Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread)

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UltiFix
Can anybody reccomend if the hatchbox glow in the dark is any good?
[www.amazon.com]

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jabu32
Anyone mess with the swap filament command? M600

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msaeger
I finally got around to installing Sonny's v-slot Y axis. I would defiantly recommend doing this as your first upgrade. It is only slightly quieter than what I had but I spent a lot of time and went through many iterations to get it as quiet as it was. Installing this was so much easier than the rods and bearings you don't really need to worry about getting anything lined up like with the stock setup. I want to switch to the v-slot X axis too but first I think I will do something about the power supply. I am thinking about modding an ATX one because I can't find and LED strip type with enough power that doesn't have a fan so I doubt they would be quieter than what I have now.

Here's a pic and video of my Sonnytech printer [goo.gl]

Thanks Sonny!

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LancelotL
[attachment 71927 IMG_1870.JPG]Need help diagnosing the problem shown in the photo. Seems that anytime I print a relatively large rectangular object 1/2" thick or more, the corners peel up. I'm printing ABS, extruder at 220 and bed at 100 with 25% infiill. Printing directly to the glass with good adhesion on the first layer. I have run autotune on the bed and was hoping that would fix it but it didn't. Maybe I need to try increasing the bed to 110?

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jabu32
Anyone mess with the swap filament command? M600

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msaeger

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LancelotL
[attachment 71927 IMG_1870.JPG]Need help diagnosing the problem shown in the photo. Seems that anytime I print a relatively large rectangular object 1/2" thick or more, the corners peel up. I'm printing ABS, extruder at 220 and bed at 100 with 25% infiill. Printing directly to the glass with good adhesion on the first layer. I have run autotune on the bed and was hoping that would fix it but it didn't. Maybe I need to try increasing the bed to 110?

What are you putting on the glass to make it stick? I have found just coating the glass with white elmers glue and letting the heated bed dry it to be the best. It's hard to get stuff off sometimes but it's not warping.

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LancelotL

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msaeger

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LancelotL
[attachment 71927 IMG_1870.JPG]Need help diagnosing the problem shown in the photo. Seems that anytime I print a relatively large rectangular object 1/2" thick or more, the corners peel up. I'm printing ABS, extruder at 220 and bed at 100 with 25% infiill. Printing directly to the glass with good adhesion on the first layer. I have run autotune on the bed and was hoping that would fix it but it didn't. Maybe I need to try increasing the bed to 110?

What are you putting on the glass to make it stick? I have found just coating the glass with white elmers glue and letting the heated bed dry it to be the best. It's hard to get stuff off sometimes but it's not warping.

I don't put anything on the bed as I like the mirror polish I get from direct contact as well as the constant gap. I may have to try that though if the higher temp doesn't work. I am also going to use a skirt net time to see if that helps. Thanks!

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LancelotL

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msaeger

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LancelotL
[attachment 71927 IMG_1870.JPG]Need help diagnosing the problem shown in the photo. Seems that anytime I print a relatively large rectangular object 1/2" thick or more, the corners peel up. I'm printing ABS, extruder at 220 and bed at 100 with 25% infiill. Printing directly to the glass with good adhesion on the first layer. I have run autotune on the bed and was hoping that would fix it but it didn't. Maybe I need to try increasing the bed to 110?

What are you putting on the glass to make it stick? I have found just coating the glass with white elmers glue and letting the heated bed dry it to be the best. It's hard to get stuff off sometimes but it's not warping.

I don't put anything on the bed as I like the mirror polish I get from direct contact as well as the constant gap. I may have to try that though if the higher temp doesn't work. I am also going to use a skirt net time to see if that helps. Thanks!

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UltiFix
So when I print 2 objects like one has a piece that fit's into another piece, male and female the female piece is to small, maybe the male end is to big to. How do I get my printer to print the scale right?

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UltiFix
So when I print 2 objects like one has a piece that fit's into another piece, male and female the female piece is to small, maybe the male end is to big to. How do I get my printer to print the scale right?

