Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread

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Wes78
Do you have another PC or laptop you can try it on?

Do you get the sound from your pc, When you plug it in, like you do with other devices?

It going from com3. To com4. Did you change what USB you were plugged in to?

With the printer powered off. (Unplugged from 110) When you plug in via USB. Dose the ldc light up?

I have tried this on two different computers having exactly the same results.

Yes it gives the USB connect sound.

Exactly the same USB port on both PC's.

Yes the LCD lights up when connected to USB and power off (240V over here )

I have ordered another board as it's the only thing I can think of having tried everything else.
If that doesn't work I have no idea what to do.

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IBaz

Quote
Wes78
Do you have another PC or laptop you can try it on?

Do you get the sound from your pc, When you plug it in, like you do with other devices?

It going from com3. To com4. Did you change what USB you were plugged in to?

With the printer powered off. (Unplugged from 110) When you plug in via USB. Dose the ldc light up?

I have tried this on two different computers having exactly the same results.

Yes it gives the USB connect sound.

Exactly the same USB port on both PC's.

Yes the LCD lights up when connected to USB and power off (240V over here )

I have ordered another board as it's the only thing I can think of having tried everything else.
If that doesn't work I have no idea what to do.

Buh, yup, Banjaxed. Although at this point, I'd stay away from the MKS Base. It's not very well supported and I'm getting issues with one of my printers, temps are all over the place at points and the Z Sensor stops working, I know the wiring's good, so I'll prob end up getting a RAMPS/Arduino set up, even though I hate the frickin' stacked boards, to keep me going. I'd love to get a RaMBO but they're a little outta my range atm.

Azteeg X3 for me can run up to 8 steppers and can do 1/128 micro stepping..with the SureStepr SD6128 Stepper driver, and the best part... MADE IN U.S.A! $109.99

[www.panucatt.com]

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Ax

Quote
AccidentalWisdom
So, I've got my printer up and running (sort of), got my first two (semi)successful test prints out, along with a few failures.Printed this thing. Even the two that printed have the same problem as those that didn't - the piece is not adhering to the bed well. Most of the prints get to a few layers and then were pulled from position, dragged around with the nozzle

On the two that printed fully, the adhesion was just enough to withstand the printing, but the bottom of the piece is terrible and the edges all the way up are jagged (like a spinal cord effect), while the sides are actually quite impressively nice. When the print was done, I was able to pull it off the bed immediately with my fingers with almost no resistance.

Using Cura, all layers were at .2 mm. Used hairspray for one and Elmer's glue stick on the other, both seemed to work equally well. Initial layer speed at 15, then at 30 for other layers. Fan speed at 60 (weirdly, my nozzle fan doesn't seem to trigger until I manually spin it once with a finger).

I think the real problem is that the initial layer is printing too high. At .2 mm as the filament comes out it is suspended in the air and pulled down by gravity. When the nozzle turns a corner the filament gets dragged in that direction before laying on the bed, so instead of all 90 degree angle I'm getting some 75 degree angles, creating just a mess on the first couple layers. After the first couple layers, when there is a bed of PLA to stick to, the rest of the layers print nicely (aside from the spinal cord effect on the edges).


Question 1: Should I be setting the initial layer so that the filament is actually slightly squishing against the bed?

Question 2: When my printer begins printing, it does not print in the center of the bed (even though in Cura the item is centered). Both the X and Y Axises seem to think the bed size if 5" x 5", instead of 8" x 8". Last I looked at the firmware I believe I saw some offset lines, I understand that I can change those. Is that all I need to do on this - just try to find the perfect combination of offsets to tell it where center is?

Question 3: I want an auto-leveler! I have the Migbot Prusa i3 (obviously, since I am here, haha). Can I get suggestions on the best proximity sensor to use (I've seen two types: this and that)? What about Inductive vs Non-Inductive? And also, for the type you suggest, can you provide a link or STL for a mount that would work on my Migbot? I searched Thingiverse a bit but didn't find any mounts that seemed to look like they would fit.

1) yup, Squishy is good.. Think Dory from Finding Nemo
2) That'll be my firmware, which I assume you're still using, I need to sort the small bed version for someone anyways so give me a day or so and I'll send you the config.h file.
3) Get this one. It's what comes with the auto level kit. The mount is on the firmware repo here, I'm assuming you're on the MK8 so that mount'll be the right one. However, if you want the round one, check Tom's Guide on auto levelling, that'll tell you how to set it up.

