Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread

warning: i downloaded the marlin firmware posted by Magiske and it seems fine except, if you are using a glass bed, you need to change the probe points from 3 to 2 in the configuration.h file. i found out the hard way as it tried to probe 9 points and started to smash into the bed. also, it still doesn't center the print on the bed. i mean, wouldn't the coordinates be embedded in the firmware? i also saw someone posted that this firmware was for the large bed. i have the regular bed but so far its working ok.

EDIT: sorry i should have emphasized making the change in the auto leveling section of configuration.h

Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 06/07/2015 07:47PM by rejaak.

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Zurking

Hi MigMic,

what are the advantages of using this latest version? there a list of changes anywhere I can read?

Zurking

Hi Zurking,

Looks like it's just an update for the larger bed (see subsequent posts).

M.

@Ukemaxxer I belive that dumping the FW is a bit overkill since it's = Marlin. And as long as you keep an updated Configuration.h, you should always be good.

I want to thank everyone here for the great posts, downloads and information, this is my first 3d printer so all the help and advice is very much appreciated. I found an instructable by jgschmidt on assembling the Migbot i3 so thought I would post the link if anyone else finds it useful:-

Migbot-I3-3D-Printer-Assembly-and-Use

/Simon

I am also in the process of putting mine together, not done yet. See if you can use some of it. But great link some useful info.

Migbot Ultra Prusa I3 - Putting it all together.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/08/2015 10:15AM by magiske.

Hi Guys,

Thanks, sihorton, for pointing out my instructable above. I wasn't aware this thread existed - it would have helped with some of the issues I faced. I guess everyone here has had some experience with the selective comprehension of the support staff

I tried to order the metal extruder carriage and have not had a response. I'll try that again. If you look at my Instructable you'll see that mine melted because all the printed parts are made from PLA instead of ABS, so beware !

My linear bearings feel like they have sand in them. I've ordered replacements from another supplier and hopefully they'll be better.

I've got everything working, sorta. Two outstanding issues I want to address and perhaps someone here has the answer:

1) The bed takes a verrrry long time to heat up to 100 or 110 for printing ABS. Will a 24V power supply fix this? The board is supposed to support a 24V power supply but I don't know what changes I might have to make to support it. Do I need to adjust the stepper driver pots? That question has been repeatedly misunderstood by the guys in China.

2) The Marlin firmware as currently loaded has many features disabled that I want to turn on, the extruder is not centered, and there are other adjustments I want to make. I saw the post for saving and restoring the original firmware. How do I load a new version of Marlin from my Windows-hosted Arduino IDE? I do have an unused AVR Pocket Programmer and FTDI Basic from Sparkfun in my tool box, if that helps.

Now that I know this thread exists, I'll watch for questions I might be able to answer.

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Jurgen
www.instructables.com/id/Migbot-I3-3D-Printer-Assembly-and-Use
www.jgscraft.com

Centering is something you can adjust in the host software, by editing the START g-code section. I posted my preferred script for this higher up. Essentially, after homing to -25,-55, perform a move to +25, +55 and then set current position to x0 y0 z0 e0

Hehe, I just print additional 2 parts to make the home on bed itself, instead of outside of bed, hope the attachment help!

By the way I download in thingverse actually over there alot of helpful parts. as I'm not a Design person so really like pick and go style

1) The bed takes a verrrry long time to heat up to 100 or 110 for printing ABS. Will a 24V power supply fix this?


What is very long(15 minutes or over an hour). The heat bed should heat up as fast as you supply enough Watts (Watts= Volt x Amps; a 12v 20amp PSU has same power output as a 24v 10 amp PSU).....until your heat bed fails.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/09/2015 06:58AM by tkin.

It takes an hour to heat to 100C. I confirmed the temp with my own lab-type thermocouple thermometer. Each additional degree beyond that seems like a battle. The printer is partially enclosed and I'm using the supplied 12V 20A power supply. Based on other posts here I'll look at the heater board to be sure all loops are working. Any other suggestions? Higher wattage power supply perhaps?

