Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread)

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msaeger

Quote
bstern
All this talk of extruders seems to be reinforcing something I'm discovering with my kit, but I wanted to ask and make sure I'm not overlooking something.

I read through the whole thread, but it's sort of blurred together, and even with the custom search, I'm not sure I'm finding what I'm looking for.

My extruder is skipping/clicking. It looks like the brass wheel is being pressed too hard against the pulley and can't run. I replaced the spring with a weaker spring I had lying around, and now it's feeding (backwards, but that's the typical motor polarity problem). Is this the right fix (replacing the spring) or is there something else I should try?

Thanks!

Has it ever worked? If not maybe you need to increase the stepper current. If it worked a while maybe there is a clog someplace.

Have you tried extruding with the nozzle above the bed.

No, this is initial extruder calibration. I did try increasing current, but it didn't seem to help. If you're saying I didn't increase it enough, I can try continuing to increase it while using the old (tighter) spring.

Quote
bstern

Quote
msaeger

Quote
bstern
All this talk of extruders seems to be reinforcing something I'm discovering with my kit, but I wanted to ask and make sure I'm not overlooking something.

I read through the whole thread, but it's sort of blurred together, and even with the custom search, I'm not sure I'm finding what I'm looking for.

My extruder is skipping/clicking. It looks like the brass wheel is being pressed too hard against the pulley and can't run. I replaced the spring with a weaker spring I had lying around, and now it's feeding (backwards, but that's the typical motor polarity problem). Is this the right fix (replacing the spring) or is there something else I should try?

Thanks!

Has it ever worked? If not maybe you need to increase the stepper current. If it worked a while maybe there is a clog someplace.

Have you tried extruding with the nozzle above the bed.

No, this is initial extruder calibration. I did try increasing current, but it didn't seem to help. If you're saying I didn't increase it enough, I can try continuing to increase it while using the old (tighter) spring.

When you are trying it do you have the nozzle raised above the bed or are you doing a print?

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Newbie with Folgertech 2020 i3.

Quote
bstern

Quote
msaeger

Quote
bstern
All this talk of extruders seems to be reinforcing something I'm discovering with my kit, but I wanted to ask and make sure I'm not overlooking something.

I read through the whole thread, but it's sort of blurred together, and even with the custom search, I'm not sure I'm finding what I'm looking for.

My extruder is skipping/clicking. It looks like the brass wheel is being pressed too hard against the pulley and can't run. I replaced the spring with a weaker spring I had lying around, and now it's feeding (backwards, but that's the typical motor polarity problem). Is this the right fix (replacing the spring) or is there something else I should try?

Thanks!

Has it ever worked? If not maybe you need to increase the stepper current. If it worked a while maybe there is a clog someplace.

Have you tried extruding with the nozzle above the bed.

No, this is initial extruder calibration. I did try increasing current, but it didn't seem to help. If you're saying I didn't increase it enough, I can try continuing to increase it while using the old (tighter) spring.

Do you have the nozzle hot enough for the filament you are using? Is the nozzle near the bed, or higher up? The clicking is the sound of it skipping steps because it can't push the filament through. The weaker spring isn't the right answer, it is just hiding the problem, by letting the filament grind against the gear rather than make the stepper skip.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/23/2016 09:36PM by Bert3D.

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My Thingiverse Designs

Quote
bstern
All this talk of extruders seems to be reinforcing something I'm discovering with my kit, but I wanted to ask and make sure I'm not overlooking something.

I read through the whole thread, but it's sort of blurred together, and even with the custom search, I'm not sure I'm finding what I'm looking for.

My extruder is skipping/clicking. It looks like the brass wheel is being pressed too hard against the pulley and can't run. I replaced the spring with a weaker spring I had lying around, and now it's feeding (backwards, but that's the typical motor polarity problem). Is this the right fix (replacing the spring) or is there something else I should try?

Thanks!

When I first got my printer, I had a similar problem. I found that my 'gear' on the motor shaft had its smooth end inside the bell housing of the motor and it was rubbing on the motor! I took it off and luckily I have a small metal lathe and was able to trim a few thousandths off of it. No more problems.

