Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread)

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marc2912

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markts

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markts

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markts

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sonnylowe


As far as printing a mount, once you find one you like you might be able to find a local printing service at 3Dhubs There are three with-in 20 miles of me

Many people here are using the E3D Hotends with the FT Direct Drive setup, so you should be able to get some advice, or maybe the search in my sig can find it for you!?!?

E3D now offers all their Hotend assembled, although I'm not sure Filastruder would have them yet!?!?

I would also be happy to print a mount for you and send it to you, I would just need to know which one you wanted...

Sonny

Thanks Sonny!

I took the plunge and ordered the E3D Lite6 kit from Filastruder - got the tracking number already (would be cool if it made it on Saturday, but that's wishful thinking). I'm hoping I can get the old hot end working enough to print animoose's mount for the E3D. It looks like that's all I need to get started? Then when I get it going I'll look into a fan mount. Thanks guys!

"Expected Delivery Day: Saturday, January 23, 2016"

Woo hoo! I've got some work to do to get the mount for it printed. It looks like the assembly of the hot end isn't insignificant either (I didn't see the assembled version Sonny).

Bugger. "Expected delivery" is still today but at last update it's still in Georgia.

Yeah that's USPS for you, FT does 2 day shipping and the post office lost it for a week for me. It's pretty shameful.

Yeahm I can just picture it sitting on the floor at some USPS facility in Georgia.

I would have ordered from FT if they had what I wanted - they are in the next state over. 1st class mail = 1 day shipping once they get it in the mail.

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marc2912
So I don't want to sound like a broken record but I'm getting some serious lift issues. Not just the corners lifting off the build bed but also lifting on edges higher up in the print. I've printed something where there is an overhang higher up (about 25mm high) and it build appropriate support, The support adhered to the print and when the corner started lifting there it ripped the support of the bed.

I am printing on a borosilicate glass plate.
I'm getting the bed itself up to 120C (mostly because I think I'm losing a bit during the heat transfer to the glass)
I've had better results when printing directly on the bed but the FT bed are warped and far from a level surface.
I've considered a raft but if an overhang 25mm up rips the support off the bed as they warp I don't see how a raft would fare any better.

This is my main issue as my prints are otherwise looking great.

Thanks

If you're setting your bed to 120, I assume you're printing ABS. Have you tried creating a cocktail of ABS dissolved in acetone, and spreading a thin layer on your bed with a q-tip? I had serious lifting problems, and once I started doing this, it fixed all my problems. I've heard wolfbite works pretty well too.

Quote
marc2912

Quote
markts

Quote
markts

Quote
markts

Quote
sonnylowe


As far as printing a mount, once you find one you like you might be able to find a local printing service at 3Dhubs There are three with-in 20 miles of me

Many people here are using the E3D Hotends with the FT Direct Drive setup, so you should be able to get some advice, or maybe the search in my sig can find it for you!?!?

E3D now offers all their Hotend assembled, although I'm not sure Filastruder would have them yet!?!?

I would also be happy to print a mount for you and send it to you, I would just need to know which one you wanted...

Sonny

Thanks Sonny!

I took the plunge and ordered the E3D Lite6 kit from Filastruder - got the tracking number already (would be cool if it made it on Saturday, but that's wishful thinking). I'm hoping I can get the old hot end working enough to print animoose's mount for the E3D. It looks like that's all I need to get started? Then when I get it going I'll look into a fan mount. Thanks guys!

"Expected Delivery Day: Saturday, January 23, 2016"

Woo hoo! I've got some work to do to get the mount for it printed. It looks like the assembly of the hot end isn't insignificant either (I didn't see the assembled version Sonny).

Bugger. "Expected delivery" is still today but at last update it's still in Georgia.

Yeah that's USPS for you, FT does 2 day shipping and the post office lost it for a week for me. It's pretty shameful.

The USPS TOTALLY annihilated the packaging for my printer when it was shipped. One end was ripped apart and shredded. They stuffed back inside what would fit and taped the crap out of it. Turns out all the electronics plus some other parts were missing. FT very professionally handled it and sent me all my missing parts no questions asked. I supplied them with pictures and documentation if they wanted to file a complaint. Can't see ANY reason not to support them.

---

Folger Tech 2020 i3 and FT-5 as well as modified JGAurora A5 with direct drive E3D/Titan. All running the BLTOUCH.
Great kits. Having fun and running the heck out of them.
Running Marlin 1.1.0 RC8 on the i3 and FT5. Custom firmware on A5.
Folger Tech Wiki board >[folgertech.wikia.com]

Quote
marc2912
So I don't want to sound like a broken record but I'm getting some serious lift issues. Not just the corners lifting off the build bed but also lifting on edges higher up in the print. I've printed something where there is an overhang higher up (about 25mm high) and it build appropriate support, The support adhered to the print and when the corner started lifting there it ripped the support of the bed.

I am printing on a borosilicate glass plate.
I'm getting the bed itself up to 120C (mostly because I think I'm losing a bit during the heat transfer to the glass)
I've had better results when printing directly on the bed but the FT bed are warped and far from a level surface.
I've considered a raft but if an overhang 25mm up rips the support off the bed as they warp I don't see how a raft would fare any better.

This is my main issue as my prints are otherwise looking great.

Thanks

Check out the two guides below (also posted on the Wikia Page), they may help with your issue. I print on the same glass, 80C with Glue Stick...I have no real lifting issues...maybe your filament temp is a bit too high!?!?

S3D Guide

Ultimaker

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Looking for some help troubleshooting my printing. I've attached a photo of the underside of the first 2 layers of a 20mm test cube. This is PLA extruded at 200C and a bed temp of 60 just because I've had trouble getting PLA to stick without heat.

Layer Height 0.2 mm
First Layer 0.35 mm
Perimeters 20 mm/sec
solid infill 20 mm/sec.

What do you see here?

Quote
JustAGuy
Looking for some help troubleshooting my printing. I've attached a photo of the underside of the first 2 layers of a 20mm test cube. This is PLA extruded at 200C and a bed temp of 60 just because I've had trouble getting PLA to stick without heat.

Layer Height 0.2 mm
First Layer 0.35 mm
Perimeters 20 mm/sec
solid infill 20 mm/sec.

