Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread)

Quote
tnm
Just for an update, it's been a couple of weeks since I last posted.

I've gotten my printer built, programmed and printing I want to say thanks to you all
for posting your tricks and tips on this thread, and for therippa's firmware update.
Surprisingly, my first print came out as an identifiable ultimaker robot.

No complaints yet, except for the printed parts that came in the kit

Just curious, how long does it take you to heat up your bed to 100C? It's been taking me almost an hour, which just doesn't seem right.

Anyone upgrade the extruder stepper? I have an email in to Folger about a faulty stepper and I was considering just upgrading to something better. Was considering the following:

[www.amazon.com]

Not sure how I would get everything mounted though. Was wondering if anyone found something a bit more drop in.

Quote
tnm
Just for an update, it's been a couple of weeks since I last posted.

I've gotten my printer built, programmed and printing I want to say thanks to you all
for posting your tricks and tips on this thread, and for therippa's firmware update.
Surprisingly, my first print came out as an identifiable ultimaker robot.

No complaints yet, except for the printed parts that came in the kit

+1

Quote
thebabymaker

Quote
tnm
Just for an update, it's been a couple of weeks since I last posted.

I've gotten my printer built, programmed and printing I want to say thanks to you all
for posting your tricks and tips on this thread, and for therippa's firmware update.
Surprisingly, my first print came out as an identifiable ultimaker robot.

No complaints yet, except for the printed parts that came in the kit

Just curious, how long does it take you to heat up your bed to 100C? It's been taking me almost an hour, which just doesn't seem right.

I let my extruder get to about 200C but I use PLA so I'm not really concerned about the bed. I don't think it gets more than 60C at the most,
and it gets there well before the hot end gets to its point, maybe 8-10 minutes

Quote
tnm

Quote
thebabymaker

Quote
tnm
Just for an update, it's been a couple of weeks since I last posted.

I've gotten my printer built, programmed and printing I want to say thanks to you all
for posting your tricks and tips on this thread, and for therippa's firmware update.
Surprisingly, my first print came out as an identifiable ultimaker robot.

No complaints yet, except for the printed parts that came in the kit

Just curious, how long does it take you to heat up your bed to 100C? It's been taking me almost an hour, which just doesn't seem right.

I let my extruder get to about 200C but I use PLA so I'm not really concerned about the bed. I don't think it gets more than 60C at the most,
and it gets there well before the hot end gets to its point, maybe 8-10 minutes

Thanks - i think most slicers heat up the bed before the extruder, which is why the bed is getting to temp faster than the extruder. My extruder alone gets to temp within a minute or so. It does take maybe 5-10 minutes for my bed to get to 60, but to get to 90 or 100 it takes much much longer.

Does anyone know how big of a role ambient temperature impacts the bed temps? I'm thinking about building an enclosure and wanted to see how much of an improvement i might see. But first, i want to rule out if there is something wrong with my set up - i'm hearing some people have their beds up to ABS temps within 10 minutes... even the PID autotune at 90 time's out at 10 minutes.

Quote
thebabymaker

Quote
tnm

Quote
thebabymaker

Quote
tnm
Just for an update, it's been a couple of weeks since I last posted.

I've gotten my printer built, programmed and printing I want to say thanks to you all
for posting your tricks and tips on this thread, and for therippa's firmware update.
Surprisingly, my first print came out as an identifiable ultimaker robot.

No complaints yet, except for the printed parts that came in the kit

Just curious, how long does it take you to heat up your bed to 100C? It's been taking me almost an hour, which just doesn't seem right.

I let my extruder get to about 200C but I use PLA so I'm not really concerned about the bed. I don't think it gets more than 60C at the most,
and it gets there well before the hot end gets to its point, maybe 8-10 minutes

Thanks - i think most slicers heat up the bed before the extruder, which is why the bed is getting to temp faster than the extruder. My extruder alone gets to temp within a minute or so. It does take maybe 5-10 minutes for my bed to get to 60, but to get to 90 or 100 it takes much much longer.

