Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread)

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GravityWins
Hoping to get some help with and issue that I am having with my Foger 2020 Prusa. The issue is with the stepper motor on the x axis. all the other axis work fine. The motor only seems to want to go in one direction. When I use Repeier host when I click to move in either the positive or negative direction it moves in the same direction. The very strange thing is that sometimes when I start up the printer it is to the left, other times it is to the right. I am very confused by this. Debugging options that I have tried are:
Swapped the stepper driver, with the 5th un used one on the board,
flipped the orientation of the motor wire on the RAMPS from red on left to red on right and back
I did see posts about problems on the X axis and modifing the settings in the configuration.h and pins.h files (I think that was about page 5 of this thread)

I have seen some mentions of problems on the RAMPS board, but how do I go about debugging that?

And suggestions, links or help will be very apprieciated.

"Unlike all the other repraps, FT put the X homing switch on the right side, which is XMAX and not XMIN. The first thing that must be changed is to plug the X end stop into the Ramps board NEXT to the Y end stop plug and NOT skip a space. The pins to the right of the Y end stop pins is for XMAX. The one you show in your manual is for XMIN. That is at STEP 23, picture 10. “Again you are going to skip a row” is incorrect. It needs to go to the immediate right of the Y end stop plug.

Then in configuration.h in Arduino make sure that
#define INVERT_X_DIR true is CHANGED to #define INVERT_X_DIR false
AND
#define X_HOME_DIR -1 is CHANGED to #define X_HOME_DIR 1

Keep the plug for the X axis servo motor wires reversed as shown in the picture. Without an explanation, many people think that you made a mistake in the picture. Make note of the fact that the orientation of the colored wires is correct.

Finally, in Repetier, tell the user to go to printer settings/printer shape and change ‘home X’ from MIN to MAX.''
---End Quote---

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twigtree

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Did you run through all calibrations?

Yes, I have, but I'm suspecting that my Z-axis is calibrated slightly too low. I'm re calibrating it now.

You say you ran through all calibrations yet your values in the configuration.h file are all stock. What are you considering calibrations? You say that your Z was off by 3.6 mm. Was that on a calibration cube? Probably not since you are not extruding properly. Using calipers, make sure both sides of the Z axis have the X axis printed parts the exact same height from the bottom of the printed part to the top of the base. Slowly move one side until they are the same.

The first thing you need to do is make sure your extruder is calibrated to push 100 mm of filament through the extruder when you tell it to. [www.youtube.com] is an easy one to understand.

You must also level your print plate and get the nozzle 0.1 mm away from the plate in all 4 corners when it is hitting the Z axis home switch. Keep moving the switch in VERY small increments until you get close and then use your 4 screw adjustments on the bed.
Once this is calibrated and your nozzle is at the right height, THEN run a calibration cube.

Quote
Mrfus

I have being working slowly on my printer because of changes on my working schedule... I just finished to install the new belt tensioner for the extruder support but I'm thinking to take off the two bearings on the top and work on the carriage because the bearings are just a little offset so the carriage dont move as freely as should on the axis.

20151010_122655.jpg

Try just one zip tie per bearing so they can adjust themselves slightly. Mine were also not very well aligned. The printed part evidently is not very accurate. I never could 'snap' ANY of my bearings into any of the holders. The cavities are much too short for them to fit. I spent too much time with a Dremel tool 'modifying' them.

Folger is now sold on Aliexpress? I though only Chinese could sell there.

Thanks for the reply tjnamtiw. but still no luck. Here are the steps that I see as well as hopefully a better explanation of the issue:

1) Using the marlin firmware recently (Oct 11th) downloaded from the Folger 2020 google drive. I have modified the configuration.h file to read:
#define INVERT_X_DIR false
and
#define X_HOME_DIR 1

Then saved/complied uploaded to the board. Then disconnect USB so no power on arduino.

2) Verified that the motor wire is inserted with RED to the left (opposite from other connections)
3) Connected limit switch to second from right set of pins, with RED up.
4) Plug in the printer, and connect USB to computer
5) Start Repetier
6) Verify that Home X is set to MAX.
7) Connect to printer,
8) on the manual control tab, click on the move X -1 icon - head moves 1 step to left
9) Click on move X +1 head moves the the right
10) Now Click on the move -1 and rather then moving left it moves right again.

