Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread)

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UltiFix

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Boffster

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sonnylowe
This is great advice, maybe we should add a trouble shooting section to the Wikia Page!?!?

I think would be a huge benefit to have a definitive build guide and configuration.h that the majority agree on that we can point people to (here and from the wiki), that way everyone will have the same setup and same config starting out. E.g. Endstops on Min and Stepper cables all connected the same way round.
That should help with 90% of the problems people seem to be having.

I have the printer coming, and once I get the printer up and running i will move my endstop to the left (With an upgraded adapter), but currently I have no idea where to put the endstop on the right.

upgrading the hot end to a e3d v6 is the best thing I've done to my printer.... didn't go with the light version. had to modify the ft molded black part to make it work.

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UltiFix
I have the printer coming, and once I get the printer up and running i will move my endstop to the left (With an upgraded adapter), but currently I have no idea where to put the endstop on the right.

I never even bothered to put it on the right. I did have a few issues at first getting Marlin re-configured correctly (I wound up with it printing mirrored in the X axis the first day or two.) but once I realized it's safe to flip the stepper connectors to reverse them I got that sorted out quickly. I'd have had it sorted out even quicker if I had been willing to ask for help

I used therippas build right from the start, never tried folgers outdated marlin. But even with the changes therippa made to the config you can't just put the endstop on the left. I still had to change INVERT_X_DIR to true and X_HOME_DIR to -1 in configuration.h and flip the wires for the X stepper to match the Y before I got it homing to the left/min and not print mirrored.

The stock mount will work on the left just as well as it works on the right...but it's a horrible mount in either direction. The big problem I had was it would "droop" while I printed and then fall so low the extruder wouldn't hit it anymore so at the end of the print when it would go to home it couldn't and would just bash into the left side over and over. You can see it drop in this timelapse starting around the 1 minute mark: [www.youtube.com] That's with it tightened so much the black plastic turned white from stress.

A better X mount was one of the first things I printed

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markts

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markts

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sonnylowe


As far as printing a mount, once you find one you like you might be able to find a local printing service at 3Dhubs There are three with-in 20 miles of me

Many people here are using the E3D Hotends with the FT Direct Drive setup, so you should be able to get some advice, or maybe the search in my sig can find it for you!?!?

E3D now offers all their Hotend assembled, although I'm not sure Filastruder would have them yet!?!?

I would also be happy to print a mount for you and send it to you, I would just need to know which one you wanted...

Sonny

Thanks Sonny!

I took the plunge and ordered the E3D Lite6 kit from Filastruder - got the tracking number already (would be cool if it made it on Saturday, but that's wishful thinking). I'm hoping I can get the old hot end working enough to print animoose's mount for the E3D. It looks like that's all I need to get started? Then when I get it going I'll look into a fan mount. Thanks guys!

"Expected Delivery Day: Saturday, January 23, 2016"

Woo hoo! I've got some work to do to get the mount for it printed. It looks like the assembly of the hot end isn't insignificant either (I didn't see the assembled version Sonny).

Very cool, I know you'll love it!!!

I don't think FIlastruder has them yet...but HERE THEY ARE

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markts

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markts

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sonnylowe


As far as printing a mount, once you find one you like you might be able to find a local printing service at 3Dhubs There are three with-in 20 miles of me

Many people here are using the E3D Hotends with the FT Direct Drive setup, so you should be able to get some advice, or maybe the search in my sig can find it for you!?!?

E3D now offers all their Hotend assembled, although I'm not sure Filastruder would have them yet!?!?

I would also be happy to print a mount for you and send it to you, I would just need to know which one you wanted...

Sonny

Thanks Sonny!

I took the plunge and ordered the E3D Lite6 kit from Filastruder - got the tracking number already (would be cool if it made it on Saturday, but that's wishful thinking). I'm hoping I can get the old hot end working enough to print animoose's mount for the E3D. It looks like that's all I need to get started? Then when I get it going I'll look into a fan mount. Thanks guys!