What do you see here?

Looks like under extrusion due to the extrusion multiplier being to low. Not sure if that is the problem, but considering that the second layer looks like it is having the same issue, that would be my best guess. I would also check to make sure that the proper nozzle orifice diameter is set.

---

Folger Tech I3 2020 Wikia page: [folgertech.wikia.com]

Custom Folger Tech I3 2020 custom search

I put this message in a separate message rather than put it where everyone hangs out.

In preparation for my installation of the BLTouch probe for ABL, I moved the X end stop, made the appropriate changes, and tested to be sure everything was OK. Now I loaded Marlin's 1.1.0 RC2 and changed what needed to be changed but upon homing, X and Y both went correctly and Z went toward home but both Z steppers went nuts making racket, which I assumed was skipping steps. I saw in config.h "#define HOMING_FEEDRATE {50*60, 50*60, 4*60, 0} // set the homing speeds (mm/min)". In therippa's version and my old version, the Z feedrate was set at 50, no 240, so I changed that to 50 and all was good. Before making that change, however, even if I RAISED the Z axis, it made that racket. I'm not sure if there is somewhere else that sets Z axis speed very high.

In any event, in the new Wikia, where BLTouch is addressed a comment is made that BLTouch doesn't like to move slowly between probes and you may have to put the Z feedrate at 4*60 (240). I don't think that's going to work without some other workaround, if indeed, you need that much speed. I did raise my Z driver voltage from .240 to .350 with no change. I didn't go any higher.

Any suggestions from those who are using BLTouch??

Also, the suggested changes in the Wikia are tailored to RC3, I think, rather than theRippa's version. eg:servo section.

---

Folger Tech 2020 i3 and FT-5 as well as modified JGAurora A5 with direct drive E3D/Titan. All running the BLTOUCH.
Great kits. Having fun and running the heck out of them.
Running Marlin 1.1.0 RC8 on the i3 and FT5. Custom firmware on A5.
Folger Tech Wiki board >[folgertech.wikia.com]

I gotta tell ya Mach. Yer good. That was it. I had already calculated the proper extruder multiplier for my setup (113) but hadn't put it in my new profile yet.

Thanks!

Sam

Quote
Mach

Quote
JustAGuy


What do you see here?

Looks like under extrusion due to the extrusion multiplier being to low. Not sure if that is the problem, but considering that the second layer looks like it is having the same issue, that would be my best guess. I would also check to make sure that the proper nozzle orifice diameter is set.

Quote
JustAGuy
I gotta tell ya Mach. Yer good. That was it. I had already calculated the proper extruder multiplier for my setup (113) but hadn't put it in my new profile yet.

Thanks!

Sam

Quote
Mach

Quote
JustAGuy


What do you see here?

Looks like under extrusion due to the extrusion multiplier being to low. Not sure if that is the problem, but considering that the second layer looks like it is having the same issue, that would be my best guess. I would also check to make sure that the proper nozzle orifice diameter is set.

---

Folger Tech I3 2020 Wikia page: [folgertech.wikia.com]

Custom Folger Tech I3 2020 custom search

Quote
elkayem

Quote
marc2912
So I don't want to sound like a broken record but I'm getting some serious lift issues. Not just the corners lifting off the build bed but also lifting on edges higher up in the print. I've printed something where there is an overhang higher up (about 25mm high) and it build appropriate support, The support adhered to the print and when the corner started lifting there it ripped the support of the bed.

I am printing on a borosilicate glass plate.
I'm getting the bed itself up to 120C (mostly because I think I'm losing a bit during the heat transfer to the glass)
I've had better results when printing directly on the bed but the FT bed are warped and far from a level surface.
I've considered a raft but if an overhang 25mm up rips the support off the bed as they warp I don't see how a raft would fare any better.

This is my main issue as my prints are otherwise looking great.

Thanks

If you're setting your bed to 120, I assume you're printing ABS. Have you tried creating a cocktail of ABS dissolved in acetone, and spreading a thin layer on your bed with a q-tip? I had serious lifting problems, and once I started doing this, it fixed all my problems. I've heard wolfbite works pretty well too.

Not yet on the cocktail. A lot of people seem to be able to print on glass without doing this. I would rather not have to resort to that unless I really have to. Added it to my list of to try options thought.

Quote
sonnylowe

Quote
marc2912
So I don't want to sound like a broken record but I'm getting some serious lift issues. Not just the corners lifting off the build bed but also lifting on edges higher up in the print. I've printed something where there is an overhang higher up (about 25mm high) and it build appropriate support, The support adhered to the print and when the corner started lifting there it ripped the support of the bed.

I am printing on a borosilicate glass plate.
I'm getting the bed itself up to 120C (mostly because I think I'm losing a bit during the heat transfer to the glass)
I've had better results when printing directly on the bed but the FT bed are warped and far from a level surface.
I've considered a raft but if an overhang 25mm up rips the support off the bed as they warp I don't see how a raft would fare any better.

This is my main issue as my prints are otherwise looking great.

Thanks

Check out the two guides below (also posted on the Wikia Page), they may help with your issue. I print on the same glass, 80C with Glue Stick...I have no real lifting issues...maybe your filament temp is a bit too high!?!?

S3D Guide

Ultimaker

Going to go through the two guides. I printed the same piece twice as a test on the filament temp. Extruder temp was 230 C. That's my original temp and as expected I had lifting (was printing on raft with 5mm around and the raft was lifting too)
Changed the extruder temp to 210 C. The lifting was worse, we're talking close to twice as bad, again printed with the skirt and it looked like this....



I'm going to take a look at those two guides and see what I get.

Quote
tjnamtiw
I put this message in a separate message rather than put it where everyone hangs out.

In preparation for my installation of the BLTouch probe for ABL, I moved the X end stop, made the appropriate changes, and tested to be sure everything was OK. Now I loaded Marlin's 1.1.0 RC2 and changed what needed to be changed but upon homing, X and Y both went correctly and Z went toward home but both Z steppers went nuts making racket, which I assumed was skipping steps. I saw in config.h "#define HOMING_FEEDRATE {50*60, 50*60, 4*60, 0} // set the homing speeds (mm/min)". In therippa's version and my old version, the Z feedrate was set at 50, no 240, so I changed that to 50 and all was good. Before making that change, however, even if I RAISED the Z axis, it made that racket. I'm not sure if there is somewhere else that sets Z axis speed very high.

