Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread)

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[email protected]
I want to reprint the x-carriage parts, I thought I saw a copy of them with screws to snug up the bearings but without the 8 mm collars like these have [www.thingiverse.com] I like wderoxas design but for some reason I am nervous about changing out the 5 mm rods to the 8mm collared ones. I cracked the under motor bracket for the Z rod holders. I have been asking Folger tech to sell me new ones.

Does anyone know where I can find the ones I mentioned> I have yet to play with 3d modeling software so maybe this could be my first project in google sketch up?

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Steve_in_NJ
Greetings all,

Here's my first msg here. I have gone through a lot of the thread - tons of great info!

I have two questions, both related to my build which is 90% complete.

1) The tape holding the thermistor to the heatbed let go so I need to re-do it. While I am at it I should ask - where precisely should the bulb-tip be placed? I had it right in the hole in the middle of the heatbed, essentially filling it level with the surface. Is that best?

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Steve_in_NJ
2) Please note this part of step 21 (on page 29) in the build manual. Is there a misprint here or am I dreaming? Does this really refer to BOTH the first and second place on the ramp board's blue power strip as (-)? Does the picture really show the black cable connecting to the (+) terminal?

2020_build_guide_page.jpg

Thanks much. I am looking forward to getting to the end of this build and seeing just what it can do.

Steve

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Steve_in_NJ
Greetings all,

Here's my first msg here. I have gone through a lot of the thread - tons of great info!

I have two questions, both related to my build which is 90% complete.

1) The tape holding the thermistor to the heatbed let go so I need to re-do it. While I am at it I should ask - where precisely should the bulb-tip be placed? I had it right in the hole in the middle of the heatbed, essentially filling it level with the surface. Is that best?

2) Please note this part of step 21 (on page 29) in the build manual. Is there a misprint here or am I dreaming? Does this really refer to BOTH the first and second place on the ramp board's blue power strip as (-)? Does the picture really show the black cable connecting to the (+) terminal?

2020_build_guide_page.jpg

Thanks much. I am looking forward to getting to the end of this build and seeing just what it can do.

Steve

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therippa
Has anyone thought about making an enclosure for this printer? It heats up my office a lot when printing ABS. Maybe we could make it a group project?

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therippa
Has anyone thought about making an enclosure for this printer? It heats up my office a lot when printing ABS. Maybe we could make it a group project?

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wderoxas

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Steve_in_NJ
Greetings all,

Here's my first msg here. I have gone through a lot of the thread - tons of great info!

I have two questions, both related to my build which is 90% complete.

1) The tape holding the thermistor to the heatbed let go so I need to re-do it. While I am at it I should ask - where precisely should the bulb-tip be placed? I had it right in the hole in the middle of the heatbed, essentially filling it level with the surface. Is that best?

Yes, it should be inside the hole. Its best if you can make the bulb-tip to be in contact with whatever build plate your going to use on top of the heated bed (glass or aluminum bed).

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Steve_in_NJ

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wderoxas

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Steve_in_NJ
Greetings all,

Here's my first msg here. I have gone through a lot of the thread - tons of great info!

I have two questions, both related to my build which is 90% complete.

1) The tape holding the thermistor to the heatbed let go so I need to re-do it. While I am at it I should ask - where precisely should the bulb-tip be placed? I had it right in the hole in the middle of the heatbed, essentially filling it level with the surface. Is that best?

Yes, it should be inside the hole. Its best if you can make the bulb-tip to be in contact with whatever build plate your going to use on top of the heated bed (glass or aluminum bed).

Uh, WHAT build plate on top of the heated bed? I didn't know there needed to be another plate on top of the red bed. What is appropriate/typical? Can one not print directly on the red bed?

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therippa

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Steve_in_NJ

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wderoxas

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Steve_in_NJ
Greetings all,

Here's my first msg here. I have gone through a lot of the thread - tons of great info!

I have two questions, both related to my build which is 90% complete.

1) The tape holding the thermistor to the heatbed let go so I need to re-do it. While I am at it I should ask - where precisely should the bulb-tip be placed? I had it right in the hole in the middle of the heatbed, essentially filling it level with the surface. Is that best?

Yes, it should be inside the hole. Its best if you can make the bulb-tip to be in contact with whatever build plate your going to use on top of the heated bed (glass or aluminum bed).

Uh, WHAT build plate on top of the heated bed? I didn't know there needed to be another plate on top of the red bed. What is appropriate/typical? Can one not print directly on the red bed?

You can, but you probably won't be happy with the results. The Folgertech website tells you you will need a 8x8 piece of glass ( [folgertech.com] ), you can get them on Amazon for ~$13 [www.amazon.com]

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wderoxas

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[email protected]
I want to reprint the x-carriage parts, I thought I saw a copy of them with screws to snug up the bearings but without the 8 mm collars like these have [www.thingiverse.com] I like wderoxas design but for some reason I am nervous about changing out the 5 mm rods to the 8mm collared ones. I cracked the under motor bracket for the Z rod holders. I have been asking Folger tech to sell me new ones.

Does anyone know where I can find the ones I mentioned> I have yet to play with 3d modeling software so maybe this could be my first project in google sketch up?

I added the X-ends for the 5mm threaded rod. X-ends for 5mm threaded rod. Haven't tried printing it but it was the original dimensions from the original STL files.

I assume it was the acrylic parts that you cracked. I haven't done any model for it but it should be fairly easy to do. Im currently at work so i cant take measurements. But of you could give me the length and thickness of the sides/edges of the acrylic part, i could probably replicate it.

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wderoxas
The pcb heater bed isnt exactly flat. So you need to have another build plate on top of it. While were on this topic, i have a hunch that you might have placed the heated bed wrongly.. the side with the copper traces should be facing up to get the most heat out of it. That said, the build plate will then protect those traces from scratches due to the hotend tip

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shaol
@ Blank64

First I have no programming skill or 3d printing skill.

I'm having problems too. which motor is it? Mine was X. If your are having the problem with the printer powered on then go into configuration.h go down to end stop and change 1 to -1 or the same as y and z. For me this freed the motor then it moved freely.

goodluck

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blank64
Hi all,

I recently got one of these kits and am mostly done putting it together.

Something that has me worried is that one of my stepper motors seems to have no hold (I can turn it by hand with no effort while the others put up a lot of resistance), the back area where the cords plug in also seems kind of loose compared to the others. Does this mean it is broken? Is it safe to test it out in my ramps board?

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Steve_in_NJ
If I am placing a perfectly flat piece of tempered glass on top of a presumably NOT perfectly flat heated bed, is some sort of tape or other heat-transferring goop between the two a good idea? Similar to the stuff one puts between a chip and a heatsink?