Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread)

Quote
hobbes
i'm anxiously awaiting for my 2020 prusa to arrive, today. Bought from Folgertech's ebay store and have been looking forward to this all week. I have to say i'm disappointed in the USPS tracking service as it doesn't give me any update other than the day which the label was made. What's the point of a tracking service if all it shows you is when it was shipped and when it arrives? This is by no means a complaint on Folgertech, of course.

Thats because it hasn't shipped yet. They print the label when they start assembling your kit. Mine was printed 4 days before any activity on the shipping tracking.

Are you guys kidding me? So the estimated delivery is complete bogus?

Quote
hobbes
Are you guys kidding me? So the estimated delivery is complete bogus?

They did print the label a day or two before mine shipped, but I recived it on the Ebay listed delivery date. Just FYI, I ordered some parts last week for another project and the seller printed the label and nothing else showed up on USPS tracking until it was delivered to my adress. So, FT may have shipped it and USPS just isn't scanning it they way they should. I would shoot FT an email just to see if it has shipped or not.

Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 07/03/2015 03:54PM by Garben.

Yes, I was kind of disappointed today when my 2020 did not arrive but the filament and Teflon tube I ordered the day after arrived. Bummer, I was hoping to be printing this weekend . I did contact them and was told they normally ship in 2 to 5 days but they are waiting on a shipment .

Did anyone else have a problem with X home?

I followed the steps in animoose's blog...

physically, my X limit switch is on the right and the Y one is at the back. The X motor connector is reversed compared to the others (red wire to the left). This is exactly as shown in the construction guide.
in configuration.h, I have #define INVERT_X_DIR false, and #define X_HOME_DIR 1.
in pins.h somewhere around line 330, I have #define X_MAX_PIN 2, and #define X_MIN_PIN 3. This means my X limit switch tells the controller it is as it maximum value.
in Repetier's printer settings (printer shape), I set the X home to MAX.

But I'm still having problems. Before turning the printer on, I move the X motor to the right until it just turns on the endstop switch. In Repetier, though, if I click X home (and it knows X is at 200), it only moves to the left about 10mm. After a printing a calibration cube (also, the top of the cube didn't stick, any ideas?), it moves the X motor all the way to the left (0), but the printer thinks it's at 100.

Any ideas?

Quote
therippa
Did anyone else have a problem with X home?

I followed the steps in animoose's blog...

physically, my X limit switch is on the right and the Y one is at the back. The X motor connector is reversed compared to the others (red wire to the left). This is exactly as shown in the construction guide.
in configuration.h, I have #define INVERT_X_DIR false, and #define X_HOME_DIR 1.
in pins.h somewhere around line 330, I have #define X_MAX_PIN 2, and #define X_MIN_PIN 3. This means my X limit switch tells the controller it is as it maximum value.
in Repetier's printer settings (printer shape), I set the X home to MAX.

But I'm still having problems. Before turning the printer on, I move the X motor to the right until it just turns on the endstop switch. In Repetier, though, if I click X home (and it knows X is at 200), it only moves to the left about 10mm. After a printing a calibration cube (also, the top of the cube didn't stick, any ideas?), it moves the X motor all the way to the left (0), but the printer thinks it's at 100.

Any ideas?

Sorry, no good ideas on the setting. They work fine for me. If I am already at X home (X=200) and I click home again, the print head moves a little to the left and them comes back to home. In fact, it does this on any X home command - it hits the endstop, moves a little left, then hits it again. Maybe it's a Marlin thing to get more precise positioning. Also, I don't really have much idea about the final position, except that I recommend adding M400 as the first line of the end G code (Slic3r > Printer Settings > Custom G-code > End G-code). It waits for all commands to complete. It could be that the M84 command to disable the motors is executing before they commands are done. On my printer, I got a nasty grinding noise right as the motors abruptly stopped at the end until I added the M400.

For the top of the cube not sticking: what temperature you are printing at? The PLA setting that Folger set (219C) should be more like 185 or 190C. Mine first cube looked like this [goo.gl] until I lowered the temperature.

---

See my blog at [moosteria.blogspot.com].

