Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread)

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UltiFix

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animoose

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UltiFix
So I made this in google sketchup, but when I put the file in rep host it looks like it should. But when I slice it, it no longer has the hole in it?
Why?

Might be the normals pointing the wrong way. That is, the faces of the inset portion might be pointing inwards rather than outwards. The fact that the faces are colored differently and you can see the grid showing through suggests something like this is wrong. I don't know sketchup, so I don't know if you can check and fix this (you can in Blender, which is what I usually use). Also try putting it through netfabb.azurewebsites.net to see if that fixes it.

I did try going through netfabb How did you learn to use blender? Can you reccomend a good youtube series on learning it?
It seems to have a huge learning curve..

Blender is very difficult to get to grips with, and I use it mostly because I had already done some work with it. There are tons of tutorials around, mostly on sites specific to blender rather than on youtube.

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See my blog at [moosteria.blogspot.com].

I'm planning on doing the v-slot upgrade for my X & Y axis. Y axis is pretty simple and straight forward.

On the X axis I've been looking at this Folgertech Prusa i3 2020 X-Axis Upgrade (Openbuilds V-Slot Rail System) and thinking... why not use the( OpenRail Linear rail on the vertical towers and mount the x axis between them? I can use a gantry plates on both sides, have the X axis rail shorter with mounting brackets that hold a bearing on each gantry to act as an idler/tensioner for the belt, mount the x axis stepper on the back of the z axis rail. I could move the power supply and electronics to the outside of the frame. this would allow me to move all the parts inside of the frame on the left and right side (I eventually plan to build a box as the ambient temp of my basement is 13c - I would mount the power supply and ramps outside the box for cooling)

before I start drawing this up I want to see if anyone else has thought of doing this... of if someone already has... no need to re-invent the wheel...

thanks

buffcleb
My Folgertech i3 build videos

So I have issues this morning, I didn't get a hole lot of time to diagnose it before heading out. I went to print an item and the extruder motor started clicking. So I stop the print and move the extrude to a clear spot to run a few quick test on. It wasn't extruding like normal so tweak the driver board pot a little to see if that help and swapped drive boards. None of that work. Thinking later when I get back home, taking it apart and check it for blockage. Also planning on testing the extrude motor on the x axis. So if none that works, where is a good source to get motors from. Looking at Amazon, simple due to having a prime account, but may go a different way depending suggest.

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Mopar99
So I have issues this morning, I didn't get a hole lot of time to diagnose it before heading out. I went to print an item and the extruder motor started clicking. So I stop the print and move the extrude to a clear spot to run a few quick test on. It wasn't extruding like normal so tweak the driver board pot a little to see if that help and swapped drive boards. None of that work. Thinking later when I get back home, taking it apart and check it for blockage. Also planning on testing the extrude motor on the x axis. So if none that works, where is a good source to get motors from. Looking at Amazon, simple due to having a prime account, but may go a different way depending suggest.

When my extruder was clicking my extruder had gotten so close to the bed it wouldn't actually extrude anything... Once I lifted it off of the bed it extruded fine.

Quote
UltiFix

Quote
Mopar99
So I have issues this morning, I didn't get a hole lot of time to diagnose it before heading out. I went to print an item and the extruder motor started clicking. So I stop the print and move the extrude to a clear spot to run a few quick test on. It wasn't extruding like normal so tweak the driver board pot a little to see if that help and swapped drive boards. None of that work. Thinking later when I get back home, taking it apart and check it for blockage. Also planning on testing the extrude motor on the x axis. So if none that works, where is a good source to get motors from. Looking at Amazon, simple due to having a prime account, but may go a different way depending suggest.

When my extruder was clicking my extruder had gotten so close to the bed it wouldn't actually extrude anything... Once I lifted it off of the bed it extruded fine.

Mine is doing it 10 mm above the bed... So I'm hope it's just clogged even though I did turn the temp up on the hot end to help move things along. Really wanting to swap out the brass gear and bearing for a different setup... Just don't like the bearing having a grove in it. I keep waiting for the filament to get caught in it.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/07/2016 02:18PM by Mopar99.

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buffcleb
I'm planning on doing the v-slot upgrade for my X & Y axis. Y axis is pretty simple and straight forward.