"Expected Delivery Day: Saturday, January 23, 2016"

Woo hoo! I've got some work to do to get the mount for it printed. It looks like the assembly of the hot end isn't insignificant either (I didn't see the assembled version Sonny).

Same delivery date as my printer

Raspberry Pi showed up today.

---

Need help? Visit the Folgertech Wikia Page

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sonnylowe

Quote
markts

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markts

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sonnylowe


As far as printing a mount, once you find one you like you might be able to find a local printing service at 3Dhubs There are three with-in 20 miles of me

Many people here are using the E3D Hotends with the FT Direct Drive setup, so you should be able to get some advice, or maybe the search in my sig can find it for you!?!?

E3D now offers all their Hotend assembled, although I'm not sure Filastruder would have them yet!?!?

I would also be happy to print a mount for you and send it to you, I would just need to know which one you wanted...

Sonny

Thanks Sonny!

I took the plunge and ordered the E3D Lite6 kit from Filastruder - got the tracking number already (would be cool if it made it on Saturday, but that's wishful thinking). I'm hoping I can get the old hot end working enough to print animoose's mount for the E3D. It looks like that's all I need to get started? Then when I get it going I'll look into a fan mount. Thanks guys!

"Expected Delivery Day: Saturday, January 23, 2016"

Woo hoo! I've got some work to do to get the mount for it printed. It looks like the assembly of the hot end isn't insignificant either (I didn't see the assembled version Sonny).

Very cool, I know you'll love it!!!

I don't think FIlastruder has them yet...but HERE THEY ARE

I ordered mine assembled from E3D directly on Dec 29th and I'm still waiting for it to be delivered. I didn't know at the time that Filastruder sold them, had I know I would have ordered there...

I have a question, if we heat the bed to get the parts to stick then we blow a fan on the part as we print to cool it couldn't we turn the heat off after the part is well underway ?

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nobrakes
I have a question, if we heat the bed to get the parts to stick then we blow a fan on the part as we print to cool it couldn't we turn the heat off after the part is well underway ?

The heated bed keeps the bottom layers from warping and cooling too much during the print, which would cause the print to kinda "peel" off if the bed. The job of a fan blowing on a part is to only cool the layer that is currently being put down.

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Folger Tech I3 2020 Wikia page: [folgertech.wikia.com]

Custom Folger Tech I3 2020 custom search

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Rick100

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nobrakes
My 3d view and slicer views are blank and after reading the Repeiter website I suspect the video card in my old computer is not up to the task, can anyone suggest an inexpensive video card that will work?

Thanks

I had a problem with the on board video with my Dell Optiplex 760 not working with Repetier or Pronterface. The error I got was "552: UserWarning: Could not set vsync; unsupported extension". I bought a EVGA 200 GeForce 210 from Newegg. It solved my problems and works on my small form factor PC even though the power supply doesn't meet the specs the card calls for. Here's a link to the card.
Newegg GeForce 210

Thanks Rick100 I am using an OptiPlex 620 and ordered the Sapphire Radeon HD 6450 after reading it fits and works with my computer, hope it solves my display issues.

For those interested, I just published the X-Axis (Gen-1) upgrade to THINGI

Big thanks to the therippa for his comments and remixes.

I have also updated the Wikia page.

I have the X-Axis Gen-2 running on my printer and love the setup, so smooth and so compact. Although it works great for a Bowden Hotend, I am trying to come up with a suitable design for a Direct Drive Extruder for those of you not using a Bowden. Hope to have it completed in the week or so and will publish it then!?!?

Side note:

I will be installing Y-Axis Gen-2 this weekend, it utilizes an offset belt which I hope will allow the Y-main rail to cut the same length as the frame support rails which would allow an enclosure if desired.

---

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My printer should be delivered on Tuesday. I was hoping that it might make it before the weekend but I'll just have to be patient. Looking forward to putting all these ideas for upgrades in place.

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sonnylowe
For those interested, I just published the X-Axis (Gen-1) upgrade to THINGI

Big thanks to the therippa for his comments and remixes.