Quote
animoose

Quote
therippa
Did anyone else have a problem with X home?

I followed the steps in animoose's blog...

physically, my X limit switch is on the right and the Y one is at the back. The X motor connector is reversed compared to the others (red wire to the left). This is exactly as shown in the construction guide.
in configuration.h, I have #define INVERT_X_DIR false, and #define X_HOME_DIR 1.
in pins.h somewhere around line 330, I have #define X_MAX_PIN 2, and #define X_MIN_PIN 3. This means my X limit switch tells the controller it is as it maximum value.
in Repetier's printer settings (printer shape), I set the X home to MAX.

But I'm still having problems. Before turning the printer on, I move the X motor to the right until it just turns on the endstop switch. In Repetier, though, if I click X home (and it knows X is at 200), it only moves to the left about 10mm. After a printing a calibration cube (also, the top of the cube didn't stick, any ideas?), it moves the X motor all the way to the left (0), but the printer thinks it's at 100.

Any ideas?

Sorry, no good ideas on the setting. They work fine for me. If I am already at X home (X=200) and I click home again, the print head moves a little to the left and them comes back to home. In fact, it does this on any X home command - it hits the endstop, moves a little left, then hits it again. Maybe it's a Marlin thing to get more precise positioning. Also, I don't really have much idea about the final position, except that I recommend adding M400 as the first line of the end G code (Slic3r > Printer Settings > Custom G-code > End G-code). It waits for all commands to complete. It could be that the M84 command to disable the motors is executing before they commands are done. On my printer, I got a nasty grinding noise right as the motors abruptly stopped at the end until I added the M400.

For the top of the cube not sticking: what temperature you are printing at? The PLA setting that Folger set (219C) should be more like 185 or 190C. Mine first cube looked like this [goo.gl] until I lowered the temperature.

Well, I figured out the X home issue. I ran M119, and saw the max endstop wasn't assigned correctly, so I changed it to X_MAX_PIN=3

As for the temperature, I'm testing at 200/200 and 185/190.

Nevermind, solved the other problem

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 07/03/2015 08:19PM by therippa.

I leveled the bed to the best of my ability and decided just to try and print a cube. With every layer the X axis gets of more and more to the right. (the side with the power supply) Y and Z axis seem to be ok.

Any advice as to what I have messed up? I'm not measuring but it seems like it gets off the same consistently. I tried the cube twice and it was looking off the same both times.

Quote
msaeger
I leveled the bed to the best of my ability and decided just to try and print a cube. With every layer the X axis gets of more and more to the right. (the side with the power supply) Y and Z axis seem to be ok.

Any advice as to what I have messed up? I'm not measuring but it seems like it gets off the same consistently. I tried the cube twice and it was looking off the same both times.

I only have guesses based on things I remember reading. X belt could be too loose, so you get some backlash. Or the current to the X motor could be wrong, so it skips steps. I don't know that either of these are consistent with it being off the same way each time, but maybe they'll give you some things to search on.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/03/2015 09:28PM by animoose.

---

See my blog at [moosteria.blogspot.com].

Quote
hobbes
Are you guys kidding me? So the estimated delivery is complete bogus?

Hobbes I believe the estimated delivery is the time from when they receive your order to when they are able to ship it. After that the shipping time depends on where you live and such.

Quote
hobbes
Are you guys kidding me? So the estimated delivery is complete bogus?

I originally ordered the acrylic Folgertech Prusa i3, and then maybe a half-hour later decided to go with the aluminum one instead. I emailed Folgertech to cancel the order and give me the 2020 version, but Dan (who also no longer works there, btw), told me it was already being packed and he couldn't stop the warehouse from sending it out... and it sat at the warehouse for 5 days before they even handed it off to the post office. Meanwhile, two days later I ordered the 2020, and opted for the FedEx shipping, and not only did it ship out in a day, but it arrived a few days before the acrylic one did (that I will be returning).

Catrina is the new support rep over at Folgertech helping us with issues, and it's been nice to work with her, she's been more helpful to me than Dan was.

Quote
therippa

Quote
animoose

Quote
therippa
Did anyone else have a problem with X home?