If I disconnect from repetier it will behave the same way. Basically will move left in the negative direction, until I move it right, at which point it always moves right.

As another item the X motor seems to be very hot, much hotter then the other motors, and I certainly am not doing much with it at this point. So not sure if related or not.

Quote
GravityWins
Thanks for the reply tjnamtiw. but still no luck. Here are the steps that I see as well as hopefully a better explanation of the issue:

1) Using the marlin firmware recently (Oct 11th) downloaded from the Folger 2020 google drive. I have modified the configuration.h file to read:
#define INVERT_X_DIR false
and
#define X_HOME_DIR 1

Then saved/complied uploaded to the board. Then disconnect USB so no power on arduino.

2) Verified that the motor wire is inserted with RED to the left (opposite from other connections)
3) Connected limit switch to second from right set of pins, with RED up.
4) Plug in the printer, and connect USB to computer
5) Start Repetier
6) Verify that Home X is set to MAX.
7) Connect to printer,
8) on the manual control tab, click on the move X -1 icon - head moves 1 step to left
9) Click on move X +1 head moves the the right
10) Now Click on the move -1 and rather then moving left it moves right again.

If I disconnect from repetier it will behave the same way. Basically will move left in the negative direction, until I move it right, at which point it always moves right.

As another item the X motor seems to be very hot, much hotter then the other motors, and I certainly am not doing much with it at this point. So not sure if related or not.

Did you tune your driver boards? Adjust the pot on each board to the recommend voltage?

I used the Marlin firmware posted about 2 pages back and only needed to change the end stop from 1 to -1 then change rep-host X setting from min to max. Once the was complete, tested it and it worked like it was supposed too. My X limit switch is on the left.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/11/2015 04:30PM by Mopar99.

Quote
Mopar99

Did you tune your driver boards? Adjust the pot on each board to the recommend voltage?

I used the Marlin firmware posted about 2 pages back and only needed to change the end stop from 1 to -1 then change rep-host X setting from min to max. Once the was complete, tested it and it worked like it was supposed too. My X limit switch is on the left.

Mopar99 - I did not, but while I have seen some references to voltages, I am not sure how to go about doing that. Can you point me in the right direction to do that?

Again thanks so much!

Quote
GravityWins

Quote
Mopar99

Did you tune your driver boards? Adjust the pot on each board to the recommend voltage?

I used the Marlin firmware posted about 2 pages back and only needed to change the end stop from 1 to -1 then change rep-host X setting from min to max. Once the was complete, tested it and it worked like it was supposed too. My X limit switch is on the left.

Mopar99 - I did not, but while I have seen some references to voltages, I am not sure how to go about doing that. Can you point me in the right direction to do that?

Again thanks so much!

There's a pdf in Folger Tech's Google drive from pololu that kind of explains it. You can go to pololu website and watch the video on how to. My one recommendation is to use the ground connection on the green power plug to keep from shorting out the arduino mega.

Quote
GravityWins
Thanks for the reply tjnamtiw. but still no luck. Here are the steps that I see as well as hopefully a better explanation of the issue:

1) Using the marlin firmware recently (Oct 11th) downloaded from the Folger 2020 google drive. I have modified the configuration.h file to read:
#define INVERT_X_DIR false
and
#define X_HOME_DIR 1

Then saved/complied uploaded to the board. Then disconnect USB so no power on arduino.

2) Verified that the motor wire is inserted with RED to the left (opposite from other connections)
3) Connected limit switch to second from right set of pins, with RED up.
4) Plug in the printer, and connect USB to computer
5) Start Repetier
6) Verify that Home X is set to MAX.
7) Connect to printer,
8) on the manual control tab, click on the move X -1 icon - head moves 1 step to left
9) Click on move X +1 head moves the the right
10) Now Click on the move -1 and rather then moving left it moves right again.

If I disconnect from repetier it will behave the same way. Basically will move left in the negative direction, until I move it right, at which point it always moves right.