In any event, in the new Wikia, where BLTouch is addressed a comment is made that BLTouch doesn't like to move slowly between probes and you may have to put the Z feedrate at 4*60 (240). I don't think that's going to work without some other workaround, if indeed, you need that much speed. I did raise my Z driver voltage from .240 to .350 with no change. I didn't go any higher.

Any suggestions from those who are using BLTouch??

Also, the suggested changes in the Wikia are tailored to RC3, I think, rather than theRippa's version. eg:servo section.

If you are using 1.1.0-RC3, be sure to set the motherboard type to BOARD_RAMPS_14_EFB or the servo won't work due to a pin conflict.
#define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_RAMPS_14_EFB

Also 4*60 is the default homing rate for 1.1.0-RC3, I think, so no change will be necessary there.

You can get a copy of my Configuration.h file for 1.1.0-RC3 here:
[www.thetechwizard.us]

It is for a x-endstop on the left, and stock extruder.

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 01/23/2016 08:19PM by Bert3D.

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Folger Tech 2020 i3 Wiki

Custom google search for the Folger Tech 2020 i3 forum topic by Animoose

My Thingiverse Designs

Quote
Bert3D

Quote
tjnamtiw
I put this message in a separate message rather than put it where everyone hangs out.

In preparation for my installation of the BLTouch probe for ABL, I moved the X end stop, made the appropriate changes, and tested to be sure everything was OK. Now I loaded Marlin's 1.1.0 RC2 and changed what needed to be changed but upon homing, X and Y both went correctly and Z went toward home but both Z steppers went nuts making racket, which I assumed was skipping steps. I saw in config.h "#define HOMING_FEEDRATE {50*60, 50*60, 4*60, 0} // set the homing speeds (mm/min)". In therippa's version and my old version, the Z feedrate was set at 50, no 240, so I changed that to 50 and all was good. Before making that change, however, even if I RAISED the Z axis, it made that racket. I'm not sure if there is somewhere else that sets Z axis speed very high.

In any event, in the new Wikia, where BLTouch is addressed a comment is made that BLTouch doesn't like to move slowly between probes and you may have to put the Z feedrate at 4*60 (240). I don't think that's going to work without some other workaround, if indeed, you need that much speed. I did raise my Z driver voltage from .240 to .350 with no change. I didn't go any higher.

Any suggestions from those who are using BLTouch??

Also, the suggested changes in the Wikia are tailored to RC3, I think, rather than theRippa's version. eg:servo section.

If you are using 1.1.0-RC3, be sure to set the motherboard type to BOARD_RAMPS_14_EFB or the servo won't work due to a pin conflict.
#define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_RAMPS_14_EFB

Also 4*60 is the default homing rate for 1.1.0-RC3, I think, so no change will be necessary there.

You can get a copy of my Configuration.h file for 1.1.0-RC3 here:
[www.thetechwizard.us]

It is for a x-endstop on the left, and stock extruder.

The instruction on Wikia were based on 1.1.0RC2, which is the firmware I'm running. I have changed the wikia page to reflect this. I'm not sure what version therippa is running!?!? If it is in fact RC3 we must all keep in mind the following statement on github...

Release Candidate -- Marlin 1.1.0-RC3 - 01 December 2015

"Not for production use – use with caution!"

To honest I'm not familiar enough with Marlin to know exactly what that means, nor whether it really matters or not. But it seems to me to be indicating it is a living firmware, that can be changed at anytime!?!?

That's the reason I pick RC2, it was latest so called released version I could find.

Maybe once rippa forks it, his version doesn't change, again, I don't know, but I'm sure rippa can clarify.

I also changed the note referring to the speed change, it was only necessary if you were having issues between probing (alarm) which I was having and I believe only related to the Yellow version!?!? It was one of those things that took me literally days to figure out, so I wanted to bring it to light to maybe same other some time...

The motherboard changes Bert recommend did not apply to RC2, at least not for me, my motherboard is MOTHERBOARD BOARD_RAMPS_13_EEB (note: EEB is require over EFB for dual extruders).

tjnamtiw,

As far as the racketing, I never experienced it with my Z setup (8mm Lead Screws Igus bearings) running between probes at 4*60 (hell I even ran them at 4*100 for a while, but it was scary fast...still worked though), so I'm not sure what's going on there. If you're running lead screws there might be a bit of an alignment issues or binding you simply don't see at lower speeds, if you're still running the M5 allthread that very well might be it!?!? But if it's working now at 50 I would leave it there.

Thanks for bringing this up, the Wikia needs to be proofed by everyone so we can catch these errors and the instruction that might make since to some of use but not explained well enough for everyone to get it. It always sounds good in the author head when he's writing it, but that doesn't mean it's written well LOL

It sounds like you used the Wikia guide to get the BLtouch setup, if so please let me know what you think and how we can improve it...

Edit: This reply is a prime example of how easy it is to make mistakes when writing (or at least for me)...I just reread it and found two types

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 01/23/2016 10:31PM by sonnylowe.

---

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Custom Search by Animoose

MakerSL.com

Quote
Bert3D

Quote
tjnamtiw
I put this message in a separate message rather than put it where everyone hangs out.

In preparation for my installation of the BLTouch probe for ABL, I moved the X end stop, made the appropriate changes, and tested to be sure everything was OK. Now I loaded Marlin's 1.1.0 RC2 and changed what needed to be changed but upon homing, X and Y both went correctly and Z went toward home but both Z steppers went nuts making racket, which I assumed was skipping steps. I saw in config.h "#define HOMING_FEEDRATE {50*60, 50*60, 4*60, 0} // set the homing speeds (mm/min)". In therippa's version and my old version, the Z feedrate was set at 50, no 240, so I changed that to 50 and all was good. Before making that change, however, even if I RAISED the Z axis, it made that racket. I'm not sure if there is somewhere else that sets Z axis speed very high.

In any event, in the new Wikia, where BLTouch is addressed a comment is made that BLTouch doesn't like to move slowly between probes and you may have to put the Z feedrate at 4*60 (240). I don't think that's going to work without some other workaround, if indeed, you need that much speed. I did raise my Z driver voltage from .240 to .350 with no change. I didn't go any higher.