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marc2912

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UltiFix
So when I print 2 objects like one has a piece that fit's into another piece, male and female the female piece is to small, maybe the male end is to big to. How do I get my printer to print the scale right?

At this time what have you tried? Tuning your printer is a time consuming process which leaves a slightly different printer for everyone. Did you tune your x, y and z axis, and if yes how so? How precise was your tuning? Did you tune your extruder? Have you tried different slicer settings? Different extruder and bed temperatures? Just posting questions like above really make it difficult to help you without knowing if you've done anything to help yourself.

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Mach

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UltiFix
So when I print 2 objects like one has a piece that fit's into another piece, male and female the female piece is to small, maybe the male end is to big to. How do I get my printer to print the scale right?

The two options are to scale it, or to modify it in a cad program. The downside of simply scaling it is that features that you do not want to scale will scale in addition to the improperly sized features.

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UltiFix
So when I print 2 objects like one has a piece that fit's into another piece, male and female the female piece is to small, maybe the male end is to big to. How do I get my printer to print the scale right?

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UltiFix
I have a 12mm proximity sensor coming, how do you reccomend I mount it to the stock folgertech 2020 extruder? I looked on thingiverse and didn't find anything for the folger tech...
[www.thingiverse.com]

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UltiFix

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marc2912

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UltiFix
So when I print 2 objects like one has a piece that fit's into another piece, male and female the female piece is to small, maybe the male end is to big to. How do I get my printer to print the scale right?

At this time what have you tried? Tuning your printer is a time consuming process which leaves a slightly different printer for everyone. Did you tune your x, y and z axis, and if yes how so? How precise was your tuning? Did you tune your extruder? Have you tried different slicer settings? Different extruder and bed temperatures? Just posting questions like above really make it difficult to help you without knowing if you've done anything to help yourself.

Good point, I have calibrated the extruder and that's it... Should I start off by printing a cube and seeing where im at?
Im printing PLA at 210 and bed at 75
I calibrated the extruder by marking the PLA at 150mm and then extruded 100mm and checked the mark to see how far off my printer was.

Thanks!
-Sam

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marc2912

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UltiFix

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marc2912

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UltiFix
So when I print 2 objects like one has a piece that fit's into another piece, male and female the female piece is to small, maybe the male end is to big to. How do I get my printer to print the scale right?

At this time what have you tried? Tuning your printer is a time consuming process which leaves a slightly different printer for everyone. Did you tune your x, y and z axis, and if yes how so? How precise was your tuning? Did you tune your extruder? Have you tried different slicer settings? Different extruder and bed temperatures? Just posting questions like above really make it difficult to help you without knowing if you've done anything to help yourself.

Good point, I have calibrated the extruder and that's it... Should I start off by printing a cube and seeing where im at?
Im printing PLA at 210 and bed at 75
I calibrated the extruder by marking the PLA at 150mm and then extruded 100mm and checked the mark to see how far off my printer was.

Thanks!
-Sam

That seems really hot for pla but if you're sure you've calibrated it right then yes, I'd move on to calibrating your axis. If you start changing extrusion multiplier or changing the size in the FTL you might be masking issues with your setup that will creep up and mess you up later.

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jhitesma

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UltiFix
I have a 12mm proximity sensor coming, how do you reccomend I mount it to the stock folgertech 2020 extruder? I looked on thingiverse and didn't find anything for the folger tech...
[www.thingiverse.com]

I'm partial to this one I designed: [www.thingiverse.com]

It's based off another I found for the folger combined with a print cooling fan mount I use. I have both a 12mm and a 18mm version uploaded now. The 18mm version is a bit more fine tuned than the 12mm since I'm now using the 18mm sensor as it's improved sensing really makes a big difference for me.

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UltiFix
So I made this in google sketchup, but when I put the file in rep host it looks like it should. But when I slice it, it no longer has the hole in it?
Why?