Thanks, Ax and Evetanlm!

1. Haha, ok, Dory it is. I fixed things up with my Z Limit a bit in a 15 minute free period I had last night and the results were definitely a bit better. Until I get that proximity sensor I will have to make some manual adjustments here and there, I suppose.

Follow-up - If I offset the Z Axis by -.2, and then always print my Initial Layer at .3, would that be good? I hear a lot of people keep the Z Axis unlocked and manually adjust the rods at the beginning of the print.

2. Yes, still using your firmware, its great! I flashed it once more, making my E Axis a bit more accurate, worked well. Definitely appreciate the help with the Configuration.H, whenever you get it done!

3. Alright, I will grab that one for starters. Your firmware is already set up with the coding for auto-level. So if I get that piece and the sensor and hook it up, all I need to do is simply reactivate the auto-level define code in your firmware? Or will adjustments possibly be needed.

deleted

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/29/2016 12:05PM by Wes78.

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AccidentalWisdom


Follow-up - If I offset the Z Axis by -.2, and then always print my Initial Layer at .3, would that be good? I hear a lot of people keep the Z Axis unlocked and manually adjust the rods at the beginning of the print.

There is a setting in cura that you can tell it how thick you want your first layer
using that set your hotend tip off the bed by the thickness of a sheet of paper

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/29/2016 11:13AM by Wes78.

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Wes78

Quote
AccidentalWisdom


Follow-up - If I offset the Z Axis by -.2, and then always print my Initial Layer at .3, would that be good? I hear a lot of people keep the Z Axis unlocked and manually adjust the rods at the beginning of the print.

There is a setting in cura that you can tell it how thick you want your first layer
using that set your hotend tip off the bed by the thickness of a sheet of paper

Hey, Wes, yeah this is the setting I am talking about, Initial Layer Thickness or Bottom Layer Thickness (forget the exact title, not at home right now). When I set this to .3 mm, for example, the printing starts at .3 mm height on the Z Axis, but the filament doesn't get squished to the bed, it just comes out into the open air and is pulled down by gravity, creating those terrible first layers because when a corner is turned the filament is still suspended in the air - it drags the filament in the direction of the turn before it can hit the bed and adhere.

The nozzle opening should be contracting/expanding based on this thickness setting, right? If I set this at .1 mm, the filament coming out should be .1 mm in diameter and if I change this to .3 mm, the nozzle opening should expand to allow .3 mm of diameter to flow through, right? Perhaps this is a problem in my printer - maybe there is a blockage in my nozzle that doesn't allow the filament to go beyond a certain diameter?

the Initial Layer Thickness needs to be between 70-80 % of the other layers, I.e .3 layers Initial Layer between .210-.250

the diameter of the filament is set buy the diameter of your tip your using. adding more or less flow% can change that. but its meant to be .4mm or what ever size tip your using

it sounds to me that if you send you z to Z0.0 it isnt with in the .004" (.1mm) of an inch from the bed like it needs to be

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 01/29/2016 12:47PM by Wes78.

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Wes78
the Initial Layer Thickness needs to be between 70-80 % of the other layers, I.e .3 layers Initial Layer between .210-.250

the diameter of the filament is set buy the diameter of your tip your using. adding more or less flow% can change that. but its meant to be .4mm or what ever size tip your using

it sounds to me that if you send you z to Z0.0 it isnt with in the .004" (.1mm) of an inch from the bed like it needs to be

Hmm, I will look more closely at this. Last night I adjusted this so that when I send the Z Axis to 0.00 in the center of the bed, I just barely feel the nozzle applying pressure against a standard sheet of printer paper. I did this before, also, but it seemed to have moved up (enough to fit several pieces of paper under). Maybe the Z Limit switch traveled upward from printer vibration? I will try to tighten the bolts more. This is why I am just getting an auto-leveler ASAP, haha.

be sure and check it after you home it out, so youll know how much its off from z0.0

Ok guys, I've just worked through the firmware a little and produced 4 Configuration.h files based on my version of the firmware with my tweaks. Note: I don't have the 210x210 bed, so I can't test it, although it should work, going by 2 people I know of using a quickly hacked together version of my Config for the 210x210. You'll need the version of Marlin that's in the folder and the respective Configuration.h. You'll need to PID tune and Calibrate the extruder, but asides from that you should be good to go. Without further ado, here's the link: [www.dropbox.com]

Anybody have a good source for the screws, washers and nuts for the Migbot? Looking for the Hex type Socket Cap head in silver color, if possible. I found www.mscdirect.com, but can't find 8 or 20 mm M5s on there.

