Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread)

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therippa

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sethmo
Therippa,
I installed your extruder with my e3dv6 last night. After bolting it together, I noticed that my e3dv6 is not perpendicular to the bed, it is at a slight angle. I am going to try to shim it and adjust the bed level after work, but I think it will work out great.

WLh6oXl.jpg

REa06vu.jpg

Mine does that too, it's the x-carriage we're using, not the extruder

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markts
I'm so embarrassed.

I've been printing up a storm with parts for my quadcopter, replacement parts for the printer, trinkets, etc. The prints have been getting better as I've tweaked things.

Until I printed the fan duct for a second extruder fan. I think my prints are mirrored. Back to square one. lol.

For all those posts I flew by from people asking about X and Y-min, direction, I'm now humbled that I have to visit them.

If I print something with text on it and my prints are mirrored around the Y axis, should I expect the letters to be mirrored? I think I printed something with letters and it came out fine (will try again tonight).

Any good calibration things on Thingiverse to highlight errors in mirroring?

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Keary123
Quick question.

I had auto bed leveling setup and running using the supplied Z end-stop switch. I am looking to change out the end-stop with a more precise micro-switch.
I was wondering if anyone has used the micro-switch and what connections they wired to the ramps board.
The switch has "C" which i am guessing is signal, "NO" normally open, and "NC" normally closed.

Thanks for the help.

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Mach

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photo444

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Mach

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photo444
Hi All,

I have been watching this forum with excitement for a while and now I have one built and it still is in its tuning/adjusting sessions. When I was printing lower-profile objects all was OK but when z axis reaches more than 10 cm the motor misses steps. I found out that the left side guide rod and the threaded rod are NOT parallel at all; the spacing at the motor mount between the hardened rod and the stepper axis is far less than the distance between the guiding rod and the threaded rod of the left side x gantry.

Did anyone have this kind of trouble? Is there any quick fix?

Thank you in advance for any suggestions.

Paul

I think all of the printer kits that FT give come with acrylic rod holders that are not cut properly. On my printer, the misalignment does not become troublesome until it moves to the last 1cm near the top, so I am thinking something was not installed properly, or the holders that FT gives with their kits have become even worse. I may make a stl model with the proper measurements to fix the alignment issues with this printer. Let me know if it is desperately needed, I may expedite getting around to doing that if so.

Hi Mach,

Thanks for your reply. I think it is good idea to modify the "rod holding plate". I am now waiting for filaments to come in for any more prints. I will measure necessary modification and let you know.

Added: The center-center distance of the guide rod (8mm) and the stepper axis is 17.0 mm

Here it is. Rod holding plate. I made the holes to hopefully have the right tolerances, but if anything does not quite fit properly, I can make some quick adjustments.

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tpb0420
quick question. Im trying out cura but i cant get the z axis to lower like in slicer after g29 command. I have tried G1, M212, and G92. What am I doing wrong.

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mizelly41
I am having an issue that I can't figure out.

I am getting great quality parts. On the very last 'Y' move of the print, it seems to move in the wrong direction. Since this is the very last move, it doesn't really cause too much of an issue. Usually just extrudes some plastic in mid air. Also after it completes this moves, which also completes the print, it has an issue moving back to the Y home. Instead of stopping at the switch, it tries to drive through it.

Any ideas?

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photo444
Mach,

The piece was installed; It helped but needs more. As you see in the picture the angle is still large. I could not go to this height before. The center to center distance should be 18 mm. Could you please draw STL file once more for me? The overall size can be little larger perhaps by 1 mm.

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built350camaro
Need some help here guys. I want to have my printer to print a line from the home corner to the print area. I cant figure out the gcode to make it do it.

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Mach

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photo444
Mach,

The piece was installed; It helped but needs more. As you see in the picture the angle is still large. I could not go to this height before. The center to center distance should be 18 mm. Could you please draw STL file once more for me? The overall size can be little larger perhaps by 1 mm.

Here is the piece 18mm and 19mm between centers. let me know which one works, and I will update the one on thingiverse. I also brought out the sides abit.

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Keary123
Quick question.

I had auto bed leveling setup and running using the supplied Z end-stop switch. I am looking to change out the end-stop with a more precise micro-switch.
I was wondering if anyone has used the micro-switch and what connections they wired to the ramps board.
The switch has "C" which i am guessing is signal, "NO" normally open, and "NC" normally closed.

Thanks for the help.

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therippa

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mizelly41
I am having an issue that I can't figure out.

