Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread)

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mike3
Thanks Tim. hopefully it will get better as I like the Idea of an American company.. but with good customer service...

Meanwhile while I am waiting.. could someone with the experience with this kit help me understand the Software side of things,, I am pretty good with electro-mechanical side of it I believe.. with the exceptions of the specific interaction with a 3D printer and its controller/software... First does the Folger 2020 come with the software loaded on the arduino if not how is this done.. second what software will I need to download and why and its uses.. Any help will be greatly appreciated.. I am a complete newbie with 3D printers,, but have worked with electronics as a hobby since I was a kid.. and have very good skills building things.Once I understand . Thanks Mike PS I also ordered the LCD 2004 and a 2.2lb of ABS

You will need to compile the firmware and download it to the Arduino. It's quite simple, and there are instructions in one of the guides on the Folger web site. Several of us have had to make tweaks to the source code, but it's fairly straightforward and reading previous posts or asking here should tell you all you need to know. There are various options for the software used to control the printer and send it models to print. The Folger guide recommends Repetier in combination with Slic3r, and they are easy to download and install. At least, I found this to be true on Windows. There are other options for the software both on Windows and not, but my recommendation would be get it going with Repetier+Slic3r to begin with. Slic3r is the program which reads a model file and works out the specific commands to sent to the printer (known as g code), which Repetier handles communication with the printer and provides a UI for viewing the model and the state of the print. It also handles all the communication with Slic3r.

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See my blog at [moosteria.blogspot.com].

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animoose

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mike3
Thanks Tim. hopefully it will get better as I like the Idea of an American company.. but with good customer service...

Meanwhile while I am waiting.. could someone with the experience with this kit help me understand the Software side of things,, I am pretty good with electro-mechanical side of it I believe.. with the exceptions of the specific interaction with a 3D printer and its controller/software... First does the Folger 2020 come with the software loaded on the arduino if not how is this done.. second what software will I need to download and why and its uses.. Any help will be greatly appreciated.. I am a complete newbie with 3D printers,, but have worked with electronics as a hobby since I was a kid.. and have very good skills building things.Once I understand . Thanks Mike PS I also ordered the LCD 2004 and a 2.2lb of ABS

You will need to compile the firmware and download it to the Arduino. It's quite simple, and there are instructions in one of the guides on the Folger web site. Several of us have had to make tweaks to the source code, but it's fairly straightforward and reading previous posts or asking here should tell you all you need to know. There are various options for the software used to control the printer and send it models to print. The Folger guide recommends Repetier in combination with Slic3r, and they are easy to download and install. At least, I found this to be true on Windows. There are other options for the software both on Windows and not, but my recommendation would be get it going with Repetier+Slic3r to begin with. Slic3r is the program which reads a model file and works out the specific commands to sent to the printer (known as g code), which Repetier handles communication with the printer and provides a UI for viewing the model and the state of the print. It also handles all the communication with Slic3r.

I second most of what he said. I have used Windows, 64 bit linux, and embeded arm linux. They go from easy to hard in that order with Windows being the easiest and most straight forward, especially if you aren't a linux guru. I would have to say that starting out Cura is easier. Its easy to get overwhelmed with all the settings in slic3r and I found Cura engine to be much more straight forward and works pretty much out of the box, just set your temps and filament diameter. As for firmware, just download arduino and the firmware code. The guide tells you how and it should take all of 5-10 mins to get the firmware loaded from start to finish. There is no need to play with the firmware before you build the printer unless you know marlin and stuff pretty well. I would suggest you download repetier and start playing with slicers sooner rather than later if you want a head start because that was the most time consuming part for me when I finished my build.

On a side note, I keep seeing a lot of impatience on here. It clearly states there is a processing time when you order. Just because a label was printed didnt mean that they have it boxed up ready to go. We have found a label means they have started processing your order. Pretty much everybody had a 4-5 BUSINESS DAY period of time between a label being printed, and any actual shipping activity. Also I know your excited to get your kit and build your printer, but just understand that the entire process/ownership of 3D printing takes a lot of patience and experimenting. Especially with a DIY kit/reprap.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/17/2015 05:02PM by mel0n.

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My creations/2020 aluminum parts/FolgerTech i3 upgrades [www.thingiverse.com]

Thanks for the fast replies.. Will get started on the Software..

side note: didn't see a handling time on the printer. . not really impatient just wanted good communications
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this was What I was going by...

"Some of the items from order >BLANK< is now being prepared to be shipped, please note depending on the item you have ordered there maybe a 1-5 day handling time, if there is a handling time they will normally be stated on the listing" .. I couldn't find a handling time on the printer I ordered.. again just wanted confirmation all was well and not lost in transit.or some other problem... As the ABS showed up yesterday.. communications is everything Regards.. Mike

So as I understand it.. I load a .stl file into Slic3r or Cura,, it generates G-code then you transfer that to Repetier which actually controls the printer....I will be using Win7

Mike

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/17/2015 05:23PM by mike3.

