceonee
Was messing around, and the printer kept over temping. I think the temps were a little low for it, what do you think?

Hotend overtemps at 250
Bed overtemps at 70

That doesnt seem right, how can I fix this?

You can change that in the firmware. Look for the following in configuration.h:

#define HEATER_0_MAXTEMP 265
#define HEATER_1_MAXTEMP 275
#define HEATER_2_MAXTEMP 275
#define BED_MAXTEMP 130

This is directly from my Migbot firmware copy. I wouldn't go over 265 as it'll kill the PTFE liner in the hotend.

Quote
Ax

Quote
veaceonee
Was messing around, and the printer kept over temping. I think the temps were a little low for it, what do you think?

Hotend overtemps at 250
Bed overtemps at 70

That doesnt seem right, how can I fix this?

You can change that in the firmware. Look for the following in configuration.h:

#define HEATER_0_MAXTEMP 265
#define HEATER_1_MAXTEMP 275
#define HEATER_2_MAXTEMP 275
#define BED_MAXTEMP 130

This is directly from my Migbot firmware copy. I wouldn't go over 265 as it'll kill the PTFE liner in the hotend.

Bed is already at 130 in firmware..still get Overtemp at 70

Some of the wire break or loose from my experience. Check it out, specially the stepper wire very easy break and the thermistor wire

IDK..its weird, temps are diplaying, but I keep gettin a 104 TO error every time now.

Quote
veaceonee
IDK..its weird, temps are diplaying, but I keep gettin a 104 TO error every time now.

Can you measure the temperature of the hotend?

No..I don't have anything to really measure it. Would a PID auto tune help?

Quote
worthidlj
Hi Folks,

I've had help from members before in setting up my printer (large bed version, MKS 1.3 Board) and I had it working for a while and made a few decent prints.

However I had a go at configuring the step counts of the motors using the YACO print file and updated the configuration.h file and uploaded it through Arduino.

Since then whenever I turned the printer on I could turn on the bed and extruder, but whenever I press the 'Home' function in repetier-host the motors would create
travel of 10-20mm and stop without coming into contact with anything even though the M119 code shows that the limit switches are okay and working.
I have noticed though that when jogging the motors that they will move one way but not the other?!

I have noticed in the log that it comes up with a line saying 'Printer Error: In dry-run mode until restart!'

I have restarted and the message still comes up; I've even been so far as to wipe the printer and repetier from my laptop and re-install them but to no avail.

Any ideas as to how I've fubared this and how to fix it would be greatly appreciated. (I had a look through the thread but couldn't find anything like this).

Cheers,
David

X axis only moves in one direction and/or Endstops do not work
This may be due to bad 644P Fuse Settings. The settings come from the bootloaders "hardware/arduino/boards.txt" file from sanguino. Good setting for 644P board are:
atmega644.bootloader.low_fuses=0xFF
atmega644.bootloader.high_fuses=0xDC
atmega644.bootloader.extended_fuses=0xFD
Then you need the reburn the bootloader with these settings.

Hey guys, I have been running into an issue and am hoping someone can help. I attached a picture, I'm getting gaps in my outer shell, I'm getting them with two different brands of filament, and can't seem to pinpoint the cause. The layers are stuck well, I can't pull anything apart, I've messed with retraction in both directions with no effect, raised extrusion width also with no effect. HELP!

Quote
CrackinX
Hey guys, I have been running into an issue and am hoping someone can help. I attached a picture, I'm getting gaps in my outer shell, I'm getting them with two different brands of filament, and can't seem to pinpoint the cause. The layers are stuck well, I can't pull anything apart, I've messed with retraction in both directions with no effect, raised extrusion width also with no effect. HELP!

Check the current going to the extruder motor. It seems to be skipping. The other culprit I have dealt with involves a clog starting to form in the nozzle throat, it starts off the sams as you have pictured although it is all the way through the print. Also related to this is the speed of the top and bottom layer printing in the slicer.

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gwc2795

Quote
CrackinX
Hey guys, I have been running into an issue and am hoping someone can help. I attached a picture, I'm getting gaps in my outer shell, I'm getting them with two different brands of filament, and can't seem to pinpoint the cause. The layers are stuck well, I can't pull anything apart, I've messed with retraction in both directions with no effect, raised extrusion width also with no effect. HELP!

Check the current going to the extruder motor. It seems to be skipping. The other culprit I have dealt with involves a clog starting to form in the nozzle throat, it starts off the sams as you have pictured although it is all the way through the print. Also related to this is the speed of the top and bottom layer printing in the slicer.

I would agree that it looks like skipping except it only happens on external perimeters. I was studying my sli3cer settings and noticed iI had external perimeters set to 50% speed instead of 50mm/s. I have been printing a part overnight and haven't checked it yet to see if it has the same outcome, but will post back once iI do.

EDIT: That seems to have done it. I just had the external perimeters extruding to slow.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/29/2015 02:59PM by CrackinX.

Any idea why the LCD goes all fritzy during prints? Does it every time about 5 minutes into the print. Still prints ok.

Quote
veaceonee
Any idea why the LCD goes all fritzy during prints? Does it every time about 5 minutes into the print. Still prints ok.

When it does it measure the 5V line to make sure you are not having a voltage drop.