On the X axis I've been looking at this Folgertech Prusa i3 2020 X-Axis Upgrade (Openbuilds V-Slot Rail System) and thinking... why not use the( OpenRail Linear rail on the vertical towers and mount the x axis between them? I can use a gantry plates on both sides, have the X axis rail shorter with mounting brackets that hold a bearing on each gantry to act as an idler/tensioner for the belt, mount the x axis stepper on the back of the z axis rail. I could move the power supply and electronics to the outside of the frame. this would allow me to move all the parts inside of the frame on the left and right side (I eventually plan to build a box as the ambient temp of my basement is 13c - I would mount the power supply and ramps outside the box for cooling)

before I start drawing this up I want to see if anyone else has thought of doing this... of if someone already has... no need to re-invent the wheel...

thanks

buffcleb
My Folgertech i3 build videos

I just joined the club; I have a USPS print label. I'm somebody. (Done with a Steve Martin - "The Jerk" tone of excitement.)

Sonnylowe's work is quite nice. I have yet to purchase the parts...I'm leaning toward an "all metal" solution for the x-gantry, similar to Sonnylowe's thingiverse style. I guess my hang up is the rod-feed-stepper location. I want to get it above the gantry/carriage with maybe the extruder running down the front edge of the gantry. Having all the mass of the stepper and extruder on one side makes the gantry 'want' to rotate. Another issue with my thought is that the openbuild nema-17 mount sticks out 9.75 mm on each side of the 2020 rail...I'll end up with a custom shim fabed from big box store aluminum. The idea of using linear rail with v rollers seems like a descent solution to removing the 8mm rods. The tower may need more support after you remove the power supply box. Maybe an OpenBuilds T Joining Plate would be enough.

My $300 printer just became a $450 dollar printer, ha ha ha. In for a penny in for a pound.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/07/2016 03:05PM by flatlander.

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buffcleb
I'm planning on doing the v-slot upgrade for my X & Y axis. Y axis is pretty simple and straight forward.

On the X axis I've been looking at this Folgertech Prusa i3 2020 X-Axis Upgrade (Openbuilds V-Slot Rail System) and thinking... why not use the( OpenRail Linear rail on the vertical towers and mount the x axis between them? I can use a gantry plates on both sides, have the X axis rail shorter with mounting brackets that hold a bearing on each gantry to act as an idler/tensioner for the belt, mount the x axis stepper on the back of the z axis rail. I could move the power supply and electronics to the outside of the frame. this would allow me to move all the parts inside of the frame on the left and right side (I eventually plan to build a box as the ambient temp of my basement is 13c - I would mount the power supply and ramps outside the box for cooling)

before I start drawing this up I want to see if anyone else has thought of doing this... of if someone already has... no need to re-invent the wheel...

thanks

buffcleb
My Folgertech i3 build videos

I need to see a picture So you are saying you would need three of these then? [openbuildspartstore.com] one on each vertical rail and one to mount the hotend/extruder on?

---

Newbie with Folgertech 2020 i3.

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msaeger

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buffcleb
I'm planning on doing the v-slot upgrade for my X & Y axis. Y axis is pretty simple and straight forward.

On the X axis I've been looking at this Folgertech Prusa i3 2020 X-Axis Upgrade (Openbuilds V-Slot Rail System) and thinking... why not use the( OpenRail Linear rail on the vertical towers and mount the x axis between them? I can use a gantry plates on both sides, have the X axis rail shorter with mounting brackets that hold a bearing on each gantry to act as an idler/tensioner for the belt, mount the x axis stepper on the back of the z axis rail. I could move the power supply and electronics to the outside of the frame. this would allow me to move all the parts inside of the frame on the left and right side (I eventually plan to build a box as the ambient temp of my basement is 13c - I would mount the power supply and ramps outside the box for cooling)

before I start drawing this up I want to see if anyone else has thought of doing this... of if someone already has... no need to re-invent the wheel...

thanks

buffcleb
My Folgertech i3 build videos

I need to see a picture So you are saying you would need three of these then? [openbuildspartstore.com] one on each vertical rail and one to mount the hotend/extruder on?