Any suggestions from those who are using BLTouch??

Also, the suggested changes in the Wikia are tailored to RC3, I think, rather than theRippa's version. eg:servo section.

If you are using 1.1.0-RC3, be sure to set the motherboard type to BOARD_RAMPS_14_EFB or the servo won't work due to a pin conflict.
#define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_RAMPS_14_EFB

Also 4*60 is the default homing rate for 1.1.0-RC3, I think, so no change will be necessary there.

You can get a copy of my Configuration.h file for 1.1.0-RC3 here:
[www.thetechwizard.us]

It is for a x-endstop on the left, and stock extruder.

Thanks but what I was saying that the 'stock' homing rate for Z is 4*60 or 240 but it will drive the stepper motors crazy! We run the Z motors at 50 for theRippa version and the FT version. Thanks for the heads up on the 14-EFB BOARD. Gonna check that now.

---

Folger Tech 2020 i3 and FT-5 as well as modified JGAurora A5 with direct drive E3D/Titan. All running the BLTOUCH.
Great kits. Having fun and running the heck out of them.
Running Marlin 1.1.0 RC8 on the i3 and FT5. Custom firmware on A5.
Folger Tech Wiki board >[folgertech.wikia.com]

Anyone know if these will work with the rest of the out of box parts?

[www.thingiverse.com]

[www.thingiverse.com]

---

Need help? Visit the Folgertech Wikia Page

Quote
sonnylowe

Quote
Bert3D

Quote
tjnamtiw
I put this message in a separate message rather than put it where everyone hangs out.

In preparation for my installation of the BLTouch probe for ABL, I moved the X end stop, made the appropriate changes, and tested to be sure everything was OK. Now I loaded Marlin's 1.1.0 RC2 and changed what needed to be changed but upon homing, X and Y both went correctly and Z went toward home but both Z steppers went nuts making racket, which I assumed was skipping steps. I saw in config.h "#define HOMING_FEEDRATE {50*60, 50*60, 4*60, 0} // set the homing speeds (mm/min)". In therippa's version and my old version, the Z feedrate was set at 50, no 240, so I changed that to 50 and all was good. Before making that change, however, even if I RAISED the Z axis, it made that racket. I'm not sure if there is somewhere else that sets Z axis speed very high.

In any event, in the new Wikia, where BLTouch is addressed a comment is made that BLTouch doesn't like to move slowly between probes and you may have to put the Z feedrate at 4*60 (240). I don't think that's going to work without some other workaround, if indeed, you need that much speed. I did raise my Z driver voltage from .240 to .350 with no change. I didn't go any higher.

Any suggestions from those who are using BLTouch??

Also, the suggested changes in the Wikia are tailored to RC3, I think, rather than theRippa's version. eg:servo section.

If you are using 1.1.0-RC3, be sure to set the motherboard type to BOARD_RAMPS_14_EFB or the servo won't work due to a pin conflict.
#define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_RAMPS_14_EFB

Also 4*60 is the default homing rate for 1.1.0-RC3, I think, so no change will be necessary there.

You can get a copy of my Configuration.h file for 1.1.0-RC3 here:
[www.thetechwizard.us]

It is for a x-endstop on the left, and stock extruder.

The instruction on Wikia were based on 1.1.0RC2, which is the firmware I'm running. I have changed the wikia page to reflect this. I'm not sure what version therippa is running!?!? If it is in fact RC3 we must all keep in mind the following statement on github...

Release Candidate -- Marlin 1.1.0-RC3 - 01 December 2015

"Not for production use – use with caution!"

To honest I'm not familiar enough with Marlin to know exactly what that means, nor whether it really matters or not. But it seems to me to be indicating it is a living firmware, that can be changed at anytime!?!?

That's the reason I pick RC2, it was latest so called released version I could find.

Maybe once rippa forks it, his version doesn't change, again, I don't know, but I'm sure rippa can clarify.

I also changed the note referring to the speed change, it was only necessary if you were having issues between probing (alarm) which I was having and I believe only related to the Yellow version!?!? It was one of those things that took me literally days to figure out, so I wanted to bring it to light to maybe same other some time...

The motherboard changes Bert recommend did not apply to RC2, at least not for me, my motherboard is MOTHERBOARD BOARD_RAMPS_13_EEB (note: EEB is require over EFB for dual extruders).

tjnamtiw,

As far as the racketing, I never experienced it with my Z setup (8mm Lead Screws Igus bearings) running between probes at 4*60 (hell I even ran them at 4*100 for a while, but it was scary fast...still worked though), so I'm not sure what's going on there. If you're running lead screws there might be a bit of an alignment issues or binding you simply don't see at lower speeds, if you're still running the M5 allthread that very well might be it!?!? But if it's working now at 50 I would leave it there.

Thanks for bringing this up, the Wikia needs to be proofed by everyone so we can catch these errors and the instruction that might make since to some of use but not explained well enough for everyone to get it. It always sounds good in the author head when he's writing it, but that doesn't mean it's written well LOL

It sounds like you used the Wikia guide to get the BLtouch setup, if so please let me know what you think and how we can improve it...

Edit: This reply is a prime example of how easy it is to make mistakes when writing (or at least for me)...I just reread it and found two types

Thanks, Sonny. Yep, you're the reason I'm set up for the RC2 version. I remembered that you said it performed the best for the BLTouch. I'm still running the threaded rod and will have to look into why I was getting all the skipping. I had everything miked so both sides are identically high as well as parallel. I also have moly antisieze on the threaded rod to slow down wear. I can't imagine how fast lead screws must be moving the Z axis at 240!!! I'll go up slowly once I have things sorted out.

---

Folger Tech 2020 i3 and FT-5 as well as modified JGAurora A5 with direct drive E3D/Titan. All running the BLTOUCH.
Great kits. Having fun and running the heck out of them.
Running Marlin 1.1.0 RC8 on the i3 and FT5. Custom firmware on A5.
Folger Tech Wiki board >[folgertech.wikia.com]

It is my understanding that 1.1.0-RC3 is recommended over earlier versions of the 1.1 branch, despite the disclaimer. In fact, right after the disclaimer, is a line saying earlier versions of Marlin are not recommended, as I highlighted below.