Does anyone know how big of a role ambient temperature impacts the bed temps? I'm thinking about building an enclosure and wanted to see how much of an improvement i might see. But first, i want to rule out if there is something wrong with my set up - i'm hearing some people have their beds up to ABS temps within 10 minutes... even the PID autotune at 90 time's out at 10 minutes.

Sorry to hear that, and I can't offer much help other than to say that I use Repetier and am able to manually control the fan, extruder and bed.
If it were me, I would independently verify the actual bed temp, and then possible swap thermistors to see if you get the same results.

But since you mentioned it, I also ran into a problem once with the bed temp running out of control. This was when I mistakenly used
Curaengine rather than Slic3r on Linux. I have since moved to Windows and was able to use Slic3er. That did solve the bed temperature
problem.

Not sure if that helps

TPU anyone?

Does anyone have a favorite TPU (or TPU-like flexible filament) that prints well on a stock FT Mk9 hot end? I'd like to print some quadcopter parts (like camera mounts) & want something that's flexible and won't easily break. Ninjaflex seems to be popular, but it's pretty pricy. Is there anything else that works great?

---

Folger Tech 2020 i3 w/Misumi bearings, Borosilicate bed, BuildTak, BLTouch, 12864 LCD, lead screw z-axis, DRV8825, Toranado extruder & E3D V6 driven by Simplify3D and an Octopi.

Ugh I finally finished building the printer after some trouble. I made a few smaller prints, then I tried to do a bigger print and suddenly the filament keeps twisting up inside the feeder.

[imgur.com]

I unscrewed everything to get rid of the twisting. Then I tried it three more times with the same problem after a few minutes of printing.

This time I was not able to remove the filament inside the barrel. The filament broke of at the upper end so I am not able to use any pliers to "pull" it out. I tried pushing it out from both sides while it was hot but it's not moving.
However the PTFE tube fell out. I am not sure if it broke inside the barrel. Can anyone confirm this?
The PTFE tube is 21 mm long and the barrel is 26 mm long.

Do I need to buy a new barrel+tube? Does anyone know where I can get them? (I would prefer Europe so that it doesn't take weeks to get here.) Or are there other options? Acetone maybe?

It's really frustrating at the moment. I only had one successfull print the size of a key ... After that everything failed.

Do you guys like it that the extuder fan is just directly connected to the + and - like in the folgertech instruction? Or do you prefer it hooked up to the ramps board?

Quote
jabu32
what is the design difference between the E3D Lite6 and V6?

V6 has no liner so it can run at a way higher temp. The lite6 gets hot enough for PLA, ABS, PETG, and they say nylon but I haven't tried that.

---

Newbie with Folgertech 2020 i3.

Quote
jasten
Anyone upgrade the extruder stepper? I have an email in to Folger about a faulty stepper and I was considering just upgrading to something better. Was considering the following:

[www.amazon.com]

Not sure how I would get everything mounted though. Was wondering if anyone found something a bit more drop in.

I would just change the extruder to a geared one like a gregs / wades or one driven with a belt like this one [www.thingiverse.com]

---

Newbie with Folgertech 2020 i3.

Quote
UltiFix
Do you guys like it that the extuder fan is just directly connected to the + and - like in the folgertech instruction? Or do you prefer it hooked up to the ramps board?

Now that you mentioned it, my fan is directly connected to the
power supply, and it hasn't kicked on yet. At this point, it's toward
the bottom the bottom of my "to-do" list. Since I posted this morning,
my extruder came off in the middle of a print, and I'm looking into
a possible clogging issue

Quote
tnm

Quote
UltiFix
Do you guys like it that the extuder fan is just directly connected to the + and - like in the folgertech instruction? Or do you prefer it hooked up to the ramps board?

Now that you mentioned it, my fan is directly connected to the
power supply, and it hasn't kicked on yet. At this point, it's toward
the bottom the bottom of my "to-do" list. Since I posted this morning,
my extruder came off in the middle of a print, and I'm looking into
a possible clogging issue

Your fan not running could cause clogging.

---

Newbie with Folgertech 2020 i3.