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Folger Tech 2020 i3 and FT-5 as well as modified JGAurora A5 with direct drive E3D/Titan. All running the BLTOUCH.
Great kits. Having fun and running the heck out of them.
Running Marlin 1.1.0 RC8 on the i3 and FT5. Custom firmware on A5.
Folger Tech Wiki board >[folgertech.wikia.com]

Does over extruding make pieces look "buggery" with extra crap on a corner?

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Guys thanks for the help I loosened the nuts holding the wheels and just tightened them finger tight and it prints amazing now.

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Bert3D

Quote
bstern

Quote
msaeger

Quote
bstern
All this talk of extruders seems to be reinforcing something I'm discovering with my kit, but I wanted to ask and make sure I'm not overlooking something.

I read through the whole thread, but it's sort of blurred together, and even with the custom search, I'm not sure I'm finding what I'm looking for.

My extruder is skipping/clicking. It looks like the brass wheel is being pressed too hard against the pulley and can't run. I replaced the spring with a weaker spring I had lying around, and now it's feeding (backwards, but that's the typical motor polarity problem). Is this the right fix (replacing the spring) or is there something else I should try?

Thanks!

Has it ever worked? If not maybe you need to increase the stepper current. If it worked a while maybe there is a clog someplace.

Have you tried extruding with the nozzle above the bed.

No, this is initial extruder calibration. I did try increasing current, but it didn't seem to help. If you're saying I didn't increase it enough, I can try continuing to increase it while using the old (tighter) spring.

Do you have the nozzle hot enough for the filament you are using? Is the nozzle near the bed, or higher up? The clicking is the sound of it skipping steps because it can't push the filament through. The weaker spring isn't the right answer, it is just hiding the problem, by letting the filament grind against the gear rather than make the stepper skip.

I'm doing initial calibration, so the hot end is disabled. This is way above the bed, so that I can measure how much it's extruding. ETA: the nozzle is removed, too, so it's not blocking anything.

I put the stronger spring back.

I'll check into whether or not anything is rubbing, as tjnamtiw suggested. What made you think to take your motor apart?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/24/2016 12:36AM by bstern.

Quote
bstern

I'm doing initial calibration, so the hot end is disabled. This is way above the bed, so that I can measure how much it's extruding. ETA: the nozzle is removed, too, so it's not blocking anything.

I put the stronger spring back.

I'll check into whether or not anything is rubbing, as tjnamtiw suggested. What made you think to take your motor apart?

I was out of options! I've seen some pictures of the extruder drives like ours and the gear is situated with the smooth end with the set screws facing outward but mine's the opposite. Come to think of it, I took it apart to make sure it was a straight shot from the gear drive into the threaded tube down to the hot end for the filament. That's when I noticed the rubbing. My motor would click occasionally.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/24/2016 09:38AM by tjnamtiw.

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Folger Tech 2020 i3 and FT-5 as well as modified JGAurora A5 with direct drive E3D/Titan. All running the BLTOUCH.
Great kits. Having fun and running the heck out of them.
Running Marlin 1.1.0 RC8 on the i3 and FT5. Custom firmware on A5.
Folger Tech Wiki board >[folgertech.wikia.com]

Delete

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/24/2016 11:04AM by UltiFix.

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Quote
bstern

Quote
Bert3D

Quote
bstern

Quote
msaeger

Quote
bstern
All this talk of extruders seems to be reinforcing something I'm discovering with my kit, but I wanted to ask and make sure I'm not overlooking something.

I read through the whole thread, but it's sort of blurred together, and even with the custom search, I'm not sure I'm finding what I'm looking for.

My extruder is skipping/clicking. It looks like the brass wheel is being pressed too hard against the pulley and can't run. I replaced the spring with a weaker spring I had lying around, and now it's feeding (backwards, but that's the typical motor polarity problem). Is this the right fix (replacing the spring) or is there something else I should try?

Thanks!

Has it ever worked? If not maybe you need to increase the stepper current. If it worked a while maybe there is a clog someplace.

Have you tried extruding with the nozzle above the bed.

No, this is initial extruder calibration. I did try increasing current, but it didn't seem to help. If you're saying I didn't increase it enough, I can try continuing to increase it while using the old (tighter) spring.