1.1.0-RC3 is working well for me, other than the change to how they handle the motherboard type, which caught me by surprise, and made my servo stop working. Since BLTouch uses the servo signal also, I assume it will need the same change when you go to RC3 or the final released version of 1.1 once it comes out. If you are using a proximity sensor that doesn't need the servo signal, it probably would not matter.

Quote
Marlin Readme
Release Candidate -- Marlin 1.1.0-RC3 - 01 December 2015

Not for production use – use with caution!

Previously tagged versions of Marlin are not recommended. However, the latest patches to the Marlin 1.0 series can be found in the 1.0.x branch.

The config I posted is for the single stock extruder, with the x-endstop on the left, and servo auto level, and lead screw on the z axis. It should be close to what the BLTouch needs, other than the z probe offsets and maybe servo angles, but I expect it is unlikely that anyone would have the exact same z-probe offsets. There is too much possible variance in how the extruder and probe can be mounted, even if you are using the exact same extruder, throat, nozzle, probes and mounts.

This is what makes having a "standard config" on the wiki harder.

Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 01/24/2016 01:18PM by Bert3D.

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Folger Tech 2020 i3 Wiki

Custom google search for the Folger Tech 2020 i3 forum topic by Animoose

My Thingiverse Designs

Quote
nightpanda2810
Anyone know if these will work with the rest of the out of box parts?

[www.thingiverse.com]

[www.thingiverse.com]

The bushing should fit fine since it was made of the FT i3. The holes on the X carriage for the extruder should be at the proper distance apart, but the spaces for the bearings may not be. I would suggest importing the STLs into a cad programs that can import them and take some measurement to be sure.

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Folger Tech I3 2020 Wikia page: [folgertech.wikia.com]

Custom Folger Tech I3 2020 custom search

So excited to get this printer up and running. So many things I wan't to print

Quote
sonnylowe
This

EBRrpIj.jpg

Equals This

oGEX72S.jpg

Which in turn Equals This

smiley-face-wallpaper-001-268x300.jpg

what are the parts for?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/24/2016 02:35AM by jabu32.

Quote
tjnamtiw

Quote
sonnylowe

Quote
Bert3D

Quote
tjnamtiw
I put this message in a separate message rather than put it where everyone hangs out.

In preparation for my installation of the BLTouch probe for ABL, I moved the X end stop, made the appropriate changes, and tested to be sure everything was OK. Now I loaded Marlin's 1.1.0 RC2 and changed what needed to be changed but upon homing, X and Y both went correctly and Z went toward home but both Z steppers went nuts making racket, which I assumed was skipping steps. I saw in config.h "#define HOMING_FEEDRATE {50*60, 50*60, 4*60, 0} // set the homing speeds (mm/min)". In therippa's version and my old version, the Z feedrate was set at 50, no 240, so I changed that to 50 and all was good. Before making that change, however, even if I RAISED the Z axis, it made that racket. I'm not sure if there is somewhere else that sets Z axis speed very high.

In any event, in the new Wikia, where BLTouch is addressed a comment is made that BLTouch doesn't like to move slowly between probes and you may have to put the Z feedrate at 4*60 (240). I don't think that's going to work without some other workaround, if indeed, you need that much speed. I did raise my Z driver voltage from .240 to .350 with no change. I didn't go any higher.

Any suggestions from those who are using BLTouch??

Also, the suggested changes in the Wikia are tailored to RC3, I think, rather than theRippa's version. eg:servo section.

If you are using 1.1.0-RC3, be sure to set the motherboard type to BOARD_RAMPS_14_EFB or the servo won't work due to a pin conflict.
#define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_RAMPS_14_EFB

Also 4*60 is the default homing rate for 1.1.0-RC3, I think, so no change will be necessary there.

You can get a copy of my Configuration.h file for 1.1.0-RC3 here:
[www.thetechwizard.us]

It is for a x-endstop on the left, and stock extruder.

The instruction on Wikia were based on 1.1.0RC2, which is the firmware I'm running. I have changed the wikia page to reflect this. I'm not sure what version therippa is running!?!? If it is in fact RC3 we must all keep in mind the following statement on github...

Release Candidate -- Marlin 1.1.0-RC3 - 01 December 2015

"Not for production use – use with caution!"

To honest I'm not familiar enough with Marlin to know exactly what that means, nor whether it really matters or not. But it seems to me to be indicating it is a living firmware, that can be changed at anytime!?!?

That's the reason I pick RC2, it was latest so called released version I could find.

Maybe once rippa forks it, his version doesn't change, again, I don't know, but I'm sure rippa can clarify.

I also changed the note referring to the speed change, it was only necessary if you were having issues between probing (alarm) which I was having and I believe only related to the Yellow version!?!? It was one of those things that took me literally days to figure out, so I wanted to bring it to light to maybe same other some time...

The motherboard changes Bert recommend did not apply to RC2, at least not for me, my motherboard is MOTHERBOARD BOARD_RAMPS_13_EEB (note: EEB is require over EFB for dual extruders).

tjnamtiw,

As far as the racketing, I never experienced it with my Z setup (8mm Lead Screws Igus bearings) running between probes at 4*60 (hell I even ran them at 4*100 for a while, but it was scary fast...still worked though), so I'm not sure what's going on there. If you're running lead screws there might be a bit of an alignment issues or binding you simply don't see at lower speeds, if you're still running the M5 allthread that very well might be it!?!? But if it's working now at 50 I would leave it there.

Thanks for bringing this up, the Wikia needs to be proofed by everyone so we can catch these errors and the instruction that might make since to some of use but not explained well enough for everyone to get it. It always sounds good in the author head when he's writing it, but that doesn't mean it's written well LOL

It sounds like you used the Wikia guide to get the BLtouch setup, if so please let me know what you think and how we can improve it...

Edit: This reply is a prime example of how easy it is to make mistakes when writing (or at least for me)...I just reread it and found two types

Thanks, Sonny. Yep, you're the reason I'm set up for the RC2 version. I remembered that you said it performed the best for the BLTouch. I'm still running the threaded rod and will have to look into why I was getting all the skipping. I had everything miked so both sides are identically high as well as parallel. I also have moly antisieze on the threaded rod to slow down wear. I can't imagine how fast lead screws must be moving the Z axis at 240!!! I'll go up slowly once I have things sorted out.