I am getting great quality parts. On the very last 'Y' move of the print, it seems to move in the wrong direction. Since this is the very last move, it doesn't really cause too much of an issue. Usually just extrudes some plastic in mid air. Also after it completes this moves, which also completes the print, it has an issue moving back to the Y home. Instead of stopping at the switch, it tries to drive through it.

Any ideas?

Read animoose's blog, I think he had some ending gcode that fixes this problem (something to do with memory buffers, I can't remember because it was months ago).

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sonnylowe

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built350camaro
Need some help here guys. I want to have my printer to print a line from the home corner to the print area. I cant figure out the gcode to make it do it.

Writing G-Code to get the printer to lay down a bead of filament is pretty easy, but I'm not sure how you'd get it to do that on it's way to the starting point of the print (if I'm reading your request correctly). For example, my printer runs a bead of filament (from both extruders) across the front of the print bed after G29 but prior to starting the actual print.

If you know of a printer that does this move already I can load that profile (if available) into S3D and get you the G-Code...

Just curious, why you want your printer to make this move...

Sonny

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srcga
Those of you with leadscrews and Z motor standoffs.. what's your max print height?

Just did this bad boy, arbitrarily scaled down, got lucky as I never really measured. Comes in at 6.5" / 165MM . I have leadscrews and the motor standoffs.

Last print before I mount up the e3d v6 and therippas' extruder

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built350camaro

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sonnylowe

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built350camaro
Need some help here guys. I want to have my printer to print a line from the home corner to the print area. I cant figure out the gcode to make it do it.

Writing G-Code to get the printer to lay down a bead of filament is pretty easy, but I'm not sure how you'd get it to do that on it's way to the starting point of the print (if I'm reading your request correctly). For example, my printer runs a bead of filament (from both extruders) across the front of the print bed after G29 but prior to starting the actual print.

If you know of a printer that does this move already I can load that profile (if available) into S3D and get you the G-Code...

Just curious, why you want your printer to make this move...

Sonny

I would be fine with it printing a line like you said. I am wanting it to print a little before it prints the part because if I print something small it doesn't prime enough with a skirt (unless it is crazy amounts of loops) and then it messes up the bottom layer.

G28 ; home all axes
G90; absolute coordinates
G1 Z0.05 ; move nozzle close to bed
M140 S[first_layer_bed_temperature] ; start heating bed
M109 S[first_layer_temperature] ; heat nozzle and wait until reached
M190 S[first_layer_bed_temperature] ; wait for bed temperature
M82 ; use absolute distances for extruder
G92 E0 ; zero the extruder position
G1 X200 Y0 Z.35 F900;
G1 X175 Y0 Z.15 E5 F225;
G1 X175 Y25 Z5 F3600;
M400 ; wait until we get there
G92 E0 ; zero the extruder position

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animoose
As there have been a couple of recent posting about start G code, here is mine. A couple of comments on it: it starts heating the bed and the extruder at the same time, though due to a pecularity of Repetier, it doesn't display the temperature of the bed until the extruder is up to temperature. The LCD shows it correctly. And then it draws a L-shape with the second part of the L rising into the air. I forget who posted this trick originally, and I find it helps to clear any ooze off the nozzle, while usually giving a clean start to the skirt (though this does vary a little with the filament and exact temperature settings).

G28 ; home all axes
G90; absolute coordinates
G1 Z0.05 ; move nozzle close to bed
M140 S[first_layer_bed_temperature] ; start heating bed
M109 S[first_layer_temperature] ; heat nozzle and wait until reached
M190 S[first_layer_bed_temperature] ; wait for bed temperature
M82 ; use absolute distances for extruder
G92 E0 ; zero the extruder position
G1 X200 Y0 Z.35 F900;
G1 X175 Y0 Z.15 E5 F225;
G1 X175 Y25 Z5 F3600;
M400 ; wait until we get there
G92 E0 ; zero the extruder position

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therippa

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animoose
As there have been a couple of recent posting about start G code, here is mine. A couple of comments on it: it starts heating the bed and the extruder at the same time, though due to a pecularity of Repetier, it doesn't display the temperature of the bed until the extruder is up to temperature. The LCD shows it correctly. And then it draws a L-shape with the second part of the L rising into the air. I forget who posted this trick originally, and I find it helps to clear any ooze off the nozzle, while usually giving a clean start to the skirt (though this does vary a little with the filament and exact temperature settings).

