Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread)
Posted by Dan_FolgerTech
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Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) February 10, 2016 10:17AM |
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Bert3D
What do you guys with proximity detection z-probes get when you do an M48? That's the Marlin Z-probe repeatability test. I'd be real in interested in seeing results for capacitive and inductive probe types. Anyone have one of the 8mm distance inductive probes? How much less accurate are they?
I use this:
M48 P5 V4
I've been meaning to try that...I'm running a 8mm sense distance inductive probe with a sheet of 28ga galvanized steel between my heater and glass.
Pretty happy with the results:
08:05:52.455 : 1 of 5 z: 3.840000 mean: 3.840000 sigma: 0.000000 08:05:57.182 : 2 of 5 z: 3.837500 mean: 3.838750 sigma: 0.001250 08:06:01.909 : 3 of 5 z: 3.837500 mean: 3.838333 sigma: 0.001178 08:06:06.637 : 4 of 5 z: 3.837500 mean: 3.838125 sigma: 0.001082 08:06:11.363 : 5 of 5 z: 3.837500 mean: 3.838000 sigma: 0.001000 08:06:13.133 : Mean: 3.838000 08:06:13.137 : Standard Deviation: 0.001000
Interesting that 4 out of 5 probes were identical. Wonder why the first one was .001250 off from the others.
Ran it again in the center of my bed and got similar but not quite as good results:
08:10:34.284 : 1 of 5 z: 3.200000 mean: 3.200000 sigma: 0.000000 08:10:39.006 : 2 of 5 z: 3.197500 mean: 3.198750 sigma: 0.001250 08:10:43.733 : 3 of 5 z: 3.197500 mean: 3.198333 sigma: 0.001179 08:10:48.461 : 4 of 5 z: 3.197500 mean: 3.198125 sigma: 0.001083 08:10:53.184 : 5 of 5 z: 3.200000 mean: 3.198500 sigma: 0.001225 08:10:54.958 : Mean: 3.198500 08:10:54.958 : Standard Deviation: 0.001225
Two readings different from the other 3 this time...but both equal to each other and only 0.001250 off from the 3 consistent ones.
Third test was really impressive:
08:13:32.695 : 1 of 5 z: 3.195000 mean: 3.195000 sigma: 0.000000 08:13:37.418 : 2 of 5 z: 3.195000 mean: 3.195000 sigma: 0.000000 08:13:42.141 : 3 of 5 z: 3.195000 mean: 3.195000 sigma: 0.000000 08:13:46.864 : 4 of 5 z: 3.195000 mean: 3.195000 sigma: 0.000000 08:13:51.587 : 5 of 5 z: 3.195000 mean: 3.195000 sigma: 0.000000 08:13:53.356 : Mean: 3.195000 08:13:53.361 : Standard Deviation: 0.000000
So I'd say there's no accuracy issues with the 8mm distance probe
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/10/2016 10:18AM by jhitesma.
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Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) February 10, 2016 01:38PM |
My Pikachu I printed turned out alright, but some of it isn't so great... Printing at 210C PLA and 75C bed & 10% infill, no cooling fan on plastic coming out, only the stock folgertech fan. Would lowering my PLA temp and getting a cooling fan help?
Shell Thickness ETC
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/10/2016 01:40PM by UltiFix.
Shell Thickness ETC
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/10/2016 01:40PM by UltiFix.
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Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) February 10, 2016 01:45PM |
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UltiFix
My Pikachu I printed turned out alright, but some of it isn't so great... Printing at 210C PLA and 75C bed & 10% infill, no cooling fan on plastic coming out, only the stock folgertech fan. Would lowering my PLA temp and getting a cooling fan help?
Shell Thickness ETC
Get your temperature down around 185C at 40 mm/sec and you should be happy.
Folger Tech 2020 i3 and FT-5 as well as modified JGAurora A5 with direct drive E3D/Titan. All running the BLTOUCH.
Great kits. Having fun and running the heck out of them.
Running Marlin 1.1.0 RC8 on the i3 and FT5. Custom firmware on A5.
Folger Tech Wiki board >[folgertech.wikia.com]
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Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) February 10, 2016 01:46PM |
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UltiFix
My Pikachu I printed turned out alright, but some of it isn't so great... Printing at 210C PLA and 75C bed & 10% infill, no cooling fan on plastic coming out, only the stock folgertech fan. Would lowering my PLA temp and getting a cooling fan help?
Shell Thickness ETC
That seems awful hot for PLA. I print my PLA at 185 on a 60 degree bed.
At 210 it will take the PLA longer to cool, which will allow it to sag more. A cooling fan on the print would help too.
Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 02/10/2016 01:50PM by Bert3D.
Folger Tech 2020 i3 Wiki
Custom google search for the Folger Tech 2020 i3 forum topic by Animoose
My Thingiverse Designs
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Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) February 11, 2016 10:23AM |
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GrouchoDuke
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widespreaddeadhead
Get a print fan on that. It'll make all the difference for PLA.
I've been meaning to add a fan for similar issues. What's the best print fan for the stock FT setup?
Adding a print fan made a huge difference in my bridging/overhangs and PLA. Still not quite there with ABS (where the fan doesn't help) and still having horrible issues with PETG but getting better.
I'm not a fan of the shrouds that just scavenge air from the extruder fan. The thermal design of our extruder is pretty lousy to begin with and while the fan doesn't do much...it does make a difference as I learned printing without it the first few days of owning my printer since it shipped with a broken fan. Take away too much air from the extruder and you're looking as some serious jams at the drive gear/idler.
Plus I print in ABS which doesn't use a fan, PETG which doesn't use it as much, and even on PLA I like to keep my fan off the first few layers for better adhesion. So the passive shrouds don't really cut it for me since I can't easily turn them off.
I'm currently using this fan: [www.thingiverse.com]
It was the most flexible one I found that could be re-positioned easily. The funnel could be better, I've been toying with a different design in my head but haven't drawn it up yet. But it's better than nothing and has made a definite improvement in my PLA printing. I was also able to easily modify the mount so it doubles as my inductive sensor mount which was nice. Printing the funnel in PLA without a fan was tricky and I didn't get very good results. Without a fan I had better results on overhangs/bridges with ABS than PLA so I ended up printing it in ABS instead, now that the fan is installed PLA prints much better than ABS
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Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) February 11, 2016 03:52PM |
I hope one of you gurus out there can offer a little help. I put on a roll of ABS for the first time last night. I am having horrible quality on my 100% fill layers. Perimeters look fantastic.
In the video, you can see how the infill is being laid down in an uneven manner. This is ABS with 100 on the bed, and 240 on the nozzle (for the first layer). Printed on glass, with glue stick. I used this as a temp calibration piece where I lowered the temp every 10mm or so. Adhesion was great. I did have first layer set to 150% of normal layer width.
[youtu.be]
In this pic:
You are looking at the bottom of a different print. I had changed first layer extrusion width to 90% to see if that was the problem; getting too much material down. This was printed at 240 first layer, 225 additional layers, with 100 on the bed. .32 layer height stock .4 nozzle. Speed of 50mm/s Sliced with Slic3r. The whole piece stayed stuck on the bed, I had no issues with corner lift (piece is approx 50x110x50)
I've tried some different temps, with little change. What looks like big gaps there, are in fact, where the filament has bubbled up. Perhaps that is adhesion problems, but on the top side off all that, even where there is good first layer adhesion, the top surface is like the surface of the moon, it's so bad, that it caused skipping on the X axis during a move, dragging the nozzle across. You can hear it bumping along. In this second pic, you can see the top surface of the print, and it looks better than the first layer does, it's still terrible. Any ideas?
I had some similar issues with Hatchbox black PLA. The yellow PLA I got from FT hasn't given me any of these issues.
--Andrew
In the video, you can see how the infill is being laid down in an uneven manner. This is ABS with 100 on the bed, and 240 on the nozzle (for the first layer). Printed on glass, with glue stick. I used this as a temp calibration piece where I lowered the temp every 10mm or so. Adhesion was great. I did have first layer set to 150% of normal layer width.
[youtu.be]
In this pic:
You are looking at the bottom of a different print. I had changed first layer extrusion width to 90% to see if that was the problem; getting too much material down. This was printed at 240 first layer, 225 additional layers, with 100 on the bed. .32 layer height stock .4 nozzle. Speed of 50mm/s Sliced with Slic3r. The whole piece stayed stuck on the bed, I had no issues with corner lift (piece is approx 50x110x50)
I've tried some different temps, with little change. What looks like big gaps there, are in fact, where the filament has bubbled up. Perhaps that is adhesion problems, but on the top side off all that, even where there is good first layer adhesion, the top surface is like the surface of the moon, it's so bad, that it caused skipping on the X axis during a move, dragging the nozzle across. You can hear it bumping along. In this second pic, you can see the top surface of the print, and it looks better than the first layer does, it's still terrible. Any ideas?
I had some similar issues with Hatchbox black PLA. The yellow PLA I got from FT hasn't given me any of these issues.
--Andrew
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