I followed the steps in animoose's blog...

physically, my X limit switch is on the right and the Y one is at the back. The X motor connector is reversed compared to the others (red wire to the left). This is exactly as shown in the construction guide.
in configuration.h, I have #define INVERT_X_DIR false, and #define X_HOME_DIR 1.
in pins.h somewhere around line 330, I have #define X_MAX_PIN 2, and #define X_MIN_PIN 3. This means my X limit switch tells the controller it is as it maximum value.
in Repetier's printer settings (printer shape), I set the X home to MAX.

But I'm still having problems. Before turning the printer on, I move the X motor to the right until it just turns on the endstop switch. In Repetier, though, if I click X home (and it knows X is at 200), it only moves to the left about 10mm. After a printing a calibration cube (also, the top of the cube didn't stick, any ideas?), it moves the X motor all the way to the left (0), but the printer thinks it's at 100.

Any ideas?

Sorry, no good ideas on the setting. They work fine for me. If I am already at X home (X=200) and I click home again, the print head moves a little to the left and them comes back to home. In fact, it does this on any X home command - it hits the endstop, moves a little left, then hits it again. Maybe it's a Marlin thing to get more precise positioning. Also, I don't really have much idea about the final position, except that I recommend adding M400 as the first line of the end G code (Slic3r > Printer Settings > Custom G-code > End G-code). It waits for all commands to complete. It could be that the M84 command to disable the motors is executing before they commands are done. On my printer, I got a nasty grinding noise right as the motors abruptly stopped at the end until I added the M400.

For the top of the cube not sticking: what temperature you are printing at? The PLA setting that Folger set (219C) should be more like 185 or 190C. Mine first cube looked like this [goo.gl] until I lowered the temperature.

Well, I figured out the X home issue. I ran M119, and saw the max endstop wasn't assigned correctly, so I changed it to X_MAX_PIN=3

As for the temperature, I'm testing at 200/200 and 185/190.[/quote

I am curious about x-pin assignment, I will have to do more looking into what it should be assigned to but here were my responces to the problem. It seems yours is a valid way to fix it but assuming future firmware isnt modified in that way, you will have to make sure to make that change each time you update. Unless that is the proper pin assignment in which case the future versions should all have that change in it.

My posts on the issue farther up in the thread :

Quote
mel0n

Quote
go_gn
Just printed my first hollow cube and a batarang last night. Didn't heat the bed since I'm using PLA so having some first layer sticking issues but they came out nice.

I'm having a strange problem with the X axis which I'm 100% sure is software, but I can't seem to figure out how to fix it.

Whenever I switch on the printer, I home my axes first. If I try to home the X axis first, instead of moving to the right and hitting the endstop, the printer moves maybe 5 to 10 mm to the left and stops. The red numbers on the manual control turn black and become 200 ( which is the max value for X axis).
The printer thinks it has homed but it actually is far from it. I don't understand why it thinks it has homed without hitting an endstop. If I dont hit home and try moving it towards the endstop using manual controls, it does not move. For some reason it thinks it is on the far end of the limit without any input. Is there a way to set the initial software position(before homing) in the firmware?

The strange thing is: If I home the Y and Z axes first (separately) and then try the same procedures for X axis, it works fine.

I can't seem to deduce why this would happen from the config code.

In Repetier, go into your printer settings, and make sure X axis home is set to min, not max. and also make sure your X endstop is plugged into min not max. Here is the shematic with lables, on your board they are lables X Y Z, I believe its upside down from the schematic but the order is the same.
[www.reprap.org]

I dont have my printer infront of me at the moment but I believe it goes z y x, so from right to left it goes x-min, x-max, y-min, y-max and so on.

Quote
mel0n
I am only double posting because I am not sure if you read my last post or not yet, but I didnt have my printer in front of me at the time of posting. the way mine is set up, looking at the front of the printer, my X endstop is all the way on the right side, and plugged into the X-Max endstop pins (X+ or the second set of pins in from the right side), and in repetier I have it set to max (under printer settings > printer shape).