I had this same problem, I believe it's a resonance issue. For me it went away at 8*60, but that was too fast, It was also gone at 3*60. I'm not sure if the bltouch needs faster speeds than 3*60, but that's where mine is now and the steppers are now longer going crazy. I'm also still running the threaded rods until i can get more consistency with some other parts i recently replaced, then I plan to print all the parts to do step 1 of a 3 part massive upgrade.

Quote
rollinns

Quote
tjnamtiw

Quote
sonnylowe

Quote
Bert3D

Quote
tjnamtiw
I put this message in a separate message rather than put it where everyone hangs out.

In preparation for my installation of the BLTouch probe for ABL, I moved the X end stop, made the appropriate changes, and tested to be sure everything was OK. Now I loaded Marlin's 1.1.0 RC2 and changed what needed to be changed but upon homing, X and Y both went correctly and Z went toward home but both Z steppers went nuts making racket, which I assumed was skipping steps. I saw in config.h "#define HOMING_FEEDRATE {50*60, 50*60, 4*60, 0} // set the homing speeds (mm/min)". In therippa's version and my old version, the Z feedrate was set at 50, no 240, so I changed that to 50 and all was good. Before making that change, however, even if I RAISED the Z axis, it made that racket. I'm not sure if there is somewhere else that sets Z axis speed very high.

In any event, in the new Wikia, where BLTouch is addressed a comment is made that BLTouch doesn't like to move slowly between probes and you may have to put the Z feedrate at 4*60 (240). I don't think that's going to work without some other workaround, if indeed, you need that much speed. I did raise my Z driver voltage from .240 to .350 with no change. I didn't go any higher.

Any suggestions from those who are using BLTouch??

Also, the suggested changes in the Wikia are tailored to RC3, I think, rather than theRippa's version. eg:servo section.

If you are using 1.1.0-RC3, be sure to set the motherboard type to BOARD_RAMPS_14_EFB or the servo won't work due to a pin conflict.
#define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_RAMPS_14_EFB

Also 4*60 is the default homing rate for 1.1.0-RC3, I think, so no change will be necessary there.

You can get a copy of my Configuration.h file for 1.1.0-RC3 here:
[www.thetechwizard.us]

It is for a x-endstop on the left, and stock extruder.

The instruction on Wikia were based on 1.1.0RC2, which is the firmware I'm running. I have changed the wikia page to reflect this. I'm not sure what version therippa is running!?!? If it is in fact RC3 we must all keep in mind the following statement on github...

Release Candidate -- Marlin 1.1.0-RC3 - 01 December 2015

"Not for production use – use with caution!"

To honest I'm not familiar enough with Marlin to know exactly what that means, nor whether it really matters or not. But it seems to me to be indicating it is a living firmware, that can be changed at anytime!?!?

That's the reason I pick RC2, it was latest so called released version I could find.

Maybe once rippa forks it, his version doesn't change, again, I don't know, but I'm sure rippa can clarify.

I also changed the note referring to the speed change, it was only necessary if you were having issues between probing (alarm) which I was having and I believe only related to the Yellow version!?!? It was one of those things that took me literally days to figure out, so I wanted to bring it to light to maybe same other some time...

The motherboard changes Bert recommend did not apply to RC2, at least not for me, my motherboard is MOTHERBOARD BOARD_RAMPS_13_EEB (note: EEB is require over EFB for dual extruders).

tjnamtiw,

As far as the racketing, I never experienced it with my Z setup (8mm Lead Screws Igus bearings) running between probes at 4*60 (hell I even ran them at 4*100 for a while, but it was scary fast...still worked though), so I'm not sure what's going on there. If you're running lead screws there might be a bit of an alignment issues or binding you simply don't see at lower speeds, if you're still running the M5 allthread that very well might be it!?!? But if it's working now at 50 I would leave it there.

Thanks for bringing this up, the Wikia needs to be proofed by everyone so we can catch these errors and the instruction that might make since to some of use but not explained well enough for everyone to get it. It always sounds good in the author head when he's writing it, but that doesn't mean it's written well LOL

It sounds like you used the Wikia guide to get the BLtouch setup, if so please let me know what you think and how we can improve it...

Edit: This reply is a prime example of how easy it is to make mistakes when writing (or at least for me)...I just reread it and found two types

Thanks, Sonny. Yep, you're the reason I'm set up for the RC2 version. I remembered that you said it performed the best for the BLTouch. I'm still running the threaded rod and will have to look into why I was getting all the skipping. I had everything miked so both sides are identically high as well as parallel. I also have moly antisieze on the threaded rod to slow down wear. I can't imagine how fast lead screws must be moving the Z axis at 240!!! I'll go up slowly once I have things sorted out.

I had this same problem, I believe it's a resonance issue. For me it went away at 8*60, but that was too fast, It was also gone at 3*60. I'm not sure if the bltouch needs faster speeds than 3*60, but that's where mine is now and the steppers are now longer going crazy. I'm also still running the threaded rods until i can get more consistency with some other parts i recently replaced, then I plan to print all the parts to do step 1 of a 3 part massive upgrade.

Thanks! I'll try that today, hopefully.

---

Folger Tech 2020 i3 and FT-5 as well as modified JGAurora A5 with direct drive E3D/Titan. All running the BLTOUCH.
Great kits. Having fun and running the heck out of them.
Running Marlin 1.1.0 RC8 on the i3 and FT5. Custom firmware on A5.
Folger Tech Wiki board >[folgertech.wikia.com]

Quote
tjnamtiw

Quote
rollinns

Quote
tjnamtiw

Quote
sonnylowe

Quote
Bert3D

Quote
tjnamtiw
I put this message in a separate message rather than put it where everyone hangs out.

In preparation for my installation of the BLTouch probe for ABL, I moved the X end stop, made the appropriate changes, and tested to be sure everything was OK. Now I loaded Marlin's 1.1.0 RC2 and changed what needed to be changed but upon homing, X and Y both went correctly and Z went toward home but both Z steppers went nuts making racket, which I assumed was skipping steps. I saw in config.h "#define HOMING_FEEDRATE {50*60, 50*60, 4*60, 0} // set the homing speeds (mm/min)". In therippa's version and my old version, the Z feedrate was set at 50, no 240, so I changed that to 50 and all was good. Before making that change, however, even if I RAISED the Z axis, it made that racket. I'm not sure if there is somewhere else that sets Z axis speed very high.