If I'm understanding it the same way as you I don't know how well that would work. If one of the the axis stepper misses a step, the impact on z would be minimal with screws, to the point that even when calibrating you wouldn't notice it. Switching both z axis steppers to belt drive and other events missing a step or worse, the belt skipping a tooth would have a much larger impact and effect on prints. I would keep the z upgrade to acme threaded rods. Also belts lifting a vertical are much more likely to slip that belts on an horizontal.

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marc2912

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msaeger

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buffcleb
I'm planning on doing the v-slot upgrade for my X & Y axis. Y axis is pretty simple and straight forward.

On the X axis I've been looking at this Folgertech Prusa i3 2020 X-Axis Upgrade (Openbuilds V-Slot Rail System) and thinking... why not use the( OpenRail Linear rail on the vertical towers and mount the x axis between them? I can use a gantry plates on both sides, have the X axis rail shorter with mounting brackets that hold a bearing on each gantry to act as an idler/tensioner for the belt, mount the x axis stepper on the back of the z axis rail. I could move the power supply and electronics to the outside of the frame. this would allow me to move all the parts inside of the frame on the left and right side (I eventually plan to build a box as the ambient temp of my basement is 13c - I would mount the power supply and ramps outside the box for cooling)

before I start drawing this up I want to see if anyone else has thought of doing this... of if someone already has... no need to re-invent the wheel...

thanks

buffcleb
My Folgertech i3 build videos

I need to see a picture So you are saying you would need three of these then? [openbuildspartstore.com] one on each vertical rail and one to mount the hotend/extruder on?

If I'm understanding it the same way as you I don't know how well that would work. If one of the the axis stepper misses a step, the impact on z would be minimal with screws, to the point that even when calibrating you wouldn't notice it. Switching both z axis steppers to belt drive and other events missing a step or worse, the belt skipping a tooth would have a much larger impact and effect on prints. I would keep the z upgrade to acme threaded rods. Also belts lifting a vertical are much more likely to slip that belts on an horizontal.

I wasn't thinking you would not have the screws. I was thinking you would just use the rails to eliminate the smooth rods and linear bearings.

---

Newbie with Folgertech 2020 i3.

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msaeger

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marc2912

Quote
msaeger

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buffcleb
I'm planning on doing the v-slot upgrade for my X & Y axis. Y axis is pretty simple and straight forward.

On the X axis I've been looking at this Folgertech Prusa i3 2020 X-Axis Upgrade (Openbuilds V-Slot Rail System) and thinking... why not use the( OpenRail Linear rail on the vertical towers and mount the x axis between them? I can use a gantry plates on both sides, have the X axis rail shorter with mounting brackets that hold a bearing on each gantry to act as an idler/tensioner for the belt, mount the x axis stepper on the back of the z axis rail. I could move the power supply and electronics to the outside of the frame. this would allow me to move all the parts inside of the frame on the left and right side (I eventually plan to build a box as the ambient temp of my basement is 13c - I would mount the power supply and ramps outside the box for cooling)

before I start drawing this up I want to see if anyone else has thought of doing this... of if someone already has... no need to re-invent the wheel...

thanks

buffcleb
My Folgertech i3 build videos

I need to see a picture So you are saying you would need three of these then? [openbuildspartstore.com] one on each vertical rail and one to mount the hotend/extruder on?

If I'm understanding it the same way as you I don't know how well that would work. If one of the the axis stepper misses a step, the impact on z would be minimal with screws, to the point that even when calibrating you wouldn't notice it. Switching both z axis steppers to belt drive and other events missing a step or worse, the belt skipping a tooth would have a much larger impact and effect on prints. I would keep the z upgrade to acme threaded rods. Also belts lifting a vertical are much more likely to slip that belts on an horizontal.

I wasn't thinking you would not have the screws. I was thinking you would just use the rails to eliminate the smooth rods and linear bearings.

Unless you've had issues with your z axis I'd leave it as is filed I was you, z barely moves and I've yet to see someone have problems with it.

Hey all.

Had my first real malfunction today and am not really sure where to start on troubleshooting. Started a print and went to take the girls to the mall. Came back and found that the printer had stopped shortly after I left. Only about 1.5 layers of the print were done and the nozzle was stuck in the nylon filament that had already been layed down. LCD panel said Error:Mintemp.