I have also updated the Wikia page.

I have the X-Axis Gen-2 running on my printer and love the setup, so smooth and so compact. Although it works great for a Bowden Hotend, I am trying to come up with a suitable design for a Direct Drive Extruder for those of you not using a Bowden. Hope to have it completed in the week or so and will publish it then!?!?

Side note:

I will be installing Y-Axis Gen-2 this weekend, it utilizes an offset belt which I hope will allow the Y-main rail to cut the same length as the frame support rails which would allow an enclosure if desired.

Nice! Another upgrade to add to the list.....

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sonnylowe
For those interested, I just published the X-Axis (Gen-1) upgrade to THINGI

Big thanks to the therippa for his comments and remixes.

I have also updated the Wikia page.

I have the X-Axis Gen-2 running on my printer and love the setup, so smooth and so compact. Although it works great for a Bowden Hotend, I am trying to come up with a suitable design for a Direct Drive Extruder for those of you not using a Bowden. Hope to have it completed in the week or so and will publish it then!?!?

Side note:

I will be installing Y-Axis Gen-2 this weekend, it utilizes an offset belt which I hope will allow the Y-main rail to cut the same length as the frame support rails which would allow an enclosure if desired.

It will be interesting to see how the offset belt performs. If there is ANY slop in the carriage allowing it to 'twist', I can see it affecting the print quality. Your designs are such an improvement over the rod/bearing system!

Quote
sonnylowe
For those interested, I just published the X-Axis (Gen-1) upgrade to THINGI

Big thanks to the therippa for his comments and remixes.

I have also updated the Wikia page.

I have the X-Axis Gen-2 running on my printer and love the setup, so smooth and so compact. Although it works great for a Bowden Hotend, I am trying to come up with a suitable design for a Direct Drive Extruder for those of you not using a Bowden. Hope to have it completed in the week or so and will publish it then!?!?

Side note:

I will be installing Y-Axis Gen-2 this weekend, it utilizes an offset belt which I hope will allow the Y-main rail to cut the same length as the frame support rails which would allow an enclosure if desired.

Saw it was published. Might have to wait to see the Gen2, what do you personally think will be the best option ofr those of use that won't be casing ours.

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Mopar99

upgrading the hot end to a e3d v6 is the best thing I've done to my printer.... didn't go with the light version. had to modify the ft molded black part to make it work.

2016-01-13%2008.33.12.jpg

Pretty much same setup I have.
Can you share any of your lessons learned with PETG?

This is all good news - I'm looking forward to the upgrade.

Apparently the old hot-end heard it was going to be swapped out and started behaving. For the heck of it I cranked the heat up for ABS temperature (I've been using PLA) and a ton of material came pouring out. After getting back to the right temp, I was able to print some upgrade parts in preparation for the E3D.

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Mopar99

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UltiFix

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Boffster

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sonnylowe
This is great advice, maybe we should add a trouble shooting section to the Wikia Page!?!?

I think would be a huge benefit to have a definitive build guide and configuration.h that the majority agree on that we can point people to (here and from the wiki), that way everyone will have the same setup and same config starting out. E.g. Endstops on Min and Stepper cables all connected the same way round.
That should help with 90% of the problems people seem to be having.

I have the printer coming, and once I get the printer up and running i will move my endstop to the left (With an upgraded adapter), but currently I have no idea where to put the endstop on the right.

upgrading the hot end to a e3d v6 is the best thing I've done to my printer.... didn't go with the light version. had to modify the ft molded black part to make it work.

2016-01-13%2008.33.12.jpg

That's really hanging low! How much vertical height did you lose?

---

Folger Tech 2020 i3 and FT-5 as well as modified JGAurora A5 with direct drive E3D/Titan. All running the BLTOUCH.
Great kits. Having fun and running the heck out of them.
Running Marlin 1.1.0 RC8 on the i3 and FT5. Custom firmware on A5.
Folger Tech Wiki board >[folgertech.wikia.com]

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tjnamtiw

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Mopar99

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UltiFix

Quote
Boffster

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sonnylowe
This is great advice, maybe we should add a trouble shooting section to the Wikia Page!?!?