Looking for at least the following:

M3 screws in 8, 12, 16 and 20 mm
M3 nut
M3 washer

In fact, anybody have a list of all the components that came with the original? I received my kit in an already opened box that was sitting in a friend's workspace for months - missing all the packing, everything was loose.

EDIT: Originally post said I needed M5s, but changed to M3s - that is what my printer uses primarily. Sorry for any confusion!

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/30/2016 04:36PM by AccidentalWisdom.

Quote
AccidentalWisdom
Anybody have a good source for the screws, washers and nuts for the Migbot? Looking for the Hex type Socket Cap head in silver color, if possible. I found www.mscdirect.com, but can't find 8 or 20 mm M5s on there.

Looking for at least the following:

M5 screws in 8, 12, 16 and 20 mm
M5 nut
M5 washer

In fact, anybody have a list of all the components that came with the original? I received my kit in an already opened box that was sitting in a friend's workspace for months - missing all the packing, everything was loose.

A really good place to get "screwed"

Hi, would you mind to post your migbot as mine migbot i never saw any m5 screw before so there maybe some difference.

Hello all. I have had my Electron 3D Sixth Generation Prusa i3 with Auto Leveling and the large bed option for about 3 weeks. It took me some time to get it together and I did run into several of the problems described in this forum, but nothing was a real show stopper. They sent me the wrong lenght smooth rods and threaded rod for the large bed kit as they were 20mm short of 400mm as called out in the intructions. I was able to get it together and get it working and made a couple of really nice prints right off the bat. I got a little over jealous and tried to print a large piece for a buddy of mine who is building a robot. The print took about 8 hours and I ran it overnight. When I got up in the morning it was about half there and noodles everywhere on one side. The filament had bound up on the overhead mount I had made and long story short burned up the extruder motor. Moral of the story, DON"T LEAVE YOUR PRINTER UNATTENDED!!! Hard lesson to learn.

I went down today to sparkfun and picked up 5 new steppers (https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10846) they are .9 degree 400 steps/revolution and I have them installed and they seem to fit and I hope they will be a good upgrade from the ones that came with the printer. I have been reading up on how to set them up and wanted to get the firmware flashed to support them, but I am to much of a newb to really get what the settings should be. I was trying to reverse engineer what has been posted in the standard large bed config.h files from Ax, but the numbers don't seem to match up. Should I just double the values for the DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT for all axis or is there more to it than that?

Any help would be appreciated. And thanks in advance. I woudn't have gotten as far as I have without all the great help and advice on thsi forum and really appreciate all of your efforts.

if you wanted to change a stepper it's not a really easy task, it may seem easy, as their are a few things you need to take notes:

1.) you have to check your motherboard current, as one part is change the current may change and motherboard may not be able to handle, don't think power bigger better, think whether is it neccessary.
2.) after you attach you have to test the heat on your stepper if it is too hot you may get burn and that mean current too big, solution: tune the screw on your stepper driver, 1/8 tune way to get the right move with no sound and no burn heat.
3.) for problem it would be better to use the supplier one as they are the one design it would be wise to get from them, but like we all here is because supplier didn't do a good job in the program and etc.... writing program is never easy, wise word get from supplier, if can't then you have a long list of things to do.

Quote
cgriff
Hello all. I have had my Electron 3D Sixth Generation Prusa i3 with Auto Leveling and the large bed option for about 3 weeks. It took me some time to get it together and I did run into several of the problems described in this forum, but nothing was a real show stopper. They sent me the wrong lenght smooth rods and threaded rod for the large bed kit as they were 20mm short of 400mm as called out in the intructions. I was able to get it together and get it working and made a couple of really nice prints right off the bat. I got a little over jealous and tried to print a large piece for a buddy of mine who is building a robot. The print took about 8 hours and I ran it overnight. When I got up in the morning it was about half there and noodles everywhere on one side. The filament had bound up on the overhead mount I had made and long story short burned up the extruder motor. Moral of the story, DON"T LEAVE YOUR PRINTER UNATTENDED!!! Hard lesson to learn.

