Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread

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Ax

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veaceonee
I have a developing issue that I hope you can help me with.

I have been beautifully for a while now. Now all of a sudden the rafts won't separate from the prints, (yes I use rafts on PLA prints so I don;t get blue tape mess on the bottom of the items).

I print off the SD card using the same files. Printed an item couple days ago, wonderful. Printed the same item today, and the raft wont separate. Any suggestions as to what is going on?


Thanks in advance.

That's more than likely a filament issue over a printer issue. Check the filament diameter would be the first step..

turns out on of the Z axis nut on one side stripped out completely. To the point I can move the threaded through the nut effortlessly. Awaiting parts.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/15/2016 07:46AM by veaceonee.

A week later and I've solved my issue. Turns out it was the extruder/hotend being all shonky. Got a hexagon hotend + all metal extruder and it seems to be spitting out prints nicely, esp I've managed to get the 20mn cube to print and gotten inaccuracy down to .2mm on all axis. Mind you I had to turn my z speed down to 1 mm/s or it seemed to bind up occasionally.

Printed Marvin and he seemed to come out nice, except for some weird what I'm assuming to be adhesion issues on his feet. I noticed it on marvin first, but it was also on my last cube, but my first cube (on the left) you can see the layers? Any ideas?

The hexagon is a bit to long to work with the default bracket for the auto level sensor, so I'm going to print up one that's longer and see if I can get auto levelling going.

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InsaneCheese
A week later and I've solved my issue. Turns out it was the extruder/hotend being all shonky. Got a hexagon hotend + all metal extruder and it seems to be spitting out prints nicely, esp I've managed to get the 20mn cube to print and gotten inaccuracy down to .2mm on all axis. Mind you I had to turn my z speed down to 1 mm/s or it seemed to bind up occasionally.

Printed Marvin and he seemed to come out nice, except for some weird what I'm assuming to be adhesion issues on his feet. I noticed it on marvin first, but it was also on my last cube, but my first cube (on the left) you can see the layers? Any ideas?

The hexagon is a bit to long to work with the default bracket for the auto level sensor, so I'm going to print up one that's longer and see if I can get auto levelling going.

My E3D mount and sensor holder should work for the Hexagon - [www.thingiverse.com]

Just updated my filament guide, acts as a stand-off for one of the corners of the LCD too.. [www.thingiverse.com]

Just found this thread, a lot of good info. TONS of pages to look through.

Today I changed my firmware to Ax’s configuration file, hoping it would fix some of the issues I had when I originally put my printer together a couple months ago. Unfortunately it did not =(

1. I can NOT get my extruder to begin the print centered on the build plate.
2. Unless I set the software end stop limits to false (#define min_software_endstops false . #define max_software_endstops false) the printer essentially truncates my prints. I’m pretty sure the extruder starting towards the end of the build plate exacerbates the truncation issue.

With the stock firmware, I had my start Gcode manually move close to the center and start the print, which had me printing plenty of things but I had to be careful not to print anywhere close to my bed limits or it would go off the side.
With the same G code now, it doesn’t even travel to the center.
G21 ; mm
G90 ; Absolute pos
G28 ; home all
G1 E10 F90; extrude 10 mm of filament
g1 X100.0 Y60.0 Z2.0 E0.0 ; move to center
g1 z0.0
M117 Goooo

Hope someone can help. =/

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pRO84
Just found this thread, a lot of good info. TONS of pages to look through.

Today I changed my firmware to Ax’s configuration file, hoping it would fix some of the issues I had when I originally put my printer together a couple months ago. Unfortunately it did not =(

1. I can NOT get my extruder to begin the print centered on the build plate.
2. Unless I set the software end stop limits to false (#define min_software_endstops false . #define max_software_endstops false) the printer essentially truncates my prints. I’m pretty sure the extruder starting towards the end of the build plate exacerbates the truncation issue.

With the stock firmware, I had my start Gcode manually move close to the center and start the print, which had me printing plenty of things but I had to be careful not to print anywhere close to my bed limits or it would go off the side.
With the same G code now, it doesn’t even travel to the center.
G21 ; mm
G90 ; Absolute pos
G28 ; home all
G1 E10 F90; extrude 10 mm of filament
g1 X100.0 Y60.0 Z2.0 E0.0 ; move to center
g1 z0.0
M117 Goooo

Hope someone can help. =/

What bed do you have and do you have the auto-level sensor? The large bed may not print totally centrally, it's basically what I use on my 3 but I generally work around it be setting an offset in Simplify3D (My Slicer of Choice). I'll fully admit, that my configs do work and work a lot better than stock, but the Auto Level side of things is, well, hashed together to get the correct probe points as I auto level on Glass.