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mike3
So as I understand it.. I load a .stl file into Slic3r or Cura,, it generates G-code then you transfer that to Repetier which actually controls the printer....I will be using Win7

Mike

That will work, but Repetier can interact with the slicer for you.

You can load the .stl file into repetier and it will automatically send it to slic3r/cura and receive the g-code.

Glad to hear That ,, Just downloaded it and started playing with it..

Whats the server part for?

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mike3
Well at least they answered you I emailed and called with no response.. My tracking is still "Label Created".. I ran a business for over 40 years,,, and Customer service and interaction with customers is your business,, Hopefully they gave me a wrong tracking.. don't know as they havn't answered.. I was going to let them know it would be alright if they were waiting on a few parts it would be OK to ship what they had and send the rest later,, I wouldn't have minded even paying the extra shipping.. well we will see,, at least I hope since waiting all the parts will be present..

When did you order yours? Mine just shipped out today.

let me check... Happy Happy Joy Joy the tracking finally says it will be here Mon... worrying for nothing..

Mike

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mike3
So as I understand it.. I load a .stl file into Slic3r or Cura,, it generates G-code then you transfer that to Repetier which actually controls the printer....I will be using Win7

Mike

Youtube is very helpful with this stuff...

[www.youtube.com]

I think I've spent more time watching videos than messing with the printer and I'd say it has helped. I've only had one single failed print so far when the hot end jammed up.

what videos? I still cannot get my printer to work or the heat bed or thermistor to get hot or do anything

Does anyone have g-code files for the printer parts? I am hoping to have the future son in law mill them out of aluminum on his CNC machine at work. any thoughts on the idea of this?

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[email protected]
Does anyone have g-code files for the printer parts? I am hoping to have the future son in law mill them out of aluminum on his CNC machine at work. any thoughts on the idea of this?

The STL files are on the Folger site (in the Google Drive link).

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See my blog at [moosteria.blogspot.com].

I'm looking for unsliced g-codes for the parts these look like they are ready to print. Will try it with solid works and see if it will save it for mitsubishi, haas, mazak (?) formats. Unless I am looking at them wrong.

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[email protected]
I'm looking for unsliced g-codes for the parts these look like they are ready to print. Will try it with solid works and see if it will save it for mitsubishi, haas, mazak (?) formats. Unless I am looking at them wrong.

.stl != .gcd

stl files are mesh files and you have to use something that can convert it like Autodesk inventor, or 3dsmax. Also the files were posted earlier in the thread if the Folger ones don't work.

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My creations/2020 aluminum parts/FolgerTech i3 upgrades [www.thingiverse.com]

Anyone have any thoughts about trying this he says he has some different metals he would like to try to make them out of but thinks aluminum would be best for heat distribution. I wonder if I should just build the printer with the plastic printed parts or try it with the metal cnc ones. I'm worried I may need the slop of the plastic parts to allow things to slide freely

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/17/2015 09:53PM by jasonsaffle13@gmail.com.

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[email protected]
Anyone have any thoughts about trying this he says he has some different metals he would like to try to make them out of but thinks aluminum would be best for heat distribution. I wonder if I should just build the printer with the plastic printed parts or try it with the metal cnc ones. I'm worried I may need the slop of the plastic parts to allow things to slide freely

Aluminium will be better, but note that the existing parts have been designed for 3d printing. The geometries are not well suited to CNC and some of the features (ex: zip tie slots) are not manufacturable.

Your earlier questions do not make sense. You have named several CNC machine builders, not file formats. Generating g-code for a VMC requires roughly $10,000-50,000 in software as well as intimate knowledge of the machines, workholding and cutters available.

Solidworks is a CAM package and does not do g-code generation.

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 07/17/2015 11:00PM by 691175002.

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691175002

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[email protected]
Anyone have any thoughts about trying this he says he has some different metals he would like to try to make them out of but thinks aluminum would be best for heat distribution. I wonder if I should just build the printer with the plastic printed parts or try it with the metal cnc ones. I'm worried I may need the slop of the plastic parts to allow things to slide freely

Aluminium will be better, but note that the existing parts have been designed for 3d printing. The geometries are not well suited to CNC and some of the features (ex: zip tie slots) are not manufacturable.

Your earlier questions do not make sense. You have named several CNC machine builders, not file formats. Generating g-code for a VMC requires roughly $10,000-50,000 in software as well as intimate knowledge of the machines, workholding and cutters available.

Solidworks is a CAM package and does not do g-code generation.