Do you have the nozzle hot enough for the filament you are using? Is the nozzle near the bed, or higher up? The clicking is the sound of it skipping steps because it can't push the filament through. The weaker spring isn't the right answer, it is just hiding the problem, by letting the filament grind against the gear rather than make the stepper skip.

I'm doing initial calibration, so the hot end is disabled. This is way above the bed, so that I can measure how much it's extruding. ETA: the nozzle is removed, too, so it's not blocking anything.

I put the stronger spring back.

Before taking the motor apart, if you noticed the gear was turning backwards when you changed springs, I would flip the plug (reverse it at the board) and see if that lets you extrude. They tend to click if running backwards as you grind plastic as you try to get it to go through the extruder. Just a thought.


I'll check into whether or not anything is rubbing, as tjnamtiw suggested. What made you think to take your motor apart?

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widespreaddeadhead

Quote
UltiFix
How long do your guyses print bed take to get to 100c? With 1/8 inch thick glass?

<10 min
Insulate the bottom of the heat bed, and also place a piece of cardboard on top of the glass when it's warming. It'll make all the difference.

I don't have any insulation, and the ambient temp in my house right now is around 20-21C. I have 3mm glass. It takes a little less than 10 min. to reach 100C.

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iamquestar
I don't have any insulation, and the ambient temp in my house right now is around 20-21C. I have 3mm glass. It takes a little less than 10 min. to reach 100C.

Hey, as long as we get the results we want!

So I had an interesting failure last night.

Had an event at my daughters school tonight so didn't get to print until around 7:30. Got home and immediately went to start a print of one of the MPCNC parts I'm working on. But noticed the filament looked "Wrong". Sure enough this eSun PLA had snapped again right at the top of my extruder I even stayed up an extra 30 minutes last night to let it fully cool before shutting things down after printing yesterday...but for some reason this eSun PLA seems to get brittle right above the extruder after printing. Fan is going and it never feels even warm there...but while the filament feels soft and pliable coming off the roll every time I've gone to print with it it's snapped right at the top of the extruder.

(Side note: I never ordered eSun PLA. I ordered Hatchbox from Amazon but was sent eSun with a small barcode sticker saying "Hatchbox" I've had great luck with the two previous rolls of Hatchbox but hadn't tried eSun before. Not sure if this is a bad roll of eSun or if it's always like this but I've had more issues with this roll than with any other filament I've tried so far. It oozes like crazy even at low temps, it strings like crazy even at low temps, it clogged my nozzle, it gets brittle after printing and breaks at the top of my extruder, and it smells almost as bad as ABS. I've heard others say all kinds of good things about eSun so I'm guessing I may have just got a bad roll. I'd say watch out for seller "TOPG" on amazon...except when I ordered it said it was sold by "firesale merchant" and still shows that on the product page with the "You ordered this" message - but when I go into my orders and look at the transaction it says it was sold by "TOPG" so no clue what Amazon is pulling right now. My other two orders of Hatchbox both said "Firesale" and show as "firesale" in my orders.)

Oh well, fired up repetier host and connected to the server - gave a manual command to heat the extruder...then ran it backwards to spit out the broken bit. Seemed fine. Re-loaded the filament, air extruded some to make sure nothing was clogged and all seemed well. Opened rep-server in my browser and hit go on the part I wanted to print. Bed started heating and all seemed well so went to put my daughter to bed.

Came back in a few minutes later...and the printer was just sitting there with the LCD showing all solid white boxes and the C.H.I.P I run rep-server on had apparently powered itself down (which it does if I try to power the printer over it for more than a minute with the printers power supply off.

Hmmm.....

Reset everything, and now CHIP gives a USB error. Tried plugging the printer into my desktop...and windows says there's a problem with the device. Rebooted everything again.

Things are getting odder. The LCD is back and recognizes the SD card...but when I go to select a file to print it say "no card", go back to the main screen and it says "SD Inserted" but go to select a file and still "no card". Tried plugging in the USB again and connecting straight from rep-host...and as soon as it connects rep-host crashes. Hmmmm.....

Turn on the printer with no USB and no lights on the RAMPS and the LCD is dead. Seems like the Arduino is only getting power over USB suddenly.

