Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread

Hi folks,

Hope everyone is enjoying the festive holidays (if so inclined or not).

I've had the printer working well since my last issue and now looking to upgrade a couple of bits.

I backed the Diamond Hotend Extruder on kickstarter and got the Rumba board; but naivety on my part meant I mounted this board instead of the printers original MKS Base 1.3 (which I'm still using now).
When I first turned the power supply on I forgot to switch it to 220V (I live in the UK) so it appears the board has blown and I'm not electrically inclined to have any chance of repairing it.

I've recently seen that reprap.me now sell the diamond kit with a RAMPS 1.4 plus a stepper expander.

I'm wondering if anyone knows if it's possible to add a stepper expander to the MKS Base 1.3 board and how to do it?

Any advice greatly appreciated.

Cheers,
David

Quote
worthidlj
Hi folks,

Hope everyone is enjoying the festive holidays (if so inclined or not).

I've had the printer working well since my last issue and now looking to upgrade a couple of bits.

I backed the Diamond Hotend Extruder on kickstarter and got the Rumba board; but naivety on my part meant I mounted this board instead of the printers original MKS Base 1.3 (which I'm still using now).
When I first turned the power supply on I forgot to switch it to 220V (I live in the UK) so it appears the board has blown and I'm not electrically inclined to have any chance of repairing it.

I've recently seen that reprap.me now sell the diamond kit with a RAMPS 1.4 plus a stepper expander.

I'm wondering if anyone knows if it's possible to add a stepper expander to the MKS Base 1.3 board and how to do it?

Any advice greatly appreciated.

Cheers,
David

It may be possible, after all the MKS Base is just a RAMPS and Arduino 2560 combined, but there's very little info on the MKS base boards. Yes, there's aux pins on the board, but I'm not sure what the pin numbers are, so it's difficult to say where to connect it. Personally, I'd be looking at an all-in-one solution that will support the Diamond, preferably a 32 bit board, but that's just my choice.

Thanks for the quick response Ax, ant advice/ opinions greatly welcomed.

Which boards would you recommend?

Cheers,
David

Quote
worthidlj
Thanks for the quick response Ax, ant advice/ opinions greatly welcomed.

Which boards would you recommend?

Cheers,
David

32 bit, I'd go smoothieboard. The 5XC version has outputs for 5 Steppers, therefore could run the Diamond easily. That and it's much easier to configure than marlin as it's all done via a configuration file on the SD Card and there's no re-flashing the firmware any time you make a change. It's change the setting in the config file and it automatically reloads.

16 Bit, Rumba is probably your best bet, personally, I don't like the stacked RAMPS/Arduino boards, that you then have to add on to to add extra functionality. I prefer an all-in-one solution where it's all there on the board, but it's all down to preference. If you don't mind multiple Stacked boards, the RAMPS is fine.

Hello Guys , I have been struggling to get prints in center of bed with my migbot but I doesnt . Please give me some ideas how to do it

I bought one of these metal extruder upgrades for my migbot.
[www.ebay.ca]

It looks like a much better extruder than the printed one it came with. Problem is it doesn't fit inside the metal bracket. There isn't a good way to mount it and the level touches the metal preventing it from being used.

I was thinking of replacing the whole x-carriage with something like this for the prusa. Not sure if the spacing between the rods is the same as the migbot though.
[www.thingiverse.com]
I figure this carriage gives more options for extruder mounts since the prusa design is more popular.


Has any body upgraded their extruder or x-carriage on these migbots? Please share.

Quote
kareem613
I bought one of these metal extruder upgrades for my migbot.
[www.ebay.ca]

It looks like a much better extruder than the printed one it came with. Problem is it doesn't fit inside the metal bracket. There isn't a good way to mount it and the level touches the metal preventing it from being used.

I was thinking of replacing the whole x-carriage with something like this for the prusa. Not sure if the spacing between the rods is the same as the migbot though.
[www.thingiverse.com]
I figure this carriage gives more options for extruder mounts since the prusa design is more popular.


Has any body upgraded their extruder or x-carriage on these migbots? Please share.

I did.
I got this one off eBay. (The normal one)
[www.ebay.com]

I had to drill new holes in the metal carriage. And drill and tap holes in the metal extruder.