I think would be a huge benefit to have a definitive build guide and configuration.h that the majority agree on that we can point people to (here and from the wiki), that way everyone will have the same setup and same config starting out. E.g. Endstops on Min and Stepper cables all connected the same way round.
That should help with 90% of the problems people seem to be having.

I have the printer coming, and once I get the printer up and running i will move my endstop to the left (With an upgraded adapter), but currently I have no idea where to put the endstop on the right.

upgrading the hot end to a e3d v6 is the best thing I've done to my printer.... didn't go with the light version. had to modify the ft molded black part to make it work.

2016-01-13%2008.33.12.jpg

That's really hanging low! How much vertical height did you lose?

I didn't really notice a difference when I went to set the new z position. however this will all change once i finish up the prints for Sonny's upgrades and receive the rest of the hardware I have on order. All my prints are in PLA at the moment. I have a spool of ABS but haven't venture done that road.

This is my x-carriage with e3d v6 as it sits now. I changed the mounting points of the stepper motor like everyone else (bottom holes instead of top)



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/22/2016 12:54PM by srcga.

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srcga
This is my x-carriage with e3d v6 as it sits now. I changed the mounting points of the stepper motor like everyone else (bottom holes instead of top)

e3dsmall.jpg

Nice extruder

---

Need help? Visit the Folgertech Wikia Page

The latest Marlin firmware with Folgertech Prusa i3 settings merged in, get it here

And check out my designs on Thingiverse, and follow me if you like what you see!

Can someone provide a quick list of some of the advantages of the e3d v6? I am printing exclusively with ABS and am pretty happy with stock results thus far, but there is certainly room for improvement in places. Thanks!

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LancelotL
Can someone provide a quick list of some of the advantages of the e3d v6? I am printing exclusively with ABS and am pretty happy with stock results thus far, but there is certainly room for improvement in places. Thanks!

I printed exclusively with ABS and absolutely had no complaints about the stock extruder and hotend. I had it dialed in great.

For me personally -- because I wanted to do other filaments. PETG for starters, the heatbreak with the e3d v6 is supposed to help a ton with 'ooze' and 'stringiness' on it.. I'll get into other stuff like ninjaflex/etc. soon enough

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therippa


Nice extruder

Damn right

Oh, on my s3d weirdness. Sliced something with Cura and I'm having the same autolevel issue. So.. it's not S3D. I'll reflash firmware and see if that clears it up, usually does.. just a coincidence happened to be same time I changed software! Go figure.

My first guess at PETG with Benchy came out pretty damn good for a first run. Loving how strong PETG is.. I can't break this with my bare hands



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/22/2016 03:07PM by srcga.

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peeejayz

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sonnylowe
For those interested, I just published the X-Axis (Gen-1) upgrade to THINGI

Big thanks to the therippa for his comments and remixes.

I have also updated the Wikia page.

I have the X-Axis Gen-2 running on my printer and love the setup, so smooth and so compact. Although it works great for a Bowden Hotend, I am trying to come up with a suitable design for a Direct Drive Extruder for those of you not using a Bowden. Hope to have it completed in the week or so and will publish it then!?!?

Side note:

I will be installing Y-Axis Gen-2 this weekend, it utilizes an offset belt which I hope will allow the Y-main rail to cut the same length as the frame support rails which would allow an enclosure if desired.

Saw it was published. Might have to wait to see the Gen2, what do you personally think will be the best option ofr those of use that won't be casing ours.

If the length of the rail doesn't matter and you run a direct drive extruder I think Gen-1 will be best as you would only have one motor on the gantry. If you are running Bowden Extruder it should be a toss up, maybe nothing more than a personal preference!?!?

---

My Stuff on Thingi

FolgerTech Wikia Page

Custom Search by Animoose

MakerSL.com

Quote
tjnamtiw

Quote
sonnylowe
For those interested, I just published the X-Axis (Gen-1) upgrade to THINGI

Big thanks to the therippa for his comments and remixes.

