Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread

Canadian Geek
I have attached 3 pictures

E'nin,

Don't suppose anyone has the STL for the mechanical Z Endstop? I've been right through the thread and pulled down the STL files I could find here but there doesn't seem to be a file for it. Been banging my head against a brick wall with the Auto-Levelling and have given up and have just been using the sensor as an endstop recently, so tbh, it's probably better to go for a standard mechanical endstop. Don't have time to faff with it atm as it's constantly running and I have other work to do. There is the option of glass, I just keep forgetting to go to the Glass place on the way to work to get it..

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Ax
E'nin,

Don't suppose anyone has the STL for the mechanical Z Endstop? I've been right through the thread and pulled down the STL files I could find here but there doesn't seem to be a file for it. Been banging my head against a brick wall with the Auto-Levelling and have given up and have just been using the sensor as an endstop recently, so tbh, it's probably better to go for a standard mechanical endstop. Don't have time to faff with it atm as it's constantly running and I have other work to do. There is the option of glass, I just keep forgetting to go to the Glass place on the way to work to get it..

whats your issue with bed auto levelling ?
as for Z endstop - I was using the 'original' one just fine - hard to adjust but it can be done
and auto levelling just saves time.. e.g. if u need to take bed off to clean etc. now I even don't bother level the bed at all

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 10/07/2015 09:50AM by ansisl.

ansisl

I have auto bed leveling working -- the nozzle goes down to ~0.1mm above the bed in 9 places. When the print starts the nozzle is raised to 1mm above the bed. I know I have something wrong in the firmware but have not found the problem. Do you have any suggestions that would allow me to use the printer with auto bed leveling?

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gwc2795
ansisl

I have auto bed leveling working -- the nozzle goes down to ~0.1mm above the bed in 9 places. When the print starts the nozzle is raised to 1mm above the bed. I know I have something wrong in the firmware but have not found the problem. Do you have any suggestions that would allow me to use the printer with auto bed leveling?

well try playing with Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER

I have
#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 0

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ansisl

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Ax
E'nin,

Don't suppose anyone has the STL for the mechanical Z Endstop? I've been right through the thread and pulled down the STL files I could find here but there doesn't seem to be a file for it. Been banging my head against a brick wall with the Auto-Levelling and have given up and have just been using the sensor as an endstop recently, so tbh, it's probably better to go for a standard mechanical endstop. Don't have time to faff with it atm as it's constantly running and I have other work to do. There is the option of glass, I just keep forgetting to go to the Glass place on the way to work to get it..

whats your issue with bed auto levelling ?
as for Z endstop - I was using the 'original' one just fine - hard to adjust but it can be done
and auto levelling just saves time.. e.g. if u need to take bed off to clean etc. now I even don't bother level the bed at all

Just crappy first layers. Large prints of multiple items could be OK-ish in on place and either too high or too low in others. I've just picked up some glass plates and stuck some copper tape on the probing areas, I'll see what it's like tomorrow when I get back into work. As a heads up though I did a little more digging and found this: [www.thingiverse.com] and this: [www.thingiverse.com]

I have another Electron (Migbot) coming next week without the auto levelling but if the glass works, I'll pony up for a sensor. We shall see.

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Ax

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ansisl

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Ax
E'nin,

Don't suppose anyone has the STL for the mechanical Z Endstop? I've been right through the thread and pulled down the STL files I could find here but there doesn't seem to be a file for it. Been banging my head against a brick wall with the Auto-Levelling and have given up and have just been using the sensor as an endstop recently, so tbh, it's probably better to go for a standard mechanical endstop. Don't have time to faff with it atm as it's constantly running and I have other work to do. There is the option of glass, I just keep forgetting to go to the Glass place on the way to work to get it..

whats your issue with bed auto levelling ?
as for Z endstop - I was using the 'original' one just fine - hard to adjust but it can be done
and auto levelling just saves time.. e.g. if u need to take bed off to clean etc. now I even don't bother level the bed at all

Just crappy first layers. Large prints of multiple items could be OK-ish in on place and either too high or too low in others. I've just picked up some glass plates and stuck some copper tape on the probing areas, I'll see what it's like tomorrow when I get back into work. As a heads up though I did a little more digging and found this: [www.thingiverse.com] and this: [www.thingiverse.com]

I have another Electron (Migbot) coming next week without the auto levelling but if the glass works, I'll pony up for a sensor. We shall see.

have you done steps and extrusion calibration ?