Quote
msaeger

Quote
tnm

Quote
UltiFix
Do you guys like it that the extuder fan is just directly connected to the + and - like in the folgertech instruction? Or do you prefer it hooked up to the ramps board?

Now that you mentioned it, my fan is directly connected to the
power supply, and it hasn't kicked on yet. At this point, it's toward
the bottom the bottom of my "to-do" list. Since I posted this morning,
my extruder came off in the middle of a print, and I'm looking into
a possible clogging issue

Your fan not running could cause clogging.

Good point. I'll look at that and get the fan running or blow the
box fan on it until I get the fan replaced. Before that I need to
get a guitar "e" string to unclog the extruder nozzle, Does
anyone know if dipping the extruder nozzle in acetone will
eat up the leaky heat sink?

Quote
tnm

Quote
msaeger

Quote
tnm

Quote
UltiFix
Do you guys like it that the extuder fan is just directly connected to the + and - like in the folgertech instruction? Or do you prefer it hooked up to the ramps board?

Now that you mentioned it, my fan is directly connected to the
power supply, and it hasn't kicked on yet. At this point, it's toward
the bottom the bottom of my "to-do" list. Since I posted this morning,
my extruder came off in the middle of a print, and I'm looking into
a possible clogging issue

Your fan not running could cause clogging.

Good point. I'll look at that and get the fan running or blow the
box fan on it until I get the fan replaced. Before that I need to
get a guitar "e" string to unclog the extruder nozzle, Does
anyone know if dipping the extruder nozzle in acetone will
eat up the leaky heat sink?

You can take off the nozzle and put only the nozzle in the acetone. What were you printing when it clogged? I believe ABS will dissolve in acetone but not pla.

---

Newbie with Folgertech 2020 i3.

So i'm trying to calibrate my setup and I'm running into a boat load of problems. For some reason, when I'm in manual mode and I'd like to level the bed, the output in repetier tells me that it's hitting an end stop but it's not touching an end stop nor is the light on the end stop on. I'm using therippa's Marlin code and I believe I have all of the settings right, the settings in the configuration.h file is already setup for the x to be swapped, I have the end stop on the left hand side, opposite of where the power supply is, the end stop plug has been moved to be next to Y (min), and the end stop is set to max yet it's trying to go to the right side of the board.. I have all of the motors having the right cable to the left except the far one on the top right, then the red cable is on the right side. Am I missing something? I assume whenever I hear the high pitch hum, it means it's low on power? I haven't messed with the driver boards yet as I'm scared that I'm going to end up fry it but I think that's where I'm falling short on some of it from working.

Quote
stanger2k
So i'm trying to calibrate my setup and I'm running into a boat load of problems. For some reason, when I'm in manual mode and I'd like to level the bed, the output in repetier tells me that it's hitting an end stop but it's not touching an end stop nor is the light on the end stop on. I'm using therippa's Marlin code and I believe I have all of the settings right, the settings in the configuration.h file is already setup for the x to be swapped, I have the end stop on the left hand side, opposite of where the power supply is, the end stop plug has been moved to be next to Y (min), and the end stop is set to max yet it's trying to go to the right side of the board.. I have all of the motors having the right cable to the left except the far one on the top right, then the red cable is on the right side. Am I missing something? I assume whenever I hear the high pitch hum, it means it's low on power? I haven't messed with the driver boards yet as I'm scared that I'm going to end up fry it but I think that's where I'm falling short on some of it from working.

Try homing the x axis then try moving the manual controls
Click the x button to home it
[prntscr.com]

Quote
thebabymaker

Quote
tnm

Quote
thebabymaker

Quote
tnm
Just for an update, it's been a couple of weeks since I last posted.

I've gotten my printer built, programmed and printing I want to say thanks to you all
for posting your tricks and tips on this thread, and for therippa's firmware update.
Surprisingly, my first print came out as an identifiable ultimaker robot.

No complaints yet, except for the printed parts that came in the kit

Just curious, how long does it take you to heat up your bed to 100C? It's been taking me almost an hour, which just doesn't seem right.