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animoose

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UltiFix
So I made this in google sketchup, but when I put the file in rep host it looks like it should. But when I slice it, it no longer has the hole in it?
Why?

Might be the normals pointing the wrong way. That is, the faces of the inset portion might be pointing inwards rather than outwards. The fact that the faces are colored differently and you can see the grid showing through suggests something like this is wrong. I don't know sketchup, so I don't know if you can check and fix this (you can in Blender, which is what I usually use). Also try putting it through netfabb.azurewebsites.net to see if that fixes it.

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Mach

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animoose

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UltiFix
So I made this in google sketchup, but when I put the file in rep host it looks like it should. But when I slice it, it no longer has the hole in it?
Why?

Might be the normals pointing the wrong way. That is, the faces of the inset portion might be pointing inwards rather than outwards. The fact that the faces are colored differently and you can see the grid showing through suggests something like this is wrong. I don't know sketchup, so I don't know if you can check and fix this (you can in Blender, which is what I usually use). Also try putting it through netfabb.azurewebsites.net to see if that fixes it.

Animoose is correct. In sketchup, faces will appear gray when they are backward and white when they are the correct way. You can reverse the face by right clicking on it and selecting "reverse face". Also, all of the faces need to have depth to them, or else they will just be 2D, which cannot actually exist. The face on the bottom and sides of your model is perpetually flat.

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animoose

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UltiFix
So I made this in google sketchup, but when I put the file in rep host it looks like it should. But when I slice it, it no longer has the hole in it?
Why?

Might be the normals pointing the wrong way. That is, the faces of the inset portion might be pointing inwards rather than outwards. The fact that the faces are colored differently and you can see the grid showing through suggests something like this is wrong. I don't know sketchup, so I don't know if you can check and fix this (you can in Blender, which is what I usually use). Also try putting it through netfabb.azurewebsites.net to see if that fixes it.

IMG_1872.JPG

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msaeger

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LancelotL

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msaeger

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LancelotL
[attachment 71927 IMG_1870.JPG]Need help diagnosing the problem shown in the photo. Seems that anytime I print a relatively large rectangular object 1/2" thick or more, the corners peel up. I'm printing ABS, extruder at 220 and bed at 100 with 25% infiill. Printing directly to the glass with good adhesion on the first layer. I have run autotune on the bed and was hoping that would fix it but it didn't. Maybe I need to try increasing the bed to 110?

What are you putting on the glass to make it stick? I have found just coating the glass with white elmers glue and letting the heated bed dry it to be the best. It's hard to get stuff off sometimes but it's not warping.

I don't put anything on the bed as I like the mirror polish I get from direct contact as well as the constant gap. I may have to try that though if the higher temp doesn't work. I am also going to use a skirt net time to see if that helps. Thanks!

You can try a brim but from what I have seen with something that large it will still warp. If I mix some glue with a few drops of water and painting it on with a brush I still get a smooth bottom. I was sick of messing with the brush so I have started just smearing on the straight glue which ends up not being as smooth.

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UltiFix

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Mach

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animoose

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UltiFix
So I made this in google sketchup, but when I put the file in rep host it looks like it should. But when I slice it, it no longer has the hole in it?
Why?

Might be the normals pointing the wrong way. That is, the faces of the inset portion might be pointing inwards rather than outwards. The fact that the faces are colored differently and you can see the grid showing through suggests something like this is wrong. I don't know sketchup, so I don't know if you can check and fix this (you can in Blender, which is what I usually use). Also try putting it through netfabb.azurewebsites.net to see if that fixes it.

Animoose is correct. In sketchup, faces will appear gray when they are backward and white when they are the correct way. You can reverse the face by right clicking on it and selecting "reverse face". Also, all of the faces need to have depth to them, or else they will just be 2D, which cannot actually exist. The face on the bottom and sides of your model is perpetually flat.

I reversed the face so it's white now, but im not sure how to add depth to my faces? Using the push pull tool it just expends my entire model
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