In firmware my settings are:

const bool X_ENDSTOPS_INVERTING = true; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstops.
#define INVERT_X_DIR true // for Mendel set to false, for Orca set to true

With these settings, my printers home is at the front right corner of the print area, and it considers this to be x = 200.

I have been making note of everybodys issues and will be putting together a known problems and fixed post both here and on my blog sometime next week.

I too was having problems with the x axis. It gives me a log of "endstop hit" when I try to move towards the endstop (move right), even though it has plenty of space. It seems like it was reading the wrong pins for the endstop; M119 shows "x_min: open." Sure enough, swapping X_MAX_PIN with X_MIN_PIN's value worked.

If future versions of the firmware would have the same incorrect definition, though, wouldn't it be better to switch where the endstop is physically connected? Or is that wired differently? (I'm new to this).

Quote
arxidon

Hobbes I believe the estimated delivery is the time from when they receive your order to when they are able to ship it. After that the shipping time depends on where you live and such.

That's incorrect. It represents an approximated timeframe for when the package can be delivered, without unforseen delays. I've always recieved the package on, before, or just a day after the estimated delivery date and in most cases the tracking information was updated daily (usps as well). I'm quite annoyed with this as I'm going to have to wait 'til next weekend to assemble it, assuming it will even show up next week...
I've also contacted Folgertech yesterday but i'm assuming it was a no work day, as it was for me.

I just hope when it gets here there won't be missing parts as it sounds pretty common.

Quote
nonfish
I too was having problems with the x axis. It gives me a log of "endstop hit" when I try to move towards the endstop (move right), even though it has plenty of space. It seems like it was reading the wrong pins for the endstop; M119 shows "x_min: open." Sure enough, swapping X_MAX_PIN with X_MIN_PIN's value worked.

If future versions of the firmware would have the same incorrect definition, though, wouldn't it be better to switch where the endstop is physically connected? Or is that wired differently? (I'm new to this).

Yeah, fixing it in configuration.h is a temporary fix, I guess I should find a ramps board pin layout and attach the end stop to the right connector.

Edit: Yes, just move the X stop connector one set of pins over, and reset the settings in the firmware

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/04/2015 05:07PM by therippa.

Quote
hobbes

Quote
arxidon

Hobbes I believe the estimated delivery is the time from when they receive your order to when they are able to ship it. After that the shipping time depends on where you live and such.

That's incorrect. It represents an approximated timeframe for when the package can be delivered, without unforseen delays. I've always recieved the package on, before, or just a day after the estimated delivery date and in most cases the tracking information was updated daily (usps as well). I'm quite annoyed with this as I'm going to have to wait 'til next weekend to assemble it, assuming it will even show up next week...
I've also contacted Folgertech yesterday but i'm assuming it was a no work day, as it was for me.

I just hope when it gets here there won't be missing parts as it sounds pretty common.

I got in touch yesterday with Folger Tech , mine was saying delivery date of 7/3 , they said they normally ship in 2 to 5 days but they were waiting on a shipment that had been delayed.

Now that I got my printer running, does anyone know if there is a guide to updating marlin? I'd like to be up-to-date with the more recent releases, especially for some of the safety features added, but I'm not sure what settings I'll have to edit to get it to run for this printer specifically.

Quote
nonfish
Now that I got my printer running, does anyone know if there is a guide to updating marlin? I'd like to be up-to-date with the more recent releases, especially for some of the safety features added, but I'm not sure what settings I'll have to edit to get it to run for this printer specifically.

It is pretty straightforward if you are familiar with programming. Basically just go through your current config line by line and copy it over to the new config file.

I upgraded to the release version of marlin: [github.com]

I tried activating the safety features but they would false trigger sometimes when manually setting or changing the temperature so I turned them off.

Quote
mel0n
Just curious, is anybody else's printer really loud? Mine has been really loud, and getting progressively louder the more I print with it. Its completely related to the X-Axis and its a really loud vibration. I have tried messing with belt tension to make sure its not too tight, but the sound is still loud...My Y is nice and quiet even during rapid movements that usually have my X axis screaming.

This is the one of the only complaints I have about this printer. My printer performs and prints beautifully. My wife and I have run it probably 16 hours a day for the last three weeks!