I let my extruder get to about 200C but I use PLA so I'm not really concerned about the bed. I don't think it gets more than 60C at the most,
and it gets there well before the hot end gets to its point, maybe 8-10 minutes

Thanks - i think most slicers heat up the bed before the extruder, which is why the bed is getting to temp faster than the extruder. My extruder alone gets to temp within a minute or so. It does take maybe 5-10 minutes for my bed to get to 60, but to get to 90 or 100 it takes much much longer.

Does anyone know how big of a role ambient temperature impacts the bed temps? I'm thinking about building an enclosure and wanted to see how much of an improvement i might see. But first, i want to rule out if there is something wrong with my set up - i'm hearing some people have their beds up to ABS temps within 10 minutes... even the PID autotune at 90 time's out at 10 minutes.

An hour is too long. It takes me 10-15 min to heat to 100C. The ambient temperature in my garage is >17C. I have the "Anodized Aluminum Heated Bed Buld Plate for 3D Printer RepRap Prusa i3 Short Kit" from Leap 3D on eBay, which bolts directly to the top of the MK2B heat bed. I lay a single piece of paper on top while it is warming, otherwise it definitely does take longer. Check the resistance on your heated bed. Should be 1.0 - 1.2 Ohms, lower is better. Also, make sure the copper traces on your bed are on the top side, not the bottom. Finally, don't use PID, it will be slower, and you really don't need the additional accuracy of a PID loop.

Quote
UltiFix

Quote
stanger2k
So i'm trying to calibrate my setup and I'm running into a boat load of problems. For some reason, when I'm in manual mode and I'd like to level the bed, the output in repetier tells me that it's hitting an end stop but it's not touching an end stop nor is the light on the end stop on. I'm using therippa's Marlin code and I believe I have all of the settings right, the settings in the configuration.h file is already setup for the x to be swapped, I have the end stop on the left hand side, opposite of where the power supply is, the end stop plug has been moved to be next to Y (min), and the end stop is set to max yet it's trying to go to the right side of the board.. I have all of the motors having the right cable to the left except the far one on the top right, then the red cable is on the right side. Am I missing something? I assume whenever I hear the high pitch hum, it means it's low on power? I haven't messed with the driver boards yet as I'm scared that I'm going to end up fry it but I think that's where I'm falling short on some of it from working.

Try homing the x axis then try moving the manual controls
Click the x button to home it
[prntscr.com]

Most of the time, I've found that hitting any of the individual home keys ("X", "Y". "z") won't do anything. But when
I hit the Home Key (the one with no letters in the house icon) all three motors home to what you have in
set in the config.h file (for mine it's X: -1, Y: -1, Z: -1 ) and the extruder moves on all three axes.
With that said, I have my X end stop on the right middle side, the Y endstop in the back, and
the Z endstop on the lower right side. When I hit the home button, the X stepper motro moves right,
my bed moves back, and my Z moves down. To the end effect, the extruder ends up in the right front
corner. I gues it really depends on where you wat your starting position to be

Well, I pulled the trigger and went ahead and ordered everything for SonnyTech's V-Slot Y and X axis upgrade. I was planning on doing the X alone, to resolve what I think is my hot-end sag when it is in the middle of the X Axis, but the Y has been so noisy as of late, I'm gonna do it all.

Unfortunately, I live in California, and it'll take until the first part of next week to get the parts. Oh well. I've got the lead screws here already, so I'll be ready for the whole thing.once they arrive (thinking about going with a Bowden and V6lite, but I gotta hold off for the tax return to come in...)

I'll be sure to post results once all is complete. (my kids are going to hate the down time, but will appreciate the quieter operation, as the printer sits close to their rooms).

I just want to give a shout out to all the heavy posters here. (you know who you are) You have all made me successful in this project, and I have learned a lot. Thank you!

--Andrew

Quote
thebabymaker

Just curious, how long does it take you to heat up your bed to 100C? It's been taking me almost an hour, which just doesn't seem right.

It shouldn't take that long. Mine was taking about 12-15 minutes to get to 105 when I was using ABS (from around 16-20c when cold).
Some cardboard on top of the glass will help a little bit, but there is some other problem if it's taking an hour. Have you double checked that you've soldered the ground (Black) wire to BOTH pads 2 & 3 on the heated bed as per the instructions? That's the only thing I can think of sorry!