As another item the X motor seems to be very hot, much hotter then the other motors, and I certainly am not doing much with it at this point. So not sure if related or not.

IF you put everything back the way it was in Repetier and in the config/pins files, the steps above WILL work IF you do all the steps. There's something you changed from stock somewhere. My X motor gets hot too eventhough I've dialed back the VREF on it. I'm printing a cooling fan mount for it at this moment. It still only runs 135 degrees F but hotter than the rest.

Remember in Arduino that it is 2 steps to save changes to the printer. First you hit the left most button to compile it and then hit the next button to upload it to the controller

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/11/2015 06:06PM by tjnamtiw.

What the best way to dial in the extruder?

Quote
GravityWins
Thanks for the reply tjnamtiw. but still no luck. Here are the steps that I see as well as hopefully a better explanation of the issue:

1) Using the marlin firmware recently (Oct 11th) downloaded from the Folger 2020 google drive. I have modified the configuration.h file to read:
#define INVERT_X_DIR false
and
#define X_HOME_DIR 1

Then saved/complied uploaded to the board. Then disconnect USB so no power on arduino.

2) Verified that the motor wire is inserted with RED to the left (opposite from other connections)
3) Connected limit switch to second from right set of pins, with RED up.
4) Plug in the printer, and connect USB to computer
5) Start Repetier
6) Verify that Home X is set to MAX.
7) Connect to printer,
8) on the manual control tab, click on the move X -1 icon - head moves 1 step to left
9) Click on move X +1 head moves the the right
10) Now Click on the move -1 and rather then moving left it moves right again.

If I disconnect from repetier it will behave the same way. Basically will move left in the negative direction, until I move it right, at which point it always moves right.

As another item the X motor seems to be very hot, much hotter then the other motors, and I certainly am not doing much with it at this point. So not sure if related or not.

Well I think that I have determinined that this is a problem on the RAMPS board. I got creative on the pins.h file and swapped the E1 and X axis. Then plugged my X motor into the E1 set of pins. and now my directions seem to be behaving.

Quote
Mopar99
What the best way to dial in the extruder?

[www.youtube.com]

So uh while I was printing something, the heating element and the thermistor in the hotend fell out. I'm not really sure how to proceed from here as I don't think I can just glue them back in with some superglue. Anyone have any ideas on how to make them stick in the hotend again?

Quote
twigtree
So uh while I was printing something, the heating element and the thermistor in the hotend fell out. I'm not really sure how to proceed from here as I don't think I can just glue them back in with some superglue. Anyone have any ideas on how to make them stick in the hotend again?

They are held in with set screws. If they fell out, you very well have burned out the heating element. Check it for continuity. If it reads zero, it's toast.

While I was installing the extruder I notice that the hot end is kind of crooked, I doubt that this is something really bad but I want to ask any way!



Thanks!

Position does not matter, as long as the threads are tight and the wires don't get jerked around.

For anyone who is using a Bowden feed and the z-motor risers, I made a mount for the Sainsmart Full controller - [www.thingiverse.com]



(adding some random text here since the forum software thinks I'm a bot)

---

Need help? Visit the Folgertech Wikia Page

The latest Marlin firmware with Folgertech Prusa i3 settings merged in, get it here

And check out my designs on Thingiverse, and follow me if you like what you see!

Quote
tjnamtiw

Quote
Mopar99
What the best way to dial in the extruder?

[www.youtube.com]

Question is how does one do this in rep-host? Punch in all the commands and nothing happen. I can run a print job and it will print.

Are the pla & abs profile files on folger tech worth using?

Quote
Mopar99

Question is how does one do this in rep-host? Punch in all the commands and nothing happen. I can run a print job and it will print.

Are the pla & abs profile files on folger tech worth using?

I use the PLA profiles no problems. I've upped my speeds to 60...... slowly going up.

Punching in the commands is a little tricky for some reason in Rep host. first send the G92 E0 command. I put space in between but he doesn't and it didn't work without a space in rep host. Then G1 (space) E100 (space) F90. It will show up without a space between the E100 and the G90 but leave it that way. It works for me.