My printer rapids in x perfectly, but at fill speed in the X direction, it resonates super loud. It'll wake me up if I'm printing overnight.

My Y-axis got really noisy for a bit, but I printed and installed this: ytensioner and I tensioned it to what I felt was appropriate, and the noise went away. (Great part, difficult to assemble/install)

I also had to put foam in between the Y-bearing carriages and the aluminum plate (I actually used ear plugs cut in half). The printed carriages are not perfect and put twist into the aluminum plate when tightened completely. I placed the foam and tightened the screws until the distance between the O.D. of the bearings and the top of the aluminum plate were within 0.002". I also had to increase the size of the clearance holes in the printed carriages for the same reason. The screws were so tight in the holes, that they created a bind in the assembly when tightened.

I'm thinking of installing this to tension X appropriately: xtensioner but I'm not sure I like the design yet. I think it needs a slot for the stock bolt for more stability.

The only other thing is that it doesn't come close to the advertised max print height. Like someone else said, it's max is somewhere around 145mm.

The better (more accurately) set up the machine is, the better it will print!

Quote
Aridad

Quote
mel0n
Just curious, is anybody else's printer really loud? Mine has been really loud, and getting progressively louder the more I print with it. Its completely related to the X-Axis and its a really loud vibration. I have tried messing with belt tension to make sure its not too tight, but the sound is still loud...My Y is nice and quiet even during rapid movements that usually have my X axis screaming.

This is the one of the only complaints I have about this printer. My printer performs and prints beautifully. My wife and I have run it probably 16 hours a day for the last three weeks!

My printer rapids in x perfectly, but at fill speed in the X direction, it resonates super loud. It'll wake me up if I'm printing overnight.

My Y-axis got really noisy for a bit, but I printed and installed this: ytensioner and I tensioned it to what I felt was appropriate, and the noise went away. (Great part, difficult to assemble/install)

I also had to put foam in between the Y-bearing carriages and the aluminum plate (I actually used ear plugs cut in half). The printed carriages are not perfect and put twist into the aluminum plate when tightened completely. I placed the foam and tightened the screws until the distance between the O.D. of the bearings and the top of the aluminum plate were within 0.002". I also had to increase the size of the clearance holes in the printed carriages for the same reason. The screws were so tight in the holes, that they created a bind in the assembly when tightened.

I'm thinking of installing this to tension X appropriately: xtensioner but I'm not sure I like the design yet. I think it needs a slot for the stock bolt for more stability.

The only other thing is that it doesn't come close to the advertised max print height. Like someone else said, it's max is somewhere around 145mm.

The better (more accurately) set up the machine is, the better it will print!

My X carriage was noisy as well. I temporarily solved it by putting a ziptie on the bottom of the screw rod that was making the noise and connecting it to the chrome rod next to it, using a little tension to keep it from vibrating.

One of Tom's videos talks about only using one ziptie per bearing: [www.youtube.com] starting around the 5:25 mark. I haven't tried this, so if you try it, it's at your own risk.

---

See my blog at [moosteria.blogspot.com].

Quote
Aridad

Quote
mel0n
Just curious, is anybody else's printer really loud? Mine has been really loud, and getting progressively louder the more I print with it. Its completely related to the X-Axis and its a really loud vibration. I have tried messing with belt tension to make sure its not too tight, but the sound is still loud...My Y is nice and quiet even during rapid movements that usually have my X axis screaming.

This is the one of the only complaints I have about this printer. My printer performs and prints beautifully. My wife and I have run it probably 16 hours a day for the last three weeks!

My printer rapids in x perfectly, but at fill speed in the X direction, it resonates super loud. It'll wake me up if I'm printing overnight.

My Y-axis got really noisy for a bit, but I printed and installed this: ytensioner and I tensioned it to what I felt was appropriate, and the noise went away. (Great part, difficult to assemble/install)

I also had to put foam in between the Y-bearing carriages and the aluminum plate (I actually used ear plugs cut in half). The printed carriages are not perfect and put twist into the aluminum plate when tightened completely. I placed the foam and tightened the screws until the distance between the O.D. of the bearings and the top of the aluminum plate were within 0.002". I also had to increase the size of the clearance holes in the printed carriages for the same reason. The screws were so tight in the holes, that they created a bind in the assembly when tightened.