Hmmm. Never seen that before. So I freed the nozzle and homed X, Y and Z. Used Repetier manual control to turn on the hotend, which at this time was at room temp. Reading the repetier display, the temp of the hotend gets to about 80C and instantly goes to 0 and LCD display now reads Error:Mintemp. This is repeatable.

Any Ideas where to start troubleshooting?
Thanks
Sam

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msaeger

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marc2912

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msaeger

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buffcleb
I'm planning on doing the v-slot upgrade for my X & Y axis. Y axis is pretty simple and straight forward.

On the X axis I've been looking at this Folgertech Prusa i3 2020 X-Axis Upgrade (Openbuilds V-Slot Rail System) and thinking... why not use the( OpenRail Linear rail on the vertical towers and mount the x axis between them? I can use a gantry plates on both sides, have the X axis rail shorter with mounting brackets that hold a bearing on each gantry to act as an idler/tensioner for the belt, mount the x axis stepper on the back of the z axis rail. I could move the power supply and electronics to the outside of the frame. this would allow me to move all the parts inside of the frame on the left and right side (I eventually plan to build a box as the ambient temp of my basement is 13c - I would mount the power supply and ramps outside the box for cooling)

before I start drawing this up I want to see if anyone else has thought of doing this... of if someone already has... no need to re-invent the wheel...

thanks

buffcleb
My Folgertech i3 build videos

I need to see a picture So you are saying you would need three of these then? [openbuildspartstore.com] one on each vertical rail and one to mount the hotend/extruder on?

If I'm understanding it the same way as you I don't know how well that would work. If one of the the axis stepper misses a step, the impact on z would be minimal with screws, to the point that even when calibrating you wouldn't notice it. Switching both z axis steppers to belt drive and other events missing a step or worse, the belt skipping a tooth would have a much larger impact and effect on prints. I would keep the z upgrade to acme threaded rods. Also belts lifting a vertical are much more likely to slip that belts on an horizontal.

I wasn't thinking you would not have the screws. I was thinking you would just use the rails to eliminate the smooth rods and linear bearings.

correct I am leaving the screw in-place... this would just make everything contained between the vertical 2020 extrusion... making it more compact...

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JustAGuy
Hey all.

Had my first real malfunction today and am not really sure where to start on troubleshooting. Started a print and went to take the girls to the mall. Came back and found that the printer had stopped shortly after I left. Only about 1.5 layers of the print were done and the nozzle was stuck in the nylon filament that had already been layed down. LCD panel said Error:Mintemp.

Hmmm. Never seen that before. So I freed the nozzle and homed X, Y and Z. Used Repetier manual control to turn on the hotend, which at this time was at room temp. Reading the repetier display, the temp of the hotend gets to about 80C and instantly goes to 0 and LCD display now reads Error:Mintemp. This is repeatable.

Any Ideas where to start troubleshooting?
Thanks
Sam

That's the heater failsafe kicking in, probably because your bed is taking too long to come to temp.

---

Need help? Visit the Folgertech Wikia Page

The latest Marlin firmware with Folgertech Prusa i3 settings merged in, get it here

And check out my designs on Thingiverse, and follow me if you like what you see!

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marc2912

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msaeger

Quote
marc2912

Quote
msaeger

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buffcleb
I'm planning on doing the v-slot upgrade for my X & Y axis. Y axis is pretty simple and straight forward.

On the X axis I've been looking at this Folgertech Prusa i3 2020 X-Axis Upgrade (Openbuilds V-Slot Rail System) and thinking... why not use the( OpenRail Linear rail on the vertical towers and mount the x axis between them? I can use a gantry plates on both sides, have the X axis rail shorter with mounting brackets that hold a bearing on each gantry to act as an idler/tensioner for the belt, mount the x axis stepper on the back of the z axis rail. I could move the power supply and electronics to the outside of the frame. this would allow me to move all the parts inside of the frame on the left and right side (I eventually plan to build a box as the ambient temp of my basement is 13c - I would mount the power supply and ramps outside the box for cooling)

before I start drawing this up I want to see if anyone else has thought of doing this... of if someone already has... no need to re-invent the wheel...

thanks

buffcleb
My Folgertech i3 build videos

I need to see a picture So you are saying you would need three of these then? [openbuildspartstore.com] one on each vertical rail and one to mount the hotend/extruder on?