I'll attach pictures in a moment. Need to switch to pc
edit:pictures file are to big here is links to my dropbox of the pictures[www.dropbox.com]
[www.dropbox.com]

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/02/2016 11:56PM by Wes78.

Quote
Joey
Hello Guys , I have been struggling to get prints in center of bed with my migbot but I doesnt . Please give me some ideas how to do it

Take a look at the wiki page - [reprap.org] - there's a bunch of FAQ there and a way to fix your issue.

Quote
kareem613
I bought one of these metal extruder upgrades for my migbot.
[www.ebay.ca]

It looks like a much better extruder than the printed one it came with. Problem is it doesn't fit inside the metal bracket. There isn't a good way to mount it and the level touches the metal preventing it from being used.

I was thinking of replacing the whole x-carriage with something like this for the prusa. Not sure if the spacing between the rods is the same as the migbot though.
[www.thingiverse.com]
I figure this carriage gives more options for extruder mounts since the prusa design is more popular.

Has any body upgraded their extruder or x-carriage on these migbots? Please share.

Yup, I've changed out for an E3D Lite6 on both my Migbots and redesigned the carriage - [www.thingiverse.com]

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/03/2016 01:51AM by Ax.

Hey guys.

Well I've been printing for a couple of weeks now
After working thru some of the issues that came with the printer it's been running pretty good. But 2 nights ago I ran a 4 hour print from the SD card. Every thing went fine I unplug it and went to bed. The next day when I got home I fired up my pc and the printer only to find that the ldc screen only display blocks.... no info of any kind.
Soo... first thing I did I'd make sure it wasn't the motherboard.. so I set up a print via the pc and it work just fine. No problemsense at all. Just the lcd screen not working right.

So my question is. Could there still be something wrong with the motherboard when it comes to the lcd part of it? Or could have the actual lcd controler gone bad?

On a side note...... every once in a while the ldc would display some kind of gibberish on the screen a simple repower up would clear that and it would work properly from there

Thoughts or ideas?

Thanks.

Quote
Wes78
Hey guys.

Well I've been printing for a couple of weeks now
After working thru some of the issues that came with the printer it's been running pretty good. But 2 nights ago I ran a 4 hour print from the SD card. Every thing went fine I unplug it and went to bed. The next day when I got home I fired up my pc and the printer only to find that the ldc screen only display blocks.... no info of any kind.
Soo... first thing I did I'd make sure it wasn't the motherboard.. so I set up a print via the pc and it work just fine. No problemsense at all. Just the lcd screen not working right.

So my question is. Could there still be something wrong with the motherboard when it comes to the lcd part of it? Or could have the actual lcd controler gone bad?

On a side note...... every once in a while the ldc would display some kind of gibberish on the screen a simple repower up would clear that and it would work properly from there

Thoughts or ideas?

Thanks.

3 things it could be. Cable connections, not enough power to the board, or firmware. Check your cable connections, take a multimeter to the PSU and make sure it's putting out 12-12.1v, if it's none of those re-flash the firmware...

Quote
Ax

3 things it could be. Cable connections, not enough power to the board, or firmware. Check your cable connections, take a multimeter to the PSU and make sure it's putting out 12-12.1v, if it's none of those re-flash the firmware...

I have checked the connections twice. I definitely need to check the power out put. I'll do that when I get home.

And firmware will... it's been working. Can it just change on its own? ( be corrupted in some way)

But I'll reflash it to be sure

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/07/2016 09:01AM by Wes78.

Quote
Wes78

Quote
Ax

3 things it could be. Cable connections, not enough power to the board, or firmware. Check your cable connections, take a multimeter to the PSU and make sure it's putting out 12-12.1v, if it's none of those re-flash the firmware...

I have checked the connections twice. I definitely need to check the power out put. I'll do that when I get home.

And firmware will... it's been working. Can it just change on its own?

But I'll reflash it to be sure

It's mainly due to power issues, you may want to change the wires from the PSU to the Board to 14AWG, as it doesn't ship with the correct gauge wire and you'll notice it gets warm, which shouldn't happen. Re-flashing the firmware sometimes helps as it can be slightly corrupted and still work.

Oh that was the first thing I did. And actually... I used 12awg solid copper wire. (Over kill I know lol)
I also run the bed off 24v separate power supply.

Seem odd tho if it is the firmware that I can actually still print just fine. That it would only effect the ldc part of the firmware.