I have also updated the Wikia page.

I have the X-Axis Gen-2 running on my printer and love the setup, so smooth and so compact. Although it works great for a Bowden Hotend, I am trying to come up with a suitable design for a Direct Drive Extruder for those of you not using a Bowden. Hope to have it completed in the week or so and will publish it then!?!?

Side note:

I will be installing Y-Axis Gen-2 this weekend, it utilizes an offset belt which I hope will allow the Y-main rail to cut the same length as the frame support rails which would allow an enclosure if desired.

It will be interesting to see how the offset belt performs. If there is ANY slop in the carriage allowing it to 'twist', I can see it affecting the print quality. Your designs are such an improvement over the rod/bearing system!

I agree completely, slop in the gantry will be much more noticeable with the offset belt, however I think the V-Slot system will handle it with no problem. I wouldn't even consider it if I were still running the old bearings and rods

Thanks fore the praise, it is greatly appreciated!!

Sonny

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Printer is supposed to be here monday! Wahoo!

Quote
UltiFix
Printer is supposed to be here monday! Wahoo!

NICE

---

My Stuff on Thingi

FolgerTech Wikia Page

Custom Search by Animoose

MakerSL.com

Quote
sonnylowe

Quote
tjnamtiw

Quote
sonnylowe
For those interested, I just published the X-Axis (Gen-1) upgrade to THINGI

Big thanks to the therippa for his comments and remixes.

I have also updated the Wikia page.

I have the X-Axis Gen-2 running on my printer and love the setup, so smooth and so compact. Although it works great for a Bowden Hotend, I am trying to come up with a suitable design for a Direct Drive Extruder for those of you not using a Bowden. Hope to have it completed in the week or so and will publish it then!?!?

Side note:

I will be installing Y-Axis Gen-2 this weekend, it utilizes an offset belt which I hope will allow the Y-main rail to cut the same length as the frame support rails which would allow an enclosure if desired.

It will be interesting to see how the offset belt performs. If there is ANY slop in the carriage allowing it to 'twist', I can see it affecting the print quality. Your designs are such an improvement over the rod/bearing system!

I agree completely, slop in the gantry will be much more noticeable with the offset belt, however I think the V-Slot system will handle it with no problem. I wouldn't even consider it if I were still running the old bearings and rods

Thanks fore the praise, it is greatly appreciated!!

Sonny

.
It was seriously meant. You should think about offering that as an upgrade kit for the 2020. You wouldn't have the liability issues. People would jump at a smooth running, quiet system instead of the ballsy rattling many have. It's a natural for EBay. Of all things, I made some replacement sliders for Jeep electric window systems to use instead of buying a new apparatus. I've sold 3 sets so far at $25 a set.

---

Folger Tech 2020 i3 and FT-5 as well as modified JGAurora A5 with direct drive E3D/Titan. All running the BLTOUCH.
Great kits. Having fun and running the heck out of them.
Running Marlin 1.1.0 RC8 on the i3 and FT5. Custom firmware on A5.
Folger Tech Wiki board >[folgertech.wikia.com]

Quote
tjnamtiw

Quote
sonnylowe

Quote
tjnamtiw

Quote
sonnylowe
For those interested, I just published the X-Axis (Gen-1) upgrade to THINGI

Big thanks to the therippa for his comments and remixes.

I have also updated the Wikia page.

I have the X-Axis Gen-2 running on my printer and love the setup, so smooth and so compact. Although it works great for a Bowden Hotend, I am trying to come up with a suitable design for a Direct Drive Extruder for those of you not using a Bowden. Hope to have it completed in the week or so and will publish it then!?!?

Side note:

I will be installing Y-Axis Gen-2 this weekend, it utilizes an offset belt which I hope will allow the Y-main rail to cut the same length as the frame support rails which would allow an enclosure if desired.