I went down today to sparkfun and picked up 5 new steppers (https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10846) they are .9 degree 400 steps/revolution and I have them installed and they seem to fit and I hope they will be a good upgrade from the ones that came with the printer. I have been reading up on how to set them up and wanted to get the firmware flashed to support them, but I am to much of a newb to really get what the settings should be. I was trying to reverse engineer what has been posted in the standard large bed config.h files from Ax, but the numbers don't seem to match up. Should I just double the values for the DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT for all axis or is there more to it than that?

Any help would be appreciated. And thanks in advance. I woudn't have gotten as far as I have without all the great help and advice on thsi forum and really appreciate all of your efforts.

Ok, for the steps, you need to use the Prusa Calculator the standard steppers are 1.8 degree.. which means the numbers are well out. You will need to count the teeth on the pulleys, looking at it, they seem to be 20 tooth, to get the correct steps for the X & Y and the steps for the Z should be around 800. So effectively you could double the steps, but it's better to be safe than sorry so check it to make sure. Effectively tthe steps should be as follows:

#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT   {160,160,796.539914,110.367693597}

However, check them, they may be out with the new stepper motors.

@evetanlm - I'd sort of disagree with it not being easy, I go for the leave the stepper drivers as default unless something is awry, as long as the voltage spec on the Stepper is similar, and the stepper isn't missing steps, it should be fine, you really only need to adjust the voltage on the drivers should they be missing steps looking at the steppers @cgriff linked, they're the same or very similar voltage to the originals, so the drivers shouldn't need adjusting.

As for leaving the printer unattended, I do it all the time with my 3. However, I do have cameras and remote software to kill the print should I need to.

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Ax
Ok guys, I've just worked through the firmware a little and produced 4 Configuration.h files based on my version of the firmware with my tweaks. Note: I don't have the 210x210 bed, so I can't test it, although it should work, going by 2 people I know of using a quickly hacked together version of my Config for the 210x210. You'll need the version of Marlin that's in the folder and the respective Configuration.h. You'll need to PID tune and Calibrate the extruder, but asides from that you should be good to go. Without further ado, here's the link: [www.dropbox.com]

Quick note, if your extruder stops working on the firmware, there's 2 pins.h files, rename the pins.h file that's there, and then rename pins.h.bak to pins.h, I forgot I reversed the pins for a friend whose E0 stepper driver was b0rked. It's now fixed, just thought I'd mention it after working out what happened with @AccidentalWisdom..

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evetanlm
Hi, would you mind to post your migbot as mine migbot i never saw any m5 screw before so there maybe some difference.

I don't know where I got M5 from, my printer actually uses M3s and a couple M4s. Sorry for the misleading post!

I've got what may be a really stupid question but here goes. If you use a glass plate, does it have to be placed against the heating plate or can, (or should) there be a gap? There, I've done it. I've posted my stupid question.

Jeff

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 01/30/2016 07:15PM by Canadian Geek.

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Canadian Geek
I've got what may be a really stupid question but here goes. If you use a glass plate, does it have to be placed against the heating plate or can, (or should) there be a gap? There, I've done it. I've posted my stupid question.

Jeff

No question is stupid, if you can't work it out, then it's worth asking. You want heat to be transferred well, so glass needs to be on the heater with no gap.

