Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread)

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sonnylowe

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UltiFix

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animoose

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UltiFix
Looking over your blog it looks like you ran into a lot of issues, I wouldn't really call that easy
After it was all said and done, how much did you spend in replacement parts?
What was the total?

I might have made it sound harder than it was. Looking back, it doesn't seem so difficult :-)

Regarding replacements: the only thing I had to replace was the RAMPS+Mega, and that was I think around $30. Everything else I've done has been through choice. In total, I've probably spent an extra $150-$200, but that includes a second Mega, an E3D hotend, leadscrews in place of threaded rods as part of the Z rebuild, some better quality LM8UU bearings, a new extruder mechanism (only $5, and the same as the one that Folger now supply) and a replacement 40mm fan.

Not trying to bash this printer or anything, and im sure you learned alot through the procces you have gone through. But wouldn't it have been cheaper to just get a nicer printer right away? Im just trying to decide if I should go cheap as can be *this printer* or a bit nicer one. Like this one "http://wanhaousa.com/products/duplicator-i3-steel-frame" Not sure what to do.

I can't imagine enjoying a pre-built printer any were near as much as I've enjoyed putting this kit together, running it and modifying it. Many people have built this kit and run it bone stock with great results, hell I was getting near perfect prints stock...I upgraded as much for the "love" of it, as to build a better printer. If you buy pre-built you learn nothing about the printer, how it assembles, how it works, why it works, you just download some stuff, pick from a couple options, and push print. I'm not saying it's a bad thing, it's not, it's just not the direction I wanted to go in...

I think most people here (like myself) will be bias to this printer (I simply love it)!!! I'm not sure you're going to find an answer here...so it really just boils down to what you want

Did you buy yours more recent? So some of the kinks have been worked out of it?
Also did you find any hiccups in the directions? To setup this thing does it require alot of software setup?

Ultifix,

I don't think you can make a bad decision here. I've heard great things about the wanhao printer, and personally, I think you probably get more for your money going that road.

On the other side, the Folger Tech printer is much closer to the RepRap DIY philosophy. I initially started out assembling a BOM spreadsheet, and went on eBay to source all the parts. I quickly realized I could get all the parts from FolgerTech for about $50 cheaper than I could getting one part at a time. That's why I bought the FT printer.

I think it comes down to the experience you want from your printer. Is it the destination or the journey? The FT kit contains fairly basic upgradeable parts. Any part you don't like you can upgrade by purchasing off eBay or printing yourself. The same may also be true of the wanhao, but I suspect that most people who buy a prebuilt kit are less inclined to tinker than the DIYselfers.

You mention being into RC. Are you more of a ARFer (almost ready to fly) or build it yourself person? I'm not saying one is better than the other, but that question should help you decide which to buy. No, the FT kit isn't easy, but that is part of the fun...

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animoose

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Mach

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animoose
Right now I am thinking about building a CoreXY printer from scratch for the same reason of interest in the process of building it, and I would not have considered that if I hadn't learned so much by building and modifying the Folger.

Did I hear someone say Corexy printer? I was recently in the process of making a custom one myself. I finished designing and modeling it, but then tallied the cost to make it and found out I could not really afford it right now, lol. How large of a build volume are you planning on, and do you plan on keeping your current printer once you have the corexy built? I plan on using as many of the parts from my FT printer, and then disassembling the rest after I have printed all of the parts I would need.

I'm really just at the first stages of thinking about it, and I haven't really decided what I want to do. I'd love to see your design. The G&C printer (see some of the other forums) looks like a nice starting point to me. I would probably keep both, but use the Folger to print the parts for the CoreXY (though I do now have access to a Taz at work, so this isn't essential).

Here are a few pics of the model. I might redesign some of the part on the printer, but most of them I am satisfied with.

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elkayem
Ultifix,

I don't think you can make a bad decision here. I've heard great things about the wanhao printer, and personally, I think you probably get more for your money going that road.

On the other side, the Folger Tech printer is much closer to the RepRap DIY philosophy. I initially started out assembling a BOM spreadsheet, and went on eBay to source all the parts. I quickly realized I could get all the parts from FolgerTech for about $50 cheaper than I could getting one part at a time. That's why I bought the FT printer.

I think it comes down to the experience you want from your printer. Is it the destination or the journey? The FT kit contains fairly basic upgradeable parts. Any part you don't like you can upgrade by purchasing off eBay or printing yourself. The same may also be true of the wanhao, but I suspect that most people who buy a prebuilt kit are less inclined to tinker than the DIYselfers.

You mention being into RC. Are you more of a ARFer (almost ready to fly) or build it yourself person? I'm not saying one is better than the other, but that question should help you decide which to buy. No, the FT kit isn't easy, but that is part of the fun...

I bought a rtf to get into it, then built my own, then had to mostly rebuild the entire rtf. So a mixture. Im looking around and trying to see how cheaply I can get a Duplicator I3, it seems like there are sales on them alot. If I can get one for 300-350 I think I might go for it. I mean the duplicator I3 is also upgradeable...

What I don't like about the folger tech printer is it's not all steel, the mounts are acrylic.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/17/2016 01:41AM by UltiFix.

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UltiFix

What I don't like about the folger tech printer is it's not all steel, the mounts are acrylic.

The only acrylic in my i3 2020 are the part to mount the control board, and the alignment part for the z axis on the steppers.
Neither part has any reason to be anything more than acrylic.

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UltiFix

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animoose

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UltiFix
Looking over your blog it looks like you ran into a lot of issues, I wouldn't really call that easy
After it was all said and done, how much did you spend in replacement parts?
What was the total?

I might have made it sound harder than it was. Looking back, it doesn't seem so difficult :-)

Regarding replacements: the only thing I had to replace was the RAMPS+Mega, and that was I think around $30. Everything else I've done has been through choice. In total, I've probably spent an extra $150-$200, but that includes a second Mega, an E3D hotend, leadscrews in place of threaded rods as part of the Z rebuild, some better quality LM8UU bearings, a new extruder mechanism (only $5, and the same as the one that Folger now supply) and a replacement 40mm fan.

Not trying to bash this printer or anything, and im sure you learned alot through the procces you have gone through. But wouldn't it have been cheaper to just get a nicer printer right away? Im just trying to decide if I should go cheap as can be *this printer* or a bit nicer one. Like this one "http://wanhaousa.com/products/duplicator-i3-steel-frame" Not sure what to do.

You look at the 150-200 he has spent as getting closer to the cost of a more expensive machine, but fail to realize you would still need 80 bucks to get the e3d v6 head. And still have crappy bearings. The printers that are only a hundred or two more really only give you cosmetic things, almost all of which you could print yourself for pennies on the dollar.
I almost got the wanha, but I really couldn't figure out what the extra hundred bucks was getting me besides assembly and a pretty box.

Installed my buildtak and alu bed yesterday, Wow this stuff is amazing. Best upgrade I've made. It just works every time!

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UltiFix

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sonnylowe

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UltiFix

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animoose

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UltiFix
Looking over your blog it looks like you ran into a lot of issues, I wouldn't really call that easy
After it was all said and done, how much did you spend in replacement parts?
What was the total?

I might have made it sound harder than it was. Looking back, it doesn't seem so difficult :-)

Regarding replacements: the only thing I had to replace was the RAMPS+Mega, and that was I think around $30. Everything else I've done has been through choice. In total, I've probably spent an extra $150-$200, but that includes a second Mega, an E3D hotend, leadscrews in place of threaded rods as part of the Z rebuild, some better quality LM8UU bearings, a new extruder mechanism (only $5, and the same as the one that Folger now supply) and a replacement 40mm fan.

Not trying to bash this printer or anything, and im sure you learned alot through the procces you have gone through. But wouldn't it have been cheaper to just get a nicer printer right away? Im just trying to decide if I should go cheap as can be *this printer* or a bit nicer one. Like this one "http://wanhaousa.com/products/duplicator-i3-steel-frame" Not sure what to do.

I can't imagine enjoying a pre-built printer any were near as much as I've enjoyed putting this kit together, running it and modifying it. Many people have built this kit and run it bone stock with great results, hell I was getting near perfect prints stock...I upgraded as much for the "love" of it, as to build a better printer. If you buy pre-built you learn nothing about the printer, how it assembles, how it works, why it works, you just download some stuff, pick from a couple options, and push print. I'm not saying it's a bad thing, it's not, it's just not the direction I wanted to go in...

I think most people here (like myself) will be bias to this printer (I simply love it)!!! I'm not sure you're going to find an answer here...so it really just boils down to what you want

Yea, I know im gonna get biased results.
I know what you mean about building your own, im into the RC hobby and I do self builds, its fun!
Im just not sure if buying something this cheap is a good idea. Also I didn't mention this yet but my friend gave me an old broken down partially assembled prusia 2, and I was going to fix it up, but I don't know nearly enough yet. So do you think building a printer will help me learn how they work? And maybe give me enough knowledge to fix up the old one?

Building the FT printer will give you the basic knowledge of how these printers works, so yes, I'd say you'd learn enough to fix the old one

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UltiFix

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sonnylowe

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UltiFix

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animoose

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UltiFix
Looking over your blog it looks like you ran into a lot of issues, I wouldn't really call that easy
After it was all said and done, how much did you spend in replacement parts?
What was the total?

I might have made it sound harder than it was. Looking back, it doesn't seem so difficult :-)

Regarding replacements: the only thing I had to replace was the RAMPS+Mega, and that was I think around $30. Everything else I've done has been through choice. In total, I've probably spent an extra $150-$200, but that includes a second Mega, an E3D hotend, leadscrews in place of threaded rods as part of the Z rebuild, some better quality LM8UU bearings, a new extruder mechanism (only $5, and the same as the one that Folger now supply) and a replacement 40mm fan.

Not trying to bash this printer or anything, and im sure you learned alot through the procces you have gone through. But wouldn't it have been cheaper to just get a nicer printer right away? Im just trying to decide if I should go cheap as can be *this printer* or a bit nicer one. Like this one "http://wanhaousa.com/products/duplicator-i3-steel-frame" Not sure what to do.

I can't imagine enjoying a pre-built printer any were near as much as I've enjoyed putting this kit together, running it and modifying it. Many people have built this kit and run it bone stock with great results, hell I was getting near perfect prints stock...I upgraded as much for the "love" of it, as to build a better printer. If you buy pre-built you learn nothing about the printer, how it assembles, how it works, why it works, you just download some stuff, pick from a couple options, and push print. I'm not saying it's a bad thing, it's not, it's just not the direction I wanted to go in...

I think most people here (like myself) will be bias to this printer (I simply love it)!!! I'm not sure you're going to find an answer here...so it really just boils down to what you want

Did you buy yours more recent? So some of the kinks have been worked out of it?
Also did you find any hiccups in the directions? To setup this thing does it require alot of software setup?

I bought mine in August, and the instructions were okay (I think there is a link in this tread to better instructions!?!?), they got me by without any real issues, it did take a little mechanical knowledge and common since though, all of which you most likely have if you build RC kits.

Mine ran right out of the box, following the instruction for setup (firmware). I have now though gained enough knowledge to merge my own FT version of Marlin (enough understand what most of it means), add other things like Auto Leveling. If you take the time to read the over the last month or so of post I think you'd find answers to most of the questions you'd have...

I think elkayem post is spot on!!! RTF or Kit...that's the bottom line

Edit: You should also keep maintenance and repair in mind, they are both necessities in 3D Printing. If you build a kit (any kit) you will already know how it works, and that will make repairs and troubleshooting much easier. There are a lot of nice kits out there, more so than it seemed when I got my FT, do your research and pick one you like

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/17/2016 11:27AM by sonnylowe.

Ultifix, there might be another way to look at this decision. I bought the 2020 FT, because I wasn't sure how much I'd actually use a printer. I figured that for the $300 or so, it was worth it to put one together and see what I thought at that point. Here's what happened, the build mechanically is very simple and intuitive. If you have problems, they are most likely related to setting up the software or minor electronics issues, which are usually solved in this forum's history. Once you start printing, you will see more little issues, also usually solved in this forum. By the time you are getting good prints, you will have way more than $300 worth of knowledge and investment in your self. That's always worth it. But you'll have a decent printer too and maybe some new online friends.

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LancelotL
[attachment 69944 image.jpeg]This is probably the coolest thing I have printed so far. The files are available on Thingiverse. The base was printed using 0.1 mm layer and the letters came out great. The rod was printed using a raft. I polished the teeth with some acetone.

I agree, this is a pretty cool model. I printed one out last weekend for my desk at work, and it quickly disappeared off my printer and into my daughter's room before the printer had even cooled! I just finished printing the second one so we can both have one. I haven't polished the teeth yet, so Mr T still requires a little dental work.

This model prints very easily. It does not require any supports. I printed both in PLA with no supports, nor rafts, with 20% infill. To keep the quality at its highest, I printed at 0.15 mm layer height, and slowed the speed down to a crawl at 15 mm/sec for the outer layer (60 for inside). Probably overkill. It took 24 hours to print, but was worth the wait. It does go up to nearly 15 cm height, so you'll need to make sure your printer operates at those heights.

Here is the final product:

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Davewerld
Ultifix, there might be another way to look at this decision. I bought the 2020 FT, because I wasn't sure how much I'd actually use a printer. I figured that for the $300 or so, it was worth it to put one together and see what I thought at that point. Here's what happened, the build mechanically is very simple and intuitive. If you have problems, they are most likely related to setting up the software or minor electronics issues, which are usually solved in this forum's history. Once you start printing, you will see more little issues, also usually solved in this forum. By the time you are getting good prints, you will have way more than $300 worth of knowledge and investment in your self. That's always worth it. But you'll have a decent printer too and maybe some new online friends.

Im starting to lean this way... For $270 its cheap. Its more in my price range than the other printer... This thread is tiny compared to the 3000+ pages of the rcgroups froums. Would I gain a lot of knowledge reading through the whole thread? (This thread )

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/17/2016 12:51PM by UltiFix.

Does this printer come with self levelling now?
Also is this printer easy to get squared up?
Is this printer capable of abs? Im planning to use mostly abs.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/17/2016 12:50PM by UltiFix.

So the instructions are incomplete?
[drive.google.com]
Missing the endstops?

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UltiFix
So the instructions are incomplete?
[drive.google.com]
Missing the endstops?

The instructions are not the greatest, but will get you 95% of the way there, and you have a community of users right here on this forum to help with any stumbling blocks. There are a few things that most users do beyond the instructions, like upgrading the firmware to the latest version of Marlin, and moving the X endstop to the left side, especially for those interested in auto-bed leveling. And since you're interested in leveling, the printer doesn't come with it but it is a very easy upgrade.

Speaking of bad instructions... and since you're into RC... I picked up a radio transmitter for my quad a few weeks ago, and the manual was so bad it left me in tears from laughing. Fortunately, there were plenty of online resources for me to learn the basics of programming my radio. I've attached a page from this manual, just for laughs. Here's an excerpt:

Mix purpose to accuse of form to get rid of little mistake of organism, make it is it can take the heart conveniently even more to have not to handle. The very wanton one mixes accusing of among the channel.

So... as bad as the FT2020 instructions are, there is still a long way to go to hit rock bottom.

I've ordered the Folger Tech RepRap 2020 Prusa i3 Full Aluminum 3D Printer Kit but the basement I want to put it in is fairly cool basement. In reading the forums, it sounds like temperature is fairly important for build quality so I want to build a cover for the printer (also to help keep little kids fingers out). Has anybody run across any plans (or laser cut schematics) for building a cover for this printer. I'd like to build something nice looking; i.e. a wood frame with glass/Plexi windows

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/17/2016 05:09PM by chking.

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elkayem

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UltiFix
So the instructions are incomplete?
[drive.google.com]
Missing the endstops?

The instructions are not the greatest, but will get you 95% of the way there, and you have a community of users right here on this forum to help with any stumbling blocks. There are a few things that most users do beyond the instructions, like upgrading the firmware to the latest version of Marlin, and moving the X endstop to the left side, especially for those interested in auto-bed leveling. And since you're interested in leveling, the printer doesn't come with it but it is a very easy upgrade.

Speaking of bad instructions... and since you're into RC... I picked up a radio transmitter for my quad a few weeks ago, and the manual was so bad it left me in tears from laughing. Fortunately, there were plenty of online resources for me to learn the basics of programming my radio. I've attached a page from this manual, just for laughs. Here's an excerpt:

Mix purpose to accuse of form to get rid of little mistake of organism, make it is it can take the heart conveniently even more to have not to handle. The very wanton one mixes accusing of among the channel.

So... as bad as the FT2020 instructions are, there is still a long way to go to hit rock bottom.

LOL, we call some of the manuals "chenglish"

On another note, I think ill be ordering this printer soon.. Hopefully today or tomarrow. If i get stuck please help me
But before I order it, are there any other printers I should consider? Or is this the one

P.S. What quads do ya fly? I run a CX-20/Nova (which has been pretty much rebuilt) and a custom F330. I have a taranis to

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/17/2016 03:34PM by UltiFix.

I have been following this thread for some time. I'm now ready to buy my kit. I wanna do several upgrades especially the y and x axis that sonnylowe did. I then ran across this
[www.3dprintersonlinestore.com] printer and was wondering if it would essentially be the same as the Folger tech with the upgrades.

Edit: Fixed wrong link.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/17/2016 04:11PM by Chrisryn.

Delete double post.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/17/2016 04:08PM by Chrisryn.

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UltiFix
P.S. What quads do ya fly? I run a CX-20/Nova (which has been pretty much rebuilt) and a custom F330. I have a taranis to

3D printed, of course! See the picture below. Search for "Crossfire 2" on Thingiverse, and you can see the frame I printed. The flight computer is a BeagleBone Black linux computer running the ArduCopter software. The antenna was for a 90s era 72 MHz FM radio, before I upgraded my radio to the 2.4 GHz radio I mentioned in an earlier post.

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Chrisryn
I have been following this thread for some time. I'm now ready to buy my kit. I wanna do several upgrades especially the y and x axis that sonnylowe did. I then ran across this
[www.3dprintersonlinestore.com] printer and was wondering if it would essentially be the same as the Folger tech with the upgrades.

Edit: Fixed wrong link.

The frame looks a lot less rigid to me which will make it more prone to vibration and misalignment.

---

See my blog at [moosteria.blogspot.com].

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animoose

The frame looks a lot less rigid to me which will make it more prone to vibration and misalignment.

I was thinking samething nothing a square 2020 frame underneath could fix. I'm not sure if I like the Z axis not running the linear rods.

Planning on getting this printer, is this the right one?
[folgertech.com]

Thanks guys! Hopefully once I get it it goes together well!

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UltiFix
Planning on getting this printer, is this the right one?
[folgertech.com]

Thanks guys! Hopefully once I get it it goes together well!

That's the one. Good luck and let us know how it goes.

---

See my blog at [moosteria.blogspot.com].

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animoose

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UltiFix
Planning on getting this printer, is this the right one?
[folgertech.com]

Thanks guys! Hopefully once I get it it goes together well!

That's the one. Good luck and let us know how it goes.

Before I order it,
1. having a rigid frame is really important to me
2. as well as printing abs
3. Also how does this communicate with my pc? Do I need special (or expensive) software? Or an expensive cable?

Thanks!
Sam

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/17/2016 05:40PM by UltiFix.

The frame is definitely rigid. A few people have added extra corner brackets, but I don't think it is necessary. I have not used ABS (the hottest I've gone is for PETG). Again, there are people on the forum who have used ABS, and I think some of them found it necessary to put the printer in an enclosure. I live in Southern California, so ambient temperature isn't usually a problem.

---

See my blog at [moosteria.blogspot.com].

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animoose
The frame is definitely rigid. A few people have added extra corner brackets, but I don't think it is necessary. I have not used ABS (the hottest I've gone is for PETG). Again, there are people on the forum who have used ABS, and I think some of them found it necessary to put the printer in an enclosure. I live in Southern California, so ambient temperature isn't usually a problem.

Really an enclosure? That might be a deal breaker
Can anybody that print's abs comment on this?

Think ill be able to print abs between 67 and 75 ambient temp?

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elkayem

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LancelotL
[attachment 69944 image.jpeg]This is probably the coolest thing I have printed so far. The files are available on Thingiverse. The base was printed using 0.1 mm layer and the letters came out great. The rod was printed using a raft. I polished the teeth with some acetone.

I agree, this is a pretty cool model. I printed one out last weekend for my desk at work, and it quickly disappeared off my printer and into my daughter's room before the printer had even cooled! I just finished printing the second one so we can both have one. I haven't polished the teeth yet, so Mr T still requires a little dental work.

This model prints very easily. It does not require any supports. I printed both in PLA with no supports, nor rafts, with 20% infill. To keep the quality at its highest, I printed at 0.15 mm layer height, and slowed the speed down to a crawl at 15 mm/sec for the outer layer (60 for inside). Probably overkill. It took 24 hours to print, but was worth the wait. It does go up to nearly 15 cm height, so you'll need to make sure your printer operates at those heights.

Here is the final product:
[attachment 70050 IMG_0946.JPG]

It would be great if we could have the whole model. Makerbot only sells it in their proprietary format.

---

Newbie with Folgertech 2020 i3.

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elkayem

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UltiFix
P.S. What quads do ya fly? I run a CX-20/Nova (which has been pretty much rebuilt) and a custom F330. I have a taranis to

3D printed, of course! See the picture below. Search for "Crossfire 2" on Thingiverse, and you can see the frame I printed. The flight computer is a BeagleBone Black linux computer running the ArduCopter software. The antenna was for a 90s era 72 MHz FM radio, before I upgraded my radio to the 2.4 GHz radio I mentioned in an earlier post.

I'm another RC Quad guy, More mini quad fpv racing tho.

Running a TSX220, BlackBolt XBR220 and an Armattan F1-4B 180