Of course I just happened to loan my good volt meter to a co-worker for the night. My backup meter is only 1v resolution...kind of a pain to use.

Well, it's up and going but only if I plug the USB into my desktop (the C.H.I.P can't provide enough power over it's port) and print from SD since actually connecting to the USB crashes everything.

So I'm thinking my arduino fried it's 5v regulator. Can't really confirm without my volt meter...but that's my educated guess right now.

Follow-up - I pulled an Arduino Mega off another project, flashed it and swapped it in. All is back to normal. So it sure seems like like the 5v rail got messed up on the original arduino. Co-worker just gave me back my meter so tonight I'll do some further postmortem on the original arduino.


I will say I'm really happy with rep-server on the C.H.I.P for the most part. Liking it a lot better than OctoPrint even though I liked the openness and hackability of OP better. RS just seems more fully featured and better behaved. I do miss the way OP visualizes retractions though.

And while the C.H.I.P. works it's not ideal. It's just powered off a USB cable and a 700ma phone charger, and isn't really designed to power things off it's USB. So it needs a powered hub to work well. If I shut down the printer power supply before shutting down the CHIP then after a few minutes the CHIP will crash because of the power demands of the Arduino/Ramps/LCD setup. So I have to shut down the CHIP first then turn off the printer which means I can't do automated shutdown But for $9 I'm not even close to complaining!

Quote
jhitesma
So I had an interesting failure last night.

Had an event at my daughters school tonight so didn't get to print until around 7:30. Got home and immediately went to start a print of one of the MPCNC parts I'm working on. But noticed the filament looked "Wrong". Sure enough this eSun PLA had snapped again right at the top of my extruder I even stayed up an extra 30 minutes last night to let it fully cool before shutting things down after printing yesterday...but for some reason this eSun PLA seems to get brittle right above the extruder after printing. Fan is going and it never feels even warm there...but while the filament feels soft and pliable coming off the roll every time I've gone to print with it it's snapped right at the top of the extruder.

(Side note: I never ordered eSun PLA. I ordered Hatchbox from Amazon but was sent eSun with a small barcode sticker saying "Hatchbox" I've had great luck with the two previous rolls of Hatchbox but hadn't tried eSun before. Not sure if this is a bad roll of eSun or if it's always like this but I've had more issues with this roll than with any other filament I've tried so far. It oozes like crazy even at low temps, it strings like crazy even at low temps, it clogged my nozzle, it gets brittle after printing and breaks at the top of my extruder, and it smells almost as bad as ABS. I've heard others say all kinds of good things about eSun so I'm guessing I may have just got a bad roll. I'd say watch out for seller "TOPG" on amazon...except when I ordered it said it was sold by "firesale merchant" and still shows that on the product page with the "You ordered this" message - but when I go into my orders and look at the transaction it says it was sold by "TOPG" so no clue what Amazon is pulling right now. My other two orders of Hatchbox both said "Firesale" and show as "firesale" in my orders.)

Oh well, fired up repetier host and connected to the server - gave a manual command to heat the extruder...then ran it backwards to spit out the broken bit. Seemed fine. Re-loaded the filament, air extruded some to make sure nothing was clogged and all seemed well. Opened rep-server in my browser and hit go on the part I wanted to print. Bed started heating and all seemed well so went to put my daughter to bed.

Came back in a few minutes later...and the printer was just sitting there with the LCD showing all solid white boxes and the C.H.I.P I run rep-server on had apparently powered itself down (which it does if I try to power the printer over it for more than a minute with the printers power supply off.

Hmmm.....

Reset everything, and now CHIP gives a USB error. Tried plugging the printer into my desktop...and windows says there's a problem with the device. Rebooted everything again.

Things are getting odder. The LCD is back and recognizes the SD card...but when I go to select a file to print it say "no card", go back to the main screen and it says "SD Inserted" but go to select a file and still "no card". Tried plugging in the USB again and connecting straight from rep-host...and as soon as it connects rep-host crashes. Hmmmm.....

Turn on the printer with no USB and no lights on the RAMPS and the LCD is dead. Seems like the Arduino is only getting power over USB suddenly.

Of course I just happened to loan my good volt meter to a co-worker for the night. My backup meter is only 1v resolution...kind of a pain to use.