Edit: Also, as elkayem said, mount the bed so that the traces are on the top (touching the glass).

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/09/2016 06:16AM by Boffster.

Quote
stanger2k
So i'm trying to calibrate my setup and I'm running into a boat load of problems. For some reason, when I'm in manual mode and I'd like to level the bed, the output in repetier tells me that it's hitting an end stop but it's not touching an end stop nor is the light on the end stop on. I'm using therippa's Marlin code and I believe I have all of the settings right, the settings in the configuration.h file is already setup for the x to be swapped, I have the end stop on the left hand side, opposite of where the power supply is, the end stop plug has been moved to be next to Y (min), and the end stop is set to max yet it's trying to go to the right side of the board.. I have all of the motors having the right cable to the left except the far one on the top right, then the red cable is on the right side. Am I missing something? I assume whenever I hear the high pitch hum, it means it's low on power? I haven't messed with the driver boards yet as I'm scared that I'm going to end up fry it but I think that's where I'm falling short on some of it from working.

If you moved the X endstop to the left, then make X MIN in Repetier. AND move your endstop plug back to where it was, all the way to the right. That's your problem. Also in config.h, you need to make

#define X_HOME_DIR -1
#define Y_HOME_DIR -1
#define Z_HOME_DIR -1

---

Folger Tech 2020 i3 and FT-5 as well as modified JGAurora A5 with direct drive E3D/Titan. All running the BLTOUCH.
Great kits. Having fun and running the heck out of them.
Running Marlin 1.1.0 RC8 on the i3 and FT5. Custom firmware on A5.
Folger Tech Wiki board >[folgertech.wikia.com]

Quote
tjnamtiw

Quote
stanger2k
So i'm trying to calibrate my setup and I'm running into a boat load of problems. For some reason, when I'm in manual mode and I'd like to level the bed, the output in repetier tells me that it's hitting an end stop but it's not touching an end stop nor is the light on the end stop on. I'm using therippa's Marlin code and I believe I have all of the settings right, the settings in the configuration.h file is already setup for the x to be swapped, I have the end stop on the left hand side, opposite of where the power supply is, the end stop plug has been moved to be next to Y (min), and the end stop is set to max yet it's trying to go to the right side of the board.. I have all of the motors having the right cable to the left except the far one on the top right, then the red cable is on the right side. Am I missing something? I assume whenever I hear the high pitch hum, it means it's low on power? I haven't messed with the driver boards yet as I'm scared that I'm going to end up fry it but I think that's where I'm falling short on some of it from working.

If you moved the X endstop to the left, then make X MIN in Repetier. AND move your endstop plug back to where it was, all the way to the right. That's your problem. Also in config.h, you need to make

#define X_HOME_DIR -1
#define Y_HOME_DIR -1
#define Z_HOME_DIR -1

Also, enable the pullup resistors for the offending endstops. This can be done in the config file. One of these days, I'm going to add this bit of advice to the wiki, because it seems to come up every few pages on this thread...

Hi all,

If this is the wrong place to do this, I apologize in advance. I'm thinking to sell my printer and wanted to keep it in this group if possible. I have gotten a lot of support from the group and would hope to continue on learning with you all. It's a great printer but I needed a large build volume and had to upgrade to something larger. I'm in So CA and would also prefer not to have to ship it. I also have a few new rolls of PLA and ABS that I'd throw in. PM me for details.

Thanks,

Dave

Why does Folger Tech suggest to set in Slic3r Print Setting -> Adanced -> First layer -> 150%?
This only gives an extrusion width of 0.3mm when using a layer height of 0.2mm. Everyone online suggests the first layer should be very thick.
My prints now stick much better after setting first layer extrusion width to 0.6mm and first layer height of 0.25mm.
Any who buys a Folger Tech should be aware of this.