I have ordered a new lcd just to have everything covered.

I'll check the input power
Reflash
And I'll report back

Thanks AX for the fast response!

Interesting side note that I forgot to mention the LCD screen works (did work ) with the power supply and without the power supply meaning, when I have my USB plug in my lcd screen work, which leads me to believe that the LCD screen is powered by 3-5v
If my power supply is only putting out let's say 10v think I "should" still be getting the 3-5v needed to run the lcd.

I haven't looked at the motherboard yet to see how the power is laid out. But I have a hunch power isn't my problem.... tho. ... I may be completely wrong.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/07/2016 10:57AM by Wes78.

I check my voltage it was a bit high it was 12.8 so I went ahead and knocked it back down the 12, but from what I understand that this motherboard and motors can run at a higher voltage than that.
So the next thing I did reflash the firmware then unfortunately still no change
The next thing I did I pulled off the LCD and checked all the solder joints and any bad places that might be on the board and I couldn't find anything
When I first power of the printer up I get two rows of square blocks and then a few seconds later I get four rows of square blocks I really don't know what to do at this point, but maybe replace the LCD screen



Edit:I also got the pin out and check the voltage going to the LCD screen and it is in fact 5 volts

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/07/2016 04:44PM by Wes78.

Quote
Ax

32 bit, I'd go smoothieboard. The 5XC version has outputs for 5 Steppers, therefore could run the Diamond easily. That and it's much easier to configure than marlin as it's all done via a configuration file on the SD Card and there's no re-flashing the firmware any time you make a change. It's change the setting in the config file and it automatically reloads.

16 Bit, Rumba is probably your best bet, personally, I don't like the stacked RAMPS/Arduino boards, that you then have to add on to to add extra functionality. I prefer an all-in-one solution where it's all there on the board, but it's all down to preference. If you don't mind multiple Stacked boards, the RAMPS is fine.

Hi Ax,

Sorry for not getting back earlier; I thought the Rumba would be an option, but would the smootieboard really work as it only has outputs for 5 motors whereas you would need 6 (3 axis motors and 3 feed motors)?

Cheers,
David

Bugger, seems I can't count.. lemme have a think and search. I know there's a 32bit board out there that supports more than 2 hot ends...

Quote
worthidlj

Quote
Ax

32 bit, I'd go smoothieboard. The 5XC version has outputs for 5 Steppers, therefore could run the Diamond easily. That and it's much easier to configure than marlin as it's all done via a configuration file on the SD Card and there's no re-flashing the firmware any time you make a change. It's change the setting in the config file and it automatically reloads.

16 Bit, Rumba is probably your best bet, personally, I don't like the stacked RAMPS/Arduino boards, that you then have to add on to to add extra functionality. I prefer an all-in-one solution where it's all there on the board, but it's all down to preference. If you don't mind multiple Stacked boards, the RAMPS is fine.

Hi Ax,

Sorry for not getting back earlier; I thought the Rumba would be an option, but would the smootieboard really work as it only has outputs for 5 motors whereas you would need 6 (3 axis motors and 3 feed motors)?

Cheers,
David

Here's a board I was thinking about using when I build my next printer.

Not a bad price and can run up to 8 step motors and up to 5 extruders


[www.panucatt.com]

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 01/08/2016 09:08AM by Wes78.

Quote
worthidlj

Quote
Ax

32 bit, I'd go smoothieboard. The 5XC version has outputs for 5 Steppers, therefore could run the Diamond easily. That and it's much easier to configure than marlin as it's all done via a configuration file on the SD Card and there's no re-flashing the firmware any time you make a change. It's change the setting in the config file and it automatically reloads.

16 Bit, Rumba is probably your best bet, personally, I don't like the stacked RAMPS/Arduino boards, that you then have to add on to to add extra functionality. I prefer an all-in-one solution where it's all there on the board, but it's all down to preference. If you don't mind multiple Stacked boards, the RAMPS is fine.

Hi Ax,

Sorry for not getting back earlier; I thought the Rumba would be an option, but would the smootieboard really work as it only has outputs for 5 motors whereas you would need 6 (3 axis motors and 3 feed motors)?

Cheers,
David

Something like the RADDS board would work, it's a stacked system that runs off the Arduino Due.. can microstep up to 128 with the right drivers, not mu first choice, but would definately work..