That was me trying to understand/translate what he was asking. We had used notepad+ to open the STL files here and he said he was not familiar with the formatting. He named off some of the machines at his work and mentioned the controls. I just ended up putting the STL files onto a USB stick for him and he took them to his shop to see what he could do with them.

If he can use them I may at least use them for the motor brackets/mounts. He claims since they are small parts compared to what they make he may have scrap pieces he can cut for me to try out. It's in his hands now since I have no clue if he can even do it, though I may tell him if he can not then he has to stop dating my daughter (kidding he's a great guy).

A lot of the same newbie questions about slicers and filament, but I don't see anyone using the easier solutions for these: Simplify3D, and PET.

Simplify3D is purchased slicer, but with a super easy beginner mode.

PET is a filament that does not warp or smell or need high bed temps, which are three of the things causing the most concern with new folks.

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RRuser
A lot of the same newbie questions about slicers and filament, but I don't see anyone using the easier solutions for these: Simplify3D, and PET.

Simplify3D is purchased slicer, but with a super easy beginner mode.

PET is a filament that does not warp or smell or need high bed temps, which are three of the things causing the most concern with new folks.

Simplify3D - $150 not worth it

and in general the rest of your post- If people aren't building a RepRap with the intention of having issues they have to solve, learning, and trying to find new ways to improve on design, they should buy a commercial/consumer printer with all the guess work taken out for them. "super easy beginner mode" is not what one should be looking for in the RepRap community. Thats the way I look at it as least having been lurking for a few years.

And if your building a RepRap as a low cost option for a 3d printer, you are an idiot because there are now low cost 3d printers such as the M3D micro and Tiko.

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 07/18/2015 02:53PM by mel0n.

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My creations/2020 aluminum parts/FolgerTech i3 upgrades [www.thingiverse.com]

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[email protected]

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691175002

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[email protected]
Anyone have any thoughts about trying this he says he has some different metals he would like to try to make them out of but thinks aluminum would be best for heat distribution. I wonder if I should just build the printer with the plastic printed parts or try it with the metal cnc ones. I'm worried I may need the slop of the plastic parts to allow things to slide freely

Aluminium will be better, but note that the existing parts have been designed for 3d printing. The geometries are not well suited to CNC and some of the features (ex: zip tie slots) are not manufacturable.

Your earlier questions do not make sense. You have named several CNC machine builders, not file formats. Generating g-code for a VMC requires roughly $10,000-50,000 in software as well as intimate knowledge of the machines, workholding and cutters available.

Solidworks is a CAM package and does not do g-code generation.

That was me trying to understand/translate what he was asking. We had used notepad+ to open the STL files here and he said he was not familiar with the formatting. He named off some of the machines at his work and mentioned the controls. I just ended up putting the STL files onto a USB stick for him and he took them to his shop to see what he could do with them.

If he can use them I may at least use them for the motor brackets/mounts. He claims since they are small parts compared to what they make he may have scrap pieces he can cut for me to try out. It's in his hands now since I have no clue if he can even do it, though I may tell him if he can not then he has to stop dating my daughter (kidding he's a great guy).

Yes you can substitute plastic parts with aluminum, but not without heavy modification on the original design. Instead of securing with zip ties, you will need to secure them with bolts or press fit instead. You will also need to consider the additional weight you will incur, especially on moving parts. Practically, you can mess with the x-ends since they relatively move slower (z axis) and other static parts like corner brackets, motor mounts, etc.. . If you want to replace the x and y carriage, you must ensure that the x and y motors and drivers are up to the task. They need to be machined with tighter tolerances too or with at least provision for adjustments.

As for the stl files, as i have mentioned somewhere on this thread, autocad inventor has an add-on that can transform the stl to an object that you can modify to suit your needs. After that, exporting this object to something that can be used to generate gcode is up to your future son-in-law.

Okay so I'm new to 3D printers. I ordered my printer yesterday and while im waiting im gonna read up on the build of the printer, but what kind of material should I use as my heated bed. I understand that there is a heating element but that isnt always flat, so you need to buy glass. Will a picture frame glass work or even a mirror? Or is there anything instead that will work?

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zarnold16
Okay so I'm new to 3D printers. I ordered my printer yesterday and while im waiting im gonna read up on the build of the printer, but what kind of material should I use as my heated bed. I understand that there is a heating element but that isnt always flat, so you need to buy glass. Will a picture frame glass work or even a mirror? Or is there anything instead that will work?

I am also new to the 3d print world. Just got the kit in the mail, it took me about 10 hrs. to build. I am using HatchBox PLA at 190 first layer at 0.1mm and 185 at 0.2mm for prints and it is coming out awsome! The bed temp is at 60 with just a piece of glass I picked up at lowes today for $2.50 and cut it down to 8x8.
The only changes I made were: plug the end stop for the X axis into #6 not #7 like the manual says to. I still get the bounce on the X home, but no big deal so far. Also, I added the end code that Animoose suggested. No changes to the Firmware, nothing. Even my LCD works fine.
Check out Animooses blog, a lot of good info there!