If I'm understanding it the same way as you I don't know how well that would work. If one of the the axis stepper misses a step, the impact on z would be minimal with screws, to the point that even when calibrating you wouldn't notice it. Switching both z axis steppers to belt drive and other events missing a step or worse, the belt skipping a tooth would have a much larger impact and effect on prints. I would keep the z upgrade to acme threaded rods. Also belts lifting a vertical are much more likely to slip that belts on an horizontal.

I wasn't thinking you would not have the screws. I was thinking you would just use the rails to eliminate the smooth rods and linear bearings.

Unless you've had issues with your z axis I'd leave it as is filed I was you, z barely moves and I've yet to see someone have problems with it.

Just trying to figure out what buffcleb's idea is.

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Newbie with Folgertech 2020 i3.

I've had a lot of clogs lately - mostly because the nozzle has been scraping on my aluminum bed and clogging it up with aluminum shavings! I have been using a steel acoustic guitar E string to clear it.. i just stick it on, floss it a little then press down the level on the extruder and push the filament through. It's actually been working extremely well.

As for the scraping, for some reason my 8mm induction sensor moves up slightly after awhile until it stops sensing the plate, then my z grinds into aluminum... does this happen to anyone? I've tried tightening the nuts on the probe, it holds for a bit. It just happened again so i decided to mount the sensor even closer to bed and increasing my z offset.

Question regarding heated beds - its taking about 50 minutes to heat up to 100C with an aluminum bed.. i've added a cork board underneath the heater and a book on top, it still takes a loooong time. Is this normal? I've enable PIDTEMBED and tried running a PID autotune at 90 - it times out before i get there. I've preheated to about 85 then ran the autotune and got some values that i put into marlin, doesnt seem to help.

Is there anything else I can do? Could it be a defective board or bad soldering? I was very intentional in making sure the wire was hitting both contacts when soldering. What model HBP ships with the kit? I'm wondering if i should get a new HBP. Would a 24v HBP work with this kit without any major modifications?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/07/2016 08:15PM by thebabymaker.

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thebabymaker
I've had a lot of clogs lately - mostly because the nozzle has been scraping on my aluminum bed and clogging it up with aluminum shavings! I have been using a steel acoustic guitar E string to clear it.. i just stick it on, floss it a little then press down the level on the extruder and push the filament through. It's actually been working extremely well.

As for the scraping, for some reason my 8mm induction sensor moves up slightly after awhile until it stops sensing the plate, then my z grinds into aluminum... does this happen to anyone? I've tried tightening the nuts on the probe, it holds for a bit. It just happened again so i decided to mount the sensor even closer to bed and increasing my z offset.

Question regarding heated beds - its taking about 50 minutes to heat up to 100C with an aluminum bed.. i've added a cork board underneath the heater and a book on top, it still takes a loooong time. Is this normal? I've enable PIDTEMBED and tried running a PID autotune at 90 - it times out before i get there. I've preheated to about 85 then ran the autotune and got some values that i put into marlin, doesnt seem to help.

Is there anything else I can do? Could it be a defective board or bad soldering? I was very intentional in making sure the wire was hitting both contacts when soldering. What model HBP ships with the kit? I'm wondering if i should get a new HBP. Would a 24v HBP work with this kit without any major modifications?

My glass bed heats up really quick, if I hit print my nozzle and bed heat up in about 5-10 minutes maybe? Haven't timed it... And thats with the bed heating up, then holding temp while the extruder heats up, not sure why they don't both heat at once?

Quote
UltiFix

Quote
thebabymaker
I've had a lot of clogs lately - mostly because the nozzle has been scraping on my aluminum bed and clogging it up with aluminum shavings! I have been using a steel acoustic guitar E string to clear it.. i just stick it on, floss it a little then press down the level on the extruder and push the filament through. It's actually been working extremely well.

As for the scraping, for some reason my 8mm induction sensor moves up slightly after awhile until it stops sensing the plate, then my z grinds into aluminum... does this happen to anyone? I've tried tightening the nuts on the probe, it holds for a bit. It just happened again so i decided to mount the sensor even closer to bed and increasing my z offset.