For the sake of others troubleshooting, I thought i would post my fix for the LCD not working issues,

Out of desperation i ordered a new LCD i found them off ebay for 10$ i got 2 of them shipped for 25$ had them in 3 days
First problem with that is the plug connectors are turned the upside down, so the orientation of the plug was incorrect...
after cutting a slot in the new lcd plugin soas i can orient the plug the right way The Lcd well still didnt work... all 3 didnt work
at this point i see it very unlikely that all 3 had something bad in them, after scratching my head for a few mins, the thought of swamping out the cables came to mind (the new lcds came with news ones but much shorter) and wouldnt you know it... IT WORKS all 3 of them do. so something wrong with the ribbon cable, not sure how or why, its not something that gets moved around its all neatly zip-tied in place and been that way since the printer has been up and running.

Anyway i thought i would share what i found as the cables never came in to mind as a possibility as to what was wrong

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/11/2016 04:28PM by Wes78.

Hello All,

Been reading perusing the thread, and enjoying it. Lots of notes taken for little tweaks to my setup.

Bought my first 3d Printer from the 3dprintersonlinestore everyone cringes about. But I didn't have any issues.

Electron 3d 6th generation Prusa i3.
I spent the extra for the Mk8 Extruder, auto leveler and enlarged bed.

Dont bother with the enlarged bed from them. Just buy a larger one from one of the stores like amazon or something. They make a 300x200 bed. Its cheaper and will be stronger and more stable.

The Mk8 extruder is a dream (after watching people with cheaper/printed extruders. I cant express enough how happy I am with the extruder.. because I have ZERO issues with it ever.
The autoleveling option, is excellent. It works well once adjusted.. and yes it took some fiddling and bed leveling tests to get it to be at the right height. Either too high or too low. Once right, it made life so much easier.

Bed.
Ok this is crap. A piece of plexi for the carriage.. with thin arms that hold a aluminum plate.. O.o And then the thing flexes and twists and is NEVER perfectly flat.
Granted.. I have a machine shop in the garage. And am used to things being measured to much tigher tolerances.. this thing is off by a couple tenths between the sides and middle. Evil Knievel could jump Caesars palace off it!!

SO for those who want to upgrade.. and are machinists... or know one. And plan to plop down a couple plates of aluminum....NOTE.... this will increase the mass on the y axis a LOT. And your factory speeds will cause a wealth of skips.

For my machine I got a 5/8 thick plate, and a 1/2 plate for the base. 6061-T6. (killing gnats with a sledge hammer)
I also made sure the build plate was 15" long, and 10.5 (iirc) wide. Needless to say... they weighed more then the entire rest of the machine. But I polished them and they were BEAUTIFUL.... even though the machine could hardly move them.

Ok so I had to machine them down a TON. I ended up with the bed being around (iirc) 1/4 thick plate with 5/8 thick sides for stiffness.
The carriage plate was also down to nearly 1/4 inch thick, but had thicker and thinner areas for rigidity.

The machine prints nicely.. and once the table is trued, it STAYS. Its amazing.. I have been printing every other day.. 8-20 hour long prints, and it stays completely repeatable. Its really nice to have the stability. I still need to lighten it a bit so I can increase speeds, but its a huge improvement.
The next plan... remove the y axis belt, and go to ballscrew. I am also going to move to appx 30 inch travel in the y axis. I might widen the X and convert to ballscrew also.

Bed heater... works great now that the plate is a large aluminum heat sink. It soaks up the warmth and stays really stable. I usually run 40C for pla, and it holds it with no issues... although I will be buying a larger heater and going with a relay and external power.

SO

I have a issue.
This has been happening since I unpacked it and did the first level in cura software.
When doing the level, and it does the grid pattern.. when traveling in the X axis.. the Y axis very slowly moves. And it will move the spot it was headed by around 1cm. It does this for every X axis movement.
The y motor actually turns ever so slowly.

Deciding it was possibly firmware.. I went to the latest Marlin firmware.. spent a couple days tweaking speeds and feeds so she was printing without skips in the Y, (from the weight etc) and whenever it calibrates the grid... it does that y creep thing.