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zarnold16
Okay so I'm new to 3D printers. I ordered my printer yesterday and while im waiting im gonna read up on the build of the printer, but what kind of material should I use as my heated bed. I understand that there is a heating element but that isnt always flat, so you need to buy glass. Will a picture frame glass work or even a mirror? Or is there anything instead that will work?

I've heard of people using picture frame glass and mirrors, or at least mirror tiles. I went to a local glass shop and got a piece of window glass. Seems like 3mm is what many people get, but 2mm will probably do. If you want to go fancier, buy borosilicate glass from somewhere like McMaster-Carr online.

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See my blog at [moosteria.blogspot.com].

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zarnold16
Okay so I'm new to 3D printers. I ordered my printer yesterday and while im waiting im gonna read up on the build of the printer, but what kind of material should I use as my heated bed. I understand that there is a heating element but that isnt always flat, so you need to buy glass. Will a picture frame glass work or even a mirror? Or is there anything instead that will work?

I have read most of that blog. But with your glass from Lowes. Did they cut it for free? If the glass sheet was 16x24, would they cut you 6 8x8 glass pieces?

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winchester7mm

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zarnold16
Okay so I'm new to 3D printers. I ordered my printer yesterday and while im waiting im gonna read up on the build of the printer, but what kind of material should I use as my heated bed. I understand that there is a heating element but that isnt always flat, so you need to buy glass. Will a picture frame glass work or even a mirror? Or is there anything instead that will work?

I am also new to the 3d print world. Just got the kit in the mail, it took me about 10 hrs. to build. I am using HatchBox PLA at 190 first layer at 0.1mm and 185 at 0.2mm for prints and it is coming out awsome! The bed temp is at 60 with just a piece of glass I picked up at lowes today for $2.50 and cut it down to 8x8.
The only changes I made were: plug the end stop for the X axis into #6 not #7 like the manual says to. I still get the bounce on the X home, but no big deal so far. Also, I added the end code that Animoose suggested. No changes to the Firmware, nothing. Even my LCD works fine.
Check out Animooses blog, a lot of good info there!

I made one small change to that end code. I removed the lines that say
G28 Y0 ; home Y axis
G28 X0 ; home X axis
They are unnecessary, and I had one occasion where my print ended up on the far back end of heated bed, and the homing caused it to hit the clips I hold down the glass with. If you leave these out, then Repetier/Slic3r moves the print head to X=100 Y=0 by itself.

I'm glad you like the blog!

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/19/2015 11:29PM by animoose.

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See my blog at [moosteria.blogspot.com].

Some upgrades done on my printer:

Z motor stand off to reclaim around 40mm Z build height


8mm lead screw with 2mm pitch (purchased from FT) constrained on top end with a 608 bearing to eliminate the "springy" hold of the motor coupler


Replaced with a bigger X axis stepper motor



Corner brackets were also replaced. The frame is more rigid now. Currently i can set repetier's feed rate to 300 (from manual control tab) while using slicer's default printing speeds without having to worry about too much vibrations or swaying Z posts/frame. At this speed, quality gets somehow compromised but accuracy is still pretty much spot-on. As someone here as mentioned before, the provided "internal" L brackets are definitely for aesthetic purposes only and doesn't do much to rigidly attach the frames. If you have the resource, changing those brackets are recommended IMO.



A print in ABS i have done some time ago.


Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/20/2015 02:52AM by wderoxas.

The 2020 printer is here.. just picked it up from my front porch.. I noticed after I posted that there was no handling time on the 2020 on Folgers site.. they posted a 2--4 day that is a good thing.. now no worrying or guessing.. And that they pay attention to this Thread ,,Will be ordering more from them as my first project after I digest all this and get things working the way they are supposed to ,, is the Smartrap core,, . thanks every one for their help so far,, well on to building

The 2020 printer is here.. just picked it up from my front porch.. I noticed after I posted that there was no handling time on the 2020 on Folgers site.. they posted a 2--4 day soon after,,,,, that is a good thing.. now no worrying or guessing.. And that they pay attention to this Thread ,,Will be ordering more from them as my first project after I digest all this and get things working the way they are supposed to ,, is the Smartrap core,, . thanks every one for their help so far,, well on to building, After I do an inventory I will post If all the parts are there and what condition...

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 07/20/2015 01:58PM by mike3.

@wderoxas - where did you get the corner brackets from (buy or make?). And are the STLs for your new parts on thingiverse? These looks like some nice mods.

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See my blog at [moosteria.blogspot.com].