Question regarding heated beds - its taking about 50 minutes to heat up to 100C with an aluminum bed.. i've added a cork board underneath the heater and a book on top, it still takes a loooong time. Is this normal? I've enable PIDTEMBED and tried running a PID autotune at 90 - it times out before i get there. I've preheated to about 85 then ran the autotune and got some values that i put into marlin, doesnt seem to help.

Is there anything else I can do? Could it be a defective board or bad soldering? I was very intentional in making sure the wire was hitting both contacts when soldering. What model HBP ships with the kit? I'm wondering if i should get a new HBP. Would a 24v HBP work with this kit without any major modifications?

My glass bed heats up really quick, if I hit print my nozzle and bed heat up in about 5-10 minutes maybe? Haven't timed it... And thats with the bed heating up, then holding temp while the extruder heats up, not sure why they don't both heat at once?

They heat up separately because it takes your bed way longer to heat up than the extruder does, which would cause oozing/burning filament problems.

---

Need help? Visit the Folgertech Wikia Page

The latest Marlin firmware with Folgertech Prusa i3 settings merged in, get it here

And check out my designs on Thingiverse, and follow me if you like what you see!

..."That's the heater failsafe kicking in, probably because your bed is taking too long to come to temp."

Well, did a little experiment. Started with a room temp printer....had been unplugged for a couple of hours. Homed all three x,y and z. Turned on the bed via repetier manual control with a starting temp of 22C and a target temp of 60C. Took 1 min, 36 seconds to heat. Left the bed heated and turned on the hot end with a starting temp of 22C and a target temp of 200C. It heated for 21 seconds before going to 0 in the display. It was to around 55C or so before it quit. And the heat block is, in fact, getting hot.

Oh, and by the way, the LCD said Err: MINTEMP as soon as I plugged it in.
Suggestions?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/07/2016 08:52PM by JustAGuy.

Quote
JustAGuy
Well, did a little experiment. Started with a room temp printer....had been unplugged for a couple of hours. Homed all three x,y and z. Turned on the bed via repetier manual control with a starting temp of 22C and a target temp of 60C. Took 1 min, 36 seconds to heat. Left the bed heated and turned on the hot end with a starting temp of 22C and a target temp of 200C. It heated for 21 seconds before going to 0 in the display. It was to around 55C or so before it quit. And the heat block is, in fact, getting hot.

Oh, and by the way, the LCD said Err: MINTEMP as soon as I plugged it in.
Suggestions?

The thermistor is shorting someplace. Try and see if you can find where the short is or ask Folger for a new hotend if you haven't had the printer long.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/07/2016 08:54PM by msaeger.

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Newbie with Folgertech 2020 i3.

That was it. Removed the thermistor from the heat block and cut the clear heatshrink off of it. As soon as I did, one of the wires came out of the insulation near the thermistor end. Going to order one from Ebay simply because I don't want to wait on folger to send it whenever they can.

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msaeger

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JustAGuy
Well, did a little experiment. Started with a room temp printer....had been unplugged for a couple of hours. Homed all three x,y and z. Turned on the bed via repetier manual control with a starting temp of 22C and a target temp of 60C. Took 1 min, 36 seconds to heat. Left the bed heated and turned on the hot end with a starting temp of 22C and a target temp of 200C. It heated for 21 seconds before going to 0 in the display. It was to around 55C or so before it quit. And the heat block is, in fact, getting hot.

Oh, and by the way, the LCD said Err: MINTEMP as soon as I plugged it in.
Suggestions?

The thermistor is shorting someplace. Try and see if you can find where the short is or ask Folger for a new hotend if you haven't had the printer long.

Quote
JustAGuy
That was it. Removed the thermistor from the heat block and cut the clear heatshrink off of it. As soon as I did, one of the wires came out of the insulation near the thermistor end. Going to order one from Ebay simply because I don't want to wait on folger to send it whenever they can.