The hot end gets to 250C in a few minutes, but then there is considerably less mass to heat, compared to the alluminum bed.

---

Jurgen
www.instructables.com/id/Migbot-I3-3D-Printer-Assembly-and-Use
www.jgscraft.com

The heating up of the bed is dependant on the resistance value. If resistance is too high, it will not be able to reach temperature, due to being outpaced by the rate of cooling. You should need a value between 1.3 and 1.7 Ohms. That will draw between 7 and 9 amps. If you have an aluminum bed, and want to upgrade, I would recommend a silicone heater with integrated thermistor. Make sure it is for 12 volts

Thanks for the feedback. Measuring shows a bit more than 7A going to my bed.

Looking at 12V silicon heaters, they draw about 16A. I'll clearly need a larger powersupply - it's been on the list for replacement anyway. Does anyone know if the MOSFET on the MKS Base board will handle the higher current?
I assume the largest part next to the heater bed cables is the Mosfet for the heater. Mine is a VS40200ATD and the spec sheet for it rates it at 200A 40V. Just don't know if the traces can handle it.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/09/2015 01:42PM by jgschmidt.

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Jurgen
www.instructables.com/id/Migbot-I3-3D-Printer-Assembly-and-Use
www.jgscraft.com

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jgschmidt
The Marlin firmware as currently loaded has many features disabled that I want to turn on, the extruder is not centered, and there are other adjustments I want to make. I saw the post for saving and restoring the original firmware. How do I load a new version of Marlin from my Windows-hosted Arduino IDE? I do have an unused AVR Pocket Programmer and FTDI Basic from Sparkfun in my tool box, if that helps.

The MKS Base board is basically an Arduino Mega 2560 with an integrated RAMPS shield. You flash new firmware though the onboard USB port just like an Arduino. Just load the firmware source code in the Arduino IDE, edit configuration.h, select Arduino Mega 2560 as your board, and click Upload.

You only need a programmer if you want to read/write using the ICSP header on the board.

Thanks, Invictus. I wasn't sure if the MKS board came with the bootloader or not. Now I can get rid of the Italian(?) greeting

---

Jurgen
www.instructables.com/id/Migbot-I3-3D-Printer-Assembly-and-Use
www.jgscraft.com

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magiske
@Ukemaxxer I belive that dumping the FW is a bit overkill since it's = Marlin. And as long as you keep an updated Configuration.h, you should always be good.

It was more just to keep a backup of the original in case I needed to reinstall it. I've been sent some later code from a migbot contact in Canada. The guy says trust me, once it's installed, you'll not want to go back.
I've not installed it yet as work once again has come between me an my many hobbies.
Keep telling my boss, I don't actually have time to come to work, but he insists I do! Lol

Hi all, firstly let me state that I am as green as they come to 3D printing and having just assembled my very first Migbot I am at a loss as to where to go from here.
Luckily I have stumbled across this thread as there does not seem to be much information out there regarding this machine.
So as stated I have assembled the Migbot and now scratching my head as to how to connect it to my PC and get my very first print. The supplied SD card has what seems like a jumble of files on it that really do mean nothing to me. I don't understand all the jargon and have no idea what to do next. I can connect via USB and the LCD display lights up but get a connection error which I assume I need some sort of driver for. Again in the SD card "driver" folder there is nothing in there that I understand. I dont know which files to use or how to use them. I cannot find any documentation that explains this as eveything I have found assumes I can already speak the jargon.
Hopefully I can find some help in here, many thanks.

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Ukemaxxer

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magiske
@Ukemaxxer I belive that dumping the FW is a bit overkill since it's = Marlin. And as long as you keep an updated Configuration.h, you should always be good.

It was more just to keep a backup of the original in case I needed to reinstall it. I've been sent some later code from a migbot contact in Canada.

Uke, are you able to upload the new version? Would be interesting to see the changes

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tkin
1) The bed takes a verrrry long time to heat up to 100 or 110 for printing ABS. Will a 24V power supply fix this?