In any event, in the new Wikia, where BLTouch is addressed a comment is made that BLTouch doesn't like to move slowly between probes and you may have to put the Z feedrate at 4*60 (240). I don't think that's going to work without some other workaround, if indeed, you need that much speed. I did raise my Z driver voltage from .240 to .350 with no change. I didn't go any higher.

Any suggestions from those who are using BLTouch??

Also, the suggested changes in the Wikia are tailored to RC3, I think, rather than theRippa's version. eg:servo section.

If you are using 1.1.0-RC3, be sure to set the motherboard type to BOARD_RAMPS_14_EFB or the servo won't work due to a pin conflict.
#define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_RAMPS_14_EFB

Also 4*60 is the default homing rate for 1.1.0-RC3, I think, so no change will be necessary there.

You can get a copy of my Configuration.h file for 1.1.0-RC3 here:
[www.thetechwizard.us]

It is for a x-endstop on the left, and stock extruder.

The instruction on Wikia were based on 1.1.0RC2, which is the firmware I'm running. I have changed the wikia page to reflect this. I'm not sure what version therippa is running!?!? If it is in fact RC3 we must all keep in mind the following statement on github...

Release Candidate -- Marlin 1.1.0-RC3 - 01 December 2015

"Not for production use – use with caution!"

To honest I'm not familiar enough with Marlin to know exactly what that means, nor whether it really matters or not. But it seems to me to be indicating it is a living firmware, that can be changed at anytime!?!?

That's the reason I pick RC2, it was latest so called released version I could find.

Maybe once rippa forks it, his version doesn't change, again, I don't know, but I'm sure rippa can clarify.

I also changed the note referring to the speed change, it was only necessary if you were having issues between probing (alarm) which I was having and I believe only related to the Yellow version!?!? It was one of those things that took me literally days to figure out, so I wanted to bring it to light to maybe same other some time...

The motherboard changes Bert recommend did not apply to RC2, at least not for me, my motherboard is MOTHERBOARD BOARD_RAMPS_13_EEB (note: EEB is require over EFB for dual extruders).

tjnamtiw,

As far as the racketing, I never experienced it with my Z setup (8mm Lead Screws Igus bearings) running between probes at 4*60 (hell I even ran them at 4*100 for a while, but it was scary fast...still worked though), so I'm not sure what's going on there. If you're running lead screws there might be a bit of an alignment issues or binding you simply don't see at lower speeds, if you're still running the M5 allthread that very well might be it!?!? But if it's working now at 50 I would leave it there.

Thanks for bringing this up, the Wikia needs to be proofed by everyone so we can catch these errors and the instruction that might make since to some of use but not explained well enough for everyone to get it. It always sounds good in the author head when he's writing it, but that doesn't mean it's written well LOL

It sounds like you used the Wikia guide to get the BLtouch setup, if so please let me know what you think and how we can improve it...

Edit: This reply is a prime example of how easy it is to make mistakes when writing (or at least for me)...I just reread it and found two types

Thanks, Sonny. Yep, you're the reason I'm set up for the RC2 version. I remembered that you said it performed the best for the BLTouch. I'm still running the threaded rod and will have to look into why I was getting all the skipping. I had everything miked so both sides are identically high as well as parallel. I also have moly antisieze on the threaded rod to slow down wear. I can't imagine how fast lead screws must be moving the Z axis at 240!!! I'll go up slowly once I have things sorted out.

I had this same problem, I believe it's a resonance issue. For me it went away at 8*60, but that was too fast, It was also gone at 3*60. I'm not sure if the bltouch needs faster speeds than 3*60, but that's where mine is now and the steppers are now longer going crazy. I'm also still running the threaded rods until i can get more consistency with some other parts i recently replaced, then I plan to print all the parts to do step 1 of a 3 part massive upgrade.

Thanks! I'll try that today, hopefully.

With the M8x2 lead screws the Z e-steps are 400, the M5x0.8 are they are 4000...that could be the reason for the resonance!?!? If the BLtouch runs through G29 without alarming it really doesn't matter what speed you between probes, it will simple take a bit long. If it takes too long simple change #define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_GRID_POINTS 3 to #define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_GRID_POINTS 2, that will reduce the number of hits to 4 instead of 9.

---

My Stuff on Thingi

FolgerTech Wikia Page

Custom Search by Animoose

MakerSL.com

Quote
Bert3D
It is my understanding that 1.1.0-RC3 is recommended over earlier versions of the 1.1 branch, despite the disclaimer. In fact, right after the disclaimer, is a line saying earlier versions of Marlin are not recommended, as I highlighted below.

1.1.0-RC3 is working well for me, other than the change to how they handle the motherboard type, which caught me by surprise, and made my servo stop working. Since BLTouch uses the servo signal also, I assume it will need the same change when you go to RC3 or the final released version of 1.1 once it comes out. If you are using a proximity sensor that doesn't need the servo signal, it probably would not matter.

Quote
Marlin Readme
Release Candidate -- Marlin 1.1.0-RC3 - 01 December 2015

Not for production use – use with caution!

Previously tagged versions of Marlin are not recommended. However, the latest patches to the Marlin 1.0 series can be found in the 1.0.x branch.

The config I posted is for the single stock extruder, with the x-endstop on the left, and servo auto level, and lead screw on the z axis. It should be close to what the BLTouch needs, other than the z probe offsets and maybe servo angles, but I expect it is unlikely that anyone would have the exact same z-probe offsets. There is too much possible variance in how the extruder and probe can be mounted, even if you are using the exact same extruder, throat, nozzle, probes and mounts.

This is what makes having a "standard config" on the wiki harder.

Bert,

I agree, although I'm not sure how to word it on Wikia, other than saying the config changes with different setups!?!? I do however think it covers the basics and should get people close!!! The fine tuning will be the responsibility of each individual to figure out.

I'll add a note about the Motherboard to Wikia, thanks for the heads up on the various versions of RC...