Well, it's up and going but only if I plug the USB into my desktop (the C.H.I.P can't provide enough power over it's port) and print from SD since actually connecting to the USB crashes everything.

So I'm thinking my arduino fried it's 5v regulator. Can't really confirm without my volt meter...but that's my educated guess right now.

Follow-up - I pulled an Arduino Mega off another project, flashed it and swapped it in. All is back to normal. So it sure seems like like the 5v rail got messed up on the original arduino. Co-worker just gave me back my meter so tonight I'll do some further postmortem on the original arduino.


I will say I'm really happy with rep-server on the C.H.I.P for the most part. Liking it a lot better than OctoPrint even though I liked the openness and hackability of OP better. RS just seems more fully featured and better behaved. I do miss the way OP visualizes retractions though.

And while the C.H.I.P. works it's not ideal. It's just powered off a USB cable and a 700ma phone charger, and isn't really designed to power things off it's USB. So it needs a powered hub to work well. If I shut down the printer power supply before shutting down the CHIP then after a few minutes the CHIP will crash because of the power demands of the Arduino/Ramps/LCD setup. So I have to shut down the CHIP first then turn off the printer which means I can't do automated shutdown But for $9 I'm not even close to complaining!

Hey, Glad you figured out your issue, sucks on the Mega but at least you figured out what it is. I have a similar setup with repetier-server except I'm running it on a Pi. It has enough juice to power the arduino and the LCD though obviously nothing else works and if the printer is not powered on it stays in a freaking out mode claiming a temp error. So far I'm loving repetier-server. I set up apache on my Pi and setup password authentication, it then has a link to repetier-server where I also setup a user/password. Lastly i forwarded both the port for apache 80 and for repetier-server to the outside. Now I own my own domain and point a subdomain to my home. So if I go from the web I can go to my web server [home.mydomain.com] and the click the link to repetier-server. (Yes I could go to repetier-server directly or have forwarded 4433 to 80 directly but I have other stuff on my apache instance.) It's great because I can fully monitor my printer from outside and see what's going on via webcam.

I would say this though, be careful with Repetier-Server. The DB they use is very finicky if shut down improperly. I pulled the power on the wrong thing once (the pi instead of the printer) and the DB got corrupted. A re-install didn't fix. I ended up having to flash a new OS and re-install everything. Now that it's back up and running on my todo list I have to make a backup of the SD card to have an easy way to fix if it happens again.

printer wont connect to rep host.

i keep getting this log message:

No start signal detected-forcing start

Any help would be appreciated. i have searched here but unable to find anything helpful. only thing that might be relevant is maybe it is a clone ftdi chip and computer wont recognize?

Thanks

Quote
Ares2189
printer wont connect to rep host.

i keep getting this log message:

No start signal detected-forcing start

Any help would be appreciated. i have searched here but unable to find anything helpful. only thing that might be relevant is maybe it is a clone ftdi chip and computer wont recognize?

Thanks

Based on what I see when I Google that, it looks like the baud rate is wrong? Can you look at the serial monitor window? Are you getting anything? (I'm not familiar with it, just following here [forums.reprap.org])

When you mentioned FTDI, I was reminded of this article though I haven't seen it happen personally (YET!)

[www.securingindustry.com]

baud rate is at 250000. is that correct? yes that article is what came up when i searched these forums. im trying a different comp now will see if it works

Quote
Ares2189
printer wont connect to rep host.

i keep getting this log message:

No start signal detected-forcing start

Any help would be appreciated. i have searched here but unable to find anything helpful. only thing that might be relevant is maybe it is a clone ftdi chip and computer wont recognize?

Thanks

Where you able to upload the firmware via the arduino software. If so then you have the right drivers and it's probably nothing to do with the chip.... If not then you're skipping steps.

Yes i followed all the steps no issues downloading the Marlin ramps and the abs, pla zip files. uploaded the marlin ramps to arduino.

I did the whole process over and noticed a couple differences.

1. my com port says : com4 (arduino/genuino mega or mega 2560)

2. step 5 says to choose Arduino mega 2560 or mega adk. My board list has it the same as my com port says. and on a different choice arduino mega adk. there not on the same option.