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ansisl

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Ax

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ansisl

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Ax
E'nin,

Don't suppose anyone has the STL for the mechanical Z Endstop? I've been right through the thread and pulled down the STL files I could find here but there doesn't seem to be a file for it. Been banging my head against a brick wall with the Auto-Levelling and have given up and have just been using the sensor as an endstop recently, so tbh, it's probably better to go for a standard mechanical endstop. Don't have time to faff with it atm as it's constantly running and I have other work to do. There is the option of glass, I just keep forgetting to go to the Glass place on the way to work to get it..

whats your issue with bed auto levelling ?
as for Z endstop - I was using the 'original' one just fine - hard to adjust but it can be done
and auto levelling just saves time.. e.g. if u need to take bed off to clean etc. now I even don't bother level the bed at all

Just crappy first layers. Large prints of multiple items could be OK-ish in on place and either too high or too low in others. I've just picked up some glass plates and stuck some copper tape on the probing areas, I'll see what it's like tomorrow when I get back into work. As a heads up though I did a little more digging and found this: [www.thingiverse.com] and this: [www.thingiverse.com]

I have another Electron (Migbot) coming next week without the auto levelling but if the glass works, I'll pony up for a sensor. We shall see.

have you done steps and extrusion calibration ?

Yup, couple of times, I may need to do it again to make sure, shouldn't have changed, but it was moved to somewhere a lot cooler (from home to an industrial unit) so environmental things could also be coming into play. It's been PID tuned as well. As far as I can see, it's just the Z offset combined with a build plate that's not flat, seems to Bow in the middle by about 0.3mm. I've just recalibrated the offset again as I'd zeroed it out for printing without auto levelling. I'll see how it goes in the morning.

I am continuing to have problems using an inductive probe on the Z axis. After G28 completes the tip of the nozzle ends up at 0.88 mm above the bed. I set
#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -0.88

The start g-code is:
G1 Z2 ; lift nozzle so no dragging
G28
G1 Z2 ; lift nozzle

I am printing with a 0.2mm first layer but the nozzle is placed 0.010mm above the bed. Both the printer and Repetier-Host show the height as 0.20.
Something is evading me.
Can anyone shed light on this?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/08/2015 09:45PM by gwc2795.

use:

G92 Z-.1 in your start code. this will lift your nossle with 0.1mm. - is lift postive is down.

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rwijnhov
use:

G92 Z-.1 in your start code. this will lift your nossle with 0.1mm. - is lift postive is down.

Thanks for the pointer

HI, just need help, I'm having some issue and currently as even using SD or change SD and even use laptop, after heat up and going to start the problem restart keep happening. Any advise how to solve the issue?

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evetanlm
HI, just need help, I'm having some issue and currently as even using SD or change SD and even use laptop, after heat up and going to start the problem restart keep happening. Any advise how to solve the issue?

See mb there is a clue in the gcode output.

just to update, there is an issue, i believe all prusa I3 will face, as the coupling jam and cause the Prusa I3 emergency stop, this is the problem i face.

What information is in the log file when it shuts down.

it didn't shut down, it restart itself. if i was not wrong the issue is in the coupling, that are stuck in z axis.

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evetanlm
it didn't shut down, it restart itself. if i was not wrong the issue is in the coupling, that are stuck in z axis.

Are you printing from the computer or a PC. If you print from a PC you can open the log file and see what problem caused the restart.

I have had this printer for roughly 5-6 months, and it has worked pretty well since i got it, until yesterday.

So yesterday i started a print before i left for work, when i got home i had a mess, somewhere along the print something went wrong and the print had shifted to the rear by quite a bit (20-30mm) but the print continued and finished.

I tried printing something last night, and when the print starts you can hear the extruder motor "clicking" i pulled the motor out and clicked extrude, and the motor just clicks, i plugged that motor into the wiring for the "x axis" and it worked fine.

Switched everything back to the way it should be, tried another print, it started fine, then i got a jumbled mess on the lcd display, and the motor started clicking again. i started to eliminate potential problems so i tried 2 versions of Slic3r, pronterface, and Cura. all with the same results, could this be a problem in the firmware? This issues just popped up, i have been printing without issues for 5-6 months.

. If you think it could be a firmware issue, does anyone know where i could find detailed instructions on how to upload new firmware to the printer? I have no experience with this, i do have the Arduino software, but have never really gotten to play with it.

I suppose its possible it could be firmware, but honestly I don't think firmware just stops working unless the whole board gave out. Since it works on the x-axis we know the motor works. It's possible the E0 stepper on the board gave out (a fuse possibly, or something else). The mks board has a second extruder stepper connection for dual extruders. I would try plugging in the extruder motor to the E1 connection. Then, I believe, all you have to do is change the settings in the slicer to use the 2nd extuder. See if that works to help with the trouble shooting.

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kissfan4
I have had this printer for roughly 5-6 months, and it has worked pretty well since i got it, until yesterday.

So yesterday i started a print before i left for work, when i got home i had a mess, somewhere along the print something went wrong and the print had shifted to the rear by quite a bit (20-30mm) but the print continued and finished.

I tried printing something last night, and when the print starts you can hear the extruder motor "clicking" i pulled the motor out and clicked extrude, and the motor just clicks, i plugged that motor into the wiring for the "x axis" and it worked fine.