hi all
i am really new in 3d printing and this 36 page thread was helpful to understand a lot of things thanks too the knowledge of some members , who are willing to help too.
i have bought one electron - migbot 3d printer(standard-bed without auto bed levelling as i knew i could do it paying less) from the known on-line store with the known quality and customer support.
before buying the printer i contacted them and they replied me back in the day and when i got my printer and opened the box i saw that printed parts were not black but coloured and bad printed(wrapped) and one part was cracked ,i send them a mail only mentioning the cracked part and not the coloured and wrapped pieces and didn't get any response from them as usually.
as i didn't get any response for the cracked part i glued it and decided to assembly my printer so i connected my sd card on my pc and nothing was there. emailed them again but got a response a week later.so waiting for the response i had to find more information about this printer so i found this forum.
got my printer assembled tested bed and hot end was heating homed all axis worked all fine levelled the bed with the nozzle and inserted a file to the sd card with a g code and card was seen when inserted but couldn't see any files inside the card. (find out weeks later that with another sd card printer can see the files but haven't printed from the sd card yet)
so i used repetier to connect with my printer did the settings and all went fine.
as calibration is the first thing we have to do first i find out my extruder steps to work right but i cant store them permanently no option on printer and can't save them from repetier either(no eeprom functions enabled in marlin) and decided to flash the board.
with no board connected to pc when i try to verify files from here (sellers link) in arduino i get a an error only with the standard bed configuration.h file the rest work without error
inside the zip file from the previous link there is a pdf with instuctions and has a link for these files they are from the same author
also have read this and Ax has shared his files here
my printer is working ok with the settings i got i want only to enable the eeprom function for now and when i get my sensor to enable it then.
as things work ok with stock version i would like to try it again but get error when verifying the file. Ax's files are verified but i have seen that he has done some modifications on his printer and don't know if it will work with my stock printer . i am new in 3d printing and knowledge is growing while reading but don't feel confident doing things that i don't know.
any help would be appreciated and this is one of the problems i am facing with. sorry for my English guys, its not my native language

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insanegr
hi all
i am really new in 3d printing and this 36 page thread was helpful to understand a lot of things thanks too the knowledge of some members , who are willing to help too.
i have bought one electron - migbot 3d printer(standard-bed without auto bed levelling as i knew i could do it paying less) from the known on-line store with the known quality and customer support.
before buying the printer i contacted them and they replied me back in the day and when i got my printer and opened the box i saw that printed parts were not black but coloured and bad printed(wrapped) and one part was cracked ,i send them a mail only mentioning the cracked part and not the coloured and wrapped pieces and didn't get any response from them as usually.
as i didn't get any response for the cracked part i glued it and decided to assembly my printer so i connected my sd card on my pc and nothing was there. emailed them again but got a response a week later.so waiting for the response i had to find more information about this printer so i found this forum.
got my printer assembled tested bed and hot end was heating homed all axis worked all fine levelled the bed with the nozzle and inserted a file to the sd card with a g code and card was seen when inserted but couldn't see any files inside the card. (find out weeks later that with another sd card printer can see the files but haven't printed from the sd card yet)
so i used repetier to connect with my printer did the settings and all went fine.
as calibration is the first thing we have to do first i find out my extruder steps to work right but i cant store them permanently no option on printer and can't save them from repetier either(no eeprom functions enabled in marlin) and decided to flash the board.
with no board connected to pc when i try to verify files from here (sellers link) in arduino i get a an error only with the standard bed configuration.h file the rest work without error
inside the zip file from the previous link there is a pdf with instuctions and has a link for these files they are from the same author
also have read this and Ax has shared his files here
my printer is working ok with the settings i got i want only to enable the eeprom function for now and when i get my sensor to enable it then.
as things work ok with stock version i would like to try it again but get error when verifying the file. Ax's files are verified but i have seen that he has done some modifications on his printer and don't know if it will work with my stock printer . i am new in 3d printing and knowledge is growing while reading but don't feel confident doing things that i don't know.
any help would be appreciated and this is one of the problems i am facing with. sorry for my English guys, its not my native language

My firmware will work, it's just a matter of PID tuning and Calibrating the extruder, they're designed to work with the stock Migbot, I've just reverse engineered a lot of it to move it back to stock. The main thing that has changed is acceleration, I've slowed it down considerably. Personally, after having quickly looked at the EEPROM, it's better to just flash the firmware. I'm going to need to look at it more, but if you don't know what you're doing with it, you can seriously screw things up. As for the stock firmware, after having looked at the configuration, it's junk. Acceleration and a few other bits are far to high. I've spent many an hour sorting the quality of my 3, so I know the settings in my configuration work. The 200x200 no auto level is being used by a couple of people and I know it works fine, although I can't work out why it's insisting on printing off centre, I may need to check the nozzle offsets. Personally I'd say use my version as you're much more likely to get a better print off of it over the stock settings.