I went for "Arduino/Genuino Mega or Mega 2560". Running Arduino version 1.6.7. I've been printing all week with that choice. Just a noob's $.02

One thing that balled me up was the Repetier Server was running and I needed to stop the server from the within the "server" tab in Repetier-Host's main window.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/25/2016 07:59PM by flatlander.

Stupid question:

Sometimes my printer just pauses printing for a few seconds and continues ~10-20 seconds later. Meanwhile the nozzle heats up the already printed layer and a blob forms. (Doesn't look so nice). This happens maybe twice a day. Any ideas what is causing this? Is the PCB heating up too much?

Quote
MuckYu
Stupid question:

Sometimes my printer just pauses printing for a few seconds and continues ~10-20 seconds later. Meanwhile the nozzle heats up the already printed layer and a blob forms. (Doesn't look so nice). This happens maybe twice a day. Any ideas what is causing this? Is the PCB heating up too much?

Possibly communication errors if you are printing via usb.

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Ah okay - thanks for the info! Guess I will have to keep it the old way with an SD card then.

Quote
MuckYu
Ah okay - thanks for the info! Guess I will have to keep it the old way with an SD card then.

Or try a different USB cable. Also look at buffer size settings.

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marc2912

Quote
MuckYu
Ah okay - thanks for the info! Guess I will have to keep it the old way with an SD card then.

Or try a different USB cable. Also look at buffer size settings.

Good ideas. I've had trouble using usb 2.0 devices in usb 3.0 ports. For that reason, my printer is using a usb 2.0 port.

Im planning on installing auto level with this proximity switch, below I have made a list of everything I need to do, anything else?

1. Upgrade to therippa's firmware
2. Move X endstop to left and change the setting's from max to min in rep host
3. Change the code in configuration.h that the wiki says to
4. Wire it up to the ramps, no idea how to... Help?

Also since im moving the x endstop to left do I need to change anything in the firmware?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/26/2016 03:01PM by UltiFix.

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Quote
UltiFix
Im planning on installing auto level with this proximity switch, below I have made a list of everything I need to do, anything else?

1. Upgrade to therippa's firmware
2. Move X endstop to left and change the setting's from max to min in rep host
3. Change the code in configuration.h that the wiki says to
4. Wire it up to the ramps, no idea how to... Help?

Also since im moving the x endstop to left do I need to change anything in the firmware?

You should really read up on the firmware settings and what they di instead of just blindly changing values because people say to in such and such post. I'm not saying become a programmer, I'm just saying learn the settings of that program. As far as how to wire a proximity switch there are plenty of tutorials out there.

I upgraded to a proximity sensor this past week to use auto bed leveling. I upgraded all the firmware, got it to read and thought I would be in good shape. I am now having 2 problems.
1) After each print, I keep having to adjust the z offset in slic3r because the head is either too low or too high whereas the previous print was spot on. Is there something I can change in either repetier or Marlin to fix this issue?
2) I set the firmware to probe 3 and 9 points (separate attempts) and am getting less than 1mm difference between Zmin and Zmax according to the probe spots. My nozzle keeps moving a considerable distance from the bed. I can see the motors physically moving up and down, but it seems like they are not moving fast enough. Can I adjust Z motor speed to attempt to keep up with the bed height change? I had currently moved Zhome feedrate from the original 2 down to 1 to see if I could increase bed probing accuracy.

Upgrades: Z motor standoffs, LJ18A3-8-Z/AX Inductive sensor.
Firmware: therippa's Marlin code altered to my printer and ABL.
Bed: 100C
Hotend: Stock

Quote
Mach

Quote
ihaveworms
What kind of extrusion multiplier are you all using? I am using 0.7 right now that seems really low, almost like I am doing something wrong.

Did you calibrate your extruders steps/mm?

Where in the configuration do you set steps per millimeter?

Quote
ihaveworms

Quote
Mach

Quote
ihaveworms
What kind of extrusion multiplier are you all using? I am using 0.7 right now that seems really low, almost like I am doing something wrong.

Did you calibrate your extruders steps/mm?

Where in the configuration do you set steps per millimeter?

"#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT". The parameters are X, Y, Z, E from left to right.

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