Also all of my prints that are round, have a slight oval to them. y axis belt tight, as well as X. But it was a slight oval when new.. now that the y axis belt is looser from the heavy bed load (I need to add a tensioner) the ovaling is worse.. but I think its just being exacerbated.

So......
Is there something I am missing? That would cause that creep in the Y axis? A X movement signal alone manually using the software Jog feature.. it still does it. I am thinking there is a controller issue... that would cause current leak possibly?
I have spent months searching and never find anything.. everyone always has motors skipping.. not a smooth creep of y axis.

Thanks for all the info in the thread... Gems of tribal knowledge for us all.

(I will add some pics of the larger bed when home)

Quote
spinracing
Hello All,

Been reading perusing the thread, and enjoying it. Lots of notes taken for little tweaks to my setup.

Bought my first 3d Printer from the 3dprintersonlinestore everyone cringes about. But I didn't have any issues.

Electron 3d 6th generation Prusa i3.
I spent the extra for the Mk8 Extruder, auto leveler and enlarged bed.

Dont bother with the enlarged bed from them. Just buy a larger one from one of the stores like amazon or something. They make a 300x200 bed. Its cheaper and will be stronger and more stable.

The Mk8 extruder is a dream (after watching people with cheaper/printed extruders. I cant express enough how happy I am with the extruder.. because I have ZERO issues with it ever.
The autoleveling option, is excellent. It works well once adjusted.. and yes it took some fiddling and bed leveling tests to get it to be at the right height. Either too high or too low. Once right, it made life so much easier.

Bed.
Ok this is crap. A piece of plexi for the carriage.. with thin arms that hold a aluminum plate.. O.o And then the thing flexes and twists and is NEVER perfectly flat.
Granted.. I have a machine shop in the garage. And am used to things being measured to much tigher tolerances.. this thing is off by a couple tenths between the sides and middle. Evil Knievel could jump Caesars palace off it!!

SO for those who want to upgrade.. and are machinists... or know one. And plan to plop down a couple plates of aluminum....NOTE.... this will increase the mass on the y axis a LOT. And your factory speeds will cause a wealth of skips.

For my machine I got a 5/8 thick plate, and a 1/2 plate for the base. 6061-T6. (killing gnats with a sledge hammer)
I also made sure the build plate was 15" long, and 10.5 (iirc) wide. Needless to say... they weighed more then the entire rest of the machine. But I polished them and they were BEAUTIFUL.... even though the machine could hardly move them.

Ok so I had to machine them down a TON. I ended up with the bed being around (iirc) 1/4 thick plate with 5/8 thick sides for stiffness.
The carriage plate was also down to nearly 1/4 inch thick, but had thicker and thinner areas for rigidity.

The machine prints nicely.. and once the table is trued, it STAYS. Its amazing.. I have been printing every other day.. 8-20 hour long prints, and it stays completely repeatable. Its really nice to have the stability. I still need to lighten it a bit so I can increase speeds, but its a huge improvement.
The next plan... remove the y axis belt, and go to ballscrew. I am also going to move to appx 30 inch travel in the y axis. I might widen the X and convert to ballscrew also.

Bed heater... works great now that the plate is a large aluminum heat sink. It soaks up the warmth and stays really stable. I usually run 40C for pla, and it holds it with no issues... although I will be buying a larger heater and going with a relay and external power.

SO

I have a issue.
This has been happening since I unpacked it and did the first level in cura software.
When doing the level, and it does the grid pattern.. when traveling in the X axis.. the Y axis very slowly moves. And it will move the spot it was headed by around 1cm. It does this for every X axis movement.
The y motor actually turns ever so slowly.

Deciding it was possibly firmware.. I went to the latest Marlin firmware.. spent a couple days tweaking speeds and feeds so she was printing without skips in the Y, (from the weight etc) and whenever it calibrates the grid... it does that y creep thing.

Also all of my prints that are round, have a slight oval to them. y axis belt tight, as well as X. But it was a slight oval when new.. now that the y axis belt is looser from the heavy bed load (I need to add a tensioner) the ovaling is worse.. but I think its just being exacerbated.

So......
Is there something I am missing? That would cause that creep in the Y axis? A X movement signal alone manually using the software Jog feature.. it still does it. I am thinking there is a controller issue... that would cause current leak possibly?
I have spent months searching and never find anything.. everyone always has motors skipping.. not a smooth creep of y axis.