As for your SD Card, it may not be formatted correctly, a re-format of the card to FAT32 will sort it out. If you need any help at all, please just ask or poke me directly. I know how daunting it is to start off with, I started with a Junk CTC Replicator and moved on to the Migbots, which are much more configurable with Marlin Firmware than a CTC with Sailfish Firmware (Sailfish won't work on a Prusa btw), but if you need anything, just yell.

hi Ax thanks for your help. i have no doubt that your firmware doesn't work well but i wanted to clear things out in my head and your answer did it.
have seen your 3 printers working i was impressed so your firmware will be flashed to my board. so you prefer flashing board when making changes instead of saving it on the printer with eeprom enabled? i know i can screw things up as my knowledge is limited but i think it a bit easier doing some fine tuning.without a pc.
with the sd card the very first thing was to format it but no joy i even formatted it with my photo machine as the card that worked properly was the machines card.
will flash my board with your firmware and will report back.
one other thing my power supply is measured at 12v when square fan running and when i turn heat on bed and nozzle drops down to 11.5v cables from psu to board are not the stock ones. do i need a replacement or can i tune it from the screw. i have a HP DPS-600PB PSU for another project that i can test with.i know that i can use a ssr-25dd relay but cant find it locally and need to get online. in your video you mention using a mosfet instead of a relay. is this what you are talking about? can you share more about it so i can make one till i get the relay?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/31/2016 03:00PM by insanegr.

Hi Ax,

I'm using your firmware. Very cool. I love the screens. One problem I'm having is on my Electron i3, 1 click (when rotating the dial) equals 2 screens. It's driving me nuts. What is the setting in configuration.h to fix this.

Thanks in advance,
Jeff

Mosfets - [www.youtube.com] - Tom strikes again. Bear in mind that you'll need to find a N Channel 'fet that switches at 12v and not 5v as in the video. The MKS base isn't like a RAMPS setup where you can tap the switching pin.

PSU - So you've taken a Mutlimeter to the PSU when idle and it reads 12v but it drops by half a volt when running, personally I'd say the PSU isn't working properly and it may be best to swap it out. The HP Server PSU should work without an issue, there are plenty of people out there using a Computer PSU to provide power to the printer, plus with the option of a board you can get from E3D, you can use the ATX functionality too. Although a 20w LED PSU is pretty cheap, so you have your options.

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Canadian Geek
Hi Ax,

I'm using your firmware. Very cool. I love the screens. One problem I'm having is on my Electron i3, 1 click (when rotating the dial) equals 2 screens. It's driving me nuts. What is the setting in configuration.h to fix this.

Thanks in advance,
Jeff

Ah must have dragged the firmware from Aten, the Orange printer. I was digging around and found that. As for the rotary control, I'll have a dig, I've seen it somewhere, but I can't remember where.

Right, you're looking for the following:

//#define ENCODER_PULSES_PER_STEP 1 // Increase if you have a high resolution encoder
//#define ENCODER_STEPS_PER_MENU_ITEM 5 // Set according to ENCODER_PULSES_PER_STEP or your liking

Have a play with those and get it to your liking.

::Edit::
Also found how to fix something that was bugging me with the new Migbot, the encoder on both the Black and Orange ones goes to the right, the new one (Blue) goes to the left. Quick change in pins.h and we're away. For reference it's the following:

#ifdef REPRAP_DISCOUNT_SMART_CONTROLLER
#define BEEPER 37

#define BTN_EN1 33 // 31 reverse
#define BTN_EN2 31 // 33
#define BTN_ENC 35

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/31/2016 05:49PM by Ax.

Also, If you lot get bored and want to stare at printers or see what I'm printing you can check my Printers out at [www.sledz-uk.co.uk]

There's currently a couple of enclosures going, which are tests of a design I put together yesterday and the plastic parts for my CoreXY project. Yes, they're pink, deal with it.

Quote
Ax
Also, If you lot get bored and want to stare at printers or see what I'm printing you can check my Printers out at [www.sledz-uk.co.uk]

There's currently a couple of enclosures going, which are tests of a design I put together yesterday and the plastic parts for my CoreXY project. Yes, they're pink, deal with it.

LOL, I have IP cameras facing mine also. I only have one printer right now. I bolted it down to some melamine (http://www.rona.ca/en/house-construction/wood-panels/melamine-panels) and put it into my CNC router enclosure. Woe is the day I want to use the CNC router and the printer at the same time. The enclosure is vented outside so printing ABS isn't a problem. This is all in my basement and it keeps - she who must be obeyed - happy.

Jeff

Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 01/31/2016 07:12PM by Canadian Geek.