Quote
msaeger

Quote
JustAGuy
Well, did a little experiment. Started with a room temp printer....had been unplugged for a couple of hours. Homed all three x,y and z. Turned on the bed via repetier manual control with a starting temp of 22C and a target temp of 60C. Took 1 min, 36 seconds to heat. Left the bed heated and turned on the hot end with a starting temp of 22C and a target temp of 200C. It heated for 21 seconds before going to 0 in the display. It was to around 55C or so before it quit. And the heat block is, in fact, getting hot.

Oh, and by the way, the LCD said Err: MINTEMP as soon as I plugged it in.
Suggestions?

The thermistor is shorting someplace. Try and see if you can find where the short is or ask Folger for a new hotend if you haven't had the printer long.

Nows your excuse to get an e3d ☺️

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Newbie with Folgertech 2020 i3.

I've been meaning to do the research on that. Can you recommend a good place to get one and some idea of what other parts I'm gonna need?


Nows your excuse to get an e3d ☺️[/quote]

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Mopar99

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UltiFix

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Mopar99
So I have issues this morning, I didn't get a hole lot of time to diagnose it before heading out. I went to print an item and the extruder motor started clicking. So I stop the print and move the extrude to a clear spot to run a few quick test on. It wasn't extruding like normal so tweak the driver board pot a little to see if that help and swapped drive boards. None of that work. Thinking later when I get back home, taking it apart and check it for blockage. Also planning on testing the extrude motor on the x axis. So if none that works, where is a good source to get motors from. Looking at Amazon, simple due to having a prime account, but may go a different way depending suggest.

When my extruder was clicking my extruder had gotten so close to the bed it wouldn't actually extrude anything... Once I lifted it off of the bed it extruded fine.

Mine is doing it 10 mm above the bed... So I'm hope it's just clogged even though I did turn the temp up on the hot end to help move things along. Really wanting to swap out the brass gear and bearing for a different setup... Just don't like the bearing having a grove in it. I keep waiting for the filament to get caught in it.

Well the problem lies with the motor after taking everything apart and testing it. Believe the motor has an internal short causing it to heat up and start misbehaving. So I be replace a motor.

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JustAGuy
I've been meaning to do the research on that. Can you recommend a good place to get one and some idea of what other parts I'm gonna need?


Nows your excuse to get an e3d ☺️

[/quote]

I got the Lite6 from filastruder because I wanted a genuine one and they are an official US seller. [www.filastruder.com] The only thing you need if you are keeping the stock extruder is the mount. Here is the one Animoose made. [www.thingiverse.com] . After you get it all going you will probably want a to print a new fan shroud so you can get rid of the loud 30mm fan that comes with the e3d and go back to the 40mm one.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/07/2016 10:29PM by msaeger.

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Newbie with Folgertech 2020 i3.

I just happen to have one of these motors and am wondering if one of my 3d Printer moters died I could use this one?
[www.newark.com]

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/07/2016 10:48PM by UltiFix.

Well, apparently Dustin is the new Dan - [www.youtube.com]

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Need help? Visit the Folgertech Wikia Page

The latest Marlin firmware with Folgertech Prusa i3 settings merged in, get it here

And check out my designs on Thingiverse, and follow me if you like what you see!

Thanks mate. I appreciate the info. I'll probably get one on order in the next day or two.

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msaeger

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JustAGuy
I've been meaning to do the research on that. Can you recommend a good place to get one and some idea of what other parts I'm gonna need?


Nows your excuse to get an e3d ☺️

I got the Lite6 from filastruder because I wanted a genuine one and they are an official US seller. [www.filastruder.com] The only thing you need if you are keeping the stock extruder is the mount. Here is the one Animoose made. [www.thingiverse.com] . After you get it all going you will probably want a to print a new fan shroud so you can get rid of the loud 30mm fan that comes with the e3d and go back to the 40mm one.[/quote]

what is the design difference between the E3D Lite6 and V6?

Yeah, I saw that too. From his videos, it looks like he's been into this stuff for awhile. I expect he's going to have his hands full.

Just for an update, it's been a couple of weeks since I last posted.

I've gotten my printer built, programmed and printing I want to say thanks to you all
for posting your tricks and tips on this thread, and for therippa's firmware update.
Surprisingly, my first print came out as an identifiable ultimaker robot.

No complaints yet, except for the printed parts that came in the kit