OR you can use the Repetier directly with the 'manual control' and then the single down arrow under extruder 1. Drag the pointer down until it says 100 and let it go. It should extrude 100 mm. You still might need to send the G92 E0 to reset the extruder first.
Don't fret. I was pulling my hair out until I got lucky enough to find that this worked. The communication using rep host, like Tom talks about, doesn't yield the answers that he talks about though.

Once you find the correct calibration value for the extruder, you can use your LCD panel to put the value in. You don't need to hook up the USB cable to the computer. Just remember to use the SAVE step after you input it. Then once you are sure you like it, you can change the value in Config.h so it's right the next time you hook up to the printer and upload to it.

Quote
tjnamtiw

Quote
Mopar99

Question is how does one do this in rep-host? Punch in all the commands and nothing happen. I can run a print job and it will print.

Are the pla & abs profile files on folger tech worth using?

I use the PLA profiles no problems. I've upped my speeds to 60...... slowly going up.

Punching in the commands is a little tricky for some reason in Rep host. first send the G92 E0 command. I put space in between but he doesn't and it didn't work without a space in rep host. Then G1 (space) E100 (space) F90. It will show up without a space between the E100 and the G90 but leave it that way. It works for me.

OR you can use the Repetier directly with the 'manual control' and then the single down arrow under extruder 1. Drag the pointer down until it says 100 and let it go. It should extrude 100 mm. You still might need to send the G92 E0 to reset the extruder first.
Don't fret. I was pulling my hair out until I got lucky enough to find that this worked. The communication using rep host, like Tom talks about, doesn't yield the answers that he talks about though.

Once you find the correct calibration value for the extruder, you can use your LCD panel to put the value in. You don't need to hook up the USB cable to the computer. Just remember to use the SAVE step after you input it. Then once you are sure you like it, you can change the value in Config.h so it's right the next time you hook up to the printer and upload to it.

Ok that worked! And the configure.h already had the offset in it.


New question, first layer when done ok, but every layer afterwards is string?

Quote
Mopar99


Ok that worked! And the configure.h already had the offset in it.


New question, first layer when done ok, but every layer afterwards is string?

Yes, configuration.h has the line where you change the number (last one) to match the new EStep number that you computed. Did you actually mark your filament for 150 mm, perhaps, and see how much was extruded when you asked for 100 mm? What were your results?

Quote
tjnamtiw

Quote
Mopar99


Ok that worked! And the configure.h already had the offset in it.


New question, first layer when done ok, but every layer afterwards is string?

Yes, configuration.h has the line where you change the number (last one) to match the new EStep number that you computed. Did you actually mark your filament for 150 mm, perhaps, and see how much was extruded when you asked for 100 mm? What were your results?

Yes, it's 12.35

Quote
Mopar99

Quote
tjnamtiw

Quote
Mopar99

Question is how does one do this in rep-host? Punch in all the commands and nothing happen. I can run a print job and it will print.

Are the pla & abs profile files on folger tech worth using?

I use the PLA profiles no problems. I've upped my speeds to 60...... slowly going up.

Punching in the commands is a little tricky for some reason in Rep host. first send the G92 E0 command. I put space in between but he doesn't and it didn't work without a space in rep host. Then G1 (space) E100 (space) F90. It will show up without a space between the E100 and the G90 but leave it that way. It works for me.

OR you can use the Repetier directly with the 'manual control' and then the single down arrow under extruder 1. Drag the pointer down until it says 100 and let it go. It should extrude 100 mm. You still might need to send the G92 E0 to reset the extruder first.
Don't fret. I was pulling my hair out until I got lucky enough to find that this worked. The communication using rep host, like Tom talks about, doesn't yield the answers that he talks about though.

Once you find the correct calibration value for the extruder, you can use your LCD panel to put the value in. You don't need to hook up the USB cable to the computer. Just remember to use the SAVE step after you input it. Then once you are sure you like it, you can change the value in Config.h so it's right the next time you hook up to the printer and upload to it.

Ok that worked! And the configure.h already had the offset in it.


New question, first layer when done ok, but every layer afterwards is string?

What exactly are you trying to print?