Switched everything back to the way it should be, tried another print, it started fine, then i got a jumbled mess on the lcd display, and the motor started clicking again. i started to eliminate potential problems so i tried 2 versions of Slic3r, pronterface, and Cura. all with the same results, could this be a problem in the firmware? This issues just popped up, i have been printing without issues for 5-6 months.

. If you think it could be a firmware issue, does anyone know where i could find detailed instructions on how to upload new firmware to the printer? I have no experience with this, i do have the Arduino software, but have never really gotten to play with it.

If it was the board, wouldn't it do it everytime? I just got home and gave it another try, extruded 30mm of filament with no problem, started a print, it started almost immediately and the screen is a jumbled again

Can you post the original Migbot firmware, they are not replying to my emails

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kissfan4
Can you post the original Migbot firmware, they are not replying to my emails

I never received the firmware for my Migbot.
Check the 40mm fan on the left of the extruder. Mine fan quit and it destroyed a lot of parts in the filament feeder. I replaced the fan and just got my printer running today.

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kissfan4
If it was the board, wouldn't it do it everytime? I just got home and gave it another try, extruded 30mm of filament with no problem, started a print, it started almost immediately and the screen is a jumbled again

Oh ok. I didn't read that it was ok some of the time. Have you tried printing from just an SD card? SD card is way more stable and no communication issues.

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kissfan4
Can you post the original Migbot firmware, they are not replying to my emails

I am at work, don't have it on me. But there are several posts in this thread were people posted the original firmware for both the regular bed and extended bed. look back.

Uploading the original firmware is extremely easy, its only changing things in the firmware that become trickly. Its pretty much just Download and install the Arduino IDE. Plug in your board to the PC, make sure its recognized. Run the arduino IDE. Open the Marlin file from the downloaded firmware. Upload. some basic directions here: [reprap.org]

Hi, i have this problem recently, because one of the wire on the stepper motor break.

Auto Bed Leveling produces the following output does it look correct? I ask because the back right side of the bed is problematic for printing the 1st layer.

07:09:28.871 : G29 Auto Bed Leveling
07:12:10.935 : Eqn coefficients: a: 0.00207179 b: -0.00079334 d: -0.27374694
07:12:10.935 : planeNormal x: -0.002072 y: 0.000793 z: 1.000000
07:12:10.935 :
07:12:10.935 : Bed Level Correction Matrix:
07:12:10.935 : +0.999998 +0.000000 +0.002072
07:12:10.935 : +0.000002 +1.000000 -0.000793
07:12:10.935 : -0.002072 +0.000793 +0.999998

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/17/2015 07:46AM by gwc2795.

I had an apostrophe while struggling with loading filament into the printer. You can't see down where the filament goes to see if it is lining up with the hole.

I have seen other extruder setups that have a big open area where the filament goes in to help feed it and make sure everything is lining up.

So, I took the STL of the replacement extruder key, and modified the filament feeder hole so you can look down into it.

I havent printed one yet because my printer is currently printing other things. let me know what you think.

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veaceonee
I had an apostrophe while struggling with loading filament into the printer. You can't see down where the filament goes to see if it is lining up with the hole.

I have seen other extruder setups that have a big open area where the filament goes in to help feed it and make sure everything is lining up.

So, I took the STL of the replacement extruder key, and modified the filament feeder hole so you can look down into it.

I havent printed one yet because my printer is currently printing other things. let me know what you think.

I think it looks very good. Thanks.
Question: what program did you use to modify the original stl? I have not found a way to modify existing stl's.

Does anyone have a stl to make a holder for a LJ12A3-4-Z/BX sensor?

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gwc2795

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veaceonee
I had an apostrophe while struggling with loading filament into the printer. You can't see down where the filament goes to see if it is lining up with the hole.

I have seen other extruder setups that have a big open area where the filament goes in to help feed it and make sure everything is lining up.

So, I took the STL of the replacement extruder key, and modified the filament feeder hole so you can look down into it.

I havent printed one yet because my printer is currently printing other things. let me know what you think.

I think it looks very good. Thanks.
Question: what program did you use to modify the original stl? I have not found a way to modify existing stl's.

You can import them into Sketchup wirh a plugin. I use openSCAD with the import command.

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Ax

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gwc2795

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veaceonee
I had an apostrophe while struggling with loading filament into the printer. You can't see down where the filament goes to see if it is lining up with the hole.

I have seen other extruder setups that have a big open area where the filament goes in to help feed it and make sure everything is lining up.

So, I took the STL of the replacement extruder key, and modified the filament feeder hole so you can look down into it.

I havent printed one yet because my printer is currently printing other things. let me know what you think.

I think it looks very good. Thanks.
Question: what program did you use to modify the original stl? I have not found a way to modify existing stl's.

You can import them into Sketchup wirh a plugin. I use openSCAD with the import command.

I used Sketchup with the STL addon. It works well.