I've been running my BLTOUCH off of an external wall wart; however, I bought a 12V/5V regulator at Radio Shack and was going to install it on the back of the plexiglas where the Arduino is mounted. I think I remember reading that someone was using one of these 7805's and, for some reason, switched back to the external supply.

Whoever that was > why did you switch back? Like to know before installing mine.

---

Folger Tech 2020 i3 and FT-5 as well as modified JGAurora A5 with direct drive E3D/Titan. All running the BLTOUCH.
Great kits. Having fun and running the heck out of them.
Running Marlin 1.1.0 RC8 on the i3 and FT5. Custom firmware on A5.
Folger Tech Wiki board >[folgertech.wikia.com]

What do you guys with proximity detection z-probes get when you do an M48? That's the Marlin Z-probe repeatability test. I'd be real in interested in seeing results for capacitive and inductive probe types. Anyone have one of the 8mm distance inductive probes? How much less accurate are they?

I use this:

M48 P5 V4

With the V4 option, you can see the change results for each of the probings. If you add an E at the end, it will retract the probe between readings, if you are using a servo, or BLTouch type probe. I doubt the E would make any difference if you have a proximity sensor.

Once it is done, it will give the mean and standard deviation.

By default it probes wherever the x and y currently are, but you can also add X and Y positions, like this:

M48 X100 Y100 P5 V4

I seem to get about a 20 micron variance on my BLTouch, although sometimes it is less, and occasionally it will randomly be more. It is always way better than my old servo probe, though.

You can find more info on M48 on the Marlin M48 page

---

Folger Tech 2020 i3 Wiki

Custom google search for the Folger Tech 2020 i3 forum topic by Animoose

My Thingiverse Designs

Quote
tjnamtiw
I've been running my BLTOUCH off of an external wall wart; however, I bought a 12V/5V regulator at Radio Shack and was going to install it on the back of the plexiglas where the Arduino is mounted. I think I remember reading that someone was using one of these 7805's and, for some reason, switched back to the external supply.

Whoever that was > why did you switch back? Like to know before installing mine.

That was me but I didn't switch back. I'm still using the 7805 regulator connected directly to the power supply and feeding +5v to one of the unused servo +5 pins. I removed the jumper at the ramps board. I noticed that without the extra 7805 regulator I would see some flickering of the LCD screen whenever the BLtouch pin cycled. Maybe I just have a wimpy 5 volt regulator on the Arduino but I had a 7805 in stock so it was a cheap fix. I did go back and forth a few times but I've decided to leave the regulator in place.

Quote
DaveA

Quote
tjnamtiw
I've been running my BLTOUCH off of an external wall wart; however, I bought a 12V/5V regulator at Radio Shack and was going to install it on the back of the plexiglas where the Arduino is mounted. I think I remember reading that someone was using one of these 7805's and, for some reason, switched back to the external supply.

Whoever that was > why did you switch back? Like to know before installing mine.

That was me but I didn't switch back. I'm still using the 7805 regulator connected directly to the power supply and feeding +5v to one of the unused servo +5 pins. I removed the jumper at the ramps board. I noticed that without the extra 7805 regulator I would see some flickering of the LCD screen whenever the BLtouch pin cycled. Maybe I just have a wimpy 5 volt regulator on the Arduino but I had a 7805 in stock so it was a cheap fix. I did go back and forth a few times but I've decided to leave the regulator in place.

Thanks, Dave! I knew someone mentioned that they had stopped using it. That gives me something to do tomorrow! I'll have to dig through my electronics stash for a couple of caps.

---

Folger Tech 2020 i3 and FT-5 as well as modified JGAurora A5 with direct drive E3D/Titan. All running the BLTOUCH.
Great kits. Having fun and running the heck out of them.
Running Marlin 1.1.0 RC8 on the i3 and FT5. Custom firmware on A5.
Folger Tech Wiki board >[folgertech.wikia.com]

What is the printers actual height? I homed the z axis then set it to go to 150mm up and it was going to run into the piece of metal that attaches the threaded rod to the motor so I did an emergency stop. In my printer settings the height is set at 185mm.
Ideas?

Thanks!
-Sam

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/09/2016 08:05PM by UltiFix.