---

My Stuff on Thingi

FolgerTech Wikia Page

Custom Search by Animoose

MakerSL.com

Can anyone recommend a good wiki on tuning the stepper drivers. Looked in the wikia and didn't see anything.

Thx

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/24/2016 04:13PM by marc2912.

I swapped out my E3D lite6 for a full E3D today. I was having problems with the E3D lite - the extruder kept clicking and losing steps, and this was because something was not letting the filament flow freely. I'm not sure if it was that the top of the PTFE tube had a slightly ragged edge of whether there was deposited plastic inside. I tried cleaning it out a month or so ago and there was a ton of plastic buried inside it then. The problems was showing up as more and more under extrusion. The full E3D seems nicer and hopefully won't be as prone to the same problems. In retrospect, it was a false economy to buy the lite version.

Before and after pictures of the same object, showing the under extrusion: [goo.gl]

---

See my blog at [moosteria.blogspot.com].

Quote
animoose
I swapped out my E3D lite6 for a full E3D today. I was having problems with the E3D lite - the extruder kept clicking and losing steps, and this was because something was not letting the filament flow freely. I'm not sure if it was that the top of the PTFE tube had a slightly ragged edge of whether there was deposited plastic inside. I tried cleaning it out a month or so ago and there was a ton of plastic buried inside it then. The problems was showing up as more and more under extrusion. The full E3D seems nicer and hopefully won't be as prone to the same problems. In retrospect, it was a false economy to buy the lite version.

Before and after pictures of the same object, showing the under extrusion: [goo.gl]

I kept getting that too so I swapped the extruder for a belt driven geared down one. [www.ebay.com] I didn't change anything on the hotend and I am not having any more extrusion problems.

---

Newbie with Folgertech 2020 i3.

Is this the reccomended guide I use for building the printer?
EDIT
Forgot to put the link!
[github.com]

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/24/2016 07:15PM by UltiFix.

Quote
sonnylowe

Quote
Bert3D

Quote
tjnamtiw
I put this message in a separate message rather than put it where everyone hangs out.

In preparation for my installation of the BLTouch probe for ABL, I moved the X end stop, made the appropriate changes, and tested to be sure everything was OK. Now I loaded Marlin's 1.1.0 RC2 and changed what needed to be changed but upon homing, X and Y both went correctly and Z went toward home but both Z steppers went nuts making racket, which I assumed was skipping steps. I saw in config.h "#define HOMING_FEEDRATE {50*60, 50*60, 4*60, 0} // set the homing speeds (mm/min)". In therippa's version and my old version, the Z feedrate was set at 50, no 240, so I changed that to 50 and all was good. Before making that change, however, even if I RAISED the Z axis, it made that racket. I'm not sure if there is somewhere else that sets Z axis speed very high.

In any event, in the new Wikia, where BLTouch is addressed a comment is made that BLTouch doesn't like to move slowly between probes and you may have to put the Z feedrate at 4*60 (240). I don't think that's going to work without some other workaround, if indeed, you need that much speed. I did raise my Z driver voltage from .240 to .350 with no change. I didn't go any higher.

Any suggestions from those who are using BLTouch??

Also, the suggested changes in the Wikia are tailored to RC3, I think, rather than theRippa's version. eg:servo section.

If you are using 1.1.0-RC3, be sure to set the motherboard type to BOARD_RAMPS_14_EFB or the servo won't work due to a pin conflict.
#define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_RAMPS_14_EFB

Also 4*60 is the default homing rate for 1.1.0-RC3, I think, so no change will be necessary there.

You can get a copy of my Configuration.h file for 1.1.0-RC3 here:
[www.thetechwizard.us]

It is for a x-endstop on the left, and stock extruder.

The instruction on Wikia were based on 1.1.0RC2, which is the firmware I'm running. I have changed the wikia page to reflect this. I'm not sure what version therippa is running!?!? If it is in fact RC3 we must all keep in mind the following statement on github...

Release Candidate -- Marlin 1.1.0-RC3 - 01 December 2015

"Not for production use – use with caution!"

To honest I'm not familiar enough with Marlin to know exactly what that means, nor whether it really matters or not. But it seems to me to be indicating it is a living firmware, that can be changed at anytime!?!?

That's the reason I pick RC2, it was latest so called released version I could find.

Maybe once rippa forks it, his version doesn't change, again, I don't know, but I'm sure rippa can clarify.

I also changed the note referring to the speed change, it was only necessary if you were having issues between probing (alarm) which I was having and I believe only related to the Yellow version!?!? It was one of those things that took me literally days to figure out, so I wanted to bring it to light to maybe same other some time...

The motherboard changes Bert recommend did not apply to RC2, at least not for me, my motherboard is MOTHERBOARD BOARD_RAMPS_13_EEB (note: EEB is require over EFB for dual extruders).

tjnamtiw,

As far as the racketing, I never experienced it with my Z setup (8mm Lead Screws Igus bearings) running between probes at 4*60 (hell I even ran them at 4*100 for a while, but it was scary fast...still worked though), so I'm not sure what's going on there. If you're running lead screws there might be a bit of an alignment issues or binding you simply don't see at lower speeds, if you're still running the M5 allthread that very well might be it!?!? But if it's working now at 50 I would leave it there.

Thanks for bringing this up, the Wikia needs to be proofed by everyone so we can catch these errors and the instruction that might make since to some of use but not explained well enough for everyone to get it. It always sounds good in the author head when he's writing it, but that doesn't mean it's written well LOL

It sounds like you used the Wikia guide to get the BLtouch setup, if so please let me know what you think and how we can improve it...

Edit: This reply is a prime example of how easy it is to make mistakes when writing (or at least for me)...I just reread it and found two types

You should be using the RC3 version, they fixed a bunch of bugs in it and it is more stable than RC2. They give that disclaimer for all of the release candidates, it just means "we aren't sure we've worked all of the kinks out, use with caution". I've been running RC3 since it came out in early December with no issues.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/24/2016 06:39PM by therippa.

---

Need help? Visit the Folgertech Wikia Page

The latest Marlin firmware with Folgertech Prusa i3 settings merged in, get it here

And check out my designs on Thingiverse, and follow me if you like what you see!