Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread

Quote
Ax
Sounds like the Steps/MM are off. If it's oval then it's either the Steps or the Slicer. Before trying the Steps, try a different slicer, if you're using Cura, then try Slic3r or something along those lines.. As for the Y Carriage, yeah, it flexes like hell, I have 3 of them now, and I need to replace the carriages. Looking at this to replace them all, as I have no access to a CNC or someone who can do it for me. As for not being able to move it, it's just a matter of turning the current up on the stepper driver.

(Sorry for delay and no pics. Had work things take over for a couple days)

Ahh Ok yes. I will have to verify the steps. Print a couple lines and measure them to verify things. Calibration tests.

The big oddity is that it does it on X travel only. SO if I tell it to move the X (in a job function) 100mm.. the y axis creeps around 10mm. Even though there was "no signal" to it.
I have the cura software, and the repetier software. And have sliced with cura and slicer, and in the software they appear "true" But not so much on prints.

I did notice there is a little looseness in the y axis belt, so that may be contributing to it some.

Those carriages above appear a world stiffer than the acrylic thing I had... but since I want to go to a much longer Y travel, and in the not to distant future X travel increase as well.. I feel I need a bit stronger carriage. If I go to a 30 Inch long bed, y travel wise.. I will need some extra rigidity.

I need to check my board to see where the stepper drive voltage pots are, and verify/bump voltages.

Quote
kissfan4
I NEED HELP!!!! OK so i started having issues with my migbot prusa i3. I thought the power supply that came with my kit had just crapped out, so i ordered a replacement, when it came in i hooked it up and in the process of heating everything to do a test print the LED on the power supply started to blink. Unhooked everything and found it to only happen while trying to heat the bed. I figured it was the bed that went bad so i ordered a new bed, it came in yesterday so i hooked it up and tried again. Same damn thing, unhooked the bed thermister and the LED did not blink, so i swapped out the thermister with a new one and when trying to heat the bed the LED blinks. So there is obviously something wrong with the board. So my question is, is there a way around this? If not, am i better off trying to order a replacement MKS Base v1.3? or getting an Arduino? If my best bet is the Arduino, where do i get all of the electronics to go with it to ensure my printer will run correctly? Still kind of new to the electronics side of the printers. Thanks in advance for any help.

Personally, first thing first, check the voltage that the PSU is putting out. Take a multimeter to the positive and negative terminals on the PSU, any rail) and check it's putting out a solid 12v. It could also be the wiring for the bed heater, so it may be worth checking and replacing that.

kissfan4
disconnect one of the bed power leads from the power supply and measure the ohms resistance of the bed heater. The Migbot I have is wired for 12V, Check your MK2 heater wiring to make sure it is wired for 12V not 24V. If it is wired for 24V it will draw too much current.

so after beating my head against the wall with this for the last few days i found the problem. The power supply is only outputting roughly 8.5 amps, i didnt think that it could be the power supply because it is only about a month old, but i was wrong.

Greetings!

So I just put a Migbot Prusa i3 together. Had some issues getting the driver to install, still not certain that it is installed correctly. Below are my two problems (so far):

1. Cura (v15.04.4) cannot find the printer. I tried using the Bed levelling Wizard in Cura, but it fails to establish connection to the printer. The FT232R USB UART device shows in the "Unspecified" section of my Devices and Printers window - there are no icons-layovers indicating an issue with it on this window. In Device Manager, it shows as follows:

Ports (COM & LPT)
USB Serial Port (COM3)

This is how it shows now, after we got the driver to seemingly install "successfully." Before that, it showed with the "!" icon as follows:

Other Devices
FT232R USB UART

I don't know what else to try to get Cura to recognize the printer.


2. When I run the Auto Home function on the printer, one of the following happens (not sure what determines which will happen on any given test):

The X axis moves all the way to the right, hits the piece that holds the rods on the right and begins to grind

The Y axismoves all the way to the front baffle plate and begins to grind.

In both scenarios it seems that the machine thinks there is more space than there really is. It makes me wonder if there are some Area-related settings messed up in the firmware but that is just coming from a thinker without any engineering or 3D Printing background.

Can anyone help me with these please?

Can't help with tge Windows issue, but seems the polarity fir the steppers is wrong, hence when homing it goes the wrong way. Either turn the plugs the other way or change the firmware. I'll get you the exact bit to change when I get home.

Quote
Ax
Can't help with tge Windows issue, but seems the polarity fir the steppers is wrong, hence when homing it goes the wrong way. Either turn the plugs the other way or change the firmware. I'll get you the exact bit to change when I get home.