Thanks for all the info in the thread... Gems of tribal knowledge for us all.

(I will add some pics of the larger bed when home)

Sounds like the Steps/MM are off. If it's oval then it's either the Steps or the Slicer. Before trying the Steps, try a different slicer, if you're using Cura, then try Slic3r or something along those lines.. As for the Y Carriage, yeah, it flexes like hell, I have 3 of them now, and I need to replace the carriages. Looking at this to replace them all, as I have no access to a CNC or someone who can do it for me. As for not being able to move it, it's just a matter of turning the current up on the stepper driver.

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 01/11/2016 04:44PM by Ax.

Quote
Ax


As for the Y Carriage, yeah, it flexes like hell, I have 3 of them now, and I need to replace the carriages. Looking at this to replace them all, as I have no access to a CNC or someone who can do it for me. As for not being able to move it, it's just a matter of turning the current up on the stepper driver.

I am about to do the same thing to mine now that I've upgrade the hotend to an e3d.

I didn't like the idea of the y axis limit switch being on the bed. So I had moved it to the back part of the printer next to the motor.
But with the aluminum not being cut out the same I had to print an angle bracket so I can mount the limit switch further back.

Anyway.. I got this one here off eBay. I've had it a week getting rdy to make the change, it's actually not that bad at all and is fairly flat. And is 3mm thick. It is way more rigid then I thought it would be.
For 20$ I almost can't machine it for that price. Even for me.

[www.ebay.com]

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/13/2016 01:16PM by Wes78.

Postage to the UK on that is horrendous, but I've just had a look and found a 3mm thick plate from Australia which worked out cheaply so I've bought 3 (for my 3 Migbots) for around £50 including postage.

Quote
Ax
Postage to the UK on that is horrendous, but I've just had a look and found a 3mm thick plate from Australia which worked out cheaply so I've bought 3 (for my 3 Migbots) for around £50 including postage.

Could you please post the link to the plates? I'm in Australia and would like to get one. Thanks!

Quote
MigMic

Quote
Ax
Postage to the UK on that is horrendous, but I've just had a look and found a 3mm thick plate from Australia which worked out cheaply so I've bought 3 (for my 3 Migbots) for around £50 including postage.

Could you please post the link to the plates? I'm in Australia and would like to get one. Thanks!

Sorry, should have posted the link.. [www.ebay.co.uk]

Thanks.

For you guys that got or might get the alum plate, Just a heads up
I went to put mine on last night and the distance between the bearing blocks is a wee bit different...(the distance between the smooth rods isnt the same)
SOOOO looks like ill be putting this on my CnC mill and slotting some holes ill post pics later of the mod,


didn't feel like modding the pictures to post them here so here they are thru drop box

[www.dropbox.com]

[www.dropbox.com]

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 01/13/2016 12:18PM by Wes78.

Quote
Wes78
For you guys that got or might get the alum plate, Just a heads up
I went to put mine on last night and the distance between the bearing blocks is a wee bit different...(the distance between the smooth rods isnt the same)
SOOOO looks like ill be putting this on my CnC mill and slotting some holes ill post pics later of the mod,


didn't feel like modding the pictures to post them here so here they are thru drop box

[www.dropbox.com]

[www.dropbox.com]

Depends on the type of carriage, the one I linked above, I can't say as yet as to whether it'll fit, but I've 3 on the way to the UK. So I'll let people know as soon as I have them..

I NEED HELP!!!! OK so i started having issues with my migbot prusa i3. I thought the power supply that came with my kit had just crapped out, so i ordered a replacement, when it came in i hooked it up and in the process of heating everything to do a test print the LED on the power supply started to blink. Unhooked everything and found it to only happen while trying to heat the bed. I figured it was the bed that went bad so i ordered a new bed, it came in yesterday so i hooked it up and tried again. Same damn thing, unhooked the bed thermister and the LED did not blink, so i swapped out the thermister with a new one and when trying to heat the bed the LED blinks. So there is obviously something wrong with the board. So my question is, is there a way around this? If not, am i better off trying to order a replacement MKS Base v1.3? or getting an Arduino? If my best bet is the Arduino, where do i get all of the electronics to go with it to ensure my printer will run correctly? Still kind of new to the electronics side of the printers. Thanks in advance for any help.