Quote
therippa

Quote
Mopar99

Quote
tjnamtiw

Quote
Mopar99

Question is how does one do this in rep-host? Punch in all the commands and nothing happen. I can run a print job and it will print.

Are the pla & abs profile files on folger tech worth using?

I use the PLA profiles no problems. I've upped my speeds to 60...... slowly going up.

Punching in the commands is a little tricky for some reason in Rep host. first send the G92 E0 command. I put space in between but he doesn't and it didn't work without a space in rep host. Then G1 (space) E100 (space) F90. It will show up without a space between the E100 and the G90 but leave it that way. It works for me.

OR you can use the Repetier directly with the 'manual control' and then the single down arrow under extruder 1. Drag the pointer down until it says 100 and let it go. It should extrude 100 mm. You still might need to send the G92 E0 to reset the extruder first.
Don't fret. I was pulling my hair out until I got lucky enough to find that this worked. The communication using rep host, like Tom talks about, doesn't yield the answers that he talks about though.

Once you find the correct calibration value for the extruder, you can use your LCD panel to put the value in. You don't need to hook up the USB cable to the computer. Just remember to use the SAVE step after you input it. Then once you are sure you like it, you can change the value in Config.h so it's right the next time you hook up to the printer and upload to it.

Ok that worked! And the configure.h already had the offset in it.


New question, first layer when done ok, but every layer afterwards is string?

What exactly are you trying to print?

a cylinder with structure supports. Only file I had ready availabile. Probably should try a test cube first.

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Mopar99

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tjnamtiw

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Mopar99


Ok that worked! And the configure.h already had the offset in it.


New question, first layer when done ok, but every layer afterwards is string?

Yes, configuration.h has the line where you change the number (last one) to match the new EStep number that you computed. Did you actually mark your filament for 150 mm, perhaps, and see how much was extruded when you asked for 100 mm? What were your results?

Yes, it's 12.35

12.35???? Are you saying that the number you replaced the 90 with in "#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80,80,3950,99}" (my settings) was 12.35? I don't think so. What was 12.35?

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tjnamtiw

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Mopar99

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tjnamtiw

Quote
Mopar99


Ok that worked! And the configure.h already had the offset in it.


New question, first layer when done ok, but every layer afterwards is string?

Yes, configuration.h has the line where you change the number (last one) to match the new EStep number that you computed. Did you actually mark your filament for 150 mm, perhaps, and see how much was extruded when you asked for 100 mm? What were your results?

Yes, it's 12.35

12.35???? Are you saying that the number you replaced the 90 with in "#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80,80,3950,99}" (my settings) was 12.35? I don't think so. What was 12.35?

Sorry, that the off set from the feed of the 100 mm

What kind of fan mount do you use on your FT prusa to cool the PLA filament?

I have done some searching on the Thingiverse and I got some ideas from a couple of designs, but maybe I'm overthinking the design and there is already a solution on the cyberspace!!!!

---

Mr.Fus
<------------------------------------------------->
Green M3D (Running v.1.3.6.3Beta)
FolgerTech Prusa i3 (2020 Frame)
<------------------------------------------------>

I am having a heck of a time with a model that requires a lot of retraction and supports. I cant seem to get the retraction amount right no matter how I change it. What is everyones retraction settings in Cura that comes with rep-host?

Quote
Mrfus
What kind of fan mount do you use on your FT prusa to cool the PLA filament?

I have done some searching on the Thingiverse and I got some ideas from a couple of designs, but maybe I'm overthinking the design and there is already a solution on the cyberspace!!!!

I don't use anything! I don't understand WHY I would want to. I extrude at 190 C and I would want each layer to bond to the next while they are still hot. Cooling it would be counterproductive IMHO. Maybe it's different with ABS, but I have avoided that hassle so far. I get a good bond with each layer, I get very minimal stringing, and there's no evidence of over extruding or sagging of the layers.

Maybe someone can enlighten me. Perhaps it's for very intricate forms.

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Mopar99

Sorry, that the off set from the feed of the 100 mm

Ok. So was it that much less than 100 or that much more? And then what did you get for your EStep number after applying that correction in the formula? (100/Actual mm)*90.