What is very long(15 minutes or over an hour). The heat bed should heat up as fast as you supply enough Watts (Watts= Volt x Amps; a 12v 20amp PSU has same power output as a 24v 10 amp PSU).....until your heat bed fails.

You should try with cork isolation mats. Both below the MK2 and on the plate while warming up. Just got some. Will share the data later today/tomorrow.

@magiske

With the original heat bed, soldered to fix a spot that burned out, I heat up from room temp to 100c in 22 minutes. I have some fiberglass under the bed but don't know how much a difference it makes....I think I would be careful with cork/wood.

Cork, wood, cardboard are all fine, but car sunshield from the dollar store is great. Non of these pose a great fire risk at 110°C. Plummer fiberglass shield cloth for sweating copper pipe also works well.

@IBaz
Since you are totally new, I would recommend repetier host, if using Windows or Linux. I can help you set it up offline. Maybe a video would help.

In any case, the files you recieved include a chinese version of the PC control software called Cura. Repetier host, and Pronterface all perform same function.

PM me if you want to set up a time to get online, and go through it.

If anyone is interested in doing a comparison, here is the original Prusa i3, as offered by Joseph Prusa. It is twice the cost, but support is excellent.

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steaneb

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Ukemaxxer

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magiske
@Ukemaxxer I belive that dumping the FW is a bit overkill since it's = Marlin. And as long as you keep an updated Configuration.h, you should always be good.

It was more just to keep a backup of the original in case I needed to reinstall it. I've been sent some later code from a migbot contact in Canada.

Uke, are you able to upload the new version? Would be interesting to see the changes

Links to the latest files I got hold of. Both large and standard bed files.
I haven't installed the file for mine (large bed with auto leveling) as I still have no extruder!

[drive.google.com]

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/10/2015 06:14PM by Ukemaxxer.

Hey guys,

First of all, I am new to actually owning a 3D Printer but have been reading up on them for a while now so I understand most of the lingo. I have fully assembled the Migbot and using the LCD controls everything seems to be working. The problem I am having is getting the driver installed. No matter what I try it will not install. I tried the one provided on the SD card and the one posted on these forums with no success. Has anyone had these problems and could lead me in the right direction. I am running Windows 7 64-bit.

Thanks.

you have to download marlin firm ware and upload it, i would say forget about the SD card as it's not working at all.

SD card will work, but you have to set up the firmware correctly if you downloaded from a source other than the vendor. Stock marlin is not configured for RAMPS or the LCD/SD.

To "wallygator801"

Sounds like Windows doing it's thing again! This might work for you:

1. Try to uninstall and remove the drivers from the device manager.
2. Search for hardware changes.
3. Select the driver manually using the "Have disk" option.
4. Navigate to the "...\Migbot-i3 CD guide assemble(L)\Driver\CDM v2.08.28 Certified" directory
5. Choose the "ftdibus" driver.
6. Then, follow the same procedure to Update the Port driver with the "ftdiport" driver.

Good Luck!

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/11/2015 12:22AM by 3DST.

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wallygator801
Hey guys,

First of all, I am new to actually owning a 3D Printer but have been reading up on them for a while now so I understand most of the lingo. I have fully assembled the Migbot and using the LCD controls everything seems to be working. The problem I am having is getting the driver installed. No matter what I try it will not install. I tried the one provided on the SD card and the one posted on these forums with no success. Has anyone had these problems and could lead me in the right direction. I am running Windows 7 64-bit.

Thanks.

+1 to what 3DST said
That's what I did with mine. Same OS, Windows 7 64 bit. Make sure to check in device manager USB settings, that "allow windows to manage power on this device" is unticked.
Marlin is already installed on the board, however, if you look at my post just before yours, that is a link to the latest version for the migbot. Both files are there, just make sure to use the correct version for the bed size you ordered.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/11/2015 05:08AM by Ukemaxxer.

@ Ukemaxxer / 3DST

Thanks for the response. I have tried to manually install the driver many times as 3DST suggested, but I don't see a port to update the driver with? Also, where do you find the "allow windows to manage power on this device" check box?

THANKS.