If you don't have the sensor, then it's just a matter of setting the correct home offsets. Look for the following lines:

// The position of the homing switches
#define MANUAL_HOME_POSITIONS  // If defined, MANUAL_*_HOME_POS below will be used
//#define BED_CENTER_AT_0_0  // If defined, the center of the bed is at (X=0, Y=0)

// Manual homing switch locations:
// For deltabots this means top and center of the Cartesian print volume.
#if ENABLED(MANUAL_HOME_POSITIONS)
  #define MANUAL_X_HOME_POS -17
  #define MANUAL_Y_HOME_POS -41
  #define MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS 0
  //#define MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS 402 // For delta: Distance between nozzle and print surface after homing.
#endif

Work out the correct X & Y values and insert them and then upload, should sort the issue.

As a note, it's best to grab the whole Marlin folder from my configs and put the correct Config in that and upload from that version, as you can cause issues if you use the wrong Marlin version.

I have the 210mm square bed. No sensor. I did use your version of Marlin and the correct config file, as you advise. I’ll try to sort it out with what you’ve said and report back! Thanks!

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/15/2016 03:54PM by pRO84.

Ax,
Should the points inputted be to center or to the corner of my plate?

pRO84,
What motherboard do you have? I can send you mine to try out. I've got one of the electrons btw.

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pRO84
Ax,
Should the points inputted be to center or to the corner of my plate?

Home is the front left of the printer.

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gotswrv
pRO84,
What motherboard do you have? I can send you mine to try out. I've got one of the electrons btw.

Its the MKS Base..1.2 that came with it. The electrons are essentially the same thing right?

Yah, pretty much the same machines. I've got the same board.
I'll swap the z pin back to factory (got a dead pin on my board) and send you my file to try. Got it tweaked so that x110y110 goes to dead center table on a 220mm bed.
I'm on Ax's latest firmware, but with some minor tweaking.

Let us know how this works.. You'll need to fix at least the Z offset, I've got it set at 5mm above the switch (-5). I'd start with some simple G code commands that simply drive to the center of the bed. Like this (for a 220mm bed)
G1 Z25.4 F800
G1 X110 Y110 F3000


That should land you in the center of the bed, it should also be 1" above. Pick a Z height that works, this height with 1-2-3 blocks gets me a rough first height check.
I suggest changing only one thing per flash until you are comfortable with the cause/effect. Nothing worse than changing three things, not remembering which and things going wild. If you'd rather make lots of changes (and I do this a lot) just save as a new version each time.

Thanks for the file. Unfortunately, same result as before. I have no idea whats going on. I tried tweaking a few things, but have no more time tonight to play around. =T

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pRO84
Thanks for the file. Unfortunately, same result as before. I have no idea whats going on. I tried tweaking a few things, but have no more time tonight to play around. =T

Just out of curiosity, what are the pot voltages for the steppers at?

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veaceonee

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pRO84
Thanks for the file. Unfortunately, same result as before. I have no idea whats going on. I tried tweaking a few things, but have no more time tonight to play around. =T

Just out of curiosity, what are the pot voltages for the steppers at?

I can check later on, but I’m not sure that is relevant. I was getting good quality prints, BUT they were never centered on the bed as they should have been. AND my printer was missing its firmware based soft limits because I had to deactivate them to get it to print without truncating my file.

I was hoping Ax’s Marlin and config file would help fix these issues, but now I am not printing at all, for the time being at least.

gotswrv or ax… What is the start Gcode you are having success with?

Copied right outta slic3r


M140 S112 ; set bed temperature doesnt wait
M104 S240 ; set extrude temperature doesnt wait
G91
G1 Z10 F400
G90
G28 X0 Y0 ; home axes
G28 Z0
G1 Z20 F1600
G1 X50 Y50 F3000
M190 S112; set and wait bed temperature
M104 S242 ;doesnt wait extruder
G1 Z 1 F800
M109 S242 ; set and wait for extruder temperature to be reached








My XY position was 110,110 to verify centering position, but I found that it might drool a little bit before it was printing. this is fine from outside the print area, not in the center of the bed.

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gotswrv
Copied right outta slic3r


M140 S112 ; set bed temperature doesnt wait
M104 S240 ; set extrude temperature doesnt wait
G91
G1 Z10 F400
G90
G28 X0 Y0 ; home axes
G28 Z0
G1 Z20 F1600
G1 X50 Y50 F3000
M190 S112; set and wait bed temperature
M104 S242 ;doesnt wait extruder
G1 Z 1 F800
M109 S242 ; set and wait for extruder temperature to be reached








My XY position was 110,110 to verify centering position, but I found that it might drool a little bit before it was printing. this is fine from outside the print area, not in the center of the bed.

Thanks, this helps. I finally got my X and Y offset correct, and used your start code with a couple changes. Also went back to Slic3r. Right away, I was able to print. I like the layout of Cura but it doesn’t seem as though I’ll be able to use it for now.

I was bouncing around with repetier cura and slic3r.. Keep thinking about getting octoprint or fastbot or simplfly, or... I just don't know enough to make a good decision. Really be pissed if I spend big bucks and end up liking slic3r more. Such a strange and wonderful time this is, opensource is certainly going to be a turning point in history. Guess I should just donate to slic3r and ask them to add network support(sure it's in the works already)

Anyway, I keep trying to use cura, it is pretty, but it doesn't seem to get the work done as well.