G28 ; home all axes
G90; absolute coordinates
G1 Z0.05 ; move nozzle close to bed
M140 S[first_layer_bed_temperature] ; start heating bed
M109 S[first_layer_temperature] ; heat nozzle and wait until reached
M190 S[first_layer_bed_temperature] ; wait for bed temperature
M82 ; use absolute distances for extruder
G92 E0 ; zero the extruder position
G1 X200 Y0 Z.35 F900;
G1 X175 Y0 Z.15 E5 F225;
G1 X175 Y25 Z5 F3600;
M400 ; wait until we get there
G92 E0 ; zero the extruder position

The folks at Simplify3d are the ones who gave me the L-motion trick, you should try out their software

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therippa
The folks at Simplify3d are the ones who gave me the L-motion trick, you should try out their software

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built350camaro

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srcga
Those of you with leadscrews and Z motor standoffs.. what's your max print height?

Just did this bad boy, arbitrarily scaled down, got lucky as I never really measured. Comes in at 6.5" / 165MM . I have leadscrews and the motor standoffs.

Last print before I mount up the e3d v6 and therippas' extruder

I am not running lead screws yet but it still works great with the threaded rods. My build height is around 165mm too. I thought about making some spacers for the rod holders at the bottom to get a bit more build height but I haven't needed more height yet.

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built350camaro

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sonnylowe

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built350camaro
Need some help here guys. I want to have my printer to print a line from the home corner to the print area. I cant figure out the gcode to make it do it.

Writing G-Code to get the printer to lay down a bead of filament is pretty easy, but I'm not sure how you'd get it to do that on it's way to the starting point of the print (if I'm reading your request correctly). For example, my printer runs a bead of filament (from both extruders) across the front of the print bed after G29 but prior to starting the actual print.

If you know of a printer that does this move already I can load that profile (if available) into S3D and get you the G-Code...

Just curious, why you want your printer to make this move...

Sonny

I would be fine with it printing a line like you said. I am wanting it to print a little before it prints the part because if I print something small it doesn't prime enough with a skirt (unless it is crazy amounts of loops) and then it messes up the bottom layer.

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animoose
As there have been a couple of recent posting about start G code, here is mine. A couple of comments on it: it starts heating the bed and the extruder at the same time, though due to a pecularity of Repetier, it doesn't display the temperature of the bed until the extruder is up to temperature. The LCD shows it correctly. And then it draws a L-shape with the second part of the L rising into the air. I forget who posted this trick originally, and I find it helps to clear any ooze off the nozzle, while usually giving a clean start to the skirt (though this does vary a little with the filament and exact temperature settings).

G28 ; home all axes
G90; absolute coordinates
G1 Z0.05 ; move nozzle close to bed
M140 S[first_layer_bed_temperature] ; start heating bed
M109 S[first_layer_temperature] ; heat nozzle and wait until reached
M190 S[first_layer_bed_temperature] ; wait for bed temperature
M82 ; use absolute distances for extruder
G92 E0 ; zero the extruder position
G1 X200 Y0 Z.35 F900;
G1 X175 Y0 Z.15 E5 F225;
G1 X175 Y25 Z5 F3600;
M400 ; wait until we get there
G92 E0 ; zero the extruder position

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built350camaro

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animoose
As there have been a couple of recent posting about start G code, here is mine. A couple of comments on it: it starts heating the bed and the extruder at the same time, though due to a pecularity of Repetier, it doesn't display the temperature of the bed until the extruder is up to temperature. The LCD shows it correctly. And then it draws a L-shape with the second part of the L rising into the air. I forget who posted this trick originally, and I find it helps to clear any ooze off the nozzle, while usually giving a clean start to the skirt (though this does vary a little with the filament and exact temperature settings).

G28 ; home all axes
G90; absolute coordinates
G1 Z0.05 ; move nozzle close to bed
M140 S[first_layer_bed_temperature] ; start heating bed
M109 S[first_layer_temperature] ; heat nozzle and wait until reached
M190 S[first_layer_bed_temperature] ; wait for bed temperature
M82 ; use absolute distances for extruder
G92 E0 ; zero the extruder position
G1 X200 Y0 Z.35 F900;
G1 X175 Y0 Z.15 E5 F225;
G1 X175 Y25 Z5 F3600;
M400 ; wait until we get there
G92 E0 ; zero the extruder position

That worked great I just removed the M140 M109 and M190 since I usually heat the be before it starts any of the g-code.