Thank you for the reaponse, AX. Do you mean that you think I might have the Y Stepper cable plugged into the X slot and the X Stepper cable plugged into the Y slot on the MKS Base? I did try to switch those earlier, and got the same grinding, only in the opposite direction. I'll provide any info you need if you can direct me where to get it for you.

I played with moving each axis manually by going to Prepare > Move Axis. If I manually set (with my hands) where 0.00 is on each axis, I can get to +200.0 on the X and Y axis perfectly. However, if I go above +26.0 on the Z axis, it grinds toward the top. I assume that is just because that axis could be hypothetically never-ending? Unlike the X and Y that cap at +200.00?

Quote
AccidentalWisdom

Quote
Ax
Can't help with tge Windows issue, but seems the polarity fir the steppers is wrong, hence when homing it goes the wrong way. Either turn the plugs the other way or change the firmware. I'll get you the exact bit to change when I get home.

Thank you for the reaponse, AX. Do you mean that you think I might have the Y Stepper cable plugged into the X slot and the X Stepper cable plugged into the Y slot on the MKS Base? I did try to switch those earlier, and got the same grinding, only in the opposite direction. I'll provide any info you need if you can direct me where to get it for you.

I played with moving each axis manually by going to Prepare > Move Axis. If I manually set (with my hands) where 0.00 is on each axis, I can get to +200.0 on the X and Y axis perfectly. However, if I go above +26.0 on the Z axis, it grinds toward the top. I assume that is just because that axis could be hypothetically never-ending? Unlike the X and Y that cap at +200.00?

Sort of, you have them plugged into the wrong ports on the board, make sure they're plugged into the minus X and minus Y, I have a feeling you've plugged them into the positive X and Y.. Sorry wasn't concentrating much above, no firmware jigging needed,.

Quote

Sort of, you have them plugged into the wrong ports on the board, make sure they're plugged into the minus X and minus Y, I have a feeling you've plugged them into the positive X and Y.. Sorry wasn't concentrating much above, no firmware jigging needed,.

Entirely possible, haha. I will check that when I get home tonight. Thanks for your help, I will post back either way in 4 hours or so.

Anyone else have an idea why Cura can't establish a connection with the printer?

Bit of research regarding the Windows Driver, you can get the latest drivers from here You can try that as it will probably be more up to date. If that doesn't work, try this one. Tbh having both won't hurt.

I don't run Windows, I'm a Linux user and all this works out of the box but the above should work.

Quote
AccidentalWisdom

Quote

Sort of, you have them plugged into the wrong ports on the board, make sure they're plugged into the minus X and minus Y, I have a feeling you've plugged them into the positive X and Y.. Sorry wasn't concentrating much above, no firmware jigging needed,.

Entirely possible, haha. I will check that when I get home tonight. Thanks for your help, I will post back either way in 4 hours or so.

Anyone else have an idea why Cura can't establish a connection with the printer?

Personally I have never had any luck using cura with my migbot, once I started using slic3r and pronterface, I have had zero issues.

I been using cura and my prints have been coming out fantastic.
I do know that there is limited settings and using something like slic3r has more settings to it.
I tried using slic3r and default settings and the prints came out horrible.
I'm just now getting to where I understand the settings and how they effect the prints.

Would you mind sharing the settings you use with slic3r?
I would like to try it again as I hear ppl talk all the time about how much better it can be the cura.

Haven't used pronterface yet. I'll give it a go.
I been using repaterhost since I got the printer going. It works but sometimes it's kinda flaky

I also designed and printed a mount to hold an E3d hotend setup using direct drive (from the mk8) and will mount to the existing X carrage. If anyone is interested in it I'd be happy to share

Here's my old Slic3r config bundle - [www.axmod.co.uk] - be aware that I've not used Slic3r for a while now, it worked but tbh, Slic3r is really clunky. I've had much better results with Simplify3D, yes it's a fair chunk to be paying out for a program, but it's so worth it for the quality of the prints.

Thanks I'll give it a try.

Yeah. Simplify3D is definitely on my list to get

Quote
Wes78
I also designed and printed a mount to hold an E3d hotend setup using direct drive (from the mk8) and will mount to the existing X carrage. If anyone is interested in it I'd be happy to share

Sling it up somewhere like Thingiversr, I'll add it to the wiki page..

I was planning to, I need to make a few minor adjustments to it and do a test fit before I do.

I'll let you know when I do. Thanks

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/16/2016 07:22PM by Wes78.