Glad you are up and going now!

So, quick update, I have the Marlin 1.1 firmware for the Large bed with auto-levelling dead on now. Also for those of you with Auto Levelling, you don't need to use the springs so you can clamp the bed down tight, if you saw my earlier video, I just had it bolted off. I've now created this. Print 4, bolt your bed off and you'll find Auto levelling will work a lot better.

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Ax
So, quick update, I have the Marlin 1.1 firmware for the Large bed with auto-levelling dead on now. Also for those of you with Auto Levelling, you don't need to use the springs so you can clamp the bed down tight, if you saw my earlier video, I just had it bolted off. I've now created this. Print 4, bolt your bed off and you'll find Auto levelling will work a lot better.

What sensor are you using? I've tired of the one that came with it.

Jeff

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Canadian Geek

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Ax
So, quick update, I have the Marlin 1.1 firmware for the Large bed with auto-levelling dead on now. Also for those of you with Auto Levelling, you don't need to use the springs so you can clamp the bed down tight, if you saw my earlier video, I just had it bolted off. I've now created this. Print 4, bolt your bed off and you'll find Auto levelling will work a lot better.

What sensor are you using? I've tired of the one that came with it.

Jeff

The SN-04 NO NPN which is the stock sensor.

OK, sorry for the delay on the firmware, but both Marlin 1.1 large and small bed auto level configs are up on the repo, both are tested, work well and print centrally.

All 1.1 firmware has EEPROM enabled, this means that those with Auto Level can set the Z offset with the following:

M851  Z-0.8
M500

The -0.8 is an example, just set your offset to what it should be. It will also allow one upload and you can change all settings, like E-Steps and PID values via EEPROM commands over having to re-upload the firmware. Enjoy!

Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 02/21/2016 05:13PM by Ax.

Hello guys,

I got the same Kit package from China here [www.ebay.co.uk], however, it came without any instructions from the seller.

I have found you istructables about Migbot Prusa I3 3D Printer. and the viveo [www.youtube.com]

but both are not detailed enough.

So I am wondering could somebody possibly email me the images instructions that should have come with the Kit or let me know where I can download it ? That would be great.

my email is mag8891@gmail.com

many thanks.

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 02/24/2016 11:57AM by Taisiya.

The guy that sold it to you has a github repository [github.com]

There's the instructions that came with mine, but he also added wiring pictures later.

Hope that helps,

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Ax
OK, sorry for the delay on the firmware, but both Marlin 1.1 large and small bed auto level configs are up on the repo, both are tested, work well and print centrally.

All 1.1 firmware has EEPROM enabled, this means that those with Auto Level can set the Z offset with the following:

Ax, thank you so much for this! I uploaded it to my Migbot, did a PID autotune, and quick e-step calibration and it works like a dream - It's printing waaaaay nicer than any of the tweaks I had going before. Only thing i need to change was the X offset from 5 to 15; now it's printing dead center.

Looking forward to any future updates you release, awesome work!

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CAlleman

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Ax
OK, sorry for the delay on the firmware, but both Marlin 1.1 large and small bed auto level configs are up on the repo, both are tested, work well and print centrally.

All 1.1 firmware has EEPROM enabled, this means that those with Auto Level can set the Z offset with the following:

Ax, thank you so much for this! I uploaded it to my Migbot, did a PID autotune, and quick e-step calibration and it works like a dream - It's printing waaaaay nicer than any of the tweaks I had going before. Only thing i need to change was the X offset from 5 to 15; now it's printing dead center.

Looking forward to any future updates you release, awesome work!

You're welcome. I will say, you're not gonna get much speed out of the firmware as due to the acrylic frame, it needs to be low. I think it caps out at around 100-120mm/s but for these printers, it's more than enough.

hello,

Yes, I saw this depository, but shouldn't there be an images instructions?

Did you receive a separate instructions sent with the Kit?

May I ask if you could email me photos/ scans of you instructions and wiring pics please?

my email is mag8891@gmail.com

many thanks.

I got no instructions with my kit. Once I had labored through the assembly the seller sent an email with a link to the instructions. I did offer a negative reply concerning the lack of that same link being on the items sale page description or instructions being included. They seemed quite polite in responding, but the message was they don't really care, too bad for me..
Seems like buying open source clones is a great way to get better with Google. Hunt down the real prusa page and see if there is any instructions there.
At some point I found a folder of step by step pics I had downloaded(think Lego). Might have been from the prusa site.

Does anyone know where to get a quality heating element for the extruder? Ohh, I'm in the US.

Having a lot of issues getting it tuned in. Autotune returns wildly different values from day to day. When everything looks good I cannot make it through a print without a thermal fault. Seems like spending a few extra dollars on the element might be worth the hassle saved.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/25/2016 09:41AM by gotswrv.