I'm thinking of installing this to tension X appropriately: xtensioner but I'm not sure I like the design yet. I think it needs a slot for the stock bolt for more stability.

The only other thing is that it doesn't come close to the advertised max print height. Like someone else said, it's max is somewhere around 145mm.

The better (more accurately) set up the machine is, the better it will print!

Thanks for the response/reassurance that its not just my printer that's loud. I am very greatful that we have such great people in the community and i have been giving back as much as I can. That was actually me who said that 140mm was the "comfortable max" and 145mm was the absolute max. I have an x axis tensioner in my print queue that i am waiting on my abs spools in the mail for. I dont think that will help much though as the vibration seems to be coming from the motor on the x axis. I will probably use some foam board cut to size for now. But i will eventually make a 3d model to be printed in ninja flex and then upload it for you all. I also have found some lm8uu printable bushings that look. Good as well a nce half the noise comes from the bearings.

Also i saw where they m recommended using one zip tie and it makes sense. But i haven't tried it yet.

On a side note, i am confident in my ability to get my printer printing well at this point and have learned a lot through trying to help other people out that i think my next priority is cable chains and quietness. I may also be condensing current information on known issues and fixes, along with current upgrades.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/05/2015 01:11AM by mel0n.

Got my printer built and running yesterday. My kit was shipped with one of the chrome rods the wrong length, I got (3) 320mm and (1) 365mm instead of two of each.
I managed to use it with some spacers and get it to work for now, they are shipping me the correct length which should be here tomorrow.
I also had problems with homing the x axis, and like others I just moved the end stop connector over one set of pins, and changed the printer setting in Repetier to max for the x axis.
It took a little bit to get the extruder close enough to the bed at first, but I think I have got it now, I also had to reverse the motor for the extruder by flipping the plug over on the RAMPS.
They were all out of PLA when I ordered my kit so I got a spool of ABS.
Here is my first print

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/05/2015 11:30AM by NB6512.

Lookin good man! Your gunna want to fine tune your z axis and extruder. I can see in your picture that extrusion is off.

The 2020 looks like it is wide enough for a spool holder and lcd on the top. Has anyone put both of these on the top?

Help me get this thing going!


Attached is what I get when printing a 30x30 cube. Where should I even start?


[goo.gl]

Quote
msaeger
Help me get this thing going!


Attached is what I get when printing a 30x30 cube. Where should I even start?


[goo.gl]

I'm no expert on the specifics here, but as an engineer, the first things I'd try would be to be issue commands manually and see if you get what you expect. For example, stick a piece of tape to the bed, mark set the print head to some position, mark where it is, then use the manual control to move it 50 or 100 units and see if it moves 50mm or 100mm. Try this in both the X and Y directions. Try it starting at different points. If it doesn't move the distance you expect, check the stepper drivers are supplying the right amount of power, and that the belts are not slipping. If it works OK, it's not a guarantee, as it might be the combination of X and Y movement that's a problem, but perhaps it'll help.

Check the extruder by drawing a line on the filament 50mm up from where it enters the extruder, extrude 50mm and check the line is now just entering the extruder. This might also be easier by marking the filament at 70mm, extruding 50mm, and checking the line is 20mm above the extruder.

These are just some ideas. If it doesn't diagnose the problem, and you don't get better responses, try one of the other threads in the forum which might be read by more people.

---

See my blog at [moosteria.blogspot.com].

If anyone would like an easy way to mount the LCD smart controller to the frame, I made these - RepRapDiscount Smart Controller Mount for 2020 Frames.

Quote
therippa
If anyone would like an easy way to mount the LCD smart controller to the frame, I made these - RepRapDiscount Smart Controller Mount for 2020 Frames.

I did one too! [www.thingiverse.com]. I like your built in T nuts.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/05/2015 09:14PM by animoose.

---

See my blog at [moosteria.blogspot.com].