Quote

Sort of, you have them plugged into the wrong ports on the board, make sure they're plugged into the minus X and minus Y, I have a feeling you've plugged them into the positive X and Y.. Sorry wasn't concentrating much above, no firmware jigging needed,.

So I just checked and the problem was that the X and Y Limit Switch plugs were reversed - X was in Y and Y was in X. I had checked only the Motor plugs earlier, not the Limit Switch plugs. After I made this change and rewired everything for a bit more order, the Auto Home process ran successfully.Thank you, AX!

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/16/2016 11:20PM by AccidentalWisdom.

Quote
Ax
Bit of research regarding the Windows Driver, you can get the latest drivers from here You can try that as it will probably be more up to date. If that doesn't work, try this one. Tbh having both won't hurt.

I don't run Windows, I'm a Linux user and all this works out of the box but the above should work.

So I tried both the VCP and the D2XX drivers from FTDIchip. In both cases the driver updated successfully to v2.12.10 (previously on v2.08.28). I was unable to tell the difference between VCP and D2XX - both seemed to do the same thing and the RAR file had the same exact name).

Anyway, neither driver fixed the issue - Cura still can't access the printer, although it still shows in my Devices and Printers as FT232R USB UART.

I can try the programs mentioned by kissfan4 but I get the feeling that the issue is not related to the software. I'm not sure what else to try.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/17/2016 12:09AM by AccidentalWisdom.

AccidentalWisdom
Ports (COM & LPT)
USB Serial Port (COM3)

This is how it shows now, after we got the driver to seemingly install "successfully." Before that, it showed with the "!" icon as follows:



Make sure the baud rate is set to 115200 for successful communication

Quote
AccidentalWisdom

Quote

Sort of, you have them plugged into the wrong ports on the board, make sure they're plugged into the minus X and minus Y, I have a feeling you've plugged them into the positive X and Y.. Sorry wasn't concentrating much above, no firmware jigging needed,.

So I just checked and the problem was that the X and Y Limit Switch plugs were reversed - X was in Y and Y was in X. I had checked only the Motor plugs earlier, not the Limit Switch plugs. After I made this change and rewired everything for a bit more order, the Auto Home process ran successfully.Thank you, AX!

Not a problem. Easy mistake to make, done it myself. I'll be building my 3rd Migbot this week when it arrives. With a few upgrades, they just work and are real work-horses. Think my first one has done in the region of 500 hours printing at least.


As for the Cura issue, sounds like the driver installed correctly, so as gwc2795 says above check the baud rate.

Heres a few pictures of the mount i made to hold the E3d

I made the mods to it just need to print it out and do a test fit, I have about 25 hours of printing lined up before i can get to it tho, so itll be a bit


[www.dropbox.com]


[www.dropbox.com]


[www.dropbox.com]

Quote
Wes78
Heres a few pictures of the mount i made to hold the E3d

I made the mods to it just need to print it out and do a test fit, I have about 25 hours of printing lined up before i can get to it tho, so itll be a bit


[www.dropbox.com]


[www.dropbox.com]


[www.dropbox.com]

Looks good, don't know why I didn't raise mine up higher.. you considered turning the layer fan 90 degrees and adding a second fan for even cooling?

Quote
Ax

Quote
Wes78
Heres a few pictures of the mount i made to hold the E3d

I made the mods to it just need to print it out and do a test fit, I have about 25 hours of printing lined up before i can get to it tho, so itll be a bit


[www.dropbox.com]


[www.dropbox.com]


[www.dropbox.com]

Looks good, don't know why I didn't raise mine up higher.. you considered turning the layer fan 90 degrees and adding a second fan for even cooling?

Thank you! that was one of the main things i wanted was to Utilize the z travel as much as possible
Yes that is something i would like to do, But the Shroud I got off of thingiverse, so i would have to mod it to fit two fans.
Only problem i see right off the bat is getting it to fit under the motor.
However it seem to be doing a pretty good job, the shroud has a nice shape around the tip

[www.thingiverse.com]

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/17/2016 03:35PM by Wes78.

Hi,

have anyone try before the prusa power box have the digital sound coming out from it ??? Anyone ? Any Idea?

AccidentalWisdom

What version of Windows?
Had trouble installing on Win 10.
Am using on Win 7.
Win 10 has driver install issues. There is a work around but am too lazy to do it.

Quote
Putzer
AccidentalWisdom

What version of Windows?
Had trouble installing on Win 10.
Am using on Win 7.
Win 10 has driver install issues. There is a work around but am too lazy to do it.

Hey, Putzer, I am on Windows 7, but all set now with that problem, thanks!

Ax and all, sorry, I meant to come back with an update. I figured it out with everyone's help.. The updated driver is good (thanks, AX). The problem was a complete rookie mistake. I had everything set correctly, including the Baudrate. The problem was that the Serial Port was set to "AUTO" instead of "COM3." Normally I imagine AUTO should work, but perhaps because the printer is listed in Devices and Printers in the "Unspecified" category, Cura didn't know what to make of it without being pointed directly at it.

The printer is now up and running, and I am pretty sure the bed is leveled, the only problem is that I can't seem to get the Z axis proper for printing. This is what I have tried:

Setting the nozzle where I want it with something like business card thickness under it, to the point of being just tight enough for a very slight resistance when I pull the card.

1st try: Pushing the Z Limit Switch up until I hear that "click" and then tightening it there - Extruder nozzle too high.

2nd try: Pushing the Z Limit Switch up until the tip of the metal hinge lightly touches the piece that holds the X Axis motor - Extruder nozzle still too high.

3rd try: Pushing the Z Limit Switch all the way down and just laughing at myself when what I expected to happen did happen - Extruder nozzle pushed right down into the bed and smeared PLA onto it.

One note - it seems odd to me that when it begins printing, the Z Axis begins printing at "000.30." Why wouldn't it start printing at "000.00?"

Anybody have a suggestion on how I can get this Z Axis height just right?

well what you do is..... watch this. it helped me ALOT!

[www.youtube.com]

if you have auto-lvl watch this one too

[www.youtube.com]

Tom has good videos... watch them ....ALL...

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/17/2016 10:31PM by Wes78.

Heya all,
Have a few pics of the larger bed I made up, with the much stiffer carriage.
Also a quick end stop for the y axis, as the switch being on the carriage, it never seemed to have the right distance. SO I measured, and whipped up a quick block with a hole and zip tied it to my Y axis Motor.

Y Axis End stop. Dropbox

Original Table, "Large size" of the electron Migbot.
The number one problem... when the auto leveler tries to run it goes off the back of the table. SO you cant use it all. Dropbox

This is the size difference between tables. The new table is around .5 inches longer on the near end. And as you can see a few inches longer on the far end. Allowing the autolevel sensor to function, AND to be able to use all of the available table. (250mm by 200mm usable print area now) Dropbox

End view of the table and carriage. The table was 5/8 T-6 6061. Milled out to the channel to keep rigidity lengthwise. Carriage was 1/2 inch, but I machined it down a decent amount. It is also 6061. Dropbox

Two pics of the carriage.
I left the thicker edges not only for rigidity, but if I decided to go with larger rails, and or a second bearing on the right side, I wanted to have material to mount wherever needed.
Also the original plan was to add a ballscrew, but I think I will go to a much larger y axis travel so may so something different (but still ballscrew)
Dropbox
Dropbox

Quote
spinracing
Heya all,
Have a few pics of the larger bed I made up, with the much stiffer carriage.
Also a quick end stop for the y axis, as the switch being on the carriage, it never seemed to have the right distance. SO I measured, and whipped up a quick block with a hole and zip tied it to my Y axis Motor.

Y Axis End stop. Dropbox

Original Table, "Large size" of the electron Migbot.
The number one problem... when the auto leveler tries to run it goes off the back of the table. SO you cant use it all. Dropbox

This is the size difference between tables. The new table is around .5 inches longer on the near end. And as you can see a few inches longer on the far end. Allowing the autolevel sensor to function, AND to be able to use all of the available table. (250mm by 200mm usable print area now) Dropbox

End view of the table and carriage. The table was 5/8 T-6 6061. Milled out to the channel to keep rigidity lengthwise. Carriage was 1/2 inch, but I machined it down a decent amount. It is also 6061. Dropbox

Two pics of the carriage.
I left the thicker edges not only for rigidity, but if I decided to go with larger rails, and or a second bearing on the right side, I wanted to have material to mount wherever needed.
Also the original plan was to add a ballscrew, but I think I will go to a much larger y axis travel so may so something different (but still ballscrew)
Dropbox
Dropbox

I made an Y Axis End stop bracket as well, It fits on the back side of the printer over the top of the y axis smooth rod hole.
when its homed its hit the switch on the edge of the black carriage (or alum if you have it)

Anyway it might work better for you as Its bolted to the printer, when i get home ill post pic.
If you or anyone else interested in it ill post the stl file on thingiverse