It will be interesting to see how the offset belt performs. If there is ANY slop in the carriage allowing it to 'twist', I can see it affecting the print quality. Your designs are such an improvement over the rod/bearing system!

I agree completely, slop in the gantry will be much more noticeable with the offset belt, however I think the V-Slot system will handle it with no problem. I wouldn't even consider it if I were still running the old bearings and rods

Thanks fore the praise, it is greatly appreciated!!

Sonny

.
It was seriously meant. You should think about offering that as an upgrade kit for the 2020. You wouldn't have the liability issues. People would jump at a smooth running, quiet system instead of the ballsy rattling many have. It's a natural for EBay. Of all things, I made some replacement sliders for Jeep electric window systems to use instead of buying a new apparatus. I've sold 3 sets so far at $25 a set.

Ebay is awesome, I sold my first thing and got a 50 dollar coupon for it!

Quote
markts

Quote
markts

Quote
sonnylowe


As far as printing a mount, once you find one you like you might be able to find a local printing service at 3Dhubs There are three with-in 20 miles of me

Many people here are using the E3D Hotends with the FT Direct Drive setup, so you should be able to get some advice, or maybe the search in my sig can find it for you!?!?

E3D now offers all their Hotend assembled, although I'm not sure Filastruder would have them yet!?!?

I would also be happy to print a mount for you and send it to you, I would just need to know which one you wanted...

Sonny

Thanks Sonny!

I took the plunge and ordered the E3D Lite6 kit from Filastruder - got the tracking number already (would be cool if it made it on Saturday, but that's wishful thinking). I'm hoping I can get the old hot end working enough to print animoose's mount for the E3D. It looks like that's all I need to get started? Then when I get it going I'll look into a fan mount. Thanks guys!

"Expected Delivery Day: Saturday, January 23, 2016"

Woo hoo! I've got some work to do to get the mount for it printed. It looks like the assembly of the hot end isn't insignificant either (I didn't see the assembled version Sonny).

Bugger. "Expected delivery" is still today but at last update it's still in Georgia.

Quote
markts

Quote
markts

Quote
markts

Quote
sonnylowe


As far as printing a mount, once you find one you like you might be able to find a local printing service at 3Dhubs There are three with-in 20 miles of me

Many people here are using the E3D Hotends with the FT Direct Drive setup, so you should be able to get some advice, or maybe the search in my sig can find it for you!?!?

E3D now offers all their Hotend assembled, although I'm not sure Filastruder would have them yet!?!?

I would also be happy to print a mount for you and send it to you, I would just need to know which one you wanted...

Sonny

Thanks Sonny!

I took the plunge and ordered the E3D Lite6 kit from Filastruder - got the tracking number already (would be cool if it made it on Saturday, but that's wishful thinking). I'm hoping I can get the old hot end working enough to print animoose's mount for the E3D. It looks like that's all I need to get started? Then when I get it going I'll look into a fan mount. Thanks guys!

"Expected Delivery Day: Saturday, January 23, 2016"

Woo hoo! I've got some work to do to get the mount for it printed. It looks like the assembly of the hot end isn't insignificant either (I didn't see the assembled version Sonny).

Bugger. "Expected delivery" is still today but at last update it's still in Georgia.

Yeah that's USPS for you, FT does 2 day shipping and the post office lost it for a week for me. It's pretty shameful.

So I don't want to sound like a broken record but I'm getting some serious lift issues. Not just the corners lifting off the build bed but also lifting on edges higher up in the print. I've printed something where there is an overhang higher up (about 25mm high) and it build appropriate support, The support adhered to the print and when the corner started lifting there it ripped the support of the bed.

I am printing on a borosilicate glass plate.
I'm getting the bed itself up to 120C (mostly because I think I'm losing a bit during the heat transfer to the glass)
I've had better results when printing directly on the bed but the FT bed are warped and far from a level surface.
I've considered a raft but if an overhang 25mm up rips the support off the bed as they warp I don't see how a raft would fare any better.

This is my main issue as